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The Loafer Matrix

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Laces?  We don’t need no stinkin’ laces.  Now waitaminute… are laces out?  Never.  But with all of the attention loafers have been getting lately, some of us may start letting our lace-ups take a hiatus   As far as how dressy or casual a loafer can be, a lot of it has to do with what kind of leather it’s made out of (smooth = dressy), the shape of the shoe (sleek = dressy), and the shoes details (straps, buckles, etc…), so some types can have a huge range.  Generalized versions of many styles are shown below with how casual they lean, and what age group seems to usually wear them. 

 

Dappereds Loafer Matrix
 

From Top Left:
  • Espadrilles: Soludos for J. Crew – $36.00  Like underwear for your feet.  Lightweight fabric uppers with rope like soles.  Big this year in the states but you’ve got to wonder if they’ll stick?
  • Boat Shoes: Sebago Docksides – $80.00 w/ MARSHOES  Favored by both the older and younger set, but seems to be the default summer footwear for plenty of younger guys who aren’t in flip flops.
  • Driving Mocs:  Cole Haan Air Grant Driver – $148.00  Low profile and distinguished by their grippy sole that extends up the back of the heel.  Lots of different style variations can be seen with these.  Plain vamps, penny straps like the Air Grant, or even laced boat-shoe inspired tops.  Read Paul’s tribute here.
  • Venetian Loafers:  Johnston & Murphy Creswell – $150.00  Honestly, these could probably be laid right on top of the penny loafers.  Only reason why they get a slight nudge to the younger side is that some guys see penny loafers as something their Dad’s and Grandpa’s wore, so, they might favor the plain vamp of the Venetian.
  • Penny Loafers:  Allen Edmonads McGraw – $247.00 ($245)  Dead center.  Want a cheaper pair similar to the McGraw?  Try the Florsheim Cable, which drops to $144 w/ FLSAVE20.
  • Kiltie Loafers:  Bass Layton – $129.00  Some fashion magazines have hinted at these coming back into style.  Not quite sure on that one.  Usually found on bulkier shoes with shorter vamps.  Kinda like a Trans-Am mixed with a Lincoln Town Car.
  • Bit Loafers: Bruno Magli Tallo – $244 – $333   Boy these can go wrong in a hurry.  And therefor, less expensive versions can often look dreadful.  Even the high end bit loafers won’t please all, with plenty of guys thinking they’ve got way too much flash.  Literally.  Not a conservative style.
  • Tassel Loafers:  J&M Melton Tassel – $175.00  Many just won’t go near them, especially if they’re on the younger side of age 40.  Dangling bits up front might remind some of the “mail plane” scene from Three Amigos.  Want to young this style up?  Try a pair in suede and wear with a summer suit.  Or, look for a sleeker profile, like these Portuguese made tassel loafers sold through STP and going for $130.77 w/ the code ALMARCH3.
  • Double Monk Strap: Mercanti Fiorentini Double Monk – $149.95  Hang on for a sale and you can usually get these for around $120 or under.  Made in Italy.  Soles are glued, but they’re solid for the price.
  • Single Monk Strap: Allen Edmonds Franciscan – $325.00  One less buckle so usually a little more subtle.  These though, damn.  A new arrival with lots of bells and whistles. Half brogue, a sleek buckle, and so far available in black or the light walnut.  Crossing fingers for the bourbon color.
  • Those White Socks:  Well, when you reach a certain age, you can do almost whatever you want.

 Leave your thoughts on any additional styles, or, adjustments to the matrix in the comments section below

Comments

  1. I can’t wait to reach the “white sock” age. I have so many exciting
    plans to raise hell in my future nursing home.

  2. “White Sock” + “Raise hell in future nursing home” = Red Hot Chili Peppers the octogenarian years?

  3. Pretty spot on, though personally I’m not on board with the monk strap thing at any age, especially with medallions/broguing. Makes me think of pilgrams or hobbits. I had a boss a couple of years back that was older (early-mid 50s) and he wore Ferragamo bit loafers and I thought they looked good on him, but like Joe said the cheap ones definitely look like crap. I had a pair of Allen Edmonds Firenze bit loafers (definitely not cheap) and I work ‘em probably like 10 times before I sold them off. Just didn’t work for me and kinda turned me off to loafers for a while.

    My faith has been restored though as I just scored a couple gems in the most recent AE Factory Seconds 2 for $250 sale. I got a pair of the Walnut Burnished McGraw (pictured smack dab in the middle) and a pair of Shell Cordovan Kenwoods (wearing today actually) and I think both of these are homeruns. I’d place the Kenwoods in the middle of casual/dress, but slightly older looking than the McGraw because of the sawtooth detailing. I don’t think I’ll ever be old enough for kilties and tassels though, haha.

  5. Venetian loafers, especially in black, scream “I sell cell phones and I probably have one in a holster on my belt right now. You know, right below my billowing dress shirt that is tucked into the cheapest-looking pair of black pants imaginable.” They’re talkative, ugly shoes.

    I also question whether monk straps can be considered loafers. If they need to be fastened they’re not loafers.

  6. For the the sake of argument–moc toes of any sort are hideous and unacceptable in any circumstances. This includes boat shoes.

  9. I bought a pair of AE Veronas last year. Haters going to hate, but I get more compliments in these than any of my other shoes.

    I have also switched from boat shoes to driving mocs for summer casual. I just wanted something a bit different this year.

  12. Those Venetians on the graph probably aren’t the best example, although they do seem to look like the most “average” verision of all Venetian looks. While some are just, not attractive, I think a super slimmed down version can look great with linen. Thinkin’ something along the lines of the now toast Positano seen halfway down the page over here:

    http://dappered.com/2013/02/allen-edmonds-soles4souls-donate-old-save-35-on-new-2/

    Again, just about any style can be unattractive, but just about any style can be made to be attractive and worn well.

  13. This is a fantastic article. Very creative use of visual effects, spot on commentary, and some great options. Nicely done, Joe!

  18. I’ve got a pair of the Veronas. They’re my favorite shoes. Comfortable and great looking.

  19. So far, lots of thumbs down and sarcasm, but no counter argument. They’re chunky, look daft with the upturned lip, and if you truly need a complete rubber soul for certain functional circumstances, there are better options on the market.

  20. I’m glad you put the tassels so strongly in ‘Old Man’ country…GQ has been all about them lately and I just don’t get it, haha. Great article though. I’ve been all about the loafers lately, and I highly recommend Tods. They are pretty pricey new, but I found a (really) good looking pair of their penny loafers on eBay for only $50. Score.

  21. I love the way boat shoes, camp mocs, etc look. I also love the way boobs look. I can’t tell you why I like boat shoes and boobs, but I do. On the other hand, some guys are repulsed by boobs and boat shoes. There again, I don’t know why: a fact that’s just fine with me.

  23. Shell Cordovan Kenwoods…sigh. My tan saddle Kenwoods are probably my favorite shoes, and I can say without question they are more comfortable than anything I own, running shoes included. I can only imagine how wonderful the Cordovans will look in a few years once they have a nice patina to them.

  24. Not an argument. If this were a college essay, you’d fail. Make an argument. An argument is, for example–moc toes may or may not be attractive, but they’re a time-honored aspect of men’s clothing, and as such are now an inextricable part of men’s fashion. Now, that’s not really a strong argument, but it’s actually an argument.

  26. I cannot see a loafer without thinking of my 7th grade English teacher in nipple high polyester pants. He constantly jingled his keys in his pocket which looked for all the world like he was doing something obscene. Automatic “NO”!

    I don’t think of boat shoes as loafers, monk straps either.

  27. Gather round kids, ur in fer a reel treat: Dr. Benji is gonna teach us how to makes the argumentses! I ken almozt taste the A’s on my paperses!
    .
    All joking aside Doc, you were right, this is “not an argument”. We could make it into one, but after some inevitable flaming and rudeness, we’d eventually end up right where I put us with my previous post, to wit, “different strokes for different folks”.
    .
    It sounds to me like what you really want is to practice your debate skills —> http://lmgtfy.com/?q=debate+clubs

  28. Why argue? Can one really argue with another’s personal style and taste? Personally, I like the look of moc toes, so do many others. Why further type an essay to convince you of all people? “If this were hong kong, you’d already be dead.”

  29. I’m pretty jazzed. They are my first cordovan shoes. They are more pliable than I would have imagined out of the box, so they are ever so slightly loose for what I expect out of new leather shoes (I got them in my true size) and I fear it might loosen the more I wear them, but at the price I didn’t want to return them and they didn’t have them available in any sizes close to mine. At 2 for $250 I actually felt obligated to get them, especially considering the shell Kenwoods are $595 retail. I can always use like a heel grip or a tongue pad or something if they get too loose.

  31. Just trying to figure where I fit in. I’m 44 and just bought a pair of Venetian driving mocs because 1. they were cheap on clearance and 2. they are very comfortable and I like the style. However, I have a pair of kiltie tassel loafers that I bought, probably about 10 years ago (before I knew any better), that I haven’t worn for years. Been thinking about selling them, but, maybe now I’m of age to wear them. Hmm…

  32. I always thought of mocs and boat shoes in same category, then loafers in an entirely different category. Loafers as being the penny, tassle, venetian, etc… then I see the Monk as a separate category as well. Monks being simply an alternative to laces, wheras the loafers are of a “slip-on” style. I stopped liking this slip-on category due to what I feel is an excessive view of the wearer’s socks.
    Interesting that they all fall into the same category.

  33. I always thought of mocs and boat shoes in same category, then loafers in an entirely different category. Loafers as being the penny, tassle, venetian, etc… then I see the Monk as a separate category as well. Monks being simply an alternative to laces, wheras the loafers are of a “slip-on” style. I stopped liking this slip-on category due to what I feel is an excessive view of the wearer’s socks.
    Interesting that they all fall into the same category.

  34. Joe, as an additional idea to this Matrix, I would like to see the same age/dress metrics with alternatives at each level. Would be interesting to see where you would chart dressed up cap toes with the monk straps or where an unstructured wingtip might relate to a penny loafer.
    Also, for me it would be pretty cool if you were able to stick with one or two manufacturers. I would suggest Allen Edmonds as one to be included.

  36. Double monk and single monk without medallions are the only “loafers” I can get in to, everything else just seems to look “wrong” on me.

  40. So it looks like the AE McGraws are a closeout style…. Any idea of what style will replace them. I looked at the Lincoln Park but they are a more casual loafer.

  42. No, see, that’s the advantage of argumentation–you present evidence, and attempt to persuade them. Not flame them.

  43. I don’t know what argument is being made, all I see is opinion. But, I sure love me up some boobs. I just wanted to be on the record for that, in case Bespoke Post kicks the Box of Awesome into hi gear next month or something.

  44. As someone who sells shoes, this post is just about as good as it gets. You never cease to be on point, Joe!

  48. Okay, so to counter your original argument: moc toes of many sorts are aesthetically pleasing and totally acceptable in many circumstances. This includes, but is not limited to, boat shoes, Alden Indy boots, beefroll penny loafers, and many (most?) work boots.

  50. If you’re going for beach-casual sans flip flops, I’d take these over a tattered pair of those ubiquitous red or navy Tom’s or a pair of (cringe) Sanuks any day.

  51. I’m sure somewhere there’s a guy that can pull them off, but they’ve looked uber-feminine on every dude I’ve ever seen rocking them.
    Not hating on them, though, as that’s just IMO.

  52. I, for one, will sympathize with Benji. A lot of moc toes look kind of clunky and, for me, remind me of the “boaty” southern frat uniform. That is, unless you’re on a boat. I think it can work, especially if the stitching is on the more minimal side (like, say, a driver), but I never understood the Alden Indy thing. I mean, shiny Cordovan, with a hand-stitched moc toe? Seems like a contradiction.

    And I know full well I’m probably in a minority here… there are plenty of 1000 page SF threads with people gushing over cordovan Indies.

  57. i guarronteeee you will get into a brawl with a hobbit if you leave the house rocking those Quodys…

  59. Haha, fine I guess. I like em, I love my ll bean ranger mocs too, plenty of compliments. As a wise song once said, “Now, the world don’t move to the beat of just one drum, What might be right for you, may not be right for some. “

  61. Personally, I prefer Sperrys, the leather feels better and they’re a little more comfortable. Other opinions may vary.

  66. There should also be all white New Balance walking shoes (velcro?) somewhere on the old man side.

  67. I know this site is in love with AE shoes… but I’ll ask anyway. Are the McGraws worth it? They look exactly like the shoe that I need right now (to replace an old pair of square toe Cole Haan venetians that I’ve beat up) but it’s hard for me to swallow spending that type of cash. I know Joe linked those Florsheims… but I’m swayed by the rave reviews. Come on guys, push me one way or the other

  69. they look great but the real look will depend on the pants you wear.. I like this type of shoe with slim pants that are slightly short.. I have a pair very similar but they look awful with my suit and dress pants than have traditional fit and length but awesome with my skinny jeans (like Levis 511) and chinos