From the Mailbag: Finding a good, affordable, navy suit.
Hi Joe,
I was wondering if you could recommend a navy suit for me? I’m looking for something slightly less traditional than the standard navy color. (I can barely tell the difference between most navy suits and the charcoal suit I wear). Something like J. Crew’s cashmere suit. If that were in my price range, I’d get that.
– Jay
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Not that long ago charcoal was the foundational suit color for most. But in the last few years, the much more British looking navy suit with brown or even lighter cognac shoes started penetrating the American Male style psyche. And for good reason. Navy is more, uh, colorful than charcoal, but it remains plenty sharp and business ready. The key is to keep it solid if you’re looking for your foundation suit, so skip the pinstripes, plaids, and ignore those tonal stripes.
A couple options follow that fulfill the following: They’ll be wool, viewed as affordable by most, the navy won’t be too dark, the shoulder pads won’t be wildly obtrusive, and the off the rack fit will be slimmed down instead of a boxy traditional fit. More suggestions from you guys are welcome in the comments.
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B.R. Tailored Fit Italian Wool Navy Suit Jacket & pant – $353.30
at 30% off ($505)
This thing should be the flagship for Banana Republic suiting, but they’ve got it buried at the bottom of their website’s suit page. Helped a friend choose a suit for his wedding and this one won easily. Here’s why it’s one of if not the best navy suit available under $400:
- The fabric is sourced from an Italian company and it feels noticeably different in your hands.
- It’s lightweight, and while 100% wool, there’s enough spring and natural stretch to it that you’d think there was some synthetic mixed in there to provide that give. But there’s not.
- Navy, but not ultra-dark.
- Armholes are good and high, side vents in the back, and the button stance is great.
It comes in their closer, “tailored” fit, so be prepared to size up and have the waist brought in if you’re between sizes. Good news is that it’s not categorized as one of their “monogram” suits, which are often excluded from codes. Their regular line gets excluded sometimes too, but wait and you should be able to get a decent discount.
Bar III Dark Blue Pindot – $357.00 ($595)
They call it a pindot but it’s more of a worsted/navy on lighter weave. Bar III is the one Macy’s house brand that fits real slim, has high armholes, and has subtle shoulder pads. Peaks on the lapels are nice and small. Fabric doesn’t feel flimsy in the least, and it’s an obvious step above Hilfiger trim fit and Alfani RED when it comes to material and construction. Button stance leans lower which is good. Moves real well. Leans pretty dark, but the dots underneath gives it some visual texture/depth. Always on sale, and currently 40% off. A warning: This really is an extra slim fit. A 38 jacket comes with size 31 pants (that’s called a 7″ “drop”) and they are tight.
Indochino Essential Navy – $379 (and you get the $75 alterations credit)
You either love them, hate them, or understand that their sight unseen custom tailoring is a risk that often pays off thanks to the $75 re-tailoring credit. You’re taking the risk for the minimal shoulder padding, higher than average armholes, and ability to customize the lapels, vents, add a ticket pocket, etc… Indochino covers up to $75 in alterations if your suit isn’t perfect. So instead of expecting perfection out of the box, think of it as a $300 off the rack suit with some expected tailoring. Super 100s wool moves extremely well and feels super smooth in your hands. A real dark navy though, so not for those who want something that leans more noticeably blue.
The Splurge: Suit Supply Napoli Wool 110s – $469.00
There is a camp that believes buying a fused or partially fused inexpensive suit is a poor use of money. Those people don’t quite get that spending $300 is a stretch for plenty, and there are a ton of us who have had terrific success with fused/partially fused suits over the years. But if you do have the ability to lay $400 or more on a suit, go with SuitSupply. They deliver incredible construction, fabrics, and off-the-rack-fit for the price. This one is cut in their “Napoli” silhouette, which isn’t their tightest, but it’s going to be a real nice base for your tailor to work off of. Some might be able to skip tailoring on the jacket. Incredible bang for the buck, if you have the buck. In person review of one of their $469 suits can be found here.
Now only if J. Crew Factory could make a Thompson Fit in navy, and we’d all be set. Any additions to this list? Got a lead on a dark blue but not quite navy suit (so lighter than these) that’s afforable? Leave it all in the comments…
Also receiving votes: Alfani RED (low-ish armholes), Hilfiger Trim Fit (strong-ish shoulder pads)
Other places scouted: Kohl’s, JC Penny, Jos. A. Bank, & Nordstrom Rack
Joe, the Hugo Boss Navy pinstripe suit from Last Call you suggested is money.
“There is a camp that believes buying a fused or partially fused
inexpensive suit is a poor use of money. Those people don’t quite get
that spending $300 is a stretch for plenty,”
Definitely belong to this camp! As a guy who lives in suits 5+ days a week, I can highly recommend suitsupply as the very high quality suits for a very decent price. I love my suitsupply suits more than my designer suits that cost twice as much!
@ Joe any experience with the Uniqlo Tasmanian?
Slightly more in the splurge range, but worth it in my opinion:
1. eHaberdasher’s Benjamin suit. $500 shipped. Fully canvassed. Slim, high armholes.
2. Brooks brothers Fitzgerald fit on sale. $500-$600 depending on the sale. Half canvassed and slim.
Yes, these are just a bit more, but why not pay $100 extra for a suit that will last you forever? Everything shown on these pages are fused glue-jobs that will fall apart.
The problem is the pinstripes. Fit might be good but pinstripes always look too gangster to me. Also, I’m not a big fan of the pointy hugo boss shoulders.
I’ve also been told that the Wizard of Aaah’s Daniele suits are made very nicely for around $300, but can’t vouch for them since I’ve never tried one.
Brooks Brother fitzgerald and milano navy suits….. how are they not not on this list… seriously
entire site (and store) 40% off and 60% next weekend.
fitz:
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=418&Product_Id=1210034&Parent_Id=216&default_color=Navy&sort_by=§ioncolor=§ionsize=
milano:
http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=418&Product_Id=1673698&Parent_Id=216&default_color=NAVY&sort_by=§ioncolor=§ionsize=
I thought big picture the pinstripes were fairly controlled, not Al Capone level. To each his own
I just got the Indochino Blue Sharkskin suit and it seems great to me (http://www.indochino.com/product/the-blue-sharkskin-suit). The color (unlike their navy you mentioned) is more noticeably blue while still being restrained. And, since it was my second suit from them, it fit perfectly right out of the box (or as my more traditional friend said, I’d let the waist out an inch).
1) Is it 40%-60% off the sale price?
2) When next week does it start?
I picked up the Bar III suit during a one day sale. I’ll reiterate that the color is very dark, almost closer to a charcoal than the blue shown on the website. It’s nice enough, but next to my Ludlows, the quality really didn’t hold up. Little things like the stitching in the lining and on the buttons, the feel of the wool, and the drape of the jacket just didn’t compare. I ended up returning it. The light gray Bar III option, which I’ve yet to see on the website, is made from much better wool, though the same construction problems persist.
This, of course, isn’t a fair comparison; Ludlows retail for $625, are super 120s italian wool, and half canvassed. You can, however, pick up brand new ones on Ebay for around $250 shipped, if you’re lucky. (Yes this is me bragging about a recent find).
On an related note. I want the Suit Supply blue suit ever so badly. The one shown, but especially the blue and light blue pinstripe. It must be pulled off!
I recognize that this is not really an option for people outside of NYC, but Uniqlo is a pretty great source for suits. Today, I’m wearing a navy wool 2-button number I got last February for $160. High armholes, minimal shoulder padding, 2 side vents, fairly slim but not too aggressively styled. After a trip to the tailor for a little sleeve shortening, it was pretty close to perfect. It’s not going to last decades, but it’s gotten some pretty heavy use over the last 5 months, and it’s showing no signs of falling apart yet. It’s a little warm for NYC summer, but today’s pretty nice and my office is like a meat locker, so not really a problem. If you’re near Manhattan, it’s definitely worth a look.
Just received the Suit Supply navy suit (pants are still at the tailor) and I cannot recommend it enough. Didn’t need to take anything in and the quality of the Super 110s is very high. It also has a nice, understated sheen to it that makes for a more luxurious look (IMO).
I own a suit supply in charcoal and I gotta say, it’s something else. A step above for sure, but you do pay for it. Although, there are plenty of suits out there that you’ll pay more for, that won’t quite measure up.
Why not pay $100 extra? Because for plenty $300 is already a stretch. And again, you called these “fused glue-jobs that will fall apart.” Disagree if not incorrect on two points. One, they’re not all “fused-glue jobs.” There’s a couple half canvas options up there (guessing BR and Bar III are in fact fully fused), yet meanwhile, a Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald which you suggest, is also half canvas. And two, even if they are fused, not all fused suits fall apart. Just like plenty of bond welt shoes, they don’t self destruct for everyone.
Some guys love to rip on fused suits and glued shoes, when the fact of the matter is that for plenty it’s not just the only option, it can also be a smart option.
Nope. But I can’t recall ever hearing something bad about anything from Uniqlo.
Glad you dig it! When it comes to pinstripes, you’re right, if they’re thinner and more subtle, they can work. But since Jay was writing in and looking for his first suit, it’s usually best to go with a solid or worsted.
Get em’ under $400 and then maybe they’d make the list…
It’s not your standard suit, but my next one will be the all-cotton Plain Weave suit from LL Bean Signature. I have plain weave shorts, and it’s a nice, tight material that would make a great casual suit. At the dressy end of casual, I would say.
I wish someone would make a heathered navy suit. I like navy better than charcoal, but I hate how solid, dark material shows even the slightest bit of lint, dust, dandruff, etc. A subtle heather effect would vastly improve the “wearability” of a navy suit.
I have one, it’s pretty great. The material is on par with the indochino essential wool, maybe a lil smoother.
I have the BR tailored suit and my buddy has the Indochino one. I really like the color on mine since it isn’t as dark his and most Navy blue suits. It’s one of my favorite suits…oh, it’s also the one I’m wearing in my avatar.
How does the quality of an Indochino compare with a Suit Supply offering? It sounds as if the Indochino suits are fused/partially fused? How long could one expect the Essential Grey to last?
Joe, what do you think of their new Superhero line? Fun for sure, but is the only difference the lining & off-colored button holes?
Like he says in the post, the Suit Supply quality will trump the Indochino quality, but it costs more. Hard to say how long it will last without knowing how much you’ll wear it. If you don’t wear suits much now, it’s a real shot in the dark how much you would wear it if you had it. I have the Essential Gray, love it, and wear it all the time (yesterday, even). I’ll keep buying Indochino suits, but I look forward to upgrading to Suit Supply in the future.
I would stay clear of the Superhero line! It’s one thing to have an Isaiah jacket with a signature lapel, but the Superhero line is not the same. If you have tons of suits and are looking for something different, sure, try it. But for a first suit or two or three, you want plain plain vanilla.
J. Crew does, in fact, make a Thompson fit suit in navy. I have one hanging in my closet right now, and wore it on Friday. All good signs pointing to the fact that it exists, I’d say.
However, as far as I can tell, it’s only sold in their factory outlet stores and not through their website for some…unknowable reason. They also had a corded cotton suit there, in addition to the navy and charcoal colors. Seems like they want to offer a wider range of suits in their stores than on their site?
Anyhow it’s not practical for everyone as there aren’t J. Crew outlets on every corner, but something to keep in mind.
re: Hugo Boss navy pinstripe, are the stripes actually subdued in person? Are they closely spaced or a wider stripe pattern? Thinking about pulling the trigger on it with the current 50% off LC sale.
“When next week does it start?” 7/4-7/8. Also, get 15-25% off if you grab a corporate membership from herehttp://www.oo.com/offer/index/offerID/58339/
Joe, any thoughts or experience with Black Lapel suits? They offer a Navy for $ 449 (free shipping and a flawless fit promise – as Indochino does.) It seems on face like they might be a slight upgrade to Indochino but I would be very curious to see how it stacks up against the Navy from Suit Supply. There was a coupon a few months back for them that would have put in the $380 range.
1. no, it’s baked in. but that includes you modifications.
also check out the summer suit section: http://www.brooksbrothers.com/IWCatSectionView.process?IWAction=Load&Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=419§ion_size=§ion_color=&sortby=newArrivals .
also try just walking in the store and demanding to pay no more than $400, magical things will happen… i promise…. i’m on a first name basis with my local bb folks
I’m going to post pictures at some point tonight in “Deals” thread on the boards. I feel they are fairly subtle and closely spaced.
My vote goes to the Indochino Essential Navy suit. I was happy with my 1st suit from them and hope this one turns out as good.
I picked up the exact same suit at a factory outlet last weekend, and it is currently at the tailor. I think we can safely say they exist and in my opinion at least, are awesome.
Been looking at Indochino – what’s the big complaint? Seems like with the info you give them the suit should fit pretty well, right? Are they poorly made?
Recently, I picked up the Navy Essential Suit (3-Piece) via Indochino and I am very impressed with it. I did have one alteration done to it. I have the pants tapered slightly. I went a little conservative with my first measurement of the knee area.
How much padding have the shoulders got?
Hey Joe, I bought a DKNY navy Christmas before last. Macy’s retail (snicker) $595, 40% off and then a 25% off men’s sale. A classic dark navy but a really great fitting (all of your above criteria, 7-inch drop) and feeling suit for around $260. I remember you praising it once in passing but have never seen it as a recommendation in these conversations (still available for $650 so the same deal would keep it under $300).
I just think that listing a suit for $500 isn’t unreasonable when your last option was listed for $470.
The Bar III suits that I have looked at are at least half-canvassed
Just because I love LL Bean Signature, anything (minus weird prints), I am going to follow suit (pun not intended, but smirk worthy) and buy this in a few months. Or perhaps their hit casual jacket and pants, which I can’t remember the name of off the top of my head.
Where is Joe getting the 30% off for Banana Republic? Is that expired already?
This reminds me when i was calling around for sizes they did mention a navy existed
Picked up the Bar III suit a few months ago and I am very pleased to say the least. Joe has it right about the extra slim fit, but for me (6’4” 190lbs) a 40L fit absolutely perfect with no additional tailoring needed. Highly recommended.
Hm making me regret not getting one of the Michael Kors from Macy’s when they were under $200
For those of us with larger frames (I’m 6’1″, 200 pounds, and wear a 44, but am nearly 21″ across the shoulders), Ralph Lauren’s green label and Hugo Boss’ Pasini/Move are gonna be out there for under $400 and both are already somewhat tapered and darted across the waist for tailoring.
If you can go a little higher, Ted Baker’s Endurance label fits broad shoulders and tapered bodies like it was tailored, but is hard to find in a solid color. It’s also got hacking pockets instead of straight pockets, if that’s a turnoff to you.
How much?
Yeah, how much? is it ever on sale? The charcoal thompson fits me perfectly and want a navy.
Also is the navy a really dark hard to tell navy? or lighter? Thanks
The suit I picked up was, at the time, 20% off. Most likely it could have been had for less, but I needed a suit so…it ended up costing about $260, give or take a few bucks.
The navy is a bit lighter, noticeably blue, and doesn’t appear gray or black like some navy suits can. Particularly when set off against a white shirt, the blue comes out.
After having worn the suit once so far, I’ve liked it well enough that I plan to buy the charcoal version when it goes on sale. The wool isn’t super smooth, as I believe it’s an 80s, but it’s not scratchy by any means. Just don’t expect anything too luxurious and you’ll have the right mindset. Although a few people commented how they though the lapels were a bit thin.
And on a side note, I believe the Joe mentioned the charcoal version is a wool mix? The tag on the navy suit says the pieces are 100% wool, for what it’s worth.
For those requiring size 36s, get Theory suit in Bluefly or sometimes your local Off 5th Avenue.
lands end tailored fit
I just tried on the BR Tailored Italian Wool Navy in store. Joe is right about the fabric & it fit me really well off the rack. If the price was equal, how does the quality compare to an Indochino Essential Suit & which would you choose?
how does suitsupply compare to a brooks brother suit?
I have one. Needs some tailoring just like every OTR suit, but the wool is incredible for the money. With a good tailor, you can look like a million bucks in them.
Thank you! Thats exactly what I need. A quick call to a nearby outlet confirms they have it… does anyone know of a coupon or any discounts at J crew factory brick and mortar stores? Its about 300 right now…
http://www.styleforum.net/t/294003/brooks-brothers-vs-suit-supply
Hey that Michael Kors “wool blend” navy is back for $199
how is your BR suit holding up? I’m thinking about picking one up. Do you know if it is canvassed or fused?
How is this Suit Supply suit in comparison to the Napoli? Seems to fit the bill for under $400.00 http://www.suitsupply.com/navy-striped-suit-sevilla/P2791,en_US,pd.html?start=19&cgid=Suits
Rough rough first experience with SuitSupply here. Took almost 2 months to get my order right. Granted, there was one exchange for a different size in there, but when the same thing happened with Bonobos, they bent over backwards to make things right. With Bonobos, I was wearing my the right suit in the right size 2 weeks after my order had been placed (tailoring included). SuitSupply gave me a number of “circumstances beyond our control” excuses (inventory issues, shipping issues, customs issues). In the end, I just want to get my suit in a timely fashion. And if there’s an issue, I want to feel like the company is on my side. Speaking of which, if you do have an issue with SuitSupply, make sure you call… they apparently don’t reply to emails.
Thanks, they tend to forget about us broader folks!
My Essential charcoal is a beautiful suit, and is holding up well. My chief complaint is the measurement system. When I received my suit it was as if 2 inches had been added to each of my measurements. My tailor did just about everything he could, but it doesn’t fit like the tailored suit I was hoping/paying for.
The Bar III suit I picked up http://www1.macys.com/shop/product/bar-iii-suit-separate-navy-plaid-slim-fit?ID=649752 is well fitted. I typically run about a 41 or 42 and 42R worked perfectly on me without tailoring. I am usually a 34×32, but those were too tight so I had to size up to 36×32. I have been around and tried on suits that are a bit nicer (Hugo Boss retail store offerings, stuff from a dedicated men’s store, and some stuff from Saks Off Fifth like a Zenga suit) and there is a very noticable difference between the weight, quality (feel) and details on these suits. There is also about a $240 to $350 price difference ($260 vs about $500 or more). I would HIGHLY doubt that the Bar III suits have any canvassing (I believe the lack of lapel stitching supports that theory as does the price point). Anyway, it’s a serviceable suit for summer wedding purposes I suppose, but it’s probably a bit too trendy and low quality for serious business. Just my opinion though.
I feel like I’ve heard this report before on SF or AAAC. I wonder if it would be wise to subtract 2 inches from all the measurements you give them. Seems a bit risky doing that though… maybe -1 inch would suffice.
^ This