NOTE: This drops to $115 if you were lucky enough to get one of those user specific F&F 50% off codes.
Kudos to BR for attacking not one, but now two body types with their blazer / sportcoat (and hopefully suit jacket?) fits. A few of us were sad when they killed off their old “tailored fit” in favor of the much slimmer “modern slim” which now peppers their inventory. And that’s all they had for a while. The very trim, modern slim. Twas not a good time for those on the thicker side. But this brand new “Standard” fit? It’s pretty much the old tailored fit.
Meaning: both the old Tailored fit and this new “Standard” fit look like they’ve been sculpted by a scissors and sewing machine wielding pro… but they’re not tight either. Sculpted, yet won’t squeeze the broader / strength training crowd. That is, unless you’re a hulked out monster / freak beast (NSFW language, yet hilarious satire), then, well, you’re probably all custom all the time anyway.
An un-altered, fresh out of the box, 40R on 5’10” / 185lbs. Not bad.
- More room in the arms and chest, plus a waist that can accommodate the barrel-torsoed. But it can also be brought in for the inverted triangle types.
- Larger arm holes to accommodate biceps and triceps, yet aren’t anchored overly low. The arms move freely and easily without pulling/tugging on the body of the jacket.
- Nice button stance. Not too high or too low.
- The tail is a good length. Not chopped. Which is great, because shorter tails can make broader dudes look boxy. The X axis and Y axis above the waist start looking almost identical. Sorta Sponge Bob Square Pants like.
- Underarm shields are now made from the same fabric the shell is made of, not stuffy polyester.
Fully lined. Not ideal for many of us.
THE NOT SO GOOD
- BR, along with many other retailers, continue to insist on using difficult to tailor, functioning button holes. And the sleeves seem to run perhaps a touch long. (I’m 70 inches tall with a 70 inch wingspan, so, dead on average, and I’m showing no shirt cuff in the above front/back side by side shot.)
- Fully lined. Again. (At least on this particular model.) 61% poly, 39% viscose for the interior body. 100% poly for the sleeves.
They seem to be sticking w/ functioning sleeve buttons, which are tougher to tailor.
The BOTTOM LINE
It’s a welcome addition to their lineup, but BR’s continued dedication to full linings and functional sleeve button holes are gonna turn a lotta guys off. Those two details might even send many in the direction of alternatives like the J. Crew Crosby fit or Spier and Mackay’s “Contemporary” Fit (both of which are similar to this “standard” fit, but come with non functioning sleeve buttons and more breathable half-linings and/or breezier lining fabrics).
In regards to this particular blue cotton sportcoat: It’s not something you’d want to wear in the heat. The cotton is a soft, almost brushed/short nap like flannel. Nice, but thick. A touch stiff due to that thickness. And when combined with the full lining, it can get quite sweaty, awfully quick. The back of my shirt was nicely soaked post photo shoot. Which is not what happens when wearing minimally lined lightweight wool or linen jackets that have been previously featured on this site. Even in 95+ heat.