Meermin 11660 Oxfords (Ultraflex System) – $195
About the Author: Adam Terry is a thirtysomething business analyst in the construction industry. He enjoys whiskey, watches, boots/shoes, and working on his dad bod father figure.
In the world of traditional, American-styled business dress shoes, finding the perfect balance between style and comfort can be a daunting task. Meermin’s MON-lasted Oxfords aim to redefine this balance with their “premium” materials and innovative Ultraflex Goodyear welting system. These shoes promise not just a polished look for any formal occasion but also the flexibility and support needed for all-day wear. Join me as we delve deep into the features, comfort, and overall performance of these budget friendly dress shoes.
Black, Brown, and a Brown suede all available for $195.
Other materials (including a museum calf cordovan) can be had for an upcharge.
The Adam Review Scale of Excellence (A.R.S.E.)
- 5 – Outstanding! Very nice and well worth the price of admission. Highly recommended.
- 4 – Very satisfactory. Above average, may have very minor issues but still worth it.
- 3 – Satisfactory. Average at best. May have notable issues, may be OK for some at this price.
- 2 – Unsatisfactory. Below average due to defects, flaws, or other imperfections.
- 1 – Poor. Significant issues, not worth purchasing at any price. Avoid!
Details
- Brand: Meermin
- Style: Cap-toe Oxford
- Size: 9.5 UK / 10.5 US / 43.5 EU
- Last: Mon
- Construction: Ultraflex System (Goodyear welt)
- Upper: Du Puy-sourced black box calf aniline calfskin leather
- Sole: City Rubber
- Details: Fully lined uppers, memory foam filler up front, cork filler at rear, steel shank
- Extras: N/A
- Country of Origin: China
- Price: $195 USD + shipping
Walk like an egyp… skeleton?
Ordering/Delivery/Returns
My pair of “116660” cap-toe Oxfords was ordered via Meermin.com on a Thursday evening in September. After working through a few hiccups with their No Fraud anti-fraud system (our billing and shipping addresses did not match), my pair finally shipped out on Friday evening from a Dallas, TX based address. They arrived on my doorstep on the following Tuesday afternoon. Note that standard “ground” shipping is usually $15, but due to an upcoming work trip and tight timeline, we upgraded this order to UPS 2nd Day Air for a $30 shipping fee.
FYI: Meermin has a new US-based returns network, but you have a 15-calendar day window from the delivery date to return items for an exchange or refund. Note that all products must be in brand new, unworn and resellable condition. For shoes, this means that the uppers must not be creased and the soles must not be scratched. Make sure to try these ones on the carpet!
Score: 4/5 Stars – Ordering is OK, but shipping is not free and the return window is short.
Goodyear welted, timeless looks, and under $200… but baseline shipping is $15.
Packaging/Unboxing
This pair arrived in a rather nice box that resembles those used by Grant Stone. The Oxfords inside were wrapped in a few layers of tissue paper and were stuffed with plenty of it, too, to help keep their shape in transit across a few oceans. This particular pair shipped with one medium-sized cotton flannel-like shoe bag that can hold both shoes. No spare laces, no fancy accessories. When shopping for budget friendly dress shoes, it’s important to set realistic expectations as you might need to forgo some of the typical niceties that typically ship with more expensive pairs. As such, I feel like this unboxing experience was fairly typical as compared to similarly priced pairs from retailers like Nordstrom or DTC brands like Beckett Simonon.
Score: 4/5 Stars – Above average for this price tier, but could include spare laces.
Cotton flannel storage bag included.
No spare laces or anything else though.
First Impressions
Fresh out of the box, I’m immediately struck by the rich black leather of these classic oxfords. Sourced from the well renowned Tanneries du Puy in France (owned by Hermès), the box calf leather boasts a tight grain structure that speaks to its quality. However, I can’t help but notice how stiff and rigid the shoes feel – more so than other pairs I’ve handled recently. It’s clear that these will require a substantial break-in period, which might prove to be a bit of a challenge.
Rich, French Box-Calf Leather.
But it’s stiff. Be prepared to commit real break-in time for these.
The overall design is well-executed, striking a lovely balance between conservative and contemporary aesthetics. There are no extraneous details to detract from the clean lines – no unusually bright metal eyelets, obnoxious stitching, or oddly shaped cap toe layers. Speaking of eyelets, the eyelet design of these oxfords is worth noting as five blind eyelets maintain a clean look, with the topmost one reinforced from behind by a metal insert for added durability. This small detail shows consideration for the shoe’s durability and potential longevity. The laces are round and lightly waxed, though I find myself wishing for higher quality options like those from Guarded Goods, which would be worth the small additional investment out of pocket.
Clean lines.
The welt, made from vegetable-tanned leather, is cleanly stitched to the midsole. Particularly impressive is the seamless joint where the welt ends meet, showing no unsightly gaps or haphazard assembly during construction. This precision in the welt construction is a hallmark of quality control, attention to detail, and it helps contribute to both the clean aesthetics and a tad bit of extra durability of the shoe. These features, while subtle, make a notable difference.
Welt is impressive and precise.
Examining the interior, I’m pleased to see full grain calf leather lining throughout. This choice adds both comfort and longevity compared to less expensive fabric or cheaper leather alternatives. Let’s talk a bit more in depth about the removable insole as part of their “system”.
Meermin’s Ultraflex System represents their innovative approach to Goodyear Welted construction, designed to blend durable construction, refined style, and relative comfort in dress shoes. A welting insole made from full-grain vegetable-tanned leather provides structure and support, while an additional removable over-insole layer made of memory foam, topped with full-grain calf leather, further enhances comfort. I’ll note here that the veg-tan welting insole is about half as thick as the one in my Allen Edmonds and Alden shoes, but that seems like an easy and less important corner to cut for cost. Should you need more support or a fully custom orthotic, you’re in luck because these sockliners are not glued down! Underneath the welting insole, the footbed incorporates adaptive memory foam in the forepart for walking comfort, while maintaining arch support with a steel shank and moldable cork filler in the back.
Removable over-insole is made of memory foam then topped with full-grain calf leather
This system aims to make the shoes comfortable from the first wear while maintaining a stylish appearance (aka, not needing a giant blown rubber sneaker outsole). While comfort is always subjective, they do feel a little more comfortable out of the box as compared to traditional dress shoes that are crafted around thick slabs of vegetable tanned leather with no cushioning. One notable feature is the allegedly superior insulation, with the wearer’s foot sitting about 2.5cm above the ground, significantly more than in cemented shoes. Walking on clouds? Hardly, but Meermin attempts to address the common issue of stiff, uncomfortable welted dress shoes while preserving their durability and classic aesthetics. Did they succeed? That’s for you to decide after you order a pair for yourself to try on in person. What say you?
Rubber outsoles and heel lifts are surprisingly good quality for the price.
Finally, the rubber outsoles and heel lifts are a pleasant surprise, with the heel stack being made from layers of vegetable tanned leather instead of cheaper paper fiber or leatherboard. I’m a fan of these rubber outsoles, too, as they look like a less-refined (or more refined, for dress shoes) version of Vibram’s #269 Westerner outsoles that I have on some boots. Nice!
Score: 5/5 Stars – Very well thought out and well constructed dress shoes. Nice!
Underneath the welting insole, the footbed uses adaptive memory foam in the forepart,
while maintaining arch support with a steel shank and moldable cork filler in the back.
Sizing/Fit/Comfort
In terms of fit and sizing, I recommend trying at least a half-size up from your true-to-size Brannock measurement. I tried this pair in size 9.5 UK (10.5 US) and they feel notably too small. It might be this particular pair; they might have been lasted too small or mismarked, but they feel like they’re a half to a whole size too small. Meermin adjusted the lines and looks of their ROIS last to create the all-new MON last specifically to work with the double insole system in their new Goodyear-welted Ultraflex System. Both the ROIS and MON lasts are “smart round” lasts with an elongated, almond toed, and straight shaped last design. They have a UK E (US D, medium) width fitting, narrow heels, and high insteps.
These run noticeably small.
Try at least a half size up.
For size reference, I consider myself a 10.5 D on a Brannock device (10.5 heel to ball, 11 heel to toe with high arches). For roomier lasts like Alden’s Barrie or Grant Stone’s Leo, I take a half-size down to 10 D. For “true to size” lasts, like Allen Edmond’s 65 last, I tend to go TTS with a 10.5 D. For sneakers, I prefer a 10.5 with Converse and an 11 with Nike, Adidas, etc.
Comfort is always subjective, but given a pair in the correct sizing, I feel like these Oxfords will take some time to properly break in. While the insole feels pretty nice, the upper leather and overall tight construction feels stiffer and less malleable than similar cap toe dress shoes from Grant Stone or Allen Edmonds. Meermin has a reputation for a long break-in period with some folks reporting online that they experienced lots of pain and agony during the first few weeks. While I haven’t experienced that here, I can see how the lack of flexibility can cause issues.
Score: 3/5 Stars – Sizes run small, so size UP. May have a long break-in period.
Final Thoughts
Wrapping this one up, these Meermin oxfords offer impressive value for their price point of under $200. The overall build quality is commendable, featuring a novel Goodyear welt construction and thoughtful details like the removable sockliner and reinforced top eyelets. The choice of materials, from the Du Puy box calf leather upper to the vegetable-tanned leather internals, speaks to a commitment to affordable quality. Meermin’s Ultraflex System addresses common comfort issues in welted shoes, potentially offering a more enjoyable wearing experience right out of the box (but after the break-in period). The clean, classic design with its well-proportioned pattern strikes a balance between timeless and contemporary aesthetics. While there may be room for improvement in areas like lace quality, these oxfords represent a solid entry point into higher-end footwear, offering a combination of durability, style, and comfort that’s hard to beat at this price range. I highly recommend you give these a try. Cheers!
Avg. Score: 4/5 Stars – Highly recommended. Even with the break-in time and tricky sizing, these oxfords represent a fantastic value.
