Dappered

Affordable Men's Style

Watchbands & straps 101

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Not buying a watch because you don’t like the band is like not buying a house because you don’t like the paint on the walls.  Both situations are relatively easy to change and the new-look to cost ratio is heavily in your favor.  Like those paint swatches at Home Depot, there’s a seemingly endless variety of watch bands out there.  Most of which are affordable enough that you won’t feel like you’re shoveling cash down a money pit.

Styling (from left – right above)

Croc Embossed – Probably the dressiest of the bunch.  Standard leather that has had a pattern stamped on it to make it look more like immensely expensive crocodile leather.  Unlike most other “faked” things in men’s style, this crock-like-look is widely accepted.

Rally – Large holes that start near the lugs which are intended to make the strap more breathable.  Y’know, so when you’re slicing through those hairpin turns on mountain roads your wrists don’t get too sweaty.  Right.

Double Ridge – Maybe the most underrated style out there.  Two esker-like ridges of raised padding that can subtly sportify (not a word) a watch.

Links/Bracelet – Stainless, gold, titanium, etc…  More durable than leather and understandably found on dive style watches.  Simply saying the two words “wet leather” aloud is uncomfortable enough, let alone actually feeling it against your skin.  Not as difficult to change out as most would think.

Contrast Stitching – A detail that plenty of watch bands have.  Contrast stitching almost always = more casual.

NATO / ZULU –  Usually nylon fabric style straps that slip through the space between the watch case and the spring bars.  NATO straps are usually thinner and have an extra watch keeper strap.  Most guys would call ZULU straps “slip-thru” (like the hugely popular Timex Weekender slip-thru series), although a true ZULU strap has a thicker band/rounded hardware.

Rubber/ Silicone – Extremely casual.  Most rubber watch straps aren’t nearly as pliable or flexible as the softer silicone.  Which makes sense since they often use silicone for, well… nevermind.

Canvas – (not shown) Attaches to the watch via the spring bars like a standard leather strap.  Often backed with leather for structure/strength.  Very casual.

Pilot/Aviator – (also not shown) Rivets near the lugs add extra strength so the watch doesn’t come shooting off when you’re pulling 9 G’s during an evasive maneuver.  Right… again (see rally straps.  Doesn’t mean they don’t look cool.)

Other Basics

Deployment/Deployant Clasp –  Method of securing your watch to the wrist found on metal bracelet style watches as well as some leather band versions.   Instead of a traditional buckle, a hinged metal mechanism closes the two ends and can be released by pushing buttons on either side.  A note on the terminology: most use “deployment” (including some watchmakers) but plenty will argue that “deployant” is the correct term.

Spring Bars – The critical unseen component to holding your strap to the case of the watch.  These are the small rods that slip into the holes of your watch band.  Slightly depressing the spring as you replace the band is something that takes practice.  Changing a spring bar is like changing a roll of toilet paper, only at 1/100 the scale.  Same concept.  Having extra spring bars on hand in case you lose one (they like to jump and go flying) is a good idea.

Spring Bar Tool – You’re going to want to get a good one of these.  In fact, get a kit (this one looks good for the price.)  This is the small forked tool you’ll use to access the spring bar between the band and lug.  Much more effective and safe compared to a steak knife on the back porch after a couple of beers.

Lug width – This is the width between the two small extensions (lugs) that come down off the watch.  The spring bar attaches here by way of small holes on the interior of each lug.  You’ll need to match this width to the width of any future watch bands for a good fit.  Some bands, despite matching the width, might be a hair too large.  A steady hand with a razor blade can shave off just enough.  When in doubt, size down.  But you risk showing off some of the lugs.

Where to Buy

Crown & Buckle – Has an extremely strong following.  Everything on their site is $50 or under.
Wood & Faulk – A splurge, but their pass-through watch straps are terrific.  Full review here.
Target – For cheap slip-thru straps.  Lots of colors in store.  For the real deal try here.
Your local mall watch kiosk – Most carry a good selection of bands at decent prices.
Michael’s, JoAnne Fabrics, Etc… – For leather NATO style bands.  Michael’s especially.
Make your own – There are lots of DIY plans out there.  Here’s one example, also from Wood & Faulk.

Your turn fellas.  Where have you bought replacement straps?  Is there a certain style you favor, or alternatively just can’t bring yourself to wear?  Leave it all in the comments below…

Comments

  3. Good start, I’d appreciate a 102 explaining what to look for in band that makes it look great with a watch. Particularly, I’ve heard a lot of people say that certain link bands look cheap by the proportions of one link to another, is there something in particular we should be looking for? Is it more about weight and feel?
    I know that cross-stitched bands look amazing when they highlight an accent color in the watch face or case.

  4. Link bands are tricky. I suggest going into an actual shop for that as you need to take into account proportions, size, colour, tones and the type of metal (shiny or brushed etc). Leather is much easier and if you buy online and DYI you save a bundle. Just remember the old adage that if you pay peanuts you get monkeys. Aim for a band at least 25 to 50 bucks; no 10 dollar El cheapos

  5. Joe, if you ever think of stickifying some essential posts on the homepage, start with this one. Very informative.

  8. Stickifying (n) – The act of covering an object, be it animate or inanimate, with glorious unicorn stickers.

  9. Lately I’ve become enamored with the leather band + deployment (deployant?) clasp. Especially a black leather band and stainless clasp. I saw a Montblanc in a display case that blew me away. It seems to be a style reserved for very formal (and therefore expensive) watches – anyone seen one on a $300 watch?

  13. Deploying? How about fold over with a safety clasp? 🙂 Sure. Some watchmakers (C. Ward and Orient to name a couple) seem to use the term interchangeably. Updated above.

  16. Code “watchuseek” gets you 15% off at Crown and Buckle. It’s only good sportsmanship to make an account at the Watchuseek forums and take a peek around first, of course.

    “Changing a spring bar is like changing a roll of toilet paper, only at 1/100 the scale.”

    ^I had this vividly illustrated to me when I was changing TP rolls the other day, evidently failed to get the thing correctly seated, and had the roll holder shoot across the bathroom.

  20. I have a NATO from Crown & Buckle for my Timex Weekender. Later I purchased a cheaper NATO off ebay for use on a cheaper watch. The strap from ebay (watchbandgirl – good selection) ended up being more substantial/thicker than the C&B version; FYI.

  22. Does Wednesday have you feeling ticked off? Well come on down to Midnight Comedy With Bruschetta and get ready to put your hands together! We guarantee he’ll turn your crown upside down! Trust me, you’ll absolutely lug it!

  23. as long as the watch doesn’t have some non-standard way of attaching the strap, you could always buy the band/clasp separately. I almost always replace the bands on my watches with aftermarket ones. I don’t care for steel bracelets, but I do like deployant clasps. I’ve got a silicone/stainless deployant on a Vostok Amphibia right now, way nicer than the original bracelet, and it totally matches the watch.

  24. highly polished metal is hard to pull off without looking cheap, but other than that, I can’t really tell the quality unless I’m holding it in my hands. But like I posted above, all-metal isn’t really my thing. I agree with James that Leather is easier.

  26. I ordered a couple of the leather ones after I saw the Reddit post about them. Apparently (via Reddit comments) they are cross-grain leather. They seem ok to me. I haven’t put any of them on my watches yet, but they seem very thin. Much more so than I was anticipating. Doesn’t seem like its a bad deal for the cost. The nylon NATO bands feel great though (haven’t put one of those one yet either).

  27. Brilliant post! I’ve just recently become interested in watches and have breathed new life into old watches by updating the straps. You’re right about the double ridge; not that common but a nice way to “sportify” a watch, ever so slightly. I just put one on a semi-dressy chrono and it looks amazing, esp with some driving gloves and a vintage convertible (in my dreams).

  28. This is great. Can you do a series on watch faces too? Perhaps options for different occasions…

  31. I am cursed with small wrists. It is hard to find a leather band that fits without punching a bad-looking hole in it or leaving three inches of extra band coming off the clasp. Anyone have ideas for this problem?

  33. I have bought some Nato and Zulu leather straps from them. The Zulu straps are thicker and I am pretty happy with them accounting for the price point. The latest batch I got was around early March. Many of them are decent however I found the photos on the site does not accurately show the colors of the strap. The rusty zulu PVD strap in particular was very disappointing as it was ‘plasticky’. I when wrote reviews on the products, which two items I gave 3 and 3 stars. They were taken down the next day. That is very disappointing that the seller wants to conceal not-positive feedbacks and that other buyers would not benefit from my experiences. I am very disappointed in this tacit as I have been very generous when buying from them/sophie the seller. Long story but be careful or have a certain expectation when buying form them. Study the pictures and perhaps take the reviews with a grain of salt.