Skimp or Spend? A buying guide for men’s suits, blazers, jeans, watches, and more

What pieces in a guy’s wardrobe can you go cheap on without getting burned? Which items are you better off saving up for? Here’s a breakdown of what to (maybe) skimp on, and what you’re better off spending big for. As always season to taste, environment, experience, etc. These are more guidelines than actual rules. What works for someone who wears a suit and tie 5 days a week won’t work for someone who wears a suit and tie twice (or less) per year. Each can have a great sense of style, and the tools (clothes) used for each will be different.

Suits: Neither Skimp nor Spend big (stick to the middle ground)

Spier & Mackay’s Half Canvas Slim or Contemporary Fit Core Line Suits – $398 just your 1st suit ships/returns for free, stock on basics like charcoal and navy can sometimes sell out
Suitsupply Half Canvas “Perennial” line Suits – $499 ships/returns for free, consistent stock
Banana Republic Italian Wool Signature Suits – $420 *when 30% off… but gotta wait for a sale

Wait, NEITHER skimp nor spend? Nothing like breaking the rules right from the start. Should you buy a $150 suit? No. Construction and fabric at that level is garbage, therefor it’ll look and feel like crap. Should you spend a ton and get a fancy $1000+ suit? For most of us, no way. Why? Because a well fitting $500 suit will look better than an ill fitting suit which cost thousands of dollars.

Know which brands provide the best bang for the buck, know which colors to buy first, and know what to ask your tailor to do to your suit(s) upon arrival. Put it all together and the end result is the mid-range being the right call for most.

Shoes: Spend on Dress Shoes and Boots. Skimp on the rest.

Allen Edmonds Fifth Avenue Cap-toe Oxfords – $349 ($425)
Nike Killshot Sneakers – $90 (sometimes on sale)
J. Crew Ludlow Goodyear Welted Cap Toe Oxfords – $248
Allen Edmonds Park Avenue Leather Sole Oxfords – $425 (review here)
Grant Stone Diesel Boot in Crimson Chromexcel – $395
Nike Air Force 1 – $110

Unless you’re a sneaker head, keep your cash for dress shoes and boots, with the exception being athletic sneakers you’re doing hard workouts in (your feet will thank you). If you’re putting together a footwear arsenal from scratch, spend on well made, recraftable shoes such as those from Allen Edmonds, and learn how to take care of them. Buy during big sales (Anniversary, Rediscover America, etc) and you’ll get a lot for your money. When you want (or need) to look your best, nice shoes can matter. In regards to boots, Follow Lt. Dan’s advice from Forest Gump: Take care of your feet. That means good boots for work and hiking. If they’re just for looking good, but they’re inspired by heritage work or hiking boots, you still might want to spend. Because cheap boots can often look and feel really cheap.

Outerwear: SPEND on Wool, Warmth, & Waterproof. Skimp on the rest.

Look to invest when it comes to a wool topcoat or peacoat. Cheap options can look and more importantly feel cheap. And if you live somewhere with chilly autumns and cold winters, then it’s something you may be wearing literally every single day. So investing will pay off. If you have an Army/Navy surplus store nearby you may be able to get a real surplus navy wool peacoat for a song. That’s worth looking for. Bottom line: Don’t go cheap if you live somewhere super cold and need to stay warm, and/or if you live somewhere super wet, and need to stay dry. And we’re talking about style here. If you’re some ice-climber whose life depends on their technical outerwear, then by all means, bet the farm on your gear. Better than buying the farm from hypothermia.

Blazers/Sportcoats: Spend. But try to get them on sale.

Gone are the days of dirt cheap sportcoats often made from cotton or wool blends. Now if it’s under $100? It’s probably fully synthetic and cut in a wonky shape (read: chopped tail/long arms). So while the benefits of wearing sportcoats and blazers often are many… be prepared to spend a few bucks. Don’t worry, we’ll keep you updated on the sales front. Also, this doesn’t mean you need a closet full of sport jackets of every color and pattern. A solid navy blazer and a versatile gray sportcoat will get you exceptionally far.

Chinos: Skimp

For most of us there’s just not a ton of difference between a $35 pair of cotton/spandex chinos, and a $99 pair of cotton/spandex chinos. Likely exceptions would be if you’re hard to fit and have a favorite spendy brand, or *if you’re hooked on lululemon’s performance fabric and gusset equipped ABC trousers and 5-pockets.

Jeans: Spend on stretch. Skimp on regular.

Unless you’re seriously into the selvedge and/or raw denim thing, there are just way too many good, affordable options when it comes to decently made, timeless jeans in all cotton or cotton with a hint of stretch. If you’re after a pair of jeans that are made to be super comfortable, stretch like crazy, and move with you as lift your left leg up against a brick wall for a silly style blog photo… then consider spending on, say, BR’s slim traveler jeans. They’re spendy at full ticket, but can occasionally go on sale. And they truly are exceptional when it comes to comfort.

Polos: Skimp

Polos are another item in menswear with a rich bounty of affordable, decently-constructed, well-fitting options. Yes, there are a lot of “bad” polos out there. But there are also plenty of good ones for around $20 – $45. Look for trim cuts, good feeling fabrics, breathability, and collars that don’t curl. If you do want to spend, look for polos with significant points of differentiation like merino or high quality performance fabric, button down collars for wearing with blazers, etc.

Casual Shirts: Skimp

Yes, there are some super nice casual shirts out there. But unless you’re Mr. Shirt who just has to have all the shirts, stick to inexpensive OCBDs (oxford cloth button downs) and patterned poplins. Because if you REALLY need to be wearing a nice shirt? Wear a dress shirt. Speaking of dress shirts…

Dress Shirts: Middle-ground. But spend on a nice white shirt if you’d like.

There are a lot of good dress shirts in the $40 – $80 price range. If you want to splurge on a reallllly nice dress shirt, consider spending that cash on a classic, crisp white dress shirt. Because you’ll use it by far the most.

Whatever you do, don’t go super cheap, and don’t accumulate patterns and colors you’ll rarely wear. Hitting the bargain bin for weird colors & patterns will have you looking like a 1970s news anchor. And chances are they’ll be made from awful feeling, scratchy material. A dress shirt is a foundational piece that supports the rest of your outfit (suit, sportcoat, sweater/trousers/etc.) Stick with white or light blue and make sure it fits and feels great.

Sweaters: Make ’em Merino, which is the middle ground.

Don’t go with cheap, stuffy cotton. Very few of us feel the desire to shell out for cashmere. There is a perfect middle ground material that makes amazing, breathable, temperature regulating sweaters: merino wool. Go with those. Usually a merino v-neck or crewneck will land somewhere in the $40 – $70 range, depending on the brand, time of year, and sales. If you do want to spend some serious money, consider a big “house sweater” shawl collar cardigan. They’re comfortable, versatile, and while often expensive, something you’ll wear a ton and also enjoy.

Watches: Skimp first. Spend later IF you want. Just don’t expect anyone to care.

We all rent before we buy (if we get to buy at all anymore). And weirdly that applies for watches. We all spend time and money figuring out what works for us. What diameter do you prefer… 38mm? 40mm? 42mm? What about style? Dive watch? Vintage? Chronograph? Something dead simple? It might be worth skimping a bit while you figure that out. But if you know, like REALLY know what you want, then finding one watch that wears well with everything in your wardrobe could be worth a serious splurge. It might turn out to be an heirloom or even increase in value over time. But don’t count on it. Also be warned that wearing an expensive, conspicuous watch can make you a target for robbery. So yeah. There’s that too.

Ties: Skimp

TheTieBar Grenalux Navy Tie – $24
TheTieBar Pointed Tip Knit Ties – $24
Kent Wang Navy Grenadine Ties – $75 (in case you want a REALLY nice tie)

The Tie Bar essentially eliminated the world of high-priced ties. Yes they deliver for the (super affordable!) price tag. But do know that you can actually feel the difference (in your hands, as well how easy it ties/drapes) between a cheap tie and a really nice tie. Still though. Skimp here, unless your job requires super sharp suit and tie combos. Maybe spend on one wheelhouse, really nice tie, like a navy grenadine, and then cheap out on the rest. Thrift stores can also be a great place to source extremely well made, vintage ties.

Sunglasses: Skimp

Carfia Polarized Men’s Sunglasses – $29
WMP Sunglasses – $39
Walden Woods Sunglasses – $75 ($125)

We’re not talking about gas-station junk shades here. We ARE talking about saving a ton of money on well made sunglasses by shopping smart. The eyewear industry is absurd. Yet retailers like Nordstrom Rack offer designer shades at deep discount if you’re patient, and there are some decent bargain brands out there that look and feel surprisingly good.

Belts: Skimp smartly. Spend if you’d like.

Belts are like shoes. The quality of the leather can really matter. And while there are some cheap belts out there that do deliver at a very reasonable price (the GAP belt comes to mind)… you don’t want something that looks like plastic or flakes and falls to pieces with use.

Socks and Underwear: SPEND

Yes really. Spend. Spend on the boring stuff. The stuff you used to HATE getting as gifts around the holidays or for your birthday. But once you realize how amazing wicking, breathing merino wool or performance fabric underwear and socks are, you’ll never go back to cheap cotton stuff. A house is only as good as its foundation. So what’s the point of being well dressed if your underwear and socks are anything less than absurdly comfortable?

Grooming: Skimp

For under $40 (or much less) there are plenty creams, serums, and other assorted goops that can last a good while. Also, if you want your skin (and hair) to look healthier without the goo? Get more sleep. Drink more water. Eat smart. Moisturize. Use sunscreen. That’s really about all you need to do. The grooming industry is far to often filled with promises of quick and easy fixes which prey upon our insecurities.

Haircuts: Spend, on schedule

Your barber is like your tailor. Find one you communicate well with, develop a relationship, and appreciate their work. Tip well and get on a consistent schedule. See them every 3-4 weeks for a trim. Why? Because getting a a haircut every 6 weeks (or more) will leave you with a haircut that looks too short for two weeks, then just right for two weeks, then too long for the last two weeks. Get a trim every few weeks and your hair’s length will always look just right. If you shave your head (by necessity or choice), invest in good equipment and spend 10 minutes twice a week to keep it tight.

Fitness & Wellness: Whatever it takes.

“Protect the asset.” The asset is you. You’re more than a clothes rack. It doesn’t matter if all you need is a notebook for journaling and a cheap yoga mat, or you’ve discovered that you truly are motivated by a spendy piece of workout equipment and a by-the-hour personal trainer. Find out what works for you (and of course what works within your budget,) and then invest the time. That’s what matters. The time.

Want more resources like this? Head here for our playbook (a collection of what we hope is our best advice), and here for the Dappered Essentials shop.