Unsolicited advice is the worst. Unless it’s done anonymously over the internet, with the best of intentions… and then maybe it’s okay. Maybe. First we started with the rookies. Today is for those who have been at this for a bit. Finally, we’ll wrap up with advice for those who consider themselves “experts”.
#1. Develop a great relationship with a Good Tailor
Somewhere between beginner and intermediate, we all figure out that having our suits, blazers, shirts, etc… tailored is often (always?) a worthy investment. But always using the faceless tailoring department at a big box store or dry cleaners is sorta like having your hair cut at Supercuts. And no, that’s not a criticism of the talents of the person wielding the scissors. The downfall is having a different person doing the work each time, and never developing a relationship… and thus… good communication, with that person. You want someone you can get to face to face (and garment to garment) with. They’ll see you, get to know you, you’ll get to know them, and you become a team. They’ll come to respect you, and how you feel your clothes should fit.
They’re stunningly similar. Consistency + communication = great results.
#2. Get good at taking care of your stuff
Just like when you were a kid, you gotta put your toys away. Even if you’re on a strict budget, your clothes will look better and last longer if you get proficient at maintaining them. That means getting good at laundry (i.e. reading tags, not shrinking stuff, finding good detergent), ironing, taking care of your shoes, and storing all of it properly. It takes time. Lots of practice. You may sometimes wash a blazer, forgo shoe trees for your best dress shoes, or use crappy hangers for everything. Even sweaters (nooooo!). It’s a process. Respect what you’ve earned to acquire. But don’t forget to get out there and use it. Don’t be Cameron’s Dad from Ferris Bueller.
Oh look. Must be Sunday afternoon.
#3. Limit asking for style critique from strangers on the web
Short version: Trust yourself. Long version: When starting out, the web and its communities can be a big help. But the risk is you end up becoming part of the cycle of cyber-menswear-addicts who spend more time looking at pics of suited-up strangers on the web than going out and living their life. Pictures on the web, usually with poor lighting, shadows galore, and bad angles, don’t give the correct representation of what something looks like in-person anyway. Put a still image within a frame and every little tiny imperfection is going to stand out. Post something that’s 90% awesome on the web, 95% of the viewers will crush that negative 10%, while 99.999% of people in public would never think anything other than “wow, that dude looks sharp“. This seems hypocritical coming from this source (a website) but when in doubt, log off.
Create an organized list of clothes you’re interested in buying, especially when you want to stick to a budget. I call this my “clothing triage.” Organize it by the type of clothing (e.g. outerwear vs. pants vs. shirts) and priority. This will help you stay focused on getting the most bang for your buck and avoid impulse purchases. It’ll also force you to be deliberate about developing your personal style. I like using Evernote to hold the list.
This is the time for curating. You’ve got the basics, nailed the affordable foundation pieces, now curate a few signature, centerpiece items. Whether it be a great pair of shoes or a suit outside the gray/navy palette, invest in quality and know you can pull it out of the closet for years whenever the occasion calls for something a little special.
And I absolutely second Joe’s #3. I have nothing against those who post, but I’ve never understood WIWT threads.
I suspect that it’s impossible to find any service in central London that won’t break the bank.
4. Stop buying stuff simply because you could wear it and it’s on sale. Instead, now that you know what kind of items fit your style and get lots of wear, making a prioritized list of desired purchases. Then, spend your money on those items.
Quality over quantity. By this point, you’re starting to focus in on your personal style. So spend the extra money on stuff that’s made better, looks better, and lasts longer. You’ll save money in the long run and cut down on decision anxiety when you walk into your closet.
Great stuff!
1. Really just starting to develop a personal relationship with my tailor, but she is starting to learn how I want to look. She calls it the “European” style.
2. This is something I have really made some strides in lately. I still have the crapy iron I bought when I was in undergrad 5 years ago, but other than that I am doing well. Got a giant shoe box my AE Eagle Countys came in with rags, brushes, polishes, cleaners etc. Also recently ended up at an IKEA and grabbed a ton of wooden hanger 8 packs for $5 each and completely replaced all of my hangers.
3. I am guilty of not trusting myself from time to time. Really need to work on this one. Something that I realized that I tend to do is to try on stuff when it is delivered with whatever I am wearing when I open the box. Usually it doesn’t matter too much but I was convinced that a BR blazer didn’t fit because I tried it on while wearing sweat pants and thought it was too long. Recently I did the same thing with a pair of shoes. I was convinced they had to go back until I actually put them on with jeans.
WIWT is mostly helpful for newbs, but they can still be fun for anyone else. While most people at your office might recognize that you dress well, very few will be be able to point out why. So it’s nice to show off a little to people that can actually appreciate the finer points of an ensemble. Plus it’s helpful for anyone else out there looking for ideas.
The key is to be able to graduate from that environment and not let it become a crutch. That’s all.
I really think the hardest part (as some have alluded to in previous threads) is finding a good tailor who won’t charge through the nose. I’m near Detroit and I don’t have a clue where to take my clothes. The one good place I found charged me $40 to shorten the sleeves on a linen/cotton Uniqlo blazer. Anyone know of a good tailor in the western ‘burbs?
This is a great idea. I know I’ll never do it… I’m an impulse buyer at heart and fully accept that… but for those that are more responsible than I, this could really help.
Oooh…I didn’t realize it was a 3-part series. I would say I consider myself intermediate, and this may not sound like something a guy would do, but creating a Pinterest board with outfits I like has really helped me hone in the particular styles I like. After I notice a trend in my tastes, I am able to focus in on why that type of outfit works and what I can do to make the look work for me with my particular colors and price range. I guess this may be beginner advice too, but I thought I’d throw it out there. Because if I can help just one person….
Now I’ll make a prediction that tomorrow focuses on the details.
Anyone know a good tailor with decent hours in Chicago? I tend to work late so it’s hard for me to get to a lot of places. That, or at least confirm I’m not getting screwed for what I’ve had done at my current tailor? I went to a tailor on the Northwest side of the city and paid $85 for taking in two blazers at the waist, and lengthening one of my suit pants. The work seems neat, and she even added extra fabric to protect the bottom of the pant legs. I am pretty happy with the work, but as I have no experience with a tailor, I have nothing to compare it to.
My prediction for tomorrow includes not taking it too seriously
On the laundry front – pick up a drying rack. Slower than the dryer, sure, but you don’t run the risk of shrinking/distorting your stuff. And as long as it’s not silk/cashmere or a blazer, you can probably machine wash it.
In the immortal words of Mitch Hedberg: “This shirt is dry clean only. Which means it’s dirty!”
Honestly I was an impulse buyer for quite a while (even early on in college). Then I started having to focus on paying tuition (I got a lower rate at first) and other bills and making a list like this (for everything from cloths, to liqours, and even general payments I had to make) realy helped me. If you simply sit down one day and start making it, chances are you will get sucked in and it won’t even be that troublesome to make
I probably should since I need to start saving for a down payment on a house, but I’m careless by nature. I have a well-funded 401k and all my bills are paid, but that’s about the extent of my shrewdness. I do so love lists and organization, though… and this site has yet to steer me wrong… I think I’ll give it a try and see what happens! Thanks.
Any recommendations for a great tailor in SF or East Bay?
Ledezma Tailors. He’s at 155 N Michigan, Suite 301. Ask for Junior. He is awesome. He does all the tailoring for Trunk Club, but this is his side office. The operation seems a bit shady at first, but as you get to know all the characters you will figure it out.
I think WIWT threads also help you feel comfortable wearing something that you may consider to be “outlandish” or “bold”. A lot times, especially when you’re just starting out, you feel uncomfortable being that one guy in a blazer in a sea of t-shirts. Seeing gents who dress more like you do (or you’d like to) can add to your confidence in what you’re wearing.
suit & tux boutique in san jose. i’ve been going to michael for all my alterations for the past 5 years. money.
Yes. Especially true for shoes.
Junior does all the tailoring for Trunk Club, but trust me, if you’re his private client, you never deal with them. Totally different office. He is a young guy with a great sense of style, and not afraid to disagree with you either if he thinks you’re being crazy.
The other day at work I saw what was probably a recent college grad leaving an interview.He was sharply dressed and put obvious effort into his appearance. I found myself lamenting the business casual purgatory that I assume a good portion of dappered readers inhabit. That said, I’m not going to be the guy wearing a blazer in an office where jeans, a button down shirt, and running shoes constitute proper attire. I Do take it up one notch with good chinos, quality shoes, and an ocbd but a blazer is a bridge too far.
Is that a Tissot? PRC 2000 maybe?
In your opinion, are the prices at Peter Field reasonable? It doesn’t sound too bad based on their website, especially for being in the loop.
Personally, I don’t think he’s charging enough for his expertise. You would be hard pressed to find his quality of work for similar prices anywhere else. Definitely check him out man.
anybody have any recommendations for a tailor in the greenpoint, brooklyn area?
Pinnas and Needles on Lexington St is good and fairly reasonable.