Martenero Automatic Watches: The Ace – $485.00
It’s hard not to really like a lot of things about this new, small, New York based watch brand. They’re assembled in the U.S. They use a dependable, automatic, Miyota movement. They’re awfully easy on the eyes, and you even get to pick and choose certain elements of the design. Even the cut of their internet-jib… the website, ordering process… etc… all fantastic.
But that price.
Most watch fans are going to pick one of these up, be impressed, but will have a hard time paying almost half a grand for one. Many may just not feel like it’s a $500 (or, $485) watch. Y’know how a pair of To Boot New York shoes feel nice, but not as nice as a pair of Allen Edmonds? And those TBNY shoes are usually just as expensive if not more so? There’s a bit of that going on here.
The aviation inspired Martenero “Ace”
The guts of a Martenero is a basic self winding automatic from the dependable (and affordable) Miyota. It doesn’t hack (meaning: when you pull the crown out, the second hand keeps moving) but you can hand wind it at the crown.
The 42 mm case (on both models) will hit the sweet spot for plenty. Power reserve is in the 40+ hour range. Water resistance is a respectable 100m thanks in part to a screw down crown. Both the crystal on top and at the exhibition window on the backside are sapphire.
But $450 for a Miyota movement, even if it is under Sapphire, is going to be viewed as on the high side for most. So what do you get for all that extra cash? They’re not 100% “made” in the USA (the heart of the thing, the Miyota engine, is Japanese for starters…) but they are hand assembled in Brooklyn. And they’re a small, based in the US brand. So if that plucks at your Red White & Blue heart strings (sorry Canada), so be it. But most who give Martenero a shot will probably do so thanks to the ability to customize their watch:
You get to pick one of three dial colors, one of four second hands, the leather strap, and an extra NATO strap. They’ll even ask which strap you’d like to have the watch delivered on. Play around with the virtual watch builder and you’re bound to put together a combo that’d be hard to find anywhere else. Each watch is individually numbered. Word is, once they hit 1000 sold of a certain model, they retire it.
Sapphire crystals, automatic, but not a lot of frills.
Lots of looks, for sure, and the wood box it arrives in is impressive, but the watch is pretty basic. No day or date window. No rotating bezel. Some will like the clean look, some won’t. And that logo on the Ace, while some will like how the angles contrast with the curves of the Arabic numerals at 3, 6, and 9, others will give it one look and get a sudden urge to go car camping. The leather strap is nice, but doesn’t feel super-luxurious on the wrist. The Ace looks like a tank on the website. In person, it’s certainly well made, but doesn’t have quite the beef some would expect for almost $500.
Shipping does take a bit (took 2.5 weeks for the above grey dial to arrive), but, they say they hand assemble each one. Ships and returns free.
$485 is staring to get into Tissot & Hamilton range
Thanks Joe for the review. I love the fact that you can customize the watch to your liking. The dial design looks great as well. I was on the fence about getting this watch, and you did make some great points about the price range. The price is a bit high, especially with Orient in the mix. You can get the Orient Curator watch (which was also reviewed on Dappered) for nearly 40% less and it has a sapphire crystal, power reserve and date. The Hamilton Khaki series is also a great buy in this price range. Just too many options here!!
Initial reaction: “Great! I’m a little sick of all the dauphine-style hands and Arabic numerals on dress watches; it’d be nice to put together something with a plain face, stick or Roman indicators, and feuille hands that look like they came from an IWC Portuguese.”
After reading:
I don’t mean to be a downer, but it seems like what you’re really paying for here is the ability to pick your seconds hand color. Most watches come in at least 2-3 dial colors, and straps are relatively inexpensive and easy to change yourself. The only true customization option you get with this watch vs. picking your own watch and strap is the seconds hand color.
Unless something about the aesthetic of this watch really sings to you, I feel like $500 is overpriced for a watch running a no-frills Miyota movement, even if the watch was cased in the US.
True, but there’s not a lot of grey or stark white dial options out there. It’s lots of black or silver. But I see your point. Overall though, I think with the options, these are more colorful (even if the dial “colors” are black, white, and grey).
But yes, seems a little steep.
For some reason, I can’t see anything on this watch save for the tipi at the 12 position…
Slightly off topic, but is that a Gibson LP in Blue Burst in that last picture??
Looks like a Gibson (or Epiphone, I suppose) Les Paul Standard
Just saw you edited….kind of a guitar nerd here….
Oh good, it’s not just me.
500+ bones, and I’m going to be looking in Steinhart Triton/GMT territory..
A bit pricey for what it is. But it’s VERY nice to see a watch without a date box.
but the REAL question is, “would you let your son buy one joe?” or would you tell him…”no simba, wait for the orient.”
Those inlays look a bit more like the Epiphone. A little too curved for the Gibson.
I originally thought ES-137, but then noticed the pick guard wasn’t black…
Epiphone. Just getting started with this thing. And by thing, I mean “playing the guitar” (recovering pianist)
It just doesn’t look like a $500 watch. I’m all about the Made in the USA goods, but I feel like a Shinola looks nicer for the price, even if it’s not an automatic.
Joe plays guitar?
This Joe is trying to learn. The previous Joe was a harpist, oddly enough.
Me too.
It’s a damn fun instrument, man. How long have you been learning?
I’d rather spend the money on a Maratac Pilot…and then used the leftovers on a Horween strap.
These things should be $200 tops. To those that
want something custom can just get a SKX007 and have it professionally modded.
There probably 200 different faces and hand options available on ebay and independent
sellers.
Hamilton Khaki Pilot 46mm
I love the customization feature, timex needs to get in on that, they could get away with 100 for a quartz with that
This watch is still too much though
Maybe, since I am not a watch afficionado (but still the owner of one Martenero, one Tissot, three Hamilton and formerly (stolen) two Citizen watches), I am missing something but it seems ironic that this watch is being denigrated for using a mid-level Citizen movement while its primary peers (used for comparison in the comments) use mid-level Swatch movements and are being put on a pedestal.
Really like the customization feature but theyre too pricey. Timex should get in on this customization angle, I think they could get away with $100 for a customized quartz
Flava-flav has worn smaller watch faces than that around his neck
philosophical style question: why are watches the one men’s style item that seem to get by having big, sometimes obnoxious logos right smack in the middle of the face?
Although I agree with you (a little), the styling of the face is undeniably similar to what Joe reviewed. Although the Hamilton is larger, it’s designed as a flieger; the tipi at the top and Miyota movement in the Martanero aren’t for everyone.
For an extra $60, you have an ETA 2836-2 movement, sapphire, genuine leather, looks to boot, and a timepiece which has received many compliments. Simply providing an alternative.
I tend to agree with you. It looks sharp to these eyes. If it tells good time then I don’t see why it’s overpriced at roughly $500 considering you can customize it a little bit, and it’s assembled in the US. Are there better deals in watches out there? Sure. But I’m sure you could also spend a lot more for an essentially equivalent watch with a “Swiss” movement that doesn’t tell better time and isn’t more durable. I’m not going to rush out and buy one of these but I don’t understand the piling on.
I don’t understand the piling on either, myself, but I think it’s because that miyota movement is available in much less expensive watches. I like the looks quite a bit, but something about the weight/feel/finish/whatever didn’t get it up to $500 for me, personally. Really like what they’re going after though.
Meh…. So many start-ups out there with so so designs. Might try looking at G. Gerlach instead. They have some nice designs IMO and better priced, plus they have a sense of humor.
http://gerlach.org.pl/?lang=en
That’s exactly why. The Miyota family of movements is found in everything from Invicta Pro Diver’s (mine, $85) to Citizens and Seikos that cost as much as this Martenero.
Why should I spend $400 more for a watch when the differences really come down to new face/hand color changes and a new band? I’m perfectly happy with my Invicta. Might spend $75 for a Shell Cordovan band and would still come out cheaper.
Oh wait, they do.
https://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/accessories/watchesandwatchstraps/PRDOVR~48137/48137.jsp
Right, no, I understand that, but I don’t understand the act of piling on. And to me, honestly, the movement is fine. Sure it’s not crazy expensive/accurate, but I’m not using it to time anything at the LHC either. I think the weight of the watch & the overall finish, while nice, just wasn’t what I was expecting. And yes, I know that some of that has to do with the movement too.
I would believe that we, as Dappered readers, are more value oriented/focused. While I’m in your boat (frankly, it’s a fine watch but I just wouldn’t buy it), I do also understand why many of us just don’t see the appeal of an expensive “cheap” watch.
Oh, I’m pretty familiar with the Dappered readers 🙂 My point is, some of the piling on seemed strange, being that the drawbacks were covered pretty extensively in the post.
Overall I get it Adam, I get it.
yeah but thats jcrew which is overpriced everything
Adam – Seiko produces it’s own movements and doesn’t use Miyota movements FYI. I know some people have been confused about that before, but Seiko only uses it’s own movements.
As you noted, Miyota movements (especially the 9015) are very popular with the makers of micro brands and larger companies like Invicta. Seiko movements (under the SII branding) are also pretty popular (companies like Lum-Tec use SII movements).