Dappered

Affordable Men's Style

The Suggestion: Embrace The Plain Brown Lace Up

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The Splurge:  Allen Edmonds Kenilworth – $187.81 – $236.00* ($295)

*Prices just dropped on these and there are plenty of normal sizes that are marked down and will get an extra 20% off.  To get the 20% off price, you’ll need to sign up for Amazon’s shoe store email list over here.  Once you do that, they’ll send you a one time use code for 20% off.  During a test run the code showed up immediately upon signing up.

Allen Edmonds excels at making shoes with class and a little extra style – wingtips, medallions, and the like – but sometimes a little simplicity is called for.  When just starting to upgrade your shoe collection, something like their Strand probably isn’t the best place to start.  Instead, take a look at the simple, versatile Kenilworth.

The Kenilworth after some decent wear.  Holding up extremely well, as expected.

The Kenilworth is made on the 5 last, the same used for many of their other traditional dress shoes, such as the Park Avenue, Fifth Avenue, and Strand, but the Kenilworth is a three eyelet, blucher style shoe.  This, combined with the burnished plain toe and zero perforations, makes for a slightly more casual looking shoe that can still be easily dressed up.  They pair equally well with jeans and a button up and dress slacks and a blazer.  As already stated, they’ve got open lacing like all bluchers, but they’re sharp enough to wear with a suit.

With long, narrow feet I can usually size down a bit when buying shoes.  I have another pair of size 11 Allen Edmonds made on a different last (the Hale, made on the 8 last) that fit like a second skin right out of the box, but the Kenilworth in the same size took a bit of breaking in.  I found that they pinched my toes when new (the fact that I was hoofing it around the city on a day pushing 100F may have been a factor as well).  After a few wears they fit just fine.

Made on the 5 Last, the Kenilworth has that classic dress shoe shape.  Not elongated, but not stumpy.

Pounding the pavement, walking to work in them once or twice a week over a few months, and the Goodyear welted sole is holding up very well, which is only expected coming from Allen Edmonds.  This is highly a recommended shoe for someone looking for something that can smoothly transition from the work week to the weekend.

Thoughts from you guys?  Many of us like a wingtip or a cap toe with brogueing or even a solo medallion.  But has too much attention been paid to those busy, attention getting shoes?  Should subtle be what most men purchase first?

Comments

  1. Excellent choice. I have an identical shoe (plain brown leather, blucher style, leather sole, rubber heel) from BedStu that introduced me to the world of leather shoes, and I agree – it’s the perfect start versus a busier, brighter walnut Strand that’s certainly a fantastic shoe but one that needs to be worn in the proper context. A brown blucher is as dummy-proof as dark denim.

  2. I think this is a great starter shoe and just a great essential shoe to have in the closet. It can serve so many purposes (going out, suit and tie, business casual). I think you have to remember though that plain toe bluchers do require a little more upkeep. There is no broguing or design so the shoes need to stay extra shined and always stored with shoe trees so that creasing doesn’t become overwhelming.

  3. I recently tried on in store the Kenilworth and the Neumok (ended up going with the Neumok as a great casual shoe, with some potential for linen suits as well) and I have to say there can be some fit issues with the Kenilworth. I’ve gotten the Strand on the 5 last as well, but for some reason the Kenilworth didn’t fit the same and had consistent bulging right in front of the ankle on each shoe. Not sure if that just happened to be an off batch my store got, but just wanted to let you all be aware about possible fit issues. Also I second Joe’s comment about sizing down on the 5 last, as I’m .5 size smaller on that last. In general I also like at least a cap toe, but the Kenilworth did have some nice burnishing on the toe, to give it a more distinctive look, so overall the shoe looked great, just weird fit problems.

  4. Another issue that people should know about the Neumok is that in my experience with them, the odd coloring will get transfered to your socks. I have socks to match my lighter colored khakis, and it looks like the bottom parts of them have been dyed red. While this won’t stop me from wearing them (or even buying the blue pair at some point), it’s something worth noting. Probably the only instance of something being wrong in any sense of the word with Allen Edmonds.

  5. I’m wearing the Kenilworth shoes right now as we speak and they’re my first quality shoes I ever bought. Man these things are so comfortable. Highly recommended as a starter shoe. You’re right about pinching the toes but I”m still working them in. My next set will be stands in black. Btw Joe do you sleep? lol

  6. FWIW, the Kenilworth’s seem to run larger than any other shoe on the 5 last (Park Avenue, Strand, etc). Not sure why, but it’s probably related to the blucher style lacing.

  7. Yes! These are way nice, it can be hard to find them in stores I think because manufacturers probably prefer split toe or cap toe as they can use multiple pieces of smaller leather instead of one large piece which means less waste.

  8. Once you’ve made the decision to invest in expensive/high quality shoes, something versatile like this is a great first step. Those shoes can be worn with anything except a black suit. Otherwise you’re good to go.

  9. That happens even with very high end shoes when the leather is saturated with a different dye. Sweat will cause it to leech a bit onto socks or feet. It will taper off after a dozen wears or so depending on how much your feet sweat.

  11. I don’t think I’ve ever heard that a plain-toe derby is more casual than a cap-toe or brogued shoe.

  12. I have a pair of Timberland Earthkeepers that I found new on ebay for around 90 bucks. A simple pair of plain toe oxfords that look nearly identical to this shoe, but with a rubber sole. They nearly as comfortable as sneakers, and hold up extremely well! I’m so surprised I haven’t seen an article on them.

  13. Ah yes. Well, in the last couple of decades, I think there’s been a shift for most in the male population to view more details as more dressed up, while plain and simple as more dressed down. There’s lots of grey area now.

    No one ever says: “Honey! I’m headed out for a walk in the bog! Do you know where my brogues are??” anymore. Sure their styling is based in a casual realm, but that doesn’t always hold true. Yes, most wingtips don’t look quite as clean with a suit (because of all the detail) but plenty of brogues (like the strand) do look more dressed up.

    To some.

    The Kenilworth, as awesome as it is, is really plain. I’d personally feel much more comfortable wearing a pair of these with some jeans and a button up shirt/sweater combo, than say, some slicked up pair with a medallion on the toe.

  14. I do sleep. On occasion (but, on a note, Ben wrote this one. Byline is small and real easy to miss up at the top.)

  15. Good thing I didn’t complain about your choice of shoes on that not quite black-tie wedding post.

    I may have also misinterpreted what you meant by upgrade your shoe collection. I think the Kenilworth is a good foundation and that going brogue (haha) would be best saved for after you have some more ‘formal’ pieces in brown and black. However, we may just not agree on this point.

  16. Couple things: I didn’t choose the shoes for the not quite black-tie wedding, the reader wrote in and said “these are what I have… can they work?”

    I also didn’t write this piece. Our correspondent Ben did. And I think you and I (and Ben) agree on some levels. I believe that there’s some shoes that cross the lines of tradition, and the Kenilworth is one of them for sure. It’s a plain toe, but it’s also a derby/blucher (open lacing for those reading who don’t give a hoot about the terms). Some hardliners will say “Oh you can’t wear THOSE with a suit” because they’re not oxfords, while others will say “those are more dressed up than a brogue.” The key is to see the grey area. And these cover a lot of grey area.

  17. I got the code but I’m getting an error “The promotional code you entered cannot be applied to your purchase” tried with different amazon resellers but no luck. Anyone get this to work?

  20. If one wàs wearing this shoe with jeans as depicted in the photo, what kind of socks would be worn? I’ve received quite an education with all the posts about shoes, but now I need some guidance on hosiery to match.

  21. Are these good for going sockless? Some shoes never seem to break in well enough to go without socks, or are too heavy for a casual summer evening.

  22. People hate on ALDO shoes, but I’ve found some really good cheap casual leather shoes from them. I have a pair of black and brown casual oxfords that look very similar to these, and they only cost ~$70 a pair. They won’t hold up like an AE will, but they look slightly more stylish, and I have no problem making them last with some weekly maintenance.

  23. Note on these, as I just tried them on in-store. They’re only for people with “full” (read: tall) feet. I had a ridiculous amount of room above the top of my foot in my appropriate size. If you don’t have a bulbous foot (his description), then the Clifton or Park Avenue are better bets.