Loake Kempton – Mid $200s to Low $300s*
*Note: this all depends on sales and where you buy ’em. If buying internationally, you’ll have to shell out some major cash for shipping. Meanwhile, catch a sale at a retailer w/ a U.S. site like Charles Trywhitt, and you might get real lucky. More on that later on in the post…
When it comes to the buy-less buy-better mantra, many invoke that strategy when it comes to highly versatile, classic pieces, and then go cheap on trendier experiments. These brown suede chukkas from the English shoemaker Loake are anything but trendy. They’re as classic & versatile as they are well-built. So while the price might seem steep at first, you’ll wear them a lot, with a lot, and they’ll be around for a long… long time.
It was one year ago I decided to treat myself by purchasing a pair of Loake Kempton boots. I had dark denim, I had chinos, I had grey flannel trousers… and I wanted a pair of boots to go with it all. Something that was casual, but not floppy or flimsy. Something that looked as durable as they felt.
The Look
Unlike a standard pair of desert boots, the Kemptons have a full leather lining that gives the boots structure. You can feel that extra support, but you can also see it. They look more formal than a basic, cheap desert boot, but they’re still casual. The silhouette is elegant and streamlined, and the dark brown suede and soft lines tone down the formality of the last. Wear them to work at an office, and then out to a date right after. They’ll look great in both circumstances.
Suede Kemptons are available in a number of different shades including blue, red, medium brown, and dark brown. Most Loake retailers carry the mid brown suede variation, and the others are less common. The pair shown here is a pair in a dark brown shade called “cigar” (and rebranded as the “Gosforth II”) purchased from Herring Shoes. The suede is a deep, dark, rich brown that’s soft to the touch and has an incredible texture.
The Build/Quality
Loake Shoemakers is one of the oldest shoe manufacturers in England. Most would view the craftsmanship and overall quality of these boots as a step up from a pair of Allen Edmonds at the same price point. That being said, I can say from personal experience that the quality of Loake’s 1880 range varies and most of Loake’s shoes are as nice as the Kemptons. These boots are exceptionally well made. Y’know how they say that cheap suede is better than cheap leather? Right. This is NOT cheap suede. And you can tell.
Contrary to popular belief, good suede is easy to maintain with minimal effort. All you’ll need is a suede eraser, a stiff brush, and either Saphir Medaille D’Or Super Invulner Stain Protector Spray or Saphir’s Tarragó Nano Protector spray. After a year of weekly wear in all weather conditions, my Kemptons look nearly flawless. Apart from slight wrinkles where my toes bend, there is little sign of wear on the boots.
The suede version of these boots comes with a Dainite rubber sole. Dainite is slim, hard-wearing, and long-lasting. They’re goodyear welted, so when that sole does finally wear out, it can be replaced.
The Fit & Feel
The Kemptons are built on Loake’s 026 last, a classic shape with a round toe. For comparison’s sake, Loake’s 026 last is wider throughout the body with more room in the toe than the last Allen Edmonds builds their Strands & Park Avenues on (that’d be their popular 5 (or 65) last). I usually wear a 10.5 D for the Allen Edmonds 5 last, but the 10 in the Loake 026 fits great.
The level of comfort is nothing short of outstanding. I have to stand for hours at a time while teaching, and a comfortable shoe is a must. The Suede uppers never feel stiff or constricting, and the leather insole is one of the softest I’ve come across. On the downside, some might find that the back of the boots cut into your heels during the first few wears. That problem disappeared for me, but it’s worth a mention.
I have worn the Kemptons on long walks through uneven European streets, sidewalks, grass, dirt, rain, snow, and ice and they have remained comfortable.
Where to get them (this gets complicated)
Loake Kemptons are sold directly by the manufacturer, but are also frequently rebranded and sold under menswear companies’ store brands. Due to their wide availability, it’s quite possible to find Kemptons on sale at high discounts. You might have to be patient, but it happens. Full retail for these boots is around £209/$350, but they can sometimes be found on sale for as little as £120/$200. And at that price, they’re a bargain. Here’s a few places to keep an eye on for sales & codes
- Herring Shoes: A UK-based shoe company that has the best customer service that I’ve experienced. Herring sells the mid brown suede Kemptons for £158/$266 (to non-EU customers). They also sell dark brown suede Kemptons, rebranded as Herring Gosforth II, for £154/$258. It’s well worth waiting for Herring’s seasonal sales when these prices can drop significantly.
- Charles Tyrwhitt U.S.: Yep, CT often carries the Kemptons during fall and winter (not in stock quite yet), and with their love of sales, they regularly drop in price by 25-40%.
- Pediwear is a well-known UK retailer that sells the Kempton for £158/$266 (to non-EU customers). They have significant sales at least twice a year.
- Brooks Brothers: Brooks Brothers frequently carries the Kemptons rebranded as Peal & Co.® “Ankle Boots” for $498 or $528. Yikes.
Loake’s Kempton suede chukkas are an elegant boot that can be stylishly worn in casual and business casual environments. They’re comfortable enough for those of us who remain on our feet throughout the day. The boots are exceptionally durable and easy to maintain. Acquire them on sale in the mid to low $200s, and you’ll end up with a hugely versatile, long lasting, great looking boot, that’ll feel like a steal every time you lace them up.
About the author: Chris (aka Bruschetta) is an America-born university researcher and teacher based in Glasgow, Scotland, as well as a moderator on Threads. His sense of style is inspired by a childhood dressed in Ivy league trad, and the fact that he is enormously well bred.
Note that you’ll have to pay custom tax if you are in the US and buy from Herring or Pediwear. If it’s shipped by DHL (which Herring uses), it might be a lot.
This article was painfully free of butt jokes.
No pics with the dark denim or grey flannel? Disappointing.
Nice boots, though. And good review.
These boots have been on my wish list for a while… thanks for the review!
I wish they were available in wide widths.
I tried on the re-branded version at Brooks Bros a while back. They were incredible, both in appearance and in comfort, and they were on sale for $150. I use and abuse suede boots, though, and that just felt wrong with these beauties. In hindsight, it’s definitely one of those “coulda, shoulda” moments for me.
I already own a pair of Clark’s desert boot and I have to say that they are so versatile. Probably a casual-staple!
Exactly! Any leads on a brown suede boot with a Dainite soul that fit a wide foot? The fat feet brethren need some help.
Allen Edmonds’ Dundee. An MTO with suede uppers and dainite soles should be possible. You’ll have to pay full freight though.
Or you can check if they have a pair of suede Malvern seconds available in your size (they were discontinued a year or two ago, so it’s a long shot).
I don’t like these articles. Now I “need” something I didn’t even know about 15 minutes ago
Thanks! I have had poor luck with fit with AE’s, but I’ll give them a Loake. (couldn’t resist).
If you ask for it, Herring will ship by Royal Mail as well. I’ve done this, and although it usually take a bit longer (about a week vs 3 or 4 days) a good number of orders have slipped through without getting nailed by customs in Canada. Definitely something to think about.
Do people actually manage to keep suede shoes looking good for years? I can’t see spending as much for suede as I’m willing to spend on something more durable.
These are the type of reviews I enjoy and feel relate personally to my needs. I think I’ve grown out of my JCF, JCrew, Uniqlo, Zara, and H&M phase as my discretionary budget has increased over the years so I appreciate the reviews on higher quality (and priced) items. Thank you.
KClvey, The Kemptons in the pictures above are a little over a year old. I had the same worry vis-à-vis suede when I first purchased them, but I’ve worn them in all weather conditions and they’ve proven to be remarkably durable.
I’m always disappointed when shoes from high-end manufacturers aren’t available in wide widths. I get it for lower-cost shoes, where manufacturing wide widths would drive up costs and make profits too thin, but for something that’s already $350? Disappointing.
I don’t know if you’re like me, but the widest part of my foot is the toe, and, contrary to what you might expect, I’ve found that AE’s 5-last (Strand, etc.) in a correct-sized 3E is actually fantastic for my 10.5 3E/4E feet. Yes, they’re long and narrow, but the length actually means that the toebox is pushed a bit farther forward than you might expect, so while other people often find themselves sizing down on the 5-last, they turn out to be pretty much perfect for me.
My humblest apologies, senpai. I will do my best to satiate your desire for butt humor in future articles.
Thank YOU, Patrick!
Agreed! Rabble rabble rabble!!!
I don’t ask for much.
Sudonihm, You might have luck with Church’s Ely (Chelsea) or Ryder III (Chukka), both of which come in wide widths.
Herring’s Coltham chelsea is the same price as the Kemptons (£154/$260), but it’s on a mixed leather/rubber sole.
But are they sanfordized or not?
I believe the Peal & Co. version is laced with two holes while the Loake version is laced with three, but I can’t swear to that.
Brooks Brothers also sells a two-hole desert boot that’s also made by Loake: http://www.loake.co.uk/sahara.html
Great article. Very well written.
Would you mind providing a little more insight as to winter/snow/ice performance?
I have been looking for a shoe for a European winter this year (rain/ice/snow/walking/not looking like a tourist), and this might be it.
I got myself a pair of Loake Pimlico (the sleeker and chocolate suede version of the Kempton) about a year and a half ago and it is hands down the jewel of my closet. The nap is thick and nothing short of an orgasm to stroke… eh, run your hands on. I got it from Herring shoes as well and never got hit with any custom or duty fees. Makes me feel like Bond when I wear it with a pair of chinos and dark navy polo
The Kemptons look great. In the end, I opted for Church’s Ryder III chukka since I liked the two eyelets better than three for some reason. Great review to boot as well.
I prefer raw suede.
Vanquish, how did the Ryder III’s fit? True to size, ran big? Thanks.
I sized down 1 full size from my US size.
If anyone is interested there is a pair on ebay right now for a very reasonable price with slight imperfections. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Loake-Mens-Chukka-Boot-Kempton-Suede-Brown-UK-7-5-F-RRP-200-Handmade-in-England-/301306234247?pt=UK_Men_s_Shoes&hash=item4627404587
Just a heads up, I bought the Charles Tyrwhitt Harwoods. Although they looked almost exactly like the Kemptons, there were some detailing issues that got me suspicious – the stitching wasn’t as fine, the sole looked much cheaper than dainite, etc. I contacted Loake to ask if they produced the Harwoods, and they said that they had, but that they were based on the Kemptons and produced overseas. They also said that they’ve ramped down their production for CT to a few models and will stop completely by the end of the year.
That being said, they are pretty solid shoes for the price – it depends on if you think the extra $100ish is worth it. I also found them to run pretty huge. I sized down a full size (even though the CT UK->US conversion scale only goes down by a half) and they are still probably half a size too big.
For someone unfamiliar with the fit of the AE 5 last, how would you say sizing compares to either a basic Clark’s desert boot or to Jack Erwin?