Unsolicited advice is the worst. Unless it’s done anonymously over the internet, w/ the best of intentions… and then maybe it’s okay. Maybe. This one is for the rookies. Up next is advice for those who are well on their way. Then we’ll finish this series with (unsolicited!) advice for the self appointed style experts.
#1. Try a size down
Left: Medium. Fine, but a bit boxy. Right: Small. Fitted, but not tight.
It doesn’t hurt to just try a size down. There’s something about the “you’ll grow into it” clothing strategy that somehow sticks with men as we go from adolescent to adulthood… and sometimes real far into adulthood. We think that anything relatively fitted won’t be “comfortable.” Horse feathers. Clothing that fits isn’t tight. Nor is it loose. It skims the body. It doesn’t cling to it. So try a size down in shirts, pants (inseam and waist), and especially suit jackets, blazers, and sportcoats. You’ll look stronger and leaner. Here’s a few tricks that can help land the right fit.
#2. Never pay full retail, but don’t buy something just because it’s on sale.
Cole Haan’s Lunargrand in “Red Multi Mosaic Camo.”
The fact that they were $248, and are now $129.95, means diddly-poo.
For those of us who aren’t rookies at this dressing-better thing, think of the collective cash we all burned along the way. Only pay full retail if you REALLY want it, and you just can’t wait for a sale. Yet at the same time, don’t buy something you only think you might wear, simply because it’s marked down. This is especially true for items that are close to your size, but not actually your size. If it doesn’t fit, or can’t be tailored to fit, don’t pick it up.
#3. Go Slow
And suddenly, all of Frank’s co-workers at the salvage yard stopped talking to him.
It’s awfully hard to go from cargo shorts + graphic tee guy, to three piece suit guy overnight. It’s a process, and by jumping in head first, you risk looking out of place. There will be disappointments. And there are plenty of reasons as well as opportunities for a guy to dress well. But that doesn’t mean you have to start wearing a tux every night for dinner. Work up to it. Want to start wearing blazers more often? Pick up a cheap, cotton sportcoat, and get it tailored. Wear it out to dinner here and there. You’ll get there.
Don’t spend a lot of money on individual items until you start to figure out what your own personal style is
I’d add: Don’t be afraid to try out a tailor. For me, that was one of the toughest parts.
The caveat would be a navy blazer. There’s room in almost every wardrobe for a navy blazer.
1. De-clutter your closet. If you don’t like or wear something, or don’t plan to wear it (“should I keep this yellow camo pants for halloween next year?”), then don’t keep it in your closet.
2. This is reiterating one of the points in the post: be 100% sure that the shoe you buy fits well. If it’s not a perfect fit, it’s not worth it, even on sale.
3. Despite that this or other websites/forums/magazines say, if you don’t feel comfortable wearing something or being in something, don’t buy it just because it’s in fashion and people talk about it.
4. Down to practice: match your belt to your shoes (for the most part).
An addendum to the Take It Slow idea:
Definitely take it step by step, but be prepared always, or at least often, to get a ribbing from your mates or to answer questions/comments about your fancy shoes or your statement pocket square or your sharply tailored suit, especially when ankle-stacked khakis and billowing polos are the common style of dress. I’m in my 30s and still hear it. I don’t expect it to end. Own your style. And, yes, go slow. Eventually, you’ll be able to try most anything as long as you have the confidence to rock it.
Don’t get distracted by flashy looks. One of the biggest beginner misconceptions about dressing well is that you should attract attention by wearing unusual items. Tyros don’t realize that all the other subtle details in the outfit must be properly executed in order to avoid looking like a clown.
Agree will all these, but I’d add to #3 a note about taking an occasional risk. Don’t assume you won’t be comfortable in a certain piece or look good playing with a certain trend. This was the hardest thing to overcome for me, but once I did, I found a lot of freedom and new styles I really like. Never thought it would happen, but I’ll even rock an air tie from time to time. A year ago, I wouldn’t have considered it.
1. Be frugal, but not cheap. Don’t spend $50 on something that will last 2 years, spend $100 on better quality that will last 5 years, or more.
2. Avoid synthetic materials.
3. Avoid “trend” pieces (skinny ties, slim lapels, color blocks, etc). Just because it’s “in” now doesn’t mean it’s going to be “in” a few years down the road.
Look at the fabric composition of clothes. My 100% cotton dress shirts I got 1-2 years ago still look like I got them last week. Sure they might be a pain to iron but that brings me to point 2, learn to iron properly. If you can afford it, get a steam iron to speed the whole process up.
Undershirts. Use ’em.
Additionally, before trying a tailor, read up on tailoring so that you can communicate and so that you know what to expect in terms of what can (and should) be tailored, how it should come out and how much it usually costs. This will help you have a better experience and hopefully determine whether the tailor is good, decent or crap. Ask around for recommended tailors and take a look online; there’s probably a thread in some forum discussing tailors in your area – if you don’t find one, start a thread asking for recommendations (ask on a variety of forums for max responses).
If you’re just getting your adult clothes, put an emphasis on versatility and timelessness. If you can’t think of at least 2-3 ways to wear something, or outfits it can work with…maybe it’s too much of a splurge or too trendy before you’ve built up your wardrobe.
Instead of “try a size down,” I’d suggest, “try the slim/tailored fit version of your regular size.”
I have to respectfully disagree. I never use undershirts anymore. No issue with those that do, but for me, personally, leaving undershirts behind felt better, and with less overall bulk, looked better (at least, in my eyes)
Sure, that can work. But growing up, I was put in size 42R jackets. I’m a 38R or 39R in most brands. So, a 42 slim just wasn’t gonna work 🙂
Your first point is tricky for beginners. Spending more on an item doesn’t necessarily mean it’ll be worth the investment or even higher quality. Even if it is, there’s no guarantee that the price tag is going to make it fit your body or your style. I effed this up royally when I started – I didn’t truly understand how a blazer should fit and I bought 3 of the BR tailored fits after reading about them an tring them on. I’ve now come to realize that my initial newb fit analysis was very wrong. I knew what to look for on paper, but because of my inexperience in-person, I fell short when it came to trying, analyzing and buying for myself (keep in mind I’d read Dappered for ~ a year and read/participated on the major style forums for about 2 or 3 years). This won’t be the case for all beginners, but I don’t know that I’d necessarily recommend going out and dropping a bunch of cash just because you read about it on here or another style blog/forum. Tricky subject for sure.
Well I’m a sweater. Even with antiperspirant, I’d be going through shirts every year (or less) if I didn’t use undershirts. :-S
Ditto. Even the dude at the tux rental shop for my wedding was trying to put me into a 44R… I’m a 40R. 😛
Agreed – peacocking is a massive pitfall for beginners; I myself dove headfirst into said pit. Seriously, you should see some of the ties in my collection. I keep them around to remind myself that I have the potential to make horrible clothing choices and to seriously consider what I’m buying and why.
I’d suggest that beginners post fit pictures of blazers, suits, and any other bigger ticket items before buying. The internet is ruthless and will tell you if there’s any potential problems that you didn’t notice or didn’t think about. I wish I had posted fit pics before I bought my first blazers.
OOF. Yep. Years ago I got fitted at a rental place for a wedding I was standing up in that was held across the country (y’know, got fitted in current home town, then the tux was going to be at another rental place at the location of the wedding). When I arrived, I was put in a 42… LONG. I’m 5’10”. It was… unfortunate.
Ahhhhh see, that’s tricky. Because: http://dappered.com/2012/10/has-fit-and-style-critique-gone-too-far/
For beginners, posting pics can be counterproductive. Too much tearing down, depending on the forum.
Agreed. Start with the basics and work your way up to peacock status (or just never go there preferably).
You know what pisses me off, Joe? The fact that, at 5’9″ and 165 lbs, a small shirt fits you like a glove.
You’ve said it yourself – you’re about dead average for height and weight. But a small fits better than a medium in many brands.
Anyone else see a problem here?
Good point. I guess it’s up to the individual to decide how to approach their first buys. Personally, I wish that I posted and gotten bullied out of buying $300 of blazers that didn’t fit properly. I think it would have opened my eyes a bit and made me more selective. By the time I actually made my first buy, I’d been around the various forums for a while and I’d seen how brutal they could be. Had I posted, I probably could have weathered the storm and come out the other side better-off. My situation is perhaps a bit unusual though.
Welcome to Fat Land The USA.
going through this now.
“can i try a size smaller?”
“uh… are you sure? people usually…”
“please, can i try a size smaller?”
lesson: avoid being in a wedding, unless you’re the groom.
Go slow and literally make a list of foundation basics that you need. Buying a bunch of mostly solid color pieces might boring, but you can really increase your style IQ by pairing different pieces that you never thought would have gone together. At the same time modify the advice you get for your lifestyle. Our professions, friends, and personal style sense dictate where we feel comfortable on the casual to dressy spectrum.
CertainDri to the rescue; that sh*t works. Sure, it’ll probably give me cancer 30 years down the road, but then again, so will everything else.
I don’t really know what to tell you other than you seem really easy to set off if this is all it takes…
Sort of a tangent, but I’ve been trying to read up if a blazer lining can be removed (or at least made into a half-lined jacket). I jumped on a JCrew oxford cloth suit, and the jacket is fully lined… I couldn’t find any consistency in my online research. Any thoughts on if it can be done / roughly how much?
Yeah… The big “C” kind of freaks me out.
Agreeing with diversification – 165lbs isn’t close to the average American’s weight, so it won’t be the average American’s size.
> Anyone else see a problem here?
Yes. The problem seems to be the definition of “dead average.”
Five-foot-nine is right about average for height, but look at any recent statistics on weight, and you’ll find that the average/median BMI is around 29 for men. That means a few pounds shy of 200 for someone who is 5’9″.
Look at the first picture here for what an average American man actually looks like: http://www.theatlantic.com/health/archive/2013/10/this-is-the-average-mans-body/280194/
I don’t know the answer to that one off-hand, but here’s how I’d suggest handling it:
1) Ask Dappered Threads, Style Forum and Ask Andy About Clothes Forum. Usually I’d avoid Style Forum (lots of dbags acting like jerks) but this strikes me as an unusual question, and SF does have some VERY knowledgeable members.
2) Hunt down the recommended tailors in your area and either bring them the jacket and ask them the question or call them and ask. Don’t let the first one you talk to have your business – you don’t want a tailor who just gives you a “yes” and then sees what they can do. Get a consensus and then choose who you felt most comfortable with (that’s if you have a solid basis for thinking that this can actually be done without ruining the garment).
3) This should probably be #1 – think about if you really need to remove the lining. Would it be better to sell it and just look for an unlined one? Do you really need the lining out? Can it fill a different hole in your wardrobe if you were to purchase a different one that’s unlined?
I appreciate the input. I’ve found a similar thread on style forum, and unfortunately the Asker ended up like the person in your icon. I do need the lining out, as I overheat very easily, and other than the lining, the suit is pretty solid IMO. I guess I’ll have to pursue #2. Thanks again.
The SF crucifixion isn’t unexpected – of the active userbase, probably about ~75% are [swearwords here]. I’d post at the 3 forums (including SF) regardless. Worst case scenario they get nasty and you end up no better off than you started; best case scenario they give you something useful. I’d say it’s worth the risk.
Sound advice. I’d also add…Keep it Simple. You don’t need a vast array of creative options in your closet to dress well. Pick up some staples that you really enjoy, are versatile and fit well. Mix and match as appropriate. As you grow more comfortable with the basics and as finances permit, expand outward, friend!
Indeed. My advice would be to do your research before posting. Read and be familiar with the forums before becoming an active participant. Find one that’s friendly to beginners and offers constructive criticism. Even then, have a thick skin. Understand that the forum members are generally just other people like you and they’re just giving you their opinion. They may have more experience and knowledge in style but that doesn’t make their word gospel. Their style may not be right for you. Listen to the advice, evaluate it and use what you find useful and appropriate. Ignore the rest.
Listen, if you’re not taking my word as gospel, you’re out of the cult. You can reapply next time we do open interviews, but this is going on your record.
I’m with you, here. I invested in fitted Under Armor shirts that disappear under normal clothing. Keeps me cool while looking cool.
I’m 6’0 and 175. Depending on the brand and cut, I flip flop between a small and a medium. I’m a dead ringer for a medium OTR, 40R fit.
Are they v-necks without a logo (or at least a non-contrast logo)? Have an online link?
and avoid that at all costs as well 😛
Do you find yourself having to wash your dress shirts more often without the undershirts? I typically wear one (except in the hottest of months), if only so that I can save my nice shirts the wear and tear of washing after each wear (instead just washing the undershirt, and only throwing in my dress shirts after 2-3 wears). If I go sans undershirt, even without sweating I just won’t feel fresh putting a dress shirt on for a second wear. Just curious how your experiences have gone!
Tommy John is great too. They fit very close to the skin, stretch enough not to be uncomfortable, are thin enough to barely be noticeable, and long enough to stay tucked in. I’m also working on a review for 2(X)IST, and while theirs are a bit thicker, they feel great and hit all the other notes.
Sick shoes.
I didn’t say more money means better quality. I said spend more on better quality. If someone does their homework, they’ll know which brands last longer (hence, the timetable I provided).
What watch is that in the top photo? Pretty sharp.
Good advice in the article and all the comments. As someone who is just getting into style, I got a few questions….do you guys try to look good everywhere you go? Even if its, lets say, a quick trip to the grocery store or target to grab something? Also, are you ever concerned about over-dressing? I hate being that guy who is wearing nice clothes when everyone else is dressed casually.
CertainDri was a game changer for me. Still mostly use undershirts though
— do you guys try to look good everywhere you go?
I think so, but I don’t mean going crazy. I just mean that jeans and a tshirt and work boots can look good if they fit properly and are kept simple. Those are my who cares clothes and they look as good as any suit.
— Also, are you ever concerned about over-dressing?
Not really. If you’re aware of the occasion and dress appropriately, then know you’re doing it right. There’s no shame in being well dressed.
— I hate being that guy who is wearing nice clothes when everyone else is dressed casually.
Get used to it. And “nice clothes” and “dressed casually” are not mutually exclusive.
I know, but that’s what a lot of people hear (especially beginners). It’s a very real pitfall that needs to be addressed. I’ve seen many mistakes made by folks who’ve misinterpreted comments like the one you made and ended up thinking that X brand + high cost = quality. A prime example of when “pay more; invest in quality” goes wrong is when people buy from Allen Edmonds lower quality Dominican-made line assuming that brand + price = quality.
Ditto for me, except I’m 5’10.5″ and pushing 200 pounds. Weight isn’t the best predictor of size.
Point #2) At the end of the day, your clothes represent who you are – hence the formation of “Personal style”. This style should be large enough to encompass every type of event – in part because it serves as a signal to others of what they should expect from you.
(not to bring race into it) but as a black male, I try to avoid overly loose fitting / sagging clothing, because ” networking never stops”, and people tend to shy away from / alter their treatment toward someone they perceive as “hood/gangsta/thugnificent etc.”…so for me personally, this means “no ratty sweatpants at the grocery store”
But as Dappered has noted numerous times, it can also work to your advantage – Not only do you walk taller, straighter, and more purposefully while wearing tailored clothing, airport treatment also changes. If delta has one seat to give to the well-dressed-you, or the college-hoodie-wearing guy beside you, they’ll choose you. Why? Because you represent good money. (Even if you are a broke college student)
Lastly – Fashion takes effort, while style (in my opinion) takes practice. It’s like buying a new fancy camera and expecting to be able to shoot an award winning shot on the first try. The only way you’ll get better is by taking that camera everywhere you go. Likewise, if you want to figure out your personal style, you may find that the grocery store (and every other seemingly mundane outing) is a perfectly good opportunity to test it out. (heck, who can harm you?)
(p.s. – Above all else, try to avoid being pretentious. In my experience there are few things more powerful than a nice guy in good clothing. )
Depends on what you mean by “look good.” Part of looking good is dressing appropriately for the environment. You do not want to be the guy in the three piece suit when everyone else is wearing jeans. But I do dress a heck of a lot better now than I did a few years ago, all the time. You can look nice while not looking out of place – dark jeans, a button down or polo, deck shoes or bucks versus faded and torn dad jeans, an old t-shirt and sneakers. I generally dress that way even in my leisure time, unless I’m doing something dirty or sweaty, so if I’m going to the grocery store I’m going to be reasonably well dressed any way. But if I’m fixing the sink faucet and need to run to the hardware store for a washer, I’ll wash the gunk off my hands but I’m not going to change clothes for the trip.
The ones I own are crew necks with a very subtle tonal logo. Linky:
http://www.underarmour.com/shop/us/en/mens-ua-elite-crew-undershirt/pid1246466-100
Not really. If I’m sweating, a cotton undershirt (some swear by synthetics) just holds the sweat, and in a way, makes me sweat more. If I sweat into a dress shirt, it’ll dry faster since it’s not as close to my skin. As far as wear and tear goes, I do wash my shirts after each use. Cold wash, gentle cycle.
http://dappered.com/2013/01/the-suggestion-seiko-bring-back-the-snzj5/
Sadly, ded.
How disappointing. But thank you for the (unfortunate) update.
Game changer:
http://www.underarmour.com/shop/us/en/mens-ua-tech-short-sleeve-t-shirt/pid1228539-100
Synthetic T, feels like cotton, wicks like synthetic. Anti odor, flatlock seamed off shoulder (for backpackers, thats key). Wearing these let me extend the wash rotations of shirts, saves money since they dry on low in minutes, and plenty of colors for contrast.
I’m a fan of underarmour and wear a lot of it to work out in (feels better than off-brand stuff to me… who knows why).
But, and maybe this is just me, I’d just rather wear a dress shirt, lose the base layer, and wash the shirt.
that’s fairly slim man. I’m 5 8 and very easily and can hit 200 if i’m in a bad eating phase. That being said when I was on a strict diet and working out every day for at least an hour I was 180. If I was 165 people would think I had cancer. Some of us are just built a bit bigger.
Well I’m not exactly fuming angry. After all, we’re talking about clothes, not curing cancer. But if every major retailer blatantly ignored your body type, and it was almost impossible to find clothes that fit off the rack, wouldn’t you be annoyed?
That’s the worst. “This is our modern, slim cut.” Then why do I look like a cardboard box?
Point taken. But I often email retailers asking about the size of the model in their photos, and what size they’re wearing. It’s almost always a medium, and models are usually over 6 feet tall. I don’t care what their weight is… that’s ridiculous.
What size shirts do you wear?
A certain phrase comes to mind…
“Don’t shoot the messenger.”
I wear medium in virtually everything.
no argument here. thats a valid point.
Well, I’m not quite 165 anymore (standby for a measurements update post… wheeeee).
165 though isn’t that slim. I mean, relative to American society it is, but 165 and 5’9 is far from waif.
kind of along the lines of this post, but anybody have recommendations for a decent tailor in the Greenpoint (Brooklyn) area or Manhasset (Long Island)? haven’t been able to find one that i like, but then again I haven’t been looking too hard since scrubs don’t have to be tailored…
The armhole point is a good one. Until I starting reading style blogs I was completely clueless on this issue. However, it is difficult finding jackets with high armholes as most OTR clothes are deliberately made to fit as many builds as possible within each size.
do you guys try to look good everywhere you go?
– No . . . yesterday I had to get some eggs at the store and I just threw on a baseball jacket and cap and jeans. Although, the cap and jacket were vintage-style and American made, and the jeans fit well, so even that outfit was better than what a lot of people today wear to work. But if I’m taking the dog out to pee, I’m not changing into a tux or anything.
Also, are you ever concerned about over-dressing?
– Not really. You’re never really going to be “overdressed” in a nice pair of chinos, a s button down shirt, and a sport coat. Sure, I look better than my co-workers who are in ill-fitting jeans and a t-shirt, and they might comment on it. But am I overdressed? Or is everyone else underdressed?
Don’t obsess over extremely small details that no one will notice besides 1% of people out there. No one is going to notice if your shirt sleeve could be tailored .25 inches.
never buy sutff not on sale, unless it’s something you really like and believe is unsubstitutable, and never goes on sale.
“Cold Wash, gentle cycle”? I always bring my dress shirts to the dry cleaners… I would like to attempt to wash my own shirts. I recently had success with woolight and knitwear. Joe can you do an article on how to wash and not destroy dress shirts?
Great advice, had to remind myself of #2 this weekend
I can’t be the only one loving the look of that watch in the header picture at the top. Any clues as to the brand/model?
Way too late on the thread, but colour! Choose colours that suit your complexion. Develop your own style palette.
The whole trend towards tight really bothers me. Yes, in many case people are swimming in their clothes. But just as often nowadays I see men looking overbearing tight clothes that they call “fitted”. That even includes the guy in the photo above. I think the large size looks better.
The mentality here is simple. Guys are stuck in their teen years, trying to impress other guys with their physiques. No one cared then and no one cares now. All it does is make someone look uncomfortable and usually makes other people feel uncomfortable.
This was confirmed to me last week when I was standing in line at the store. There were several young guys I had seen with the stylishly “fitted” clothes. Then, a smallish guy walked in wearing clothes that were a bit too big for him. The impression I had wasn’t how bad he looked. It was how comfortable and easy he looked. I would have no trouble approaching him on the street to ask directions. The others? They repel, not attract. I don’t want to get near their body outlines to tell you the truth.
Just an alternate view.
Don’t let your clothes wear you.