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How to wear multiple patterns – The One Basic Rule

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How to Mix Patterns: Contrast is key

It’s all about contrast.  Your patterns can’t be too close in size, boldness, or color.  It screws with your head.  There should be a clear visual break between your layers.  That way a person’s brain doesn’t have to hit overdrive attempting to figure out just where your shirt stops and your jacket begins.

Mixing patterns is a lot like telling a joke.  It’s all about creating just enough surprise, disruption, etc… without going so over the top that it’s uncomfortable, or being so subtle it’s hard to understand.  You want balance.  Here’s a (somewhat) easy way to do it:

Assign each patterned piece of clothing you’d like to wear together a number.  Ballpark their level of boldness.  Zero is extremely subtle.  Ten is pretty bold.  Patterns get bumped up a few notches if they’re different (stripes vs checks) since they’ll contrast and more easily noticed when they run into each other.  Now, let’s chart a few examples…

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Combo A: The INC Ultra Light Jacket and Red Check shirt have almost the exact same pattern at the same level of intensity.  That’s hard on the eyes and buries it in the warning zone.

Combo B: The INC Ultra Light Jacket and Blue Light Stripe Shirt have a similar size pattern, but the pattern and color contrast is different.  Still a little close for most to pull off.  A solid tie would help.

Combo C: The INC Ultra Light Jacket and Blue Bold Bengal Stripe shirt patterns are different in shape (check vs. stripe), spacing, and intensity.  That puts it in the safe area.
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The Bottom Line

All MS Paint created graphs aside, the fail-safe method is to make one pattern bold and the other subtle. Wearing a worsted wool suit?  Wear a thin stripe shirt and rugby block-stripe tie. A gingham shirt?  Try it with a solid jacket and pencil stripe pocket square. You want contrast in pattern and intensity, all without looking like an Iron Butterfly video. And when all else fails, just wear one bold pattern with a bunch of solids.

Now as Brian Wilson from the S.F. Giants would say, “let’s get weird.”

Comments

  1. Learning to mix patterns is that “next level” type stuff that can really up your game, but it does take some trial and error.  This article is spot-on:  Patterns should be of different weights, types, and boldness.

    I was at a wedding last weekend.  Saw several guys wearing pinstripe suits with pinstripe shirts. While I applaud the effort, it kinda came across like the guy thought it would be “neat looking” without considering how it actually meshed as an outfit.

  2. Jacket looks really nice and crisp in the pictures. Mine looks nothing like that

    Im guessing yours was pressed a bit? 

  3. I sorely needed this post.  It’s a good beginning, but I could use a whole lot more schooling.  I realize that style involves taking risks, especially in matching/coordinating- not for the meek.  Sometimes it pays off with serendipitous, head-turning (in a good way) combinations.  Sometimes it’s a huge bomb.  I accept the risk, but would like to be better prepared, to develop an “eye” that I can rely on, especially when I’m groggy and getting dressed for work.

    P.S.  Same goes for cooking.  My horseradish/maple syrup omelet?  Spontaneous and serendipitously awesome.  My garlic-blueberry bread?  Not horrendous, but even after tweaking and refining the recipe, it never quite worked.

  4. Get your outfits ready the night before, if possible.  Gives you plenty of time to check your outfit in the mirror, see what works, etc.  

  5.  I’m finding the best way to infuse patterns with success for the beginner is to limit yourself. Took out my INC unstructured glen plaid blazer for the first time this last weekend and wore a white button down oxford with a solid navy blue tie. Keep it simple, stupid – is the key to sartorial success for the tentative beginner. I’d love to have even more sprezzatura someday, but I’m already succeeding with what I’m doing. But it is hard not to succeed while all the other undergraduate males at my conference had unopened box stitches, poorly fitting suits and shirts with sneakers, and garishly patterned ties in abundance. They could do well with Joe’s advice – in the mean time I’ll enjoy the limited competition for attention from the undergraduate females., poorly fitting suits and shirts with sneakers, and garishly patterned ties in abundance. They could do well with Joe’s advice – in the mean time I’ll enjoy the limited competition for attention from the undergraduate females.

  6.  Nah, I think it’s just the super up close / flash playing tricks.  It’s rumpled for sure.  But not disheveled either.  It’s probably my favorite jacket of the moment.

  7. Joe, have you read Flusser’s Dressing the Man? While some of his advice is a bit too formal, he gives incredible advice on dressing with patterns. Importantly, his status as Style Arbiter means that following his advice will ensure that people who notice this sort of thing never fault you for breaking The Rules.

  8.  Lucky. Mine fits funny, though i really like the jacket. It is definitely in need of a tailoring as it is too long. Sleeves and jacket length. Unsure how easy the jacket length would be to bring up because of the pockets.

  9. Thanks so much for this. Great timing too; I’ve been wondering about this lately. 

  12. This is awesome.  Especially for someone who is trying to work more patterns into his wardrobe.  It’s nice to a see a thoughtful examination of not only what looks good, but why it looks good as well.  Another kudos for Dappered and its awesome articles.