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How to build a basic watch collection – The four styles

January 23, 2012 By Joe | Heads up: Buying via our links may result in us getting a commission. Also, we take your privacy rights seriously. Head here to learn more.

The four watch styles every guy “should” have

Notice that the word “should” is in quotes.  We should all be so lucky to own one or two watches that we really like in our lifetime.  Some guys don’t even like wearing a watch, and plenty rely on their mobile phone. But many of us do like using a watch to tell the time, and c’mon, it also looks good on your wrist.

Before we get to the aesthetic styling of each watch, you’ll want to keep in mind three key factors in how the watch is constructed when purchasing a timepiece:

  1. The Movement:  Mechanical/Automatic movements run on springs and gears.  No battery is needed and they’re favored by purists due to the artistry it takes to create each watch.  Quartz movements are usually less expensive and require a battery, unless they’re a solar powered quartz movement like Citizen’s Eco-Drive, or a “kinetic” style which uses an oscillating weight (like Automatics) to generate the electricity needed.
  2. The Crystal:  This is the transparent window that protects the hands and dial.  In general, Sapphire > Mineral > Acrylic.  Sapphire is the most expensive and scratch resistant of the three.
  3. Water Resistance:  The larger the number the wetter it can get (50m is less water resistant than 200m.)  100m can handle snorkeling, so unless you’re a diver, watches with that rating should meet your needs.

Sierra Trading Post has a terrific watch buying guide, so go there if you want to read up more on that stuff.  Onto the styles.  Building a watch collection around these four should ensure you always have an option for your wrist.
.

#1. The Lower Glare Stainless Band
Left: Automatic. Right: Quartz.

If you’re going to buy only one watch, this classic dive style is probably the one to get.  There’s no leather that requires matching with your belt and shoes, and as long as it doesn’t get too aggressive, you can pull it off with a suit for less formal occasions.  But be aware.  Plenty of these look too much like man-jewelery.  Keep the shine on the links to a minimum, and know that as the links get smaller and more intricate, it starts to look more and more like a bracelet instead of a watch.  You want some toughness in there.  Suggestions:

  • Orient Ray Automatic – $107.50 w/code DapperedJanuary
  • Victorinox Maverick – $279.94
  • Seiko 5 Auto SNZJ – $130 – $200

 

#2. The Suit Worthy Black Leather Chronograph or Multi Function
Left: Eco-Drive. Right: Standard Quartz

Sure the male style community now favors brown leather dress shoes.  But plenty of us default to black when we dress up.  Well shined black shoes with a grey suit has a sharp, utilitarian, anti-dandy feel.  Look for a silver or black dial chronograph to match.  Steer clear of chunky rotating bezels which, when combined with the chrono, makes it too casual.  A chrono alone makes it easier to dress down with a sweater and jeans.  Suggestions:

  • Citizen Eco Drive 8700 – $281.25 (a perpetual calendar instead of a chrono)
  • Kenneth Cole Chronograph – $142.50 (also available in white for $96)
  • Hugo Boss Chronograph – $295.00
  • Skagen Chronograph – $195.00
  • Note: The silver dial Citizen at the top of the post is no longer made in that color scheme.

 

#3. The Brown Leather Contrast Dial
Both are automatic.

Look for dials that are either black, cream, silver, or white.  Blue works great too.  Many brown strap watches come with a matching brown dial.  That’s a ton of brown and it can look a little too much like a couch from the 1970s.  Black and brown can in fact go together in certain instances.  Timepieces and beer are two examples.  Suggestions:

  • Orient Vintage Automatic – $212.50 w/code DapperedJanuary
  • Hamilton Khaki King – $322.72
  • Orient Explorer – $325.00 w/code DapperedJanuary
  • Tissot T Classic Dream – $162.99
  • Skagen White Dial Blue Hands – $110.00

 

#4. The Rubber Strap Casual
Quartz. Both of em.

The funny thing about a rubber strap is that it’ll often look fine with any belt/shoes combination.  Brown boots, black watch strap?  Sure.  Along with your stainless steel watch, you shouldn’t have any problems getting this one wet, dirty, and more or less beating it to death.  Suggestions:

  • Victorinox Maverick II Chrono – $218.88
  • Momentum M1 – $124.95
  • Golana AQ 110 – $189.00
  • Seiko Orange Monster – $175.00

Should a canvas strap Timex Weekender style have been included?  What about a plain and simple dress watch?  Agreements, disagreements, and other suggestions should go below.

A note on buying online: There’s plenty of sketchy watch sellers out there on the net.  If you’re buying off Amazon, make sure to either buy direct from Amazon, or, look for the word “fulfilled” by Amazon.  That way, Amazon has skin in the game in case you get a dud.  All links to Amazon were created to point to Direct or Fulfilled by Amazon watches, but know Amazon automatically switches to 3rd party retailers when available if a watch sells out.

Filed Under: Watches Tagged With: automatic, Citizen, dive style watches, Hamilton, how to build a watch collection, Kenneth Cole, Momentum, Orient, Quartz, Victorinox

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Comments

  1. Rob says

    January 23, 2012 at 2:32 AM

    No Gold?
    Is the gold Longines I bought myself after landing a great new job off the fashion-scale?
    With my skin-tone and gold wedding band, I have always thought that some gold on the bezel (with black or brown leather band) and sometimes the band as well makes for a more professional look  – although I still have the casual stainless steel and the rubber digital watch for running and the beach

  2. supes says

    January 23, 2012 at 4:23 AM

    I think for you it may make sense to include a gold watch in your collection, but to a lot of guys gold may feel a bit gaudy. it seems like this is a basic jumping off point for someone who is just starting to begin to buy watches. silver is also much easier to wear than gold. your right though, if you have the right skin-tone it could look great (the gold band doesn’t hurt either). i know i couldn’t pull it off…good job.

  3. Ryan N. says

    January 23, 2012 at 4:33 AM

    I’ve always felt gold to be a little gaudy, and it doesn’t go well with my skin tone or complexion (which I’m thankful for). But if you can pull it off, kudos to you. 

  4. Jessy Diamond says

    January 23, 2012 at 5:30 AM

    I think the canvas strap watch should be in there. It is a great casual summer look. I ordered a blue Nato strap for my Orient Mako (it came with a rubber strap, didn’t like it at all) and I’ll be getting a Timex Weekender with a grey or red strap to shake things up a bit.

    For dressier occasions, I prefer my simple, clean Seiko 5 with a black leather band instead of a chronograph. I prefer plain watches to chronographs in dressier situations. Still, I would love to add a chronograph in my collection eventually.

  5. Jeff B. says

    January 23, 2012 at 5:59 AM

    Anyone have any expericen with the Golana pictured?  I really like the looks of it but the Amazon reviews are not too good.

  6. Stephen says

    January 23, 2012 at 6:49 AM

    I would have added a field watch category for the canvas straps.  Perhaps this comes close to the brown band category, but I think one still may need a dressier brown banded watch for day-time wearing with non-black-shoes suit combos in addition to a weekends-field watch.

  7. Aaron B says

    January 23, 2012 at 7:09 AM

    Good stuff here. I have developed a similar collection without even realizing it.  I have the two-tone Citizen Eco Drive for most daily work wear.  The lower glare stainless band for casual Fridays or the weekend.  The brown leather contrast I just received as a gift for Christmas, but it has gone into regular rotation.  I don’t have anything with a rubber band, though.  I’ve seen plenty, but all of them have looked cheap and too casual for my tastes.

  8. tat says

    January 23, 2012 at 7:49 AM

    I own the Kenneth Cole Chronograph with the white face / black strap. I love it, it’s a great watch, and can easily dress it up due to it not being chunky at all.

  9. TheMeInTeam says

    January 23, 2012 at 7:53 AM

    I’d replace the rubber strap with a canvas strap for #4. Also, I know metal bracelets are common, but I don’t see any reason to own a watch with one.  Black or brown leather can handle any dressed-up occasion while canvas takes care of your weekends, all much more comfortably than a metal bracelet.

    Another watch that’s not exactly stylish yet still has a place in most guys’ collection is just a simple $30 digital watch like a Timex Ironman or Expedition, for workouts, jogging, etc.  It’s not a necessity or anything, but mine gets plenty of use.

  10. Jessy Diamond says

    January 23, 2012 at 7:57 AM

    A somewhat related question : where and how do you store your watch collection ?

  11. The Deke says

    January 23, 2012 at 8:03 AM

    I’d be interested in this as well. My little blossoming watch collection currently just sits on the counter next to my wallet and keys…

  12. Chet Steadman says

    January 23, 2012 at 8:15 AM

    http://www.amazon.com/Storage-Compartments-Cushions-Clearance-Removable/dp/B001G6YBO8
    I ordered this box for $60 from amazon. It’s build quality is pretty solid, but I’m not sure who else sells it (Amazon is out). One problem with this type of storage is that it doesn’t wind the automatics, but I’m not about to buy a bunch of winders.

    For my everyday watches, I just keep them in a leather valet tray I got on clearance from either PB or C&B.

  13. Chet Steadman says

    January 23, 2012 at 8:15 AM

    “Its”, not “It’s”.

  14. Matt Court says

    January 23, 2012 at 8:19 AM

    I think that the canvas strap is more of a sub-category. It could have been an asterisk in the rubber strap casual category but I don’t think worthy of its own. Also, if you’re having trouble deciding between the red and gray strap for the Weekender (both excellent choices imo) try one of these: Gray and red slip through strap

  15. guest says

    January 23, 2012 at 8:40 AM

    Orient Ray Automatic – $107.50 w/code DapperedJanuary is sold out…

  16. Jason says

    January 23, 2012 at 8:43 AM

    PB? C&B?

  17. paulr says

    January 23, 2012 at 8:49 AM

    I’m guessing Pottery Barn and Crate & Barrel … known in my household as Pottery Barrel since they’re often hard to tell apart 🙂

  18. BenR says

    January 23, 2012 at 8:55 AM

    Dunno about PB but C&B is Crown & Buckle.

  19. BenR says

    January 23, 2012 at 9:01 AM

    I think I have to disagree with you on this Joe… to me, your watch choices all look pretty similar, i.e., all basically sport casual watches. At least, in the top photo. That’s a lot of subdials, crowns and plungers, and extra dial markings. To each his own, of course, but I would probably recommend a dive-style watch, a minimalist dress watch, a field watch or chronograph, and a no-nonsense beater watch like a G-Shock.

  20. Butch_Z says

    January 23, 2012 at 9:18 AM

    Don’t forget a watch winder if you go the automatic route. 

  21. BenR says

    January 23, 2012 at 9:25 AM

    Nevermind, didn’t read that thoroughly, paulr is probably right.

  22. AlejandroK says

    January 23, 2012 at 9:26 AM

    Did anyone else read the second one as “Black leather suit worthy” instead of “black leather, suit worthy?”. Cause I was thinking that Joe had lost his mind on recommending a watch worthy of a black leather suit.

  23. Chet Steadman says

    January 23, 2012 at 9:57 AM

    Yep- sorry. 

    One of these: http://www.potterybarn.com/products/saddle-stitch-leather-catch-all/?catalogId=91&cm_src=AutoRel

  24. Joe says

    January 23, 2012 at 10:02 AM

    HAWT.  Dude.  You DON’T have one?  Stylin’  (fixed)

  25. BenR says

    January 23, 2012 at 10:30 AM

    I used to be iffy about gold but have recently embraced it. It’s a look best served by a watch that is sleek and understated, with a narrow bezel and a leather strap – no 50mm gold divers, please. But since you’ve got a Longines, I’m willing to bet it’s one hell of a classy watch.

    Here’s my goldie… I’ve got a lighter brown strap incoming, which should complement the gold better than the burgundy croc: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/theantiduck/P1060500.jpg

  26. Ben E says

    January 23, 2012 at 10:36 AM

    Great guide and some great watches here!!

    The blue ray is next on my personal list, and that Kenneth Cole is awesome!

    Cheers,
    Ben

  27. Joe says

    January 23, 2012 at 11:07 AM

    I love mine: https://dappered.com/2011/03/the-best-sub-200-sport-watch-the-golana-aqua-100/ but, know that it’s a bit of a beast, and where the strap meets the clasp can split.  Super glue fixed mine.

    I’d maybe wait to see if they pop up on Beyondtherack or Hautelook.  Seems like they’re on there from time to time?

  28. Joe says

    January 23, 2012 at 11:10 AM

    This is where I store mine:  http://gifts.redenvelope.com/mens/monogrammable-mens-leather-watch-case-30000610?ref=HomeNoRef&tile=hmpg_hero3&viewpos=3&trackingpgroup=rfmfv  Got it as a gift a few years back and I’m awfully happy with mine.

    The code SRCHSAVE20 takes 20% off.

  29. Joe says

    January 23, 2012 at 11:17 AM

    Looks like the dial colors that aren’t blue are still available.

  30. guest says

    January 23, 2012 at 11:37 AM

    Also, what about storing automatic watches.  As in watch winders that also double as nice storage cases.  Any recommendations?

  31. Brian Barnett says

    January 23, 2012 at 11:38 AM

    Isn’t wearing a watch like wearing glasses with no prescription?  Everyone has a cell phone.  There are computers all over the place.  There is no shortage of time devices around you at all times.

    I never wear a watch.  I hate the way it binds up my cuff.  If that doesn’t bother you, why not wear a watch on each wrist since they really are just jewelry for guys.

  32. Chet Steadman says

    January 23, 2012 at 11:39 AM

    That’s a great-looking watch. But does anyone else wish Orient didn’t have such a chintzy-sounding name? Their Explorer is one of my favorite watches, but it took a while to pull the trigger due to the name.

  33. Wehttamemsit says

    January 23, 2012 at 12:00 PM

    I’m not sure if its been asked but I’ll just ask anyway.
    What are the 4 watches pictured at the top of the page?

  34. Wehttamemsit says

    January 23, 2012 at 12:01 PM

    nvm dont answer. I fail

  35. krk says

    January 23, 2012 at 12:13 PM

    I did what I swore I would never do and bought the J. Crew Andros today. 40% off the sale price with the promo code released today brought it down to below $90.

    I still feel a little dirty.

  36. mike r says

    January 23, 2012 at 12:28 PM

    A watch is a nice accessory that compliments your outfit. A cellphone does not. When asked for time, there is a nice feeling in not having to reach in your pocket like the others for the smartphone and having the time right on your wrist.

    Since engagement rings are also jewelry, do you wear one on each finger?

  37. BenR says

    January 23, 2012 at 12:50 PM

    Not everyone walks around with their cellphone attached to their head. And even if they do, it’s a lot easier and more subtle to check the time via your watch than to dig in your pocket for your cellphone while you’re in the midst of something else. Very few things can make your companions feel more neglected than consistently pulling out your phone and checking it while you’re with them. In fact, excessive cellphone use is one of the surest ways to look like a giant douchebag.

  38. BenR says

    January 23, 2012 at 12:56 PM

    The name has never bothered me. I guess it might if it were a Western company trying to sound exotic.

  39. Anonymous says

    January 23, 2012 at 1:07 PM

    Also, when a woman asks for the time (which does happen), I’ve been complimented on my choice in watch and a conversation has been started. That has never happened with my cell phone.

  40. BenR says

    January 23, 2012 at 1:13 PM

    A general comment on watch crystals:

    Sapphire > mineral > acrylic is true if you’re looking at scratch resistance. The reverse is true, however, if you are looking at shatter resistance. The harder a material is, the more it resists scratches, but that also makes it more brittle. The fragments of a shattered sapphire crystal can get caught under the hands of the watch and do serious damage to an expensive automatic movement.

    Military spec watches actually require acrylic crystals because of their greater shatter resistance – in the military context, a shattered sapphire crystal is just that much more shrapnel.

    In other words, I wouldn’t necessarily worry too much about whether a watch has a sapphire crystal or not. Each type of crystal has its pros and cons. In a sportier watch, I personally think that a few scratches add a bit of character – or at least they give the impression that you may have actually used your sporty watch for something more than just buying groceries and sitting at a desk.

  41. Chet Steadman says

    January 23, 2012 at 1:15 PM

    I totally agree. Shattered crystals are a pain in the d.

  42. zmkahn says

    January 23, 2012 at 1:44 PM

    I’m surprised there’s no square or rectangular watches in this mix.  A rectangular watch with a black band can look great with a suit!

  43. Joe says

    January 23, 2012 at 1:58 PM

    Ha!

  44. Anonymous says

    January 23, 2012 at 2:27 PM

    I enjoyed this article – I have seven watches in my modest collection, and seem to have one in each of these descripstion except the leather-strapped, suit worthy black. It may be unwarranted, but I have a negative feeling toward buying watches from fashion companies that happen to toss their brand on watches, ie Kenneth Cole. I also already own a citizen, and am looking to branch out – any other reccomendations worthy of a well tailored black suit?

  45. Brian Barnett says

    January 23, 2012 at 2:53 PM

    Guys don’t wear engagement rings.  But if they did, then your scenario might play well in Utah.

  46. Ryan says

    January 23, 2012 at 3:59 PM

    All of these are too busy for my personal taste.  Even the Hamilton one pictured above has too much going on.  I know I’m in the minority.  Just my take.

  47. Gmolina2003 says

    January 23, 2012 at 5:31 PM

    I use a Titanium Breitling Seawolf on a Horween Shell bund strap and weekends I switch the watch to a NATO watch strap….
    http://forums.watchuseek.com/f15/devils-details-seawolf-avenger-content-513340.html

  48. Jessy Diamond says

    January 23, 2012 at 8:19 PM

    And now I think I need a chronograph in my collection. This might be my Christmas present (yeah, I know, it’s a bit early, but hey, a man can dream) : http://www.tissot.ch/?mod_collections/action_getsubfamilies/colid_0002/famid_0101/refid_VDAzOV80MTdfMTZfMDU3XzAw

  49. Chareth says

    January 23, 2012 at 9:05 PM

    I agree with BenR, all your choices do tend towards the sport casual, leather straps notwithstanding.  I’d put my categories at: dressy, military, chrono and diver if I had to pick four.

    Straps are a whole ‘nother story. 😉

  50. cool story brah says

    January 23, 2012 at 9:59 PM

    I wish that silver dial citizen was still for sale..I’d buy it in a heartbeat

  51. Anonymous says

    January 23, 2012 at 10:12 PM

    Don’t neglect a simple vintage dress watch. Many really excellent American, Swiss, or Japanese vintage automatics can be found in great working condition for well under $100. I’m more of a ’60-70s Sports Diver kinda guy, but I still own a very nice Seiko Sportsmatic Deluxe from ’68, a nice ’50s-60s Enicar Seapearl, and a sweet little Swiss Robot from the ’60s. I know I spent less than $200 in total for those three.

    I have 9 autos in my collection. I don’t use a winder. I just shake ’em and set them when I wear them, usually when I’m checking my email in the morning and having my first cup of coffee.

  52. Adam says

    January 24, 2012 at 4:43 AM

    Jorg Grey 6500

  53. Adam says

    January 24, 2012 at 4:45 AM

    What model is this?

  54. jeremy beasley says

    January 24, 2012 at 6:55 AM

    +1 on the Timex Weekender. Great casual watch and great value. I have the Olive ($30). 

    http://www.amazon.com/Timex-T2N651KW-Weekender-Olive-Through/dp/B004VR9HP2/ref=sr_1_2?s=watches&ie=UTF8&qid=1327413256&sr=1-2

  55. Jessy Diamond says

    January 24, 2012 at 7:00 AM

    I might buy two Weekenders, one in olive and one red/grey. You can’t have too many watches, right ?

  56. BenR says

    January 24, 2012 at 12:11 PM

    http://orientwatchusa.com/fgw01008w
    Looks like it’s out of stock in the gold, but there are still a few left in the other colorways (including the classy steel case/white dial).

  57. Thebug40 says

    January 24, 2012 at 5:15 PM

    What are thoughts on Movado’s Museum faced watches? Has this gone out of fashion or is it a classic?
    http://www.movado.com/movado-collections/museum.html

  58. Prime says

    January 24, 2012 at 9:33 PM

    There are still lots of places where wearing watches is not only perfectly practical but almost required. I work in a jail and am responsible for logging down times all throughout my shift but am not allowed to have a cell phone on me. There are plenty of clocks around but they all range a much as 20 min from each other so you never know which one to trust. Also with that having a “go to daily” watch definitely gives you more accurate time then the clock behind the counter at Starbucks. I know my Bianci (never heard of the brand, took a chance and by far best watch i have ever owned and great value) is just about 2 minutes faster then all cell phones and computer driven clocks. I am not saying it is often that 2 minutes makes a difference but if you happen to get backed up in traffic or the Starbucks line was a little long and their crappy wall clock says you have 6 minutes to get to work but its running 5 minutes slow and least your trusty watch will let you know you might want to hustle your walk to work to avoid an angry boss. 

  59. Dkmacleod says

    January 24, 2012 at 11:16 PM

    I wear a watch precisely because nobody does anymore. It makes you stand out in a good way. Even if they are nothing more than “jewelry for guys” so what? The ladies have so many possibilities for accessories, a watch is one way a guy can add to his outfit.

  60. dan says

    January 25, 2012 at 1:12 AM

    Way to be a dick.

  61. Joe says

    January 25, 2012 at 2:03 PM

    Move on fellas.  Many thanks.

  62. Ron says

    January 25, 2012 at 6:43 PM

    I agree with Chareth.  I would categorize based on face type vs straps.  A digital / workout watch is helpful to have in the collection as well.

  63. PhiAlphaRam says

    January 25, 2012 at 7:06 PM

    I’ve got to tell you I purchased the Swiss Army Maverick II a few weeks ago and it’s probably one of the most beautiful watches I have ever purchased.  The box, the heft, and the feel of this watch are pretty amazing at that price point.  I own an Omega Seamaster but I wanted something rubber strap so I wouldn’t have to swap the bracelet on that one and ruin it.  I pulled the trigger on this thing and I love it.  One of my favorite parts about it is how the dial actually looks silver but in fact it’s almost a white gold platinum rich color that really pops.  

    The only issue I had with is that the chrono long hand timer was not calibratied properly so when you went to reset it, it wasn’t going to zero.  But a quick look online gave me a quick fix that solved the only issue I have had with it.  I have already gotten quite a few complements on the watch.  I was worried cause I have a very large wrist and I thought it might be small but it fits great even on my beefy wrist.  Only thing I might do next with is buy a nice white or black nato strap to give it a little extra versatility/pop.

  64. The Deke says

    January 25, 2012 at 9:21 PM

    Since we’re sharing watches, I got a watch in the “brown leather contrast dial” department that I’m in love with.  Victorinox Infantry Chronograph.  It’s quartz, but I’ll be damned if it’s not my new favorite.

    http://www.amazon.com/Victorinox-Swiss-Army-24071-Chronograph/dp/B000GGQ96W/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1327551307&sr=8-12

  65. William says

    January 26, 2012 at 3:04 AM

    http://www.fhs.ch/en/faq.php this can help to get more acquainted with watch terminology

  66. Joe Rose says

    January 26, 2012 at 5:56 PM

    Orient Vintage Auto is out of stock.  Does anyone want to sell me theirs?

  67. Eaterofjellybeans says

    January 30, 2012 at 3:29 PM

    Will you have a coupon for February for Orient watches?

  68. Bo says

    August 4, 2012 at 2:13 PM

    I’ve been musing on this post for a while as I started wearing a watch again and then prepared to buy a new one….and as I already have a watch in category No. 1 on the list (and don’t quite have the money to spring for a more expensive option), I went with a black canvas strap Timex Weekender. Simple, classic and casual, in my opinion. Surprised it didn’t make the list in a sub-category or at least a mention.

  69. Sam says

    December 30, 2013 at 9:36 AM

    I think the fashion brands should be avoided. You’re paying extra for the name without getting better quality. Stick to names like Seiko and Citizen and Orient for lower budgets and get stuff like Patek Philipe, Seiko (again) and AP if you have more to spend.

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