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In Review: The Martenero Automatic “Ace”

April 23, 2014 By Joe | Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Also, we take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

Martenero Automatic Watches: The Ace – $485.00

It’s hard not to really like a lot of things about this new, small, New York based watch brand. They’re assembled in the U.S. They use a dependable, automatic, Miyota movement. They’re awfully easy on the eyes, and you even get to pick and choose certain elements of the design. Even the cut of their internet-jib… the website, ordering process… etc… all fantastic.

But that price.

Most watch fans are going to pick one of these up, be impressed, but will have a hard time paying almost half a grand for one. Many may just not feel like it’s a $500 (or, $485) watch. Y’know how a pair of To Boot New York shoes feel nice, but not as nice as a pair of Allen Edmonds? And those TBNY shoes are usually just as expensive if not more so? There’s a bit of that going on here.

Martenero Ace Review on Dappered.comThe aviation inspired Martenero “Ace”

The guts of a Martenero is a basic self winding automatic from the dependable (and affordable) Miyota. It doesn’t hack (meaning: when you pull the crown out, the second hand keeps moving) but you can hand wind it at the crown. 

The 42 mm case (on both models) will hit the sweet spot for plenty. Power reserve is in the 40+ hour range. Water resistance is a respectable 100m thanks in part to a screw down crown. Both the crystal on top and at the exhibition window on the backside are sapphire.

But $450 for a Miyota movement, even if it is under Sapphire, is going to be viewed as on the high side for most. So what do you get for all that extra cash? They’re not 100% “made” in the USA (the heart of the thing, the Miyota engine, is Japanese for starters…) but they are hand assembled in Brooklyn. And they’re a small, based in the US brand. So if that plucks at your Red White & Blue heart strings (sorry Canada), so be it. But most who give Martenero a shot will probably do so thanks to the ability to customize their watch:

Martenero custom options reviewed on Dappered.com

You get to pick one of three dial colors, one of four second hands, the leather strap, and an extra NATO strap. They’ll even ask which strap you’d like to have the watch delivered on. Play around with the virtual watch builder and you’re bound to put together a combo that’d be hard to find anywhere else. Each watch is individually numbered. Word is, once they hit 1000 sold of a certain model, they retire it.

Martenero Ace Watch Review on Dappered.comSapphire crystals, automatic, but not a lot of frills.

Lots of looks, for sure, and the wood box it arrives in is impressive, but the watch is pretty basic. No day or date window. No rotating bezel. Some will like the clean look, some won’t. And that logo on the Ace, while some will like how the angles contrast with the curves of the Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9, others will give it one look and get a sudden urge to go car camping. The leather strap is nice, but doesn’t feel super-luxurious on the wrist. The Ace looks like a tank on the website. In person, it’s certainly well made, but doesn’t have quite the beef some would expect for almost $500.

Shipping does take a bit (took 2.5 weeks for the above grey dial to arrive), but, they say they hand assemble each one. Ships and returns free.

$485 is staring to get into Tissot & Hamilton range. High end Orient too. The ability to pick your dial, second hand, leather & nato straps is going to be applauded by some. But almost $500 worth of applause? Maybe for a few, but the entire watch-loving crowd might not be leaping out of their seats to give a standing ovation.

Martenero and Les on Dappered.com

Filed Under: Reviews, Watches Tagged With: Automatic Watch, Martenero

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Comments

  1. Bruce says

    April 23, 2014 at 11:00 AM

    Thanks Joe for the review. I love the fact that you can customize the watch to your liking. The dial design looks great as well. I was on the fence about getting this watch, and you did make some great points about the price range. The price is a bit high, especially with Orient in the mix. You can get the Orient Curator watch (which was also reviewed on Dappered) for nearly 40% less and it has a sapphire crystal, power reserve and date. The Hamilton Khaki series is also a great buy in this price range. Just too many options here!!

  2. random-adam says

    April 23, 2014 at 11:12 AM

    Initial reaction: “Great! I’m a little sick of all the dauphine-style hands and Arabic numerals on dress watches; it’d be nice to put together something with a plain face, stick or Roman indicators, and feuille hands that look like they came from an IWC Portuguese.”

    After reading:

  3. BenR says

    April 23, 2014 at 11:17 AM

    I don’t mean to be a downer, but it seems like what you’re really paying for here is the ability to pick your seconds hand color. Most watches come in at least 2-3 dial colors, and straps are relatively inexpensive and easy to change yourself. The only true customization option you get with this watch vs. picking your own watch and strap is the seconds hand color.
    Unless something about the aesthetic of this watch really sings to you, I feel like $500 is overpriced for a watch running a no-frills Miyota movement, even if the watch was cased in the US.

  4. Joe says

    April 23, 2014 at 11:22 AM

    True, but there’s not a lot of grey or stark white dial options out there. It’s lots of black or silver. But I see your point. Overall though, I think with the options, these are more colorful (even if the dial “colors” are black, white, and grey).

    But yes, seems a little steep.

  5. Marshall Lilly says

    April 23, 2014 at 11:37 AM

    For some reason, I can’t see anything on this watch save for the tipi at the 12 position…

  6. ChrisLW25 says

    April 23, 2014 at 11:44 AM

    Slightly off topic, but is that a Gibson LP in Blue Burst in that last picture??

  7. DTI says

    April 23, 2014 at 11:50 AM

    Looks like a Gibson (or Epiphone, I suppose) Les Paul Standard

    Just saw you edited….kind of a guitar nerd here….

  8. Invictus says

    April 23, 2014 at 12:08 PM

    Oh good, it’s not just me.

    500+ bones, and I’m going to be looking in Steinhart Triton/GMT territory..

  9. Butch_Zee says

    April 23, 2014 at 12:22 PM

    A bit pricey for what it is. But it’s VERY nice to see a watch without a date box.

  10. Brailleyard says

    April 23, 2014 at 12:24 PM

    but the REAL question is, “would you let your son buy one joe?” or would you tell him…”no simba, wait for the orient.”

  11. Andrew Mitchell says

    April 23, 2014 at 12:38 PM

    Those inlays look a bit more like the Epiphone. A little too curved for the Gibson.

  12. ChrisLW25 says

    April 23, 2014 at 1:00 PM

    I originally thought ES-137, but then noticed the pick guard wasn’t black…

  13. Joe says

    April 23, 2014 at 1:12 PM

    Epiphone. Just getting started with this thing. And by thing, I mean “playing the guitar” (recovering pianist)

  14. Officer Rex Bishop says

    April 23, 2014 at 2:16 PM

    It just doesn’t look like a $500 watch. I’m all about the Made in the USA goods, but I feel like a Shinola looks nicer for the price, even if it’s not an automatic.

  15. Zachary Glotfelty says

    April 23, 2014 at 2:39 PM

    Joe plays guitar?

  16. Joe says

    April 23, 2014 at 2:55 PM

    This Joe is trying to learn. The previous Joe was a harpist, oddly enough.

  17. Officer Rex Bishop says

    April 23, 2014 at 3:08 PM

    Me too.

  18. Zachary Glotfelty says

    April 23, 2014 at 3:15 PM

    It’s a damn fun instrument, man. How long have you been learning?

  19. Csswen says

    April 23, 2014 at 3:25 PM

    I’d rather spend the money on a Maratac Pilot…and then used the leftovers on a Horween strap.

  20. Guest says

    April 23, 2014 at 3:38 PM

    These things should be $200 tops. To those that
    want something custom can just get a SKX007 and have it professionally modded.
    There probably 200 different faces and hand options available on ebay and independent
    sellers.

  21. Rusty DeVorse says

    April 23, 2014 at 4:49 PM

    Hamilton Khaki Pilot 46mm

  22. pierrot says

    April 23, 2014 at 4:56 PM

    I love the customization feature, timex needs to get in on that, they could get away with 100 for a quartz with that

    This watch is still too much though

  23. Rt1583 says

    April 23, 2014 at 9:43 PM

    Maybe, since I am not a watch afficionado (but still the owner of one Martenero, one Tissot, three Hamilton and formerly (stolen) two Citizen watches), I am missing something but it seems ironic that this watch is being denigrated for using a mid-level Citizen movement while its primary peers (used for comparison in the comments) use mid-level Swatch movements and are being put on a pedestal.

  24. pierrot says

    April 24, 2014 at 1:26 AM

    Really like the customization feature but theyre too pricey. Timex should get in on this customization angle, I think they could get away with $100 for a customized quartz

  25. southy says

    April 24, 2014 at 2:21 AM

    Flava-flav has worn smaller watch faces than that around his neck

  26. southy says

    April 24, 2014 at 2:25 AM

    philosophical style question: why are watches the one men’s style item that seem to get by having big, sometimes obnoxious logos right smack in the middle of the face?

  27. Rusty DeVorse says

    April 24, 2014 at 6:04 AM

    Although I agree with you (a little), the styling of the face is undeniably similar to what Joe reviewed. Although the Hamilton is larger, it’s designed as a flieger; the tipi at the top and Miyota movement in the Martanero aren’t for everyone.

    For an extra $60, you have an ETA 2836-2 movement, sapphire, genuine leather, looks to boot, and a timepiece which has received many compliments. Simply providing an alternative.

  28. Mark Johnson says

    April 24, 2014 at 7:43 AM

    I tend to agree with you. It looks sharp to these eyes. If it tells good time then I don’t see why it’s overpriced at roughly $500 considering you can customize it a little bit, and it’s assembled in the US. Are there better deals in watches out there? Sure. But I’m sure you could also spend a lot more for an essentially equivalent watch with a “Swiss” movement that doesn’t tell better time and isn’t more durable. I’m not going to rush out and buy one of these but I don’t understand the piling on.

  29. Joe says

    April 24, 2014 at 8:13 AM

    I don’t understand the piling on either, myself, but I think it’s because that miyota movement is available in much less expensive watches. I like the looks quite a bit, but something about the weight/feel/finish/whatever didn’t get it up to $500 for me, personally. Really like what they’re going after though.

  30. Michael_Walters says

    April 24, 2014 at 1:07 PM

    Meh…. So many start-ups out there with so so designs. Might try looking at G. Gerlach instead. They have some nice designs IMO and better priced, plus they have a sense of humor.

    http://gerlach.org.pl/?lang=en

  31. Adam says

    April 25, 2014 at 9:51 AM

    That’s exactly why. The Miyota family of movements is found in everything from Invicta Pro Diver’s (mine, $85) to Citizens and Seikos that cost as much as this Martenero.

    Why should I spend $400 more for a watch when the differences really come down to new face/hand color changes and a new band? I’m perfectly happy with my Invicta. Might spend $75 for a Shell Cordovan band and would still come out cheaper.

  32. Adam says

    April 25, 2014 at 9:53 AM

    Oh wait, they do.

    https://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/accessories/watchesandwatchstraps/PRDOVR~48137/48137.jsp

  33. Joe says

    April 25, 2014 at 9:55 AM

    Right, no, I understand that, but I don’t understand the act of piling on. And to me, honestly, the movement is fine. Sure it’s not crazy expensive/accurate, but I’m not using it to time anything at the LHC either. I think the weight of the watch & the overall finish, while nice, just wasn’t what I was expecting. And yes, I know that some of that has to do with the movement too.

  34. Adam says

    April 25, 2014 at 10:02 AM

    I would believe that we, as Dappered readers, are more value oriented/focused. While I’m in your boat (frankly, it’s a fine watch but I just wouldn’t buy it), I do also understand why many of us just don’t see the appeal of an expensive “cheap” watch.

  35. Joe says

    April 25, 2014 at 10:06 AM

    Oh, I’m pretty familiar with the Dappered readers 🙂 My point is, some of the piling on seemed strange, being that the drawbacks were covered pretty extensively in the post.

    Overall I get it Adam, I get it.

  36. pierrot says

    April 25, 2014 at 11:16 PM

    yeah but thats jcrew which is overpriced everything

  37. Michael_Walters says

    April 26, 2014 at 11:14 AM

    Adam – Seiko produces it’s own movements and doesn’t use Miyota movements FYI. I know some people have been confused about that before, but Seiko only uses it’s own movements.

    As you noted, Miyota movements (especially the 9015) are very popular with the makers of micro brands and larger companies like Invicta. Seiko movements (under the SII branding) are also pretty popular (companies like Lum-Tec use SII movements).

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