Some questions are better answered publicly since others might be asking the same thing, or, one of you has the perfect answer. If you’ve got a style tip, question, or anything else you’d like to pass along, you can send those in here. If you’d rather your question not be featured in a future mailbag, just go ahead and say so in your email. Feel free to hit the comments with other options for answers to this most recent batch of questions. Top Photo Credit: Tracy O.
Q: In need of Wool Trousers. Maybe?
One of the biggest areas I have skimped on when redoing my wardrobe over the past 8 months has been dress slacks/trousers. But now I’m set to move into a job that’s less business casual, and more straight business. Can you recommend a brand of 4 season wool slacks that are slim fitting for a reasonable price (around $70 or less)? The best pair I found for fit was the JCF wool Bedford pants, but they have since disappeared from their website. – Zach
Short Answer: Try the Macy’s house brand Bar III (above left), UNIQLO (above right), and Bonobos when on sale. Just keep an eye on the ratio of wool to poly if they’re blends.
Long Answer: Most people agree that wool trousers are a must in most men’s wardrobes. But, to play Devil’s Advocate (he seems to favor the suited look) why not wear suits more often? If it’s a workplace where Business casual doesn’t fly, could you wear suits more often, and dress them down as need be? Y’know, wear shirts with more casual patterns (gingham for example) and neckties with texture (cotton, wool, knit)? Jackets just look pretty darn good. That’s not to say that a blazer + trousers doesn’t look sharp too. But when in doubt, wear a jacket. The shirt & tie thing just seems to be the default uniform for many office workers.
Q: Sleek Loafers for the Wide Footed Guy
Do you have any recommendations for shoes (particularly loafers) that come in wide sizing? Despite your warning, I ordered a pair of Abes from Jack Erwin and had to return them as they were a bit too narrow. Can you think of anything complementary to the look of the Abe but comfortable for those with a wider foot? – Justin
Big fan of Jack Erwin, but yes, they do run a little trim. Now, as far as the style goes, you’ll want to keep an eye out for loafers with a longer “vamp”. That’s the front, top part of the shoe that’s parallel to the sole. So you’re on the hunt for a shoe that looks more like a Corvette, and less like a Fiat. Consider the on-sale Allen Edmonds “McGraw” ($247), Nordstrom’s “Ethan” ($175), or Magnanni’s Leo
Q: What’s the difference between “Worsted” and, uh, not worsted?
I have my eyes on the J.Crew Ludlow in navy. Here’s the deal, worsted wool or just Italian wool? They both cost the same, so I was just wondering if there really is a big difference. Is worsted wool better? – Greg
It has to do with the length of the strands and the depth of the fabric. Think about it this way… a poplin dress shirt has a crisp, smooth, almost sharpness to it. Now, an Oxford Cloth shirt is a little deeper & thicker, and doesn’t cut so razor-like visually. Worsted wool has that crisp sharpness to it. Regular (woolen) wool can be a little softer and deeper to the touch. But don’t think that just because something is Flannel (soft & deep, right?), means it can’t be worsted. There are plenty of worsted flannels out there. Confused yet? Here’s a really good, in-depth description of what’s what. Bottom line: Probably go with the worsted.
Q: NBA All Star Style
Did you see Chris Bosh’s outfit that he arrived to the All Star Game in? What’d you think? – Winfield
Did you see James HARDEN Saturday night at the Dunk Contest? Bosh I get. Hyper-trendy tweaks to a pretty standard outfit. Wouldn’t do it myself, but my brain comprehends and in a way appreciates. Harden? I got nothin’.
Q: I want to buy a jean jacket. Should I?
I’ve gotten it in my head that owning one of these is an acceptable idea. What are your thoughts? Also, how, where, and with what does one wear this item? – TD
Why not? Most are pretty affordable, so if it’s an every-so-often piece, it won’t dent the wallet that bad. But if you’re going to use it as your primary lightweight casual outerwear, hold up… Here’s a test: Do you wear jeans at least 4 days a week? If you do, you might want to skip the jean jacket. Denim on denim requires some thought & prep, and if you’re doing it all the time with your outerwear, it might get old fast. Now, if you’re rarely in jeans, go for it. You’ll get good use out of it. Just apply the same tests to your jacket as you would to a pair of denim (darker washes, good fit, etc…) Lastly, if you DO wear jeans at least 5 days a week, but still really like the look & lines of a jean jacket? Consider the Levi’s Trucker in Corduroy instead
Q: Best watch brand before you get to the crazy luxury stuff?
After decades of saying I’d never wear a watch, I’ve found myself getting into them a bit over the past year. It’s also been a rough year in terms of my job, but a lot of hard work has paid off and I’m looking to reward myself. So, what’s the best watch in terms of value, if I’m looking to spend in the mid to high hundreds, maybe a thousand? – Chris
To most of us, that’s a TON of money to wear on one’s wrist. To the greater watch snob appreciating community, that can seem like a small sum. Strange, but true. Fortunately, you’ve got a few tried & true brands in that range. Tissot, Christopher Ward, Victorinox, and a few higher end Seikos all occupy that territory, but it’d be awfully hard to go wrong with Hamilton. Originally an American company, they’re now owned by the Swiss Swatch Group, and many of their watches use the same base movements found in much, much more expensive timepieces (after many tweaks and modifications). They’re durable, make enough different styles to please just about everyone’s tastes, and the attention to both stylistic and construction detail is outstanding for the cost.
Got a question or a style tip? Send them in here. Additional answers to the above questions can go in the comments.
I’m personally a big fan of Tissot for mid-range new watches. You can also find vintage, good-condition Rolexes and Omegas for under $2000 on eBay; Oysters and Seamasters, mostly. Worth considering. Be warned that the time period of those watches had a style for smaller watches than we normally see today. Usually around 35mm give or take a few mm.
Also, be weary of Levi’s trucker jackets. I bought a medium in-store a few years ago that fits me perfectly, then I bought one online in the same size, and the sleeves are far too long for me to wear.
And to the guy looking for loafers, keep an eye on Amazon Warehouse. The majority of the shoes that pop up there are in wider and bigger sizes
I’ll second Tissot and Levi’s irregularities… But I’d separate used Rolex and Omega. Old Seamasters (the kind that don’t look anything like the modern ones) tend to go for much cheaper than old Rolexes, which maintain their value way beyond what makes sense to me…
I’ve been trying to find a mid-range watch also for my next far-in-the-future watch purchase. I’ve settled on Stowa Flieger Baumuster B, but they have other beautiful watches as well (Marine or Antea) if you are looking for more of a dress watch than an aviator watch.
on the denim jacket, i recommend the levi commuter. it’s made for cycling (elastic bands in the shoulders for greater range of motion, water resistant treatment added to the outside, slightly longer tail) but it’s super comfortable for a denim jacket.
i like the dark denim (rigid envy) but it’s difficult to wear because i like wear dark raws. they make it in olive, which i think could work really well too.
Might I suggest Orient Watches? Lot’s of styles to choose from and they’ve gotten high praise here on Dappered. It doesn’t have the brand recognition that Hamilton has, but still great attention to detail, decent automatic movement (yes, that’s right, not quartz) and good build quality, all at a much more wallet friendly price. You could use the savings to also reward yourself with an additional luxury item. I think it ultimately depends on what kind of watch person you are. Are you more into finding a good watch in terms of mechanics, build, etc.? Or, are you more into owning a good watch in terms of brand candy (not to say that Hamilton doesn’t have good build quality)? http://orientwatchusa.com/
I second the Orient suggestion. I just received the Bambino with the blue dials for Valentine’s day and could not be happier. I’ts beautiful and solid. Match that with the manistee belt from AE (another present) and you’re set!
i dunno… james harden looks pretty standard for new orleans.
I’m all for the Orient’s quality and style, i just wish they would give the option of a sapphire crystal. I can’t stand buying a new watch and getting the crystal scratched up in a few days.
On another note, Steinhart watches are very popular on the watch forums, and are excellent quality. Check them out, I’m very happy with mine.
On wide feet: I wear a 10.5 3E/4E, so I know something about them. Allen-Edmonds is great, and makes the most comfortable non-athletic shoes I own (probably a tie between my McTavishes and my Long Branches), but there are some other brands making decent shoes for wide feet. Loafers are difficult, though, and sleek is another thing entirely. Frankly — and I hate to say it — if you’re wide enough to need an actual wide size, you probably want to skip the super-sleek shoes. They just don’t work quite right. I love my McTavishes, for instance, but they just don’t look quiiiiiite right in a 3E width. It takes a bit to notice that there’s something off, but compared to their D-width brethren, they’re just not as nice. (But I’ll be damned if that “narrow” 5-last fit isn’t actually the perfect thing for my particular brand of wide feet — wide at the toe, pretty normal at the heel — because of the elongation.)
I think your only option for super-sleek with a wide width is to go bespoke, and that’s just way too much money for most of us, especially here at Dappered.
But, then, maybe someone else with wide foot experience can chime in and say otherwise. This is one time I’d love to be proven wrong.
I’m all for having an Orient or two in your collection (I’m wearing my original Bambino today), and they are a great value. However, they are not on the same level as a CW or Hamilton. I’d also venture to say those brands would retain value better, if that’s a concern.
One suggestion is to check out Longines watches. Also part of the Swatch Group, these watches are often worn by villains in Bond films. I personally like the white face/black dial Hydroconquest. These would be at the top of his budget, but you should be able to get some of their automatics (like the one mentioned above) for $1,000 with some negotiating.
I love these Pointer Brand chore coats as an alternative to the denim trucker jacket. I have one in indigo denim and just ordered the duck brown yesterday since it was on sale. Even better, they are made in the USA in Bristol, TN. The collar was a bit large, so I had mine altered to not be so Boogie Nights, and it’s perfect now.
https://www.pointerbrand.com/index.php/jackets-coats/chore-coats.html
I love you, James Harden.
On average, yes, but I have seen quite a few 1960s Oyster/date Precisions going for under $2000. They’re manual wind, and I’ve been told repair/parts are not easy to come by, but the option is there. You are right for the most part, however.
I generally like orient watches but they are not COSC rated, customer service sucks and finding a repair shop (I have a local guy thank god) are few and far between. I love Omega, Rolex, vintage Longines and Hamilton and my personal vintage pick Waltham. These mid tier watches current hamilton tissot Longines do not hold value like the higher tier and hell my vintage rolex and omega pieces have gone up in value considerably.
Re: Bosh, I do not understand buttoning the top button without a tie. It looks so half-assed. Like you’re trying to be formal, but forgot the tie.
I wear jeans a lot, and own the jacket…and I can NOT pull off the double-denim look.
Tom Hardy does it, Adam Levine has done it (both of them with an untucked shirt to help break up the blues), Blake Shelton does it, but there I something I just can’t make work for for me. Part of the reason I like spring and summer so much is my really crappy outerwear collection.
I don’t think I’d ever do it, either, but apparently it’s getting more popular. I watch the TV show Elementary and Sherlock is commonly dressed in a sport coat and button up shirt with the top button buttoned. I’ve seen it more frequently recently.
I’ve noticed that on Elementary. I haven’t seen the show, but I assume the shirt was a character choice to make him look dorky or out of touch.
I agree with BigBayesian, for a vintage Rolex in good working and aesthetic condition you’re probably looking at spending $2,000-4,000, or even more for desirable models like GMT Masters or Subs. For that kind of money I would rather get a new or gently used Speedmaster.
I just can’t see spending that much on a watch. I think about how I would feel walking around with $1000 in cash in my hand. I’d be crapping myself. Now put that $1000 on your wrist. Scary.
For those who prefer very traditional designs (though usually in larger case sizes), Frederique Constant is a good brand to look at in terms of “accessible luxury” watches. Most of their watches retail at well over $1,000, particularly those with their in-house movements. But a number of them are available under $1k on the grey market. Their (quartz) Business Timer model is currently $500 at Jomashop, and it’s about as close to a Patek 5970 as I’m ever likely to get in my lifetime:
http://www.frederique-constant.com/uploads/cache/450×450/0586eb6b26aa3286f93e8a9adb78347f.jpg
http://www.jomashop.com/frederique-constant-watch-fc-270sw4p6.html
For those who prefer very traditional designs (though usually in larger case sizes), Frederique Constant is a good brand to look at in terms of “accessible luxury” watches. Most of their watches retail at well over $1,000, particularly those with their in-house movements. But a number of them are available under $1k on the grey market. Their (quartz) Business Timer model is currently $500 at Jomashop, and it’s about as close to a Patek 5970 as I’m ever likely to get in my lifetime:
http://www.frederique-constant.com/uploads/cache/450×450/0586eb6b26aa3286f93e8a9adb78347f.jpg
It’s a hipster affectation that’s coming more and more into the mainstream. I’m not a fan but there are evidently a lot of people who are.
Re: Bosh- what a great way to draw attention to the fact that your neck is 3 feet long and you don’t have a chin. If you were trying to accentuate that, you nailed it.
Re: Harden- I assume that shirt was made by Denise Huxtable.
I’ve got a Marine Automatic, and I love it. I think it’s the epitome of a classic-looking watch. http://www.stowa.de/cosmoshop/pix/a/z/marineautdatum/g/MA-A10-poliert-mass-Boden-2.jpg
I’ve been wearing Orient for years now, and they’ve never disappointed especially in value in terms of price–they’ve got this watch for $108 off right now (http://orientwatchusa.com/fer27009b, use code sonata) that comes with date and exhibition case back.
But I do agree with Joe about Tissot and Hamilton–whenever a friend is asking for a watch recommendation in the low or under $1000s, they’re the brands I jump to first. You get the quality and brand name recognition (which is a huge plus for those who don’t know a whole lot about watches).
I have always disliked the invisible tie look. Some people manage to pull it off (not Bosh), but those same people would probably look better wearing their outfits with a tie.
I have always disliked the invisible tie look. Some people manage to pull it off (not Bosh), but those same people would probably look better wearing their outfits with a tie.
As far as wool trousers go, I think banana republic is great for them. Always wait for the 40% off sale and it will fall into the $60 range. Good quality as well, just be aware of fit. Even within each type (tailored slim fit (medium), modern slim fit (slimmest)) the fit can be different. I’ve had to return about 4 pairs, but kept 4. As far as wearing suits more…for someone that wears dress pants as often as I do, this will cause the pants to wear through WAY too fast.
What’s the overall consensus on ivory/off-white denim jackets? I bought one on a whim from Gap and now I’m wondering what the heck I was thinking. I can’t seem to get it to match with anything…
question for the watch snobs. Vintage rolexes Im thinking a datejust 60s and 70s seem to go for a decent price. How expesnive is upkeep on them and how fragile are they? Thanks if anyone has any info to add to this.
loafers make me look priggish. I feel like I can’t pull them off in my mid-twenties. Maybe in 15 years I’ll will give them a serious try
Have you tried some dark brown chinos?
I love some of the 70s/60s rolexes. Datejust oysters etc…How do those watches hold up durability wise and how much does it cost to repair maintain them? Just curious at the hidden cost of owning one.
Honestly the Rolex 1565 and 1575 movements are very robust. I have a 1601 and 1600 reference. They are both very robust and really basic. Any competent watch shop can fix a vintage rolex. Easy to get parts, not too complex.
to avoid that 80’s look, when wearing a jean jacket, the slimmer the better.
I have an early 50s Rolex that the factory will not service. They shipped it right back to me, suggested I contact an independent restorer and wished me good luck.
I bought a washed OD Carhartt jean jacket from Sierra Trading Post on the basis of a recommendation here. Looks great on me, an older, fairly slim bald guy. Has extra buttons on the waistband to nip it in if you need it (which I do).
If you like generally pilot-y or military-looking watches, check out the Zeno-Watch Basel line. Most have ETA movements, and many of those movements are also used in way more expensive better-known brands.
Rolex has a rather extensive maintenance schedule they would be very happy for you to keep. Personally, for my dollar, there are better watches out there. Now if you want to buy one purely for investment sake? You will probably make some money in the long run.
If you feel like firing away with a few names I wouldn’t mind doing some research. I’m just not a rich guy and some of those vintage 70s rolexes look pretty cool and blend well in a lot of situations. Just concerned about the longterm upkeep.
Not sure how I missed your reply. Anyway, your budget massively affects what you can get into. And Rolex varies WILDLY based on materials. Vintage Datejust can be anywhere from $1500-7000 based on a quick search I just ran. What are you looking to spend?
Definitely on the low end. I just happen to like the look of those datejusts. I was looking at some in the 1500 to 2 range.
If you would like to get something reasonably refined like a Datejust, I’d look into offerings from Hamilton and Longines. Personal favorite near that price point would be a Longines Legend Diver.
Thanks for the heads up some of those Longines are really nice.