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The Always List

August 14, 2012 By Joe | Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Also, we take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

There are always exceptions.  Or are there?  At the very least, the following will take a long, lonnnng time to fall out of style and favor.  Additions, overlooked exceptions, etc… can go in the comments.  Top Photo Credit:  Amy Gahran

1. Two button, center vent, navy wool suit with a medium width notch lapel
2. The bright white dress shirt
3. Semi-spread collars
4. 2.5″ – 3.25″ wide silk neckties with simple stripes or small dots
5. The Half Windsor
6. Brown (or black) cap toe, closed lacing true oxfords
7. Bar lacing (how-to here)
8. The small and subtle buckle dress belt with minimal shine
9. A silver dial, simple face dress watch with a leather band that matches your belt and shoes
.
10. Peak lapel, single button tuxedo with bow tie
.
11. The stainless steel dive watch (preferably one with minimal shine and medium to large width links)
12. A black, fitted polo that hits at mid bicep or just above
13. A light blue oxford cloth button down
14. Merino V-Neck sweaters in medium to light grey, navy, and black
15. Suede Chukkas / Desert Boots
16. Classic canvas sneakers
17. Slim but not tight, dark wash blue jeans
18. That dark denim with a solid light button up, a grey or blue cotton sport coat, and good looking lace ups or boots.

19. A leather billfold
20. The somewhat structured, soft sided briefcase with top centered handle(s)
21. Silver knot cufflinks
22. Or… silk knot cufflinks

23. A wool peacoat, double breasted overcoat, or single breasted top coat.
24. A water resistant trench that hits just above the knee
25 Carrying a good looking, classic umbrella, if there’s a decent chance of rain
.
26. Clean shaven
27. A side part that’s not overly maintained
28. Getting your hair cut a week before people start to notice you could use a haircut

29. Dry gin martini with a lemon peel twist
30. Single malt, neat
31. Thinking carefully about whether or not you really want a third
32. Knowing when it’s time for you, or your friend to get a cab
.
33. Having decent stationery on hand
34. Handwritten thank you notes
35. Giving flowers for no reason
36. Paying in Cash
.
37. James Brown on the stereo
38. Getting on the dance floor (even if you’re not a great dancer)
39. Taking the stairs
40. Smiling

Filed Under: Accessories, Clothing, Dappered Classics, Drink, Etc., Grooming, Shoes, Watches, Women Tagged With: list, the always list

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Comments

  1. Guest says

    August 14, 2012 at 3:19 AM

    #9 the watch – silver face or white face is more timeless?

    #38 dance floor – its a trap!

  2. henry says

    August 14, 2012 at 5:04 AM

    semi spread collars? not with my flat ass nose

  3. Chris Myhalsky says

    August 14, 2012 at 5:14 AM

    Excellent list, trying to add a few of them into my daily life already, but now I see a few more, thanks!

  4. JacobG says

    August 14, 2012 at 6:10 AM

    IMO Bar lacing Iis a no go. Reminds Me of all the skater shoes with bulky tounges and laces I see kids tucking their jeans into. Just can’t get it out of my head. A classy shoe should be tied with a slim tied not.

  5. mc6320 says

    August 14, 2012 at 6:11 AM

    What do you think about the Christopher Ward C5 Malvern Automatic MK II for the silver-faced dress watch? Thinking about maybe pre-ordering it but that’s obviously a lot bigger commitment than the Bulova.

  6. Eric says

    August 14, 2012 at 6:35 AM

    Squats, push-ups, pull-ups, sit-ups.

    Drinking plenty of water.

  7. Jeff R says

    August 14, 2012 at 6:52 AM

    Well played Joe. Just wondering where the “leopard print iPhone case” should fall on this list?

  8. Jimbo says

    August 14, 2012 at 7:15 AM

    My problem with bar lacing is that I have been unable to get the lacing tight enough to keep the shoe tight against my feet. For me, the over-under is best for tight lacing.

  9. Ryan Fitzpatrick says

    August 14, 2012 at 7:20 AM

    Desert Boots? Really? They’re as big a fad as monk straps

  10. bennynojets says

    August 14, 2012 at 7:35 AM

    I am not sure if they are a fad, but I have been wearing desert boots for almost 15 years.

  11. Jason says

    August 14, 2012 at 7:44 AM

    In regards to the Desert Boots – are there any brands/variations that work for people who have wide or flat feet? I tried some of the Clarks on and they were just too narrow. I like the style, I just can’t find any that fit!

  12. Geoff says

    August 14, 2012 at 7:59 AM

    Great List Joe.
    Many would argue that the four-in-hand should really be on the always list, as opposed to the half windsor. However, it comes down to whether you like a symmetricla knot. Being proficient in tying the one knot of your choice, however, would definitely be on the always list.

  13. BB says

    August 14, 2012 at 8:12 AM

    I think we need to come up with a different word than “fad” for things like desert boots and boat shoes. They’re not new, they’ve been around forever (both for at least a century, right?) but they have recently become far more popular with fashionable magazines, blogs, and so on. Their current level of popularity in, say, Brooklyn will doubtless soon fade. But that doesn’t mean these things are a flash in the pan, either. They will continue to be stylish if not fashionable well into the future. What would one call, then, the state of something timelessly stylish that is nevertheless very hot for a short while?

  14. SolefulStrut says

    August 14, 2012 at 8:14 AM

    Rudie…

  15. hornsup84 says

    August 14, 2012 at 8:15 AM

    My father saw my desert boots and recalled the pair he wore in college / post-grad. In the 70s.

  16. Todd says

    August 14, 2012 at 8:49 AM

    what is the fascination with polos with little baby sleeves? i feel like a girl wearing cap sleeves in anything without a sleeve that hits near my elbow. maybe i need to work out more.

  17. Mike N says

    August 14, 2012 at 8:50 AM

    Nice list. Definitely agree re: the dance floor – nothing more awkward that telling date no all night… not to mention opening yourself up for a ‘mind if we dance with yo dates’ situation.

  18. Jacob says

    August 14, 2012 at 8:51 AM

    any suggestions on a good brown dress belt?

  19. Joe says

    August 14, 2012 at 8:53 AM

    GREAT call.

  20. Joe says

    August 14, 2012 at 8:55 AM

    Mid bicep is a cap sleeve? I don’t like having a sleeve rubbing in my elbow pit. That, and if it is, chances are the shoulder seam is halfway down my tricep and not on my shoulder where it looks best.

    Arms move more freely and I usually stay cooler in a mid bicep polo. Feel like I’m drowning in some oversized pique golf polo otherwise.

  21. Joe says

    August 14, 2012 at 8:57 AM

    Can’t agree with you there. They’re a basic that look and act like one. They certainly have saturated the market once again, but while the monk strap (as much as I do like them, I know, cliche) will eventually evaporate back into the style ether, Desert boots will almost always be a good, casual, three season decision.

  22. Todd says

    August 14, 2012 at 9:11 AM

    I have a lot of polos where the inner part of the sleeve closest to the chest is almost non-existent, to me that is a cap sleeve. you can have polos that fit in the shoulders and still have decent sleeves. brooks brothers fits me the best.

  23. Butch_Zee says

    August 14, 2012 at 9:18 AM

    In order to wear the mid-bicep polo, please consult Eric’s comment above. Maybe then it won’t make you “feel like a girl?” Dunno. I think half sleeves (down to the elbow) on a polo look terrible. I guess it’s a preference. Unless we’re using polo shirt and golf shirt interchangeably?

  24. Jeffrey L. says

    August 14, 2012 at 9:38 AM

    I agree with the four-in-hand. I think it works best with the narrower lapels we are seeing. I would also say a pindot tie should be on there

  25. DanPatrickFlores says

    August 14, 2012 at 9:54 AM

    What if you grew up in the town from Footloose?

  26. Nicholas Crawford says

    August 14, 2012 at 10:12 AM

    After reading this, I feel like I have too many ascots.

  27. Ty says

    August 14, 2012 at 10:19 AM

    I’d opt for leg raises instead of sit ups. They tend to be better for your body as a whole and if you’re doing pull ups then you have the necessary equipment already.

  28. Joe says

    August 14, 2012 at 10:46 AM

    Yeah, that’s not the same as mid-bicep. There’s a middle ground there for sure.

  29. Joe says

    August 14, 2012 at 10:47 AM

    Ah yes, we’re seeing those narrower lapels, but once they bounce back and start widening out again, the four-in-hand won’t work as well as the half widsor. A fine knot that plenty swear by (I tie it myself plenty) but the half windsor will work almost all the time.

  30. Steve Skavnak says

    August 14, 2012 at 10:51 AM

    It may be #40 on the list, but ‘Smiling’ will always be more important to me than any article of clothing.

  31. Steven Bremer says

    August 14, 2012 at 11:12 AM

    I think the white face is the better option. To me it is a bit less showy and white will allow any details on the face to pop.

  32. Sigtweed & Corduroy says

    August 14, 2012 at 11:13 AM

    Very good list. A subheadline: “How To Be A Man”

  33. Steven Bremer says

    August 14, 2012 at 11:22 AM

    no Gin for me put I will gladly drink a Vodka Martini with 3 olives.

  34. Kevin says

    August 14, 2012 at 12:06 PM

    Ever tried european straight lacing instead of the standard bar lacing?

  35. Hon says

    August 14, 2012 at 12:19 PM

    the ab wheel is also amazing. Or hand walk-outs, if you don’t own one.

  36. Moses Gray Bratrud says

    August 14, 2012 at 12:41 PM

    Hey Dappered guys-

    I love this website, I love this post. I’m a college student trying to build a wardrobe on a budget, and I’d love it if you could expand on this list of staples and include the best and most affordable options for each item (e.g., where do I get a reasonably-priced briefcase of the kind you describe?) I think all of us would find that helpful. Thanks!

  37. TJ says

    August 14, 2012 at 12:49 PM

    All the more reason to learn

  38. Tim says

    August 14, 2012 at 1:12 PM

    It won’t have everything, but the $1500 Wardrobe series will have plenty of suggestions (https://dappered.com/tag/1500-wardrobe/)

  39. Guest says

    August 14, 2012 at 1:25 PM

    No pun intended I swear -_-

  40. Guest says

    August 14, 2012 at 1:26 PM

    Yeah I was thinking white is more classic

  41. P. Nitch says

    August 14, 2012 at 1:46 PM

    Sleeves that hit the elbow are in the same category as oversized dress pants and pleats

  42. TheHonestLifeBlog says

    August 14, 2012 at 3:53 PM

    Another great article (coming from a longtime reader). My favorite is definitely the dry gin martini with a lemon peel twist : )

    http://thehonestlifeblog.wordpress.com/

  43. Joe says

    August 14, 2012 at 4:14 PM

    Great point. List is in no particular order. I’d put an emoticon smiley here, but, that just seems awkward.

  44. Jeremy says

    August 14, 2012 at 4:17 PM

    Great article Joe. Can you give an example of #20?

  45. qpl says

    August 14, 2012 at 4:26 PM

    I disagree, only two knots are worth learning: the four-in-hand and the bowtie. I’m not the only one who thinks so. http://putthison.com/post/1022450856/why-the-four-in-hand-since-we-released-episode

  46. John says

    August 14, 2012 at 4:30 PM

    Many (and I’m among them) would argue that the only way to properly tie a tie is the four in hand. Very very surprised to see the half windsor listed here.
    http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2012/08/tie-too-long.html

  47. Joe says

    August 14, 2012 at 4:31 PM

    Big fan of the four-in-hand. But if you’re working with inexpensive neckties, which many of us are, a half Windsor can make up some ground.

    As far as there are “only two knots worth learning”… that’s a little extreme.

  48. Joe says

    August 14, 2012 at 4:33 PM

    The “only way to properly tie a tie”? Oh boy. Who knew there were four in hand fanatics out there. 🙂 Such extreme views almost seem… trendy? Maybe in 15 years the “only” way to tie a tie will be the Full Windsor.

    My God. The horror.

  49. Levi says

    August 14, 2012 at 5:41 PM

    This is why I love Dappered.

  50. Nick says

    August 14, 2012 at 9:31 PM

    Joe you never seem to mention gold or rose gold. I think gold tones look great with navy. I can’t quite decide how I feel about rose gold though, is it something a gentleman can pull off or should we leave it to the ladies?

    Also, check out the Orient Bambino instead of the Bulova! A little more pricey but a very classy look, not to mention an automatic.

  51. schoonerz says

    August 15, 2012 at 1:09 AM

    What about the firm handshake?

  52. Jack says

    August 15, 2012 at 7:53 AM

    http://www.saddlebackleather.com/Products/Business-Bags
    I LOVE these bags.

  53. Andrew says

    August 15, 2012 at 8:20 AM

    Can’t go wrong with the Allen Edmonds dress belt.
    http://bit.ly/RgpcAG

  54. Lib says

    August 15, 2012 at 12:24 PM

    Also remember that we’re on the ‘dark side’ here – most people could not give a hoot about ‘fashion’. Once you know what to look for then you see it everywhere. Style blogs/forums are not actually the weather vane of menswear that people might think they are.

    Anyway, to answer your question in today’s hopelessly smug parlance, I believe the term would be ‘re-discovered’.

  55. Scott Zylstra says

    August 15, 2012 at 1:12 PM

    Joe,

    I very much enjoy reading Dappered. Almost weekly I’ll Evernote a photo or two to help me in my clothes selection. However I feel you missed the mark when suggesting stationary.

    Plain ivory colored stationary – with a monogram or without – has served me well for the last 10 years. No 1902 boxers, no shaving equipment, just simple stylish stationary that you can pick up at any stationary store and send to anyone for any occasion.

    A mans stationary like any other accessory should be timeless, practical and adaptable.

    Scott

  56. Scott Zylstra says

    August 15, 2012 at 1:12 PM

    Is that even possible?

  57. Levi Gardner says

    August 15, 2012 at 5:03 PM

    @0db6871cc5faae6341b70a4f88c384b0:disqus The four in hand is a nice knot, but I don’t think it works with semi or wide spread collars. In those cases, it’s necessary to fill out that space with a wider tie knot.

  58. Adam says

    August 15, 2012 at 9:05 PM

    I totally disagree with the “paying in cash” thing. I feel like the only people I ever see doing that are the kind of people who aren’t together enough to have bank accounts, so they cash their paychecks at the grocery store.

  59. Adam says

    August 15, 2012 at 9:07 PM

    Plus, any time I have to pay in cash, it just seems like such a hassle. It takes longer because they have to count everything out, I have to figure out what to do with the change… If you’re talking about tips and things of that nature, that’s fine, but otherwise, paying in cash is clunky.

  60. Alex Christensen says

    August 15, 2012 at 9:29 PM

    Adam – I understand where you’re coming from, but I prefer to pay with cash at small, local shops. I like to support my local bakeries, coffee shops, etc, and cash is a lot better for them. That way they don’t have to pay the transaction fees, which are much more significant for them than Starbucks.

  61. Alex Christensen says

    August 15, 2012 at 9:33 PM

    Where’s the bourbon?

  62. Peter Ohaver says

    August 17, 2012 at 3:59 PM

    To be honest, a lot of cashiers hate when people pay with cash.

  63. Leo says

    August 20, 2012 at 1:55 PM

    I haven’t heard of this until you recommended it..thanks for the tip! the regular straight bar usually leaves my laces way too long

  64. Mike Saenz says

    November 30, 2012 at 2:55 PM

    I like Alex’s response to your comment about supporting your local shops. Plus, I’ve always just donated the loose change into their tip jar to avoid the hassle of having that bang in my pocket with my phone/keys. Just a thought.

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