Some questions are better answered publicly since others might be asking the same thing, or, one of you has the perfect answer. If you’ve got a style tip, question, or anything else you’d like to pass along, you can send those in here. If you’d rather your question not be featured in a future mailbag, just go ahead and say so in your email. Feel free to hit the comments with other options for answers to this most recent batch of questions. Top Photo Credit: Tracy O.
Q: How to dress down black dress shoes
I’ve attached a pic of this pair of black dress shoes that I like a lot… but I rarely wear them. I want to use them more often by wearing them in a more casual way. I was thinking about something like wearing grey jeans or grey chinos and a black polo shirt and the dress shoes sockless to “downplay” them because I think they might be too dressy for the outfit. Is this a good idea? – Federico
Absolutely. Those are a derby/blucher style… meaning: they have “open” lacing. Meaning: The two flaps that the laces run through aren’t stitched over and held down like a more dressy “oxford”. More here in case I’m being confusing. Derbys are much easier to dress down than oxfords and most look just fine with dark denim. But the idea of wearing these with grey chinos or grey jeans is also plenty fine. It should look real sharp. Mean even. Something that Daniel Craig’s James Bond might wear. Just make sure the pants are one saturated color (not faded/whiskered/etc…) and the polo is a nice, smooth fabric (such as Banana Republic’s Luxe Touch). And no need to shy from socks if you don’t want to. A pair of medium or lighter grey socks that match the pants will help elongate your legs.
Q. What about Birkenstocks?
I’m just curious what you think about Birkenstocks. Are they still just for free-spirited, tree-loving hippies or are they more acceptable in mainstream mens fashion these days? – Scott.
Guys & sandals, ANY kind of sandal (flip flop, Teva, or otherwise) elicit some pretty strong responses from the menswear community. Mostly in a negative sense. The thing about us guys is… we don’t take care of our feet (or hands) as well as the ladies do. So if you’re going to be showing toes, your feet better be in tip top shape. No busted, overgrown/jagged, or flat out missing toenails. But as far as the Birkenstocks themselves go, they’re pretty well made. And pretty darn expensive. You could get many a pair of canvas sneakers for that. And you wouldn’t have to worry about sunscreening your feet & toes (ever gotten a sunburn on your feet so bad it blistered? Try taking showers with that. Done it. Not fun). That, and sneakers are a hell of a lot easier to run in if you ever had to use the ol’ Nike Defense.
Q: The Perfect Navy Blazer?
Where would you recommend to look for the perfect navy blazer? You know, the timeless classy, never-go-out-of-style, wear anytime one? So many are seasonal, or overly trendy, (narrow or ridiculously wide lapels, chopped, etc.) it’s hard to find the “perfect” one. Thoughts? – Levi G.
Yikes. Well, “perfect” is a relative term. Many (but not all) have defined their own personal “perfect” navy blazer as the Ludlow J. Crew discontinued last season… but I’m guessing Levi wouldn’t favor those lapels. Here’s a few other options that may or may not make the cut:
- Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald Fit – $373.50 w/ FF25… (top left) Even on sale. Ow.
- Bonobos “Alma Matter” Blazer – $208 ($448)… (top right) but might be final sale? Also, has some texture.
- Nordstrom Wool Blazer – $295… but a “classic” fit with a high looking button stance
- Joseph Abboud Soft Construction Sportcoat – $199
… but barely structured. More shirt than blazer, which for some, is kinda incredibly awesome. Made in the USA.
Q: Jeans for guys with larger, but not enormous upper legs.
I’m an avid trail runner, and last July I partially tore my Achilles and was unable to run until last month. My doctor told me to focus my workouts on my legs to gain strength, and thus, take pressure off of my achilles tendon. Now I can’t fit into my go-to Levi’s 514s anymore. They’re fine in the waist, but the upper leg area is basically painted on. I’m 5’ 10” and depending on what time of year it is due to my running / training schedule I can fluctuate anywhere from 185-195 lbs. I’m a 32 waist / 31 inseam / 42 chest. I tried to go up to a 33″ in the waist, but those are just too big
Can you recommend a jean that’s not a loose fit, but has more room in the upper legs? – Chad
I recently went through a similar situation… minus the devastating injury part. I hired a good pal who’s a trainer because I wanted to add more strength/explosion in my legs. She got me hooked on Vega’s Chocolate Sport Protein
Q: Affordable Leather Key Cases… without branding
Do you know of any (preferably affordable) leather key cases? I’d like to avoid some of the metal, card-style key carriers, and go with a more traditional one. Also, I hate logos. – Johnny
How’s $26 for a handmade in Vermont, vintage-design inspired key case sound? They also happen to be made by Dappered Threads forum user MattFace. Check out how these things came to be over here, as well as see pics of Matt at work on these cases via flickr. Sold through his etsy shop. Shipping is $3.
Q: Why do dress shirts come with all those pins & other crap in them?
This has always bugged me. Why do most dress shirts come with a dozen pins, seven pieces of plastic, cardboard, and tissue paper stuck to them? – Christopher
Maybe it’s to get the less-confident shoppers to feel guilty about dissecting some stupid dress shirt in a department store dressing room, while their Wife/Mom/Girlfriend/All three (SOMEBODY CALL MAURY) stand waiting for the poor dude to come out and “SHOW US HOW IT LOOKS I WANNA SEE”… so, to end the torture, they just duck out of there, shirt in tow, so they can end this hell on earth that is shopping at the mall on a perfectly good Saturday afternoon without ever really ever trying the damn thing on. Either that, or it’s for on-the-shelf presentation. Who knows.
Got a question or a style tip? Send them to joe@dappered.com. Additional answers to the above questions can go in the comments.
@Chad, may want to check out the recently-kickstarted Barbell Jeans. A bit spendy at $109 pledge, but it does sound like what you’re looking for.
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/barbellapparel/barbell-denim-functional-denim-has-arrived
Would love to know the brand of those black derby’s up top if the person who sent it in or you yourself know, Joe!
I got one of those key cases and love it. Just watch out for the snap on it – you will want to glue it on as they come part pretty easily. And make sure you use a screwdriver to tighten once you add the keys.
I know people have strong opinions on sandals, but, living in a big city, the only question I ask my friends who insist on wearing them everywhere during the summer is if they realize the puddle they just stepped in likely wasn’t just rain water.
came to post the same thing. They are going to be pricey, but the material seems to be extra durable. Plus, if you’re just a weekender and/or winter jeans wearer, a pair or two should last for a while.
Along with the Barbell jeans, maybe check out the MADE by Cam Newton jeans. They have just enough stretch material in them to give them some play in the upper trunk area.
Tod, sorry to hear about your snap. I have gone through a couple of different generations in hardware. The first batch snaps were not quite up to the thickness in some of the thicker horsehide pieces. I now use slightly heavier snaps. If yours falls off again, send it back and I’ll put one of the new snaps on it.
Levi’s 508s are a great fit for guys who are larger in the legs and want a tapered leg. They can just be a bit hit or miss in terms of the sizing.
I like Levis 501, Gap straight, and Gustin Straight. I feel like Levis 505 are slightly slimmer than 501s, and I prefer the STF fit.
I wish I would have known about Matt’s key case before I spent nearly twice as much on one from Phigvel Makers and Co. with their name branded in gold on the side of it.
Nothing a dot of superglue didn’t fix so no hassles Matt. It is really great, saved lots of pants pockets and is even a bit of a conversation starter when people see me pull out my keys. It’s the details that count and this was a well spent upgrade.
$500,000 compared to a $15,000 goal? This is a very risky proposition — I’d be shocked if they could meet production demands.
I’d also be concerned about the possibility of a stretch denim. They don’t give us any information about what allows their denim to flex, and having recently bought a pair of Levi’s 513s in a stretch that’s only 78% cotton — and they’re really no good at all
— I’d strongly prefer to know the content of the fabric on their jeans.
This. Wish they made more pants that fit like the 508.
Bro. Brah. BRAH! If you even LOOK at anything other than Optimum Whey your gainz are literally gonna peace-out faster than me from the gym on leg day. Seriously, bro, if you cheat on Optimum, you better start praying to Brodin for forgiveness right now. While you’ve got him on the line, ask him to bring back Jack3d original formula.
Birkenstocks, bolo ties, and bucket hats are NOT coming back into style. No idea why style bloggers keep bringing these items up. They were horrible when they were initially ‘in style’ and they’re horrible now. I don’t care who you are, what your style is, or how confident you are wearing the item, you’re going to look ridiculous.
The JCP jeans were an awesome solution for those of us with hockey player / skier / cyclist legs not looking for the JNCO jeans look. I ordered them almost as a joke because I was so frustrated with finding something, anything that fit properly, and I figured I could risk $14 on an experiment. They became my favorite jeans over a bunch of $100+ crap. Now if they would only start making them again…
Another way to dress down those shoes may be to swap out the shoelaces. Doesn’t have to be for a crazy colour, but even a grey pair of shoelaces will make them look much more casual.
I like that key case a lot, but it doesn’t look Ford Focus friendly.
If you go for Bonobos Blazers, why not the Bradford? https://www.bonobos.com/blazers-sportcoats-for-men-wool-navy-the-bradford
Odd. I found the JCP denim *(if we’re talking the same ones that Joe mentioned a few times before) to be near-514-identical on me. They were too tight/restricting for my tastes in jeans; but of course, as always, to each -> own.
I like 501s, and 505s, (prefer 501s for the button-flyness) – and my current fave pair of dark denim is the slim-straight selvedge J.Crew offering (again, the button-fly wins for me). Those can be pricey though, even with a discount, so know that going in. They still get the most wears from any jeans I’ve had in quite some time. So worth the cost to me (I think I got them at maybe 30% off?).
I should add that I do NOT have thunder thighs at all – in fact sometimes I feel my calves’ circumfrence are approaching my those of my thighs. I’m working on that, but yeah – I just like a somewhat looser fit – one that doesn’t accentuate my slim(mer) legs too much. I guess I just prefer a more “straight” look. Not baggy or loose – not skinny and not TOO slim – the “slim/straight” thing works for me in most cases.
Why’s that? Are you just worried about your FOB? Or is there something more there with the Focus?
https://www.flickr.com/photos/happytriggerfinger/10586781816/in/set-72157637145917706
I found the thighs in the JCP (which I believe is the same as what Joe mentioned, but they seemed to changes the descriptions around a bunch) to have just enough additional room where they were perfect. It’s also possible that JCP’s quality control wasn’t that good, and I got a “larger” pair. That wouldn’t shock me, and they stopped making them before I was able to buy any more. .
Ah, didn’t see that picture. Clever.
I agree with you 100%. This is not an endorsement. But it’s not style bloggers initiating the resurgence. It’s designers and labels. Birkenstock did a collaboration with J. Crew and were also featured in multiple NY Fashion Week runway shows. Again, not an endorsement, but this is is how “fashion” works, and why style is so much more important.
For more:
http://www.esquire.com/blogs/mens-fashion/birkenstocks-nyfw-0913
Gotcha. Yeah, I thought I hit the goldmine when they were $11 (or was it $7) on clearance. Was saddened that I had to return them.
Glad to hear they work for you though.
I also forgot to mention that as part of my preference for 505/501 vs 514 (and thus *my* personal take on those JCP jeans), a real biggie is the rise differences. I seem to prefer a higher rise these days. Getting old, I guess. LOL
But seriously, Optimum Gold Standard is the best, especially the all-natural stuff. I use the OGS 100% Natural vanilla — it’s pretty much perfect for protein shakes with frozen berries. And it’s no more expensive than the regular stuff, and with no artificial sweeteners!
Yeah, seems like it could still work. Dunno. I’ve never tried Matt’s goods (uhm… yeah)… but I can vouch for him as one stand-up dude from my experience chatting things up with him in the Threads (forums) here.
I might be trying one of these in the future. If I do, I’ll likely be going his way.
Looks like a great stocking stuffer.
Agreed. I stay away from most denim if it’s less than 98 percent cotton. The 2 percent elastine is more than enough for flexibility without making me feel like I’m wearing jeggings.
That key case is awesome. Ordered from Matt but had to return it – the diameter of the posts was too thick for my keys.
Here’s my solution. Not as stylish as the leather key holder but just as slick.
I bought a blue blazer from Lands End that was recommended in the comments a few months back and I have to say it is fantastic. The fit is amazing, and the construction is great. I know they are a bit low on sizes but I really recommend this thing. http://www.landsend.com/products/mens-tailored-fit-wool-travelers-blazer/id_248730
Looks like my last comment may not have posted…if you want to get that J. Crew Ludlow (my friend’s is maybe the best navy blazer I’ve ever seen in person) you can hit up eBay and then get it tailored. Obvious comment, but I didn’t want Levi G. thinking he’s missed out for all of time.
Not to put words in Joe’s mouth, but the Alma Mater looks like it comes in more sizes (including longs), has updated-but-traditional brass buttons, and comes in a nice hopsack wool (which has a rougher texture and less sheen). The Bradford is a 160s wool (likely very fine texture and more sheen) with very dark brown–possibly black–buttons. Essentially, the Alma Mater is an updated ‘classic’ navy blazer while the Bradford is less so.
Just answering the dude’s question. I don’t wear sandals myself, and make the case for sneakers instead in the post, but I’d wear Birkenstocks a million times before a bolo tie. I don’t think they look ridiculous. They just look like sandals to me. Always have (’cause… dey be sandals)
Philip River’s disagrees.
http://msn.foxsports.com/nfl/laces-out/san-diego-western-store-can-t-keep-up-with-bolo-tie-demand-011014
Wish they made it in a slim/skinny fit. :/
Joe, any chance you can do a review of this Wallin & Bros. blazer at Nordstrom?
http://shop.nordstrom.com/s/wallin-bros-trim-fit-wool-blazer/3517368
Think it’s an in-house brand, priced the same as the one you highlighted, but with a trimmer fit. Looks too short to be “classic”, but I wonder if you can get around that by sizing up.
Re: jeans and other pants for big legs. My waist fits into size 31 or 32 pants but my butt and thighs don’t so I go for bigger sized waists than I need and have a tailor bring the waist in for $10-15. My current 514 jeans started with a 36 waist.
Let’s also not forget that Birkenstock makes a bunch of different versions, too. Some of them look like normal flip flops or sandals.
Okay, dumb question time, but how do you find these blazers, other clothes at Bonobos that are on awesome and on sale? How am I missing them?
@chad, I have the same issue with my thighs fitting into jeans. My solution is to buy jeans that are bigger in the waste but fit my thighs, and then have my tailor bring in the waste. I’ve given up finding the perfect off the rack fit these days, and that goes for my shirts and blazers as well.
Really bummed….called the Ninjas at Bonobos and they said the “Alma Matter” Blazer is fused. For some reason I thought it was half canvassed.
It fits fairly slim in my opinion. But, I am athletic and I generally buy “slim fit” clothes. This thing actually fit me better than the JCF Thompson suit jacket I bought recently. I had to get the Thompson brought in at the waist and have the sleeves shortened. I didn’t have to do either of those to the Lands End blazer. I notice on the page it says “tailored fit”. It’s too bad the model didn’t button it for the picture so you could see how it actually fits. Unless you are skin and bones, I think it would probably fit pretty well.
If the dress shirts were hung in stores, it would take more floor space than some of the shops have. Still, I think they don’t need all that stuff.
I love sandals, but think Birkenstocks are heinous and should have joined the piles of lawn darts in some landfill after the 90s. Sandals are like any other piece of clothing, its all about context. The context of the outfit and environment. Don’t try to dress down a suit with a pair, or try to get away with wearing flip flops to a wedding. Now, who looks down a guy for wearing flip flops with shorts and a polo, unless said guy just arrived for a job interview?
I live in Chicago. If it isn’t some f_cked up weather confusion plaguing the residents, it’s humidity. And with humidity my legs are saying “Em, shorts and sandals, puh-wease.” I’m wearing my Birkenstocks with no emotional attachment to hippies. Or give a care to sartorial rules. I have “nice” legs as well as well kept toe nails, so yah.
I bought a pair of Birks on Ebay (the ones with the strap in the back). They are durable to the point that I can’t imagine every wearing out the sole or the leather straps. However, the rubber tread is actually not particularly durable, nor does it provide much traction.
The idea of Birks is that they are supposed to form to your feet–and they aren’t comfortable until they do. Well, they haven’t formed to my feet. They damned uncomfortable some of the time. While I maintain that they are the best-looking men’s sandal (for what it’s worth), I advise you not to take the jump unless you can get ’em cheap. Real cheap.