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How to build a basic watch collection – The four styles

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The four watch styles every guy “should” have

Notice that the word “should” is in quotes.  We should all be so lucky to own one or two watches that we really like in our lifetime.  Some guys don’t even like wearing a watch, and plenty rely on their mobile phone. But many of us do like using a watch to tell the time, and c’mon, it also looks good on your wrist.

Before we get to the aesthetic styling of each watch, you’ll want to keep in mind three key factors in how the watch is constructed when purchasing a timepiece:

  1. The Movement:  Mechanical/Automatic movements run on springs and gears.  No battery is needed and they’re favored by purists due to the artistry it takes to create each watch.  Quartz movements are usually less expensive and require a battery, unless they’re a solar powered quartz movement like Citizen’s Eco-Drive, or a “kinetic” style which uses an oscillating weight (like Automatics) to generate the electricity needed.
  2. The Crystal:  This is the transparent window that protects the hands and dial.  In general, Sapphire > Mineral > Acrylic.  Sapphire is the most expensive and scratch resistant of the three.
  3. Water Resistance:  The larger the number the wetter it can get (50m is less water resistant than 200m.)  100m can handle snorkeling, so unless you’re a diver, watches with that rating should meet your needs.

Sierra Trading Post has a terrific watch buying guide, so go there if you want to read up more on that stuff.  Onto the styles.  Building a watch collection around these four should ensure you always have an option for your wrist.
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#1. The Lower Glare Stainless Band
Left: Automatic. Right: Quartz.

If you’re going to buy only one watch, this classic dive style is probably the one to get.  There’s no leather that requires matching with your belt and shoes, and as long as it doesn’t get too aggressive, you can pull it off with a suit for less formal occasions.  But be aware.  Plenty of these look too much like man-jewelery.  Keep the shine on the links to a minimum, and know that as the links get smaller and more intricate, it starts to look more and more like a bracelet instead of a watch.  You want some toughness in there.  Suggestions:

 

#2. The Suit Worthy Black Leather Chronograph or Multi Function
Left: Eco-Drive. Right: Standard Quartz

Sure the male style community now favors brown leather dress shoes.  But plenty of us default to black when we dress up.  Well shined black shoes with a grey suit has a sharp, utilitarian, anti-dandy feel.  Look for a silver or black dial chronograph to match.  Steer clear of chunky rotating bezels which, when combined with the chrono, makes it too casual.  A chrono alone makes it easier to dress down with a sweater and jeans.  Suggestions:

 

#3. The Brown Leather Contrast Dial
Both are automatic.

Look for dials that are either black, cream, silver, or white.  Blue works great too.  Many brown strap watches come with a matching brown dial.  That’s a ton of brown and it can look a little too much like a couch from the 1970s.  Black and brown can in fact go together in certain instances.  Timepieces and beer are two examples.  Suggestions:

 

#4. The Rubber Strap Casual
Quartz. Both of em.

The funny thing about a rubber strap is that it’ll often look fine with any belt/shoes combination.  Brown boots, black watch strap?  Sure.  Along with your stainless steel watch, you shouldn’t have any problems getting this one wet, dirty, and more or less beating it to death.  Suggestions:

Should a canvas strap Timex Weekender style have been included?  What about a plain and simple dress watch?  Agreements, disagreements, and other suggestions should go below.

A note on buying online: There’s plenty of sketchy watch sellers out there on the net.  If you’re buying off Amazon, make sure to either buy direct from Amazon, or, look for the word “fulfilled” by Amazon.  That way, Amazon has skin in the game in case you get a dud.  All links to Amazon were created to point to Direct or Fulfilled by Amazon watches, but know Amazon automatically switches to 3rd party retailers when available if a watch sells out.

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Comments

  1. No Gold?
    Is the gold Longines I bought myself after landing a great new job off the fashion-scale?
    With my skin-tone and gold wedding band, I have always thought that some gold on the bezel (with black or brown leather band) and sometimes the band as well makes for a more professional look  – although I still have the casual stainless steel and the rubber digital watch for running and the beach

  2. I think for you it may make sense to include a gold watch in your collection, but to a lot of guys gold may feel a bit gaudy. it seems like this is a basic jumping off point for someone who is just starting to begin to buy watches. silver is also much easier to wear than gold. your right though, if you have the right skin-tone it could look great (the gold band doesn’t hurt either). i know i couldn’t pull it off…good job.

  3. I’ve always felt gold to be a little gaudy, and it doesn’t go well with my skin tone or complexion (which I’m thankful for). But if you can pull it off, kudos to you. 

  4. I think the canvas strap watch should be in there. It is a great casual summer look. I ordered a blue Nato strap for my Orient Mako (it came with a rubber strap, didn’t like it at all) and I’ll be getting a Timex Weekender with a grey or red strap to shake things up a bit.

    For dressier occasions, I prefer my simple, clean Seiko 5 with a black leather band instead of a chronograph. I prefer plain watches to chronographs in dressier situations. Still, I would love to add a chronograph in my collection eventually.

  5. Anyone have any expericen with the Golana pictured?  I really like the looks of it but the Amazon reviews are not too good.

  6. I would have added a field watch category for the canvas straps.  Perhaps this comes close to the brown band category, but I think one still may need a dressier brown banded watch for day-time wearing with non-black-shoes suit combos in addition to a weekends-field watch.

  7. Good stuff here. I have developed a similar collection without even realizing it.  I have the two-tone Citizen Eco Drive for most daily work wear.  The lower glare stainless band for casual Fridays or the weekend.  The brown leather contrast I just received as a gift for Christmas, but it has gone into regular rotation.  I don’t have anything with a rubber band, though.  I’ve seen plenty, but all of them have looked cheap and too casual for my tastes.

  8. I own the Kenneth Cole Chronograph with the white face / black strap. I love it, it’s a great watch, and can easily dress it up due to it not being chunky at all.

  9. I’d replace the rubber strap with a canvas strap for #4. Also, I know metal bracelets are common, but I don’t see any reason to own a watch with one.  Black or brown leather can handle any dressed-up occasion while canvas takes care of your weekends, all much more comfortably than a metal bracelet.

    Another watch that’s not exactly stylish yet still has a place in most guys’ collection is just a simple $30 digital watch like a Timex Ironman or Expedition, for workouts, jogging, etc.  It’s not a necessity or anything, but mine gets plenty of use.

  11. I’d be interested in this as well. My little blossoming watch collection currently just sits on the counter next to my wallet and keys…

  12. http://www.amazon.com/Storage-Compartments-Cushions-Clearance-Removable/dp/B001G6YBO8
    I ordered this box for $60 from amazon. It’s build quality is pretty solid, but I’m not sure who else sells it (Amazon is out). One problem with this type of storage is that it doesn’t wind the automatics, but I’m not about to buy a bunch of winders.

    For my everyday watches, I just keep them in a leather valet tray I got on clearance from either PB or C&B.

  14. I think that the canvas strap is more of a sub-category. It could have been an asterisk in the rubber strap casual category but I don’t think worthy of its own. Also, if you’re having trouble deciding between the red and gray strap for the Weekender (both excellent choices imo) try one of these: Gray and red slip through strap

  17. I’m guessing Pottery Barn and Crate & Barrel … known in my household as Pottery Barrel since they’re often hard to tell apart 🙂

  19. I think I have to disagree with you on this Joe… to me, your watch choices all look pretty similar, i.e., all basically sport casual watches. At least, in the top photo. That’s a lot of subdials, crowns and plungers, and extra dial markings. To each his own, of course, but I would probably recommend a dive-style watch, a minimalist dress watch, a field watch or chronograph, and a no-nonsense beater watch like a G-Shock.

  22. Did anyone else read the second one as “Black leather suit worthy” instead of “black leather, suit worthy?”. Cause I was thinking that Joe had lost his mind on recommending a watch worthy of a black leather suit.

  23. Yep- sorry. 

    One of these: http://www.potterybarn.com/products/saddle-stitch-leather-catch-all/?catalogId=91&cm_src=AutoRel

  25. I used to be iffy about gold but have recently embraced it. It’s a look best served by a watch that is sleek and understated, with a narrow bezel and a leather strap – no 50mm gold divers, please. But since you’ve got a Longines, I’m willing to bet it’s one hell of a classy watch.

    Here’s my goldie… I’ve got a lighter brown strap incoming, which should complement the gold better than the burgundy croc: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v207/theantiduck/P1060500.jpg

  26. Great guide and some great watches here!!

    The blue ray is next on my personal list, and that Kenneth Cole is awesome!

    Cheers,
    Ben

  30. Also, what about storing automatic watches.  As in watch winders that also double as nice storage cases.  Any recommendations?

  31. Isn’t wearing a watch like wearing glasses with no prescription?  Everyone has a cell phone.  There are computers all over the place.  There is no shortage of time devices around you at all times.

    I never wear a watch.  I hate the way it binds up my cuff.  If that doesn’t bother you, why not wear a watch on each wrist since they really are just jewelry for guys.

  32. That’s a great-looking watch. But does anyone else wish Orient didn’t have such a chintzy-sounding name? Their Explorer is one of my favorite watches, but it took a while to pull the trigger due to the name.

  33. I’m not sure if its been asked but I’ll just ask anyway.
    What are the 4 watches pictured at the top of the page?

  35. I did what I swore I would never do and bought the J. Crew Andros today. 40% off the sale price with the promo code released today brought it down to below $90.

    I still feel a little dirty.

  36. A watch is a nice accessory that compliments your outfit. A cellphone does not. When asked for time, there is a nice feeling in not having to reach in your pocket like the others for the smartphone and having the time right on your wrist.

    Since engagement rings are also jewelry, do you wear one on each finger?

  37. Not everyone walks around with their cellphone attached to their head. And even if they do, it’s a lot easier and more subtle to check the time via your watch than to dig in your pocket for your cellphone while you’re in the midst of something else. Very few things can make your companions feel more neglected than consistently pulling out your phone and checking it while you’re with them. In fact, excessive cellphone use is one of the surest ways to look like a giant douchebag.

  38. The name has never bothered me. I guess it might if it were a Western company trying to sound exotic.

  39. Also, when a woman asks for the time (which does happen), I’ve been complimented on my choice in watch and a conversation has been started. That has never happened with my cell phone.

  40. A general comment on watch crystals:

    Sapphire > mineral > acrylic is true if you’re looking at scratch resistance. The reverse is true, however, if you are looking at shatter resistance. The harder a material is, the more it resists scratches, but that also makes it more brittle. The fragments of a shattered sapphire crystal can get caught under the hands of the watch and do serious damage to an expensive automatic movement.

    Military spec watches actually require acrylic crystals because of their greater shatter resistance – in the military context, a shattered sapphire crystal is just that much more shrapnel.

    In other words, I wouldn’t necessarily worry too much about whether a watch has a sapphire crystal or not. Each type of crystal has its pros and cons. In a sportier watch, I personally think that a few scratches add a bit of character – or at least they give the impression that you may have actually used your sporty watch for something more than just buying groceries and sitting at a desk.

  42. I’m surprised there’s no square or rectangular watches in this mix.  A rectangular watch with a black band can look great with a suit!

  44. I enjoyed this article – I have seven watches in my modest collection, and seem to have one in each of these descripstion except the leather-strapped, suit worthy black. It may be unwarranted, but I have a negative feeling toward buying watches from fashion companies that happen to toss their brand on watches, ie Kenneth Cole. I also already own a citizen, and am looking to branch out – any other reccomendations worthy of a well tailored black suit?

  45. Guys don’t wear engagement rings.  But if they did, then your scenario might play well in Utah.

  46. All of these are too busy for my personal taste.  Even the Hamilton one pictured above has too much going on.  I know I’m in the minority.  Just my take.

  49. I agree with BenR, all your choices do tend towards the sport casual, leather straps notwithstanding.  I’d put my categories at: dressy, military, chrono and diver if I had to pick four.

    Straps are a whole ‘nother story. 😉

  51. Don’t neglect a simple vintage dress watch. Many really excellent American, Swiss, or Japanese vintage automatics can be found in great working condition for well under $100. I’m more of a ’60-70s Sports Diver kinda guy, but I still own a very nice Seiko Sportsmatic Deluxe from ’68, a nice ’50s-60s Enicar Seapearl, and a sweet little Swiss Robot from the ’60s. I know I spent less than $200 in total for those three.

    I have 9 autos in my collection. I don’t use a winder. I just shake ’em and set them when I wear them, usually when I’m checking my email in the morning and having my first cup of coffee.

  58. There are still lots of places where wearing watches is not only perfectly practical but almost required. I work in a jail and am responsible for logging down times all throughout my shift but am not allowed to have a cell phone on me. There are plenty of clocks around but they all range a much as 20 min from each other so you never know which one to trust. Also with that having a “go to daily” watch definitely gives you more accurate time then the clock behind the counter at Starbucks. I know my Bianci (never heard of the brand, took a chance and by far best watch i have ever owned and great value) is just about 2 minutes faster then all cell phones and computer driven clocks. I am not saying it is often that 2 minutes makes a difference but if you happen to get backed up in traffic or the Starbucks line was a little long and their crappy wall clock says you have 6 minutes to get to work but its running 5 minutes slow and least your trusty watch will let you know you might want to hustle your walk to work to avoid an angry boss. 

  59. I wear a watch precisely because nobody does anymore. It makes you stand out in a good way. Even if they are nothing more than “jewelry for guys” so what? The ladies have so many possibilities for accessories, a watch is one way a guy can add to his outfit.

  62. I agree with Chareth.  I would categorize based on face type vs straps.  A digital / workout watch is helpful to have in the collection as well.

  63. I’ve got to tell you I purchased the Swiss Army Maverick II a few weeks ago and it’s probably one of the most beautiful watches I have ever purchased.  The box, the heft, and the feel of this watch are pretty amazing at that price point.  I own an Omega Seamaster but I wanted something rubber strap so I wouldn’t have to swap the bracelet on that one and ruin it.  I pulled the trigger on this thing and I love it.  One of my favorite parts about it is how the dial actually looks silver but in fact it’s almost a white gold platinum rich color that really pops.  

    The only issue I had with is that the chrono long hand timer was not calibratied properly so when you went to reset it, it wasn’t going to zero.  But a quick look online gave me a quick fix that solved the only issue I have had with it.  I have already gotten quite a few complements on the watch.  I was worried cause I have a very large wrist and I thought it might be small but it fits great even on my beefy wrist.  Only thing I might do next with is buy a nice white or black nato strap to give it a little extra versatility/pop.

  68. I’ve been musing on this post for a while as I started wearing a watch again and then prepared to buy a new one….and as I already have a watch in category No. 1 on the list (and don’t quite have the money to spring for a more expensive option), I went with a black canvas strap Timex Weekender. Simple, classic and casual, in my opinion. Surprised it didn’t make the list in a sub-category or at least a mention.

  69. I think the fashion brands should be avoided. You’re paying extra for the name without getting better quality. Stick to names like Seiko and Citizen and Orient for lower budgets and get stuff like Patek Philipe, Seiko (again) and AP if you have more to spend.