GAP 1969 Lived in Washed Slim Fit Chinos – $12.99 – $38.97 w/ GAPWOW
A story about a an almost perfect pair of pants… and then a question.
Dropped into a GAP brick and mortar last week and they were running a “Take an additional 40% off already reduced merchandise ” promotion. After a summer of BBQs, bike chain grease, and muddy dog paws, the few pairs of lighter colored pants hanging in the closet had seen some better days. So I was on the lookout… and I spotted these:
Lived in = Feels like they’ve been washed and softened up over a year or two.
They were hanging on the sale rack. I wandered over and felt up the fabric. Ridiculously soft, and a nice mid to lightweight all cotton chino. Broken in too. Perfect for slow rides around town or hanging on the back porch. There was a ton of sizes and a few colors to choose from. The price tag was something like twenty bucks. So, twelve dollars after the in-store discount?!? I grabbed my usual 32X30 and hit the fitting room.
The taper is most noticeable in the profile shot. They felt even tighter in person
They were prefect, except from the knee down I could barely get em’ over my calves. From the knee up they were a gift from Los dioses de los pantalones. Unbelievable. And the price was wildly good. But the taper was SO aggressive, that it felt like I was wearing socks from ankle to ACL.
Plus, there was something visually unbalanced about what was looking back at me in the mirror. From ass up there was some visual bulk due to my body type and the clothes there skimming, but not clinging. From the knees up the pants didn’t cling. There was just enough movement. Not so on the lower part. It just looked… off.
And where had I seen that silhouette before?
Oh. That’s where.
Would anyone on the street notice? Doubtful. Hell, plenty of you fellas are pro-taper, and that’s understandable. But at a certain waist to inseam ratio, does an aggressive taper like this become kinda goofy looking? Is it safer to stick to straight fits? Is the skinny from the knee down taper a trend whose time has come? Leave it all below.
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I don’t mind a slight taper, but I’m not personally a fan of slim or skinny pants.
(ps: The link says straight fit, but they’re slim)
I’m a cyclist (5’8″, 170 lbs, most of it is in my thighs and calves), and had a similar encounter with the sale rack at J. Crew for a pair of their 484 fit chinos in an avocado-looking color. The inseam was too long, but I figured I’d roll ’em… and for $11, I didn’t mind giving them a go. This is mostly just a cautionary tale for anyone unfamiliar with the 484 fit: super skinny legs, or fans of super skinny pantalones, you’ll be right fine… but any girth to your leg, you’ll want to think twice.
I actually bought the same light blue Oxleys as you and had a similar issue (even in the Slim-Straight). I recently got the oxleys tapered, and have been all the happier for it. I just took it to my local seamstress and she was able to do it fairly easily without ruining the cloth which had been my concern.
My suggestion would be to (obviously) have her pin the Oxleys with you wearing them, and to decide on how much of a taper you want – i brought a pair of boat shoes that I typically like to wear to use as a measure.
Strange, I have those in navy and love them! Don’t believe the taper was that strong though. We have a very similar body/leg shape based on other posts so this is strange.
That said, I picked up two pair of chinos from Club Monaco the other week. I’ve never shopped there previously, but their Davis pant is my new favorite fit. Perfectly tailored for my leg shape. A little pricey at $69, but they had some on sale for around $40.
The only pair of pants I wish were made in a larger style are the Levis Commuter. They’re based on the 511 which feel like I’m wearing spandex pants they’re so friggin tight!
Based on the fact that tapering has a slimming effect. Would tapering be more suitable for gents with relatively long or short legs? (legs length as compared to upper body length).
A little taper is good. Dockers Alpha Khakis are not.
On the Levi’s scale 513s are as tapered as I’m willing to go, 514s look perfectly good too especially with boots. Not a fan of the skinny jeans look that’s really popular these days.
This! As much as I want to like those pants, I just can’t.
For me, it depends on the style of pants. I like jeans and 5-pocket chinos with more taper. Dress pants get less taper. That said, I usually taper suit pants more than odd trousers/dress pants.
Here’s what I do. Get the longest pair they have and just hem it. The taper is gradual, so it’ll be a bit wider since the new leg opening will be a bit above the ankle. I’ve done it with a few pairs of chinos and jeans and it actually works very well.
I left tapered legs behind in the late 80s when I was a teen. Not bringing it back…nor the over-sized shirts that were worn with them. The hipsters can happily enjoy them now. I like straight-leg pants & jeans. Wear what you feel comfortable & confident in. Doesn’t bother me what anyone else wants to wear.
I had the same pause when I ran across a linen SuitSupply suit at my local consignment shop. Everything was perfect (or at least would be after some adjustment) and the price couldn’t be beat EXCEPT that the pants were just too tapered.
Has anyone had any luck with getting pants legs widened?
Re: Dockers Alpha, I have to respectfully disagree; they’re the only pair of chinos/khakis in my closet that I like the fit of enough to wear every day. They won’t be for everyone, but I think more guys should at least try a pair on before dismissing them outright.
I’ve actually tried this myself twice even though I have no real sewing experience beyond hemming and taking in slacks. First one worked out great and the second one… not so much.
I’d say if all you want is a taper, your seamstress should be up to it. If you want the legs overall slimmer, spring for your tailor since that’s more of a reconstruction.
Aggressive tapering looks feminine. Not a great look. Case in point: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxK_1JsO6k8
I’ve definitely tried them on and they fit like skinny jeans on me. I wish they were more straight cut, because they’re affordable, decent quality, and are available in a lot of colours.
You can’t widen a pant leg if there’s no material there.
Big fan of the urban slim and 484 from JCrew. Not sure how those compare with gap.
I also dig 513s and 514s. 514s are my go-tos. My favorite is a pair of 527s I have. Slim through the leg but it’s a bootcut.
Im wearing a pair of Alpha Khakis right now here at work. I swear by them and have 3 pairs (so far). They are not for everyone but then again what item of clothing really is? Im 6’0″ 170 athletic build and the 32×32 fits me perfectly.
I think they’re ok, but if you see any Ewoks, run!
Tapered legs look great if you want to show off some sock via a shorter inseam, which is popular now. The same cannot be said for straight leg pants, which appears goofy in this look. The problem for me is that I have muscular calves, so most tapered pants end up too tight. The gap lived in slims, dockers alphas, and LE canvas 608s are all too tight. If anyone had recommendations for slim tapered pants that aren’t too tight, I’m all ears.
I just bought some Levi’s 511 Commuter jeans. They are about the same overall tightness on me as Alpha Khakis. However, they have a bit of stretch in them that makes them feel significantly more comfortable.
Joe, to me, those look okay on you. I’m a pretty big guy (6’1″ 210, athletic build but not cut) and wear 511s or 513s. Anything wider at the ankle and I feel like I’m wearing sails. I’m sure some would say they’re too tapered, but I like the clean silouette. I also get my suit pants slightly tapered. However, and this is true for everyone across the board, if you’re not comfortable with a fit, style, or look, then go somewhere else, regardless of outside opinion. As we all know by now, confidence is crucial to looking your best.
J. Crew 484/Levi’s 511 fo’ life!
For the taller muscular build, the alpha khaki is not the way to go. I’ve got muscular thighs and calfs from being an avid hockey player for 12 years and I almost busted the seam trying to fit the over my calfs!
I’ve found that for the athletic to larger build kind if guy(us guys who are working on getting that “daddy weight” off) that Jcrews urban slim is about as slim as you want to go. From a side profile perspective, you want to make sure that either your shirt is trim when tucked in, or that you make sure to wear a blazer. Otherwise, tons of spillover will definitely make you appear much much larger on the top heavy side.
Another option is moving to the Bowery pant if you don’t mind the dressed up look. The regular Bowery is slimmed up just a hair from the classic chinos, so it’s a good Inbetween if your not ready to slim things up a bit.
You’ve got to remember that some of us don’t have big legs. I’m not a small guy by any stretch of the imagination (6’4, 235 lbs, 46 chest and 38 waist), but Gap (and most other) straight leg’s fit more like Jnco promo photos than 501’s. So when I pull on a pair of basically any “slim straight” model, NOW I’m looking more like I’m in 501 territory. Those gap lived in slims fit me great. I think you’ve just got to come from a place of understanding that not only does the brand have customers that prefer different silhouettes, but that have customers with different body types as well.
Depends on the pant itself actually. Some pants have a little bit of fabric left inside to be let out just a hair. You wouldn’t be able to go from skinny to straight leg, but at least make it a bit more comfortable for you. Take a picture of inside of the pant and consult with your tailor.
Try the urban slims from jcrew and jcrew factory. They’re a good fit for guys that have a bit more meat on the legs. 484’s would probably be a bit too tapered depending on your upper body build.
^ This exactly. We share similar proportions, my friend. I’m a touch smaller, but like you I’m bigger above the waist than below. My wife tells me women work hard for legs like mine. Which maybe isn’t a compliment.
I’m wearing this exact pair of pants today. I like the taper, but to me, they’re actually a bit tight above the knee.
Thanks for the feedback. I honestly wasn’t asking for a take on these pants in particular, but on the hyper-tapered trend in general.
But too tapered for me. Seriously felt like I was wearing socks.
When it comes to fashion trends, who the heck knows what will last or for how long? Classic brands, cuts, and materials. Wear what you like. Own it. I’d say your sense of your own style is pretty on point.
I have to say the JCP Ultimate Khaki have the perfect amount of taper (for me). I have skinny legs but I feel I still have plenty of room and they’re no where close to H&M nuthugging pants
I’m voting for a little taper, but the reality is that a little taper IS tight to my legs. Levi’s 513s fit on me like 510s probably do on some of you. 18″ calves will do that to a guy.
Likewise! Have you found any good brands that fit big calves that aren’t huge in the thigh?
Awesome post image
Your seamstress should be able to do this just fine. This is exactly the kind of basic adjustment that you’re supposed to be taking to her.
I wore pegged 501s in the 80s, so they were almost the opposite – way too tight up top and looser in the leg.
The picture of Joe looks like he’s wearing Jodhpurs.
I have a pair each of Alpha Khakis and 511s, and I can’t bring myself to wear them very often. The 511s, at least, fit perfectly above the knee, but both ride up as I move and get caught on the top of my boot.
Ideal for me are the Dockers D1s and Levi’s 514, both of which are difficult to find in my size (30*34). I can also do 501s but they are a bit high waisted for my tastes.
“They were prefect, except from the knee down I could barely get em’ over my calves.”
Then they weren’t perfect for you, it really is that simple. I wear very tapered jeans ( Levi 510’s are my go-to) but I think if I posted pictures of them you’d think they were simply slim cut, not “skinny”. Those gustin straight cuts you posted the other day seemed to fit you perfectly, straight cuts just work well for you. I don’t know why dudes with bigger thighs/calves get high and mighty (not you Joe, in comes up in clothing forums a lot) that they don’t “get” really slim cuts. There’s nothing to ‘get’, they don’t fit big thighs very well, they fit smaller thighs/calves well, so don’t wear them if they don’t fit.
As an aside, as much as I think it’s important to look at the past to see how changes in clothing fit and styles turned out, at the same time I don’t see the point in worrying how I’ll look ten years from now. I’d like to enjoy how I look today.
I haven’t measured my calves lately but my favorite are N&F Weird Guys (warning: boutique denim) They’re tapered enough to have some structure and shape below the knee but don’t look painted on by a long shot. Supposedly Urban Outfitters’ Unbranded denim has a similar/same cut but I’m not familiar with their offerings.
I personally think the tapering on F&O Newport chinos (I have them in the taupe and Royal Blue) are pretty spot on, Slim, but not skinny. (Though I will admit I can do either and I tend to lean towards more slimmer fitting anything– 6’0, 165 Athletic build.)
The only thing I would mention is that the sizing can be a bit off, I ordered 32×32 and I probably could have sized down to 30 and been fine.
I personally think it doesn’t matter unless your upper torso is comically longer than your legs of course. I really think it has more to do with frame or body size, I being a slender guy tend to wear slim anything, why? Because I dont like looking like an 11 year old boy wearing grown up clothes.
Those Gap lived in slims always feel more tapered and slim than they actually are. Once you wear them for a half hour they relax and fit like a dream. I have four pairs of these (khaki, red, blue, and olive) and they are go-tos for me both during the workweek and on the weekend.
What about the reverse where the person is bottom heavy (upper torso is shorter than it should be)?
I feel like it would still apply in that as long as your frame as a whole isnt you know oddly disproportionate (i.e. say your your waist and legs are MUCH wider than your shoulders) that’s when I think it would get harder to wear something tapered or slim and have a top to match, but other than that I feel like you’d be fine, no way to tell until you try right?
I love me some slim but I’ve been irritated with pants that have looser thighs but clingy calves. Can’t a guy just have a slim straight from the waist down?
I keep hoping to find the perfect trousers in these comments sections, but still no joy. Epaulet are still the best i own but the rise is a bit too short an the tapper a bit too drastic for the premium price tag.
I actually prefer the made in USA Detroit dickies 874 i bought a few years ago, but once again they are not being made and the fabric was kinda bad.
My favorite chinos have a little taper, but if I can’t lift the bottoms up my calf high enough to adjust my socks, then NO
Have you tried on another pair of the same pant and still noticed the problem? It could be a quality control issue which is something I’ve run into several times at Gap. I’ll find an item i really like (eg their tailored, slim-fit khakis or the pants above) and stock up on a few colors of the same size and style only to get home and find they each fit slightly differently. I’ve noticed this with shorts as well as pants so I make sure to try on every pair before I buy just to make sure that exact pair fits correctly.