Suitsupply Blue Line – $399 for Half-Canvassed Suits
Hang on a second. Under four hundred, plenty of basic grey & blue styles, made in their hard not to like Napoli Cut, and they’re Half-Canvassed? Usually that combo is going to run you $469 – $499. Like the charcoal option on the right (below). That one is $499. Yet the charcoal on the left is a hundred bucks less. So what’s the difference? According to Suitsupply VP & Creative Man Nish de Gruiter, it’s just the fabric…
“The blue line suits are all half canvas, the fabric we offer in this line are Barberis 110’s that we buy large quantity in these basics, so that gives us room to offer these at $399.
Suits in our purple line are 110’s and 120’s. These fabrics are seasonal or come from different mills like Ethomas, Barbera, Larusmiani etc. Meter price at these mills for less quantity is fairly higher than the basics.”
– Nish de Gruiter
Suitsupply VP
So in essence, Suitsupply has launched a basics/essential suiting line that they can make possible due to buying large quantities of dependable shades & patterns. For $100 less, you’re sacrificing some selection in terms of the wilder patterns & higher end fabrics, but you still get the Napoli Cut, half canvass, and plenty to pick from in Super 110s blue & grey shades:
Currently they’ve got those nine up and available for $399. Bird’s eye, a couple herringbone options, some stripes, and a few solids. If you want a smooth-as-glass navy, you’ll still have to shell out the $499, but that’s getting pretty picky. Especially if you’re making your first leap from fused to a canvassed option.
Sizes don’t appear to be quite as wide in range when compared to the purple line (at post time, there’s not as many options for Short & Long for the $399 offerings), but maybe that contributes to the more affordable price too. Whatever the case, most are going to see this as a big move by Suitsupply. And it’s a welcome one… unless you’re a competitor in the suit making business.
Thoughts from you guys? Is this genius by Suitsupply? Will it really put the screws to fused suit makers that offer their stuff in the $250 – $350 range? Or do the Suitsupply functioning sleeve buttons, and lack of suit separate options, still make Suitsupply a no-go for you? Leave it all in the comments below…
I think this seems pretty amazing. If the construction is the same quality, I’d be all over this when I start working again.
I’d really like to try out their Napoli cut suits but the lack of suit separate options is a deal breaker for me.
Wow, thanks for the heads up. Pulled the trigger on the dark grey Napoli to replace a $200 charcoal suit I bought over 10 years ago coming out of college. Now to find a local tailor I can trust with it.
The over-obsessive folks in the Style Forum are led to believe these $399 Napolis are indeed fused according to Suitsupply’s customer service. I personally would like to hear an official statement before anything.
Joe uses a direct quotation from a suit supply VP saying they’re half canvased. That seems like an official statement. What are the SF guys saying about canvased?
Completely agree, as a Big legs / small torso guy, the assumed ratio almost never works for me. I can assure you however, if you can make it to Atlanta, seattle or wherever else they’ve got a shop…you will NOT be disappointed.
Made me want to slap a banana republic rep for daring to charge $700 for a suit with armholes near my waist.
Once they’ve got your measurements on file…the process becomes concerningly easy, I’d recommend you cut out time of your next vacation to swing by.
When Joe and I spoke with Suit Supply’s VP, he gave us a direct quote that was used above in the article so I’d take that as the Official Statement.
Does anyone know if these guys have room to be let out at the waist? I have really slim shoulders and generally jackets that fit my shoulders pull too much at the middle.
It’s also very difficult to distinguish between half canvased and fused jackets, 99% of people can only reliably test for full canvas.
They may have simply got it wrong this time
RIP J Crew Ludlow
I’d like to give Suit Supply a try for my next suit, which will also be my first suit purchased new since I was a kid, but I’m not going to lay out that kinda money sight unseen. I’ll probably try on some of the different cuts at their DC store next time I’m down there. For a first non-deptartment store, non-vintage/thrifted suit I may well decide it’s worth it to spend an extra hundred just to get a cut that fits me better or a fabric I am not just OK with, but actually love, because for me an “inexpensive” suit is a big investment and I want to love it for years to come and get lots of use out of it. That said if the Napoli cut works well for me, this new lower price will be quite welcome.
I would love to see a review. Just wondering are indocino suits half canvassas? I bought a essential grey 2 years ago for $379. This is before there price bump/increased quality.
From what I recall, the previous $399 blue line might have been fused (never got an official word on that) but according to Nish as well as the graphics/details on their site, these are in fact half canvas.
You guys love to hate on the functioning sleeve buttons. I know why. But as someone who has had trouble finding clothes that fit my whole life, I finally have a brand that does it for me. And since I don’t need sleeve adjustments on my jackets, I really like having the buttons that work. No one really knows, but it makes me feel good when I wear it. That’s it. Just had to stand up for the functioning buttons.
True that it can sometimes be hard to tell, but to me the bottom line is this: I don’t care if they have Unicorn pelts stuck in there. If these $399 suits feel, fit, drape, and move like their $469-$499 line, this is a big deal. I really, really like the JCF Thompson options, and obviously they’re much less, but they don’t move nearly as well as a Suitsupply. This sub $400 price tag gets them closer… not close… but closer… in price to many a fused suit that just feels like a fused suit.
Totally fine, and the Napoli 38R fits my sleeves perfectly. Even if they were non-functioning, I wouldn’t have the sleeves adjusted. That said, this site isn’t about my opinion, or a few people’s opinions, it’s about you guys the readers. And many of you guys really want to have that option of dialing the sleeves in just so.
Maybe Suitsupply could save some money by not adding functional buttonholes, just saying.
I haven’t looked at these guys too much. Do all of their styles feature a button stance as high as the Napoli’s pictured above?
I couldn’t resist ordering one of the darker Blue Plain suits. I have the Napoli in grey faux uni, so I will compare the two when the new one arrives. I love it my Napoli though. It fits like a charm. Same with my two Londons and my Washington, though. But if the Blue Plain turns out fine I’ll probably get a dark grey too.
(just to clarify, when I said “you guys”, I did pretty much mean a lot of the comments, not the blog’s position)
Before the price increase, they used their own method that was somewhere between fully fused and half-canvassed. After the price increase, it is my understanding that they’re now using true half-canvassed construction.
I think the London fit has stronger shoulders and a top button at the natural waist (instead of slightly above). It’s a more typical business suit.
If you have time to click through their suit fits, there is a little video that explains all of the features on their website.
Gotcha. Thanks Tom!
It’s a deal-breaker for people who can’t fit both the designated jacket and the pants for a given size. Separates allows you to choose a jacket size independently of the pants. If the suit fits you, then it doesn’t matter if it’s a separate or not.
No separates means you’re stuck with whatever drop (difference between chest and waist measurement) they’ve decided on for that cut, whereas for separates, you can buy a suit jacket & pants independently in whatever size you want. (A typical drop is 6 to 8 inches, i.e. 40 jacket, 32 to 34 pants. Suitsupply is around a 7″ drop, at least based on their Washington fit – I’m a 40S jacket & 33 pants, and it fits well.) It shouldn’t be an issue for most people, especially because there’s a seam allowance in the pants so you can take them in or let them out a bit, but for guys with odd body types (super-athletic types will tend to have a larger drop), separates can be a much better option.
w2c unicorn pelt?
Suit Supply offers free returns so if you’re not satisfied, you can return it with no risk.
Can someone tell me, is the Napoli Blue Stripe a good first suit for work and play? Or is it a little too flashy for the office? Or are pinstripes just not in yet? Thanks!
-Soon-to-graduate with liberal arts degree, an office job, and no suits.
Is it just me or does that “Grey Plain” suit on the second row, first from the left appear to have some kind of subtle striping: http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/suits/napoli-grey-plain/P3760I.html
As far as I’m concerned, SuitSupply has been beating J. Crew at the mid-range suit game for a while now, but this is the nail in the coffin. They both have their shortcomings, but having owned both I think SuSu is offering a much better garment for a lot less at full retail, and this only increases the discrepancy.
Love the JCF as well, but at just under a year of 2.5x/week usage, the jacket is really starting to look bad. Can definitely tell its fused and it doesn’t drape like it used to.
Understanding its a lot of wear for a $200 suit, not sure I’ll be picking another up. Its done me well, and I loved it, but given I wear suits everyday it only makes sense to spend a little more. Picked up first suit supply in London and not looking back. Going to buy 2-3 more shortly to round out the closet.
What is the distinction between the 4 different “blue plain” suits in the link? Just different shades of blue? And what is Faux Uni?
Yes I know this but I’d actually like to try on the different cuts, see how they fit me, and maybe fondle the different fabrics before I drop that much coin. I’m confident I can eventually get an OK fit eventually through trial and error and returns etc, but I’m also confident I can get a better fit faster if I actually try on several different sizes and cuts at the same time, and I know I can get a much better feel for the different fabrics if I actually feel them. In short I plan on making some great memories in this suit, I want to really know what my choices are before I order.
Yes, it’s herringbone.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Herringbone_(cloth)
Agreed – functioning buttonholes rule them out for me.
I’m in need of a new suit in the next 2 weeks, big interview coming up. No SS stores near me, so have to rely on the website. I just wanted to ask any of you on the navy Napoli. I tried the Ludlow, and besides the other accolades, the rich navy color is what impressed me. Can you guys tell me which of the blue shades of the SS Napoli most closely resembles the Ludlow navy? From the pictures on SS, I’m afraid of any shine on the navy
Go for it. Be known for having a killer suit. Congrats on the graduation!
I’d go plain with a navy or charcoal suit. By choosing plain, you will have an easier time coordinating items and avoiding pattern clash. A pinstriped suit is more aggressive and, on a young person, could come off as arrogant. A plain navy or charcoal suit is appropriate in all business and formal environments.
There is indeed a shine on the Suit Supply Napoli. Try for the Blue Plain that comes out darkest when you view the vest close-up zoomed in.
Hey man, someone on StyleForum took pics of the Navy Napoli in store and it looks rather dark.
http://www.styleforum.net/t/250682/lightbox/post/6824806/id/1097401
I purchased the Napoli Blue Plain a few weeks ago, and I’d say the third image where it shows the items without the model is a more accurate representation of color in doors. http://us.suitsupply.com/en_US/suits/napoli-blue-plain/P3753I.html?start=11&cgid=Suits&prefn1=styleFit&prefv1=Classic-Napoli
It’s a huge deal-breaker for some of us. Unfortunately, I am completely left out of the wonderful world of Suit Supply. I need the chest of a 36R but the sleeves of a 48L/50R.. so without the option to lengthen the sleeves my only remaining option is to gain a significant amount of weight. So you better cherish those wonderful OTR suits you buy!
I think the phrasing is a little funny because as rsq and JC have already pointed out, it actually amounts to saying that the suits don’t fit. And that’s always a deal breaker. Unless there are people out there who are ideologically opposed to places not offering separates of course.
I have a Navy Napoli and it’s not as dark as the picture on Styleforum. That looks nearly black.
Oh trust me, I do cherish the off-the-rack. The first time it was like the clouds parted and the light shone down. But the phrasing of your comment, “completely left out of the wonderful world of Suit Supply”….now I feel really bad. That shouldn’t have to happen to anyone!
I have a Napoli on right now. There’s definitely some room in the waist and seat for adjustment on the pants, but I would guess only enough to go up a size (like from a 32 to a 33 waist for example). I’d say the amount of extra material for adjustment is similar to most other off-the-rack suits.
Thankfully the size I need I can work with the pants just well, not being a gym-idiot and doing only upper body has its benefits
Not sure why the hatred for functioning buttons, I won’t buy a suit that doesn’t have them, you can undo one if your cuff is squished etc. If you want to argue that you can make the sleeves longer, I’m sorry but that just looks stupid having the buttons so far away from the bottom. I have a hard time with sleeve length before anyone chimes in it’s difficult.
Other off-the-rack suits with non-functioning buttons really have 3 inches of extra material in the sleeves?? That seems like a crazy amount of extra material. Or are you limited to MTM/custom suits?
Ah, sorry. I meant in the stomach of the suit jacket – just reread my comment and realized I didn’t phrase it well.
I feel the same way about a MTM suit I received as a gift. SuitSupply suits fit me much, much better off the rack, and I could have easily had two Napolis and money left over for what the MTM suit cost my very generous relative.
Yeah, there is room to let it out (I came close to letting mine out, but held off to see if I drop some winter weight), but I would again say probably about the same amount of extra material that you would expect to find in other off-the-rack suits
I scored a Purple Line Napoli from the Outlet. It is spectacular 120s wool from Canonico. I think the Blue Line seems like great value. Unfortunately, the dark grey is sold out in my size otherwise I would pop on one.
I really appreciate the explanations, super helpful thanks a lot!
“Save up and buy Brioni or Kiton, pleb” if I had to guess.
Sorry, the way I phrased it made it seem like I could get others OTR. I really can’t. I’m just especially bummed about Suit Supply.
I usually need an extra 2 inches in the sleeves. I would be a 38L/40L which equates to 34.5-35 sleeves… I need 36.5 at a minimum. So it’s not usually 3 inches (for some reason after entering my measurements, Suit Supply recommended a 36R….)
So yeah, I am pretty much limited to MTM/custom
Functioning button holes is a deal-MAKER for me. I paid $125 to put them on my other suits.
Thanks for the advice! I’m actually slightly colorblind, so which of these suits is a “plain navy?” Not sure I see one.
I own 3 Suitsupply suits and have gotten nothing but complements. I’m a loyal BR customer, but there’s no way I’ll ever buy a suit from them, not when I can get good quality and great customer service from SS.
As your first suit, i suggest going with charcoal, since it gos with just about anything. Second suit, go with a plain navy. After that, you can venture out with thin pinstripes, browns, and plaids.
I just want to be like everyone else! At the moment, my job doesn’t require a lot of suits/blazers, but I know it’s coming at some point… which is when I’m going to be really bummed.
Maybe I’ll just go into the Suit Supply store here in Chicago and see what they say.
nice – but im already set with the JCF Thompsons – if only I had more reasons to wear suits
I have the same problem. Suit supply reps have told me that depending on the style, there’s about half and inch to 3/4’s on either side of the waist for letting out. The Napoli has about 3/4 on each.
I’ve seen Propersuit and Kent Wang recommended pretty regularly. I haven’t seen anything from Propersuit in person but Kent Wang’s MTM is very, very impressive. Both run about $750-1100, depending on the fabric.
Has anyone been to the store in Vegas? What’s the experience like?
I also agree that the Napoli sleeves are wider than their other suits. It’s odd, because I’ve tried pretty much all of their cuts, and the Napoli seems to be the only one that has the wider sleeves. Maybe they wanted the Napoli to be their one suit that could appeal to most guys, allowing more give in the sleeves so that they could be taken in if necessary.
You got it, they’re all subtly different fabrics with variations on pattern and tone. “Faux Uni” means it appears to be one color but is actually a subtle combination of multiple colors that blend together. I have a shirt that is very tiny (1mm?) stripes in white and blue that are imperceptible from outside my personal space. Some close talkers might notice the stripes but to everybody else it just looks like a solid pale blue shirt. That’s Faux Uni