Picking a length of a suit jacket or blazer is a little like picking your pant break. There are basically three philosophies:
- Your jacket should completely cover your ass. Full coverage.
- You should use the “curved fingers” method (here’s how to do it) to determine the length of your blazer.
- The shorter the better. Chopped even. AKA the Thom Browne effect.
Pretty sure we’ve reached the extreme of #3 with the new poplin jacket from LEC shown above. It’s so short that is appears to be not much longer than one of their new cardigans.
Here’s a demonstration of all three jacket length philosophies, using a straight on shot of the Indochino Essential Navy, with a little photoshop magic. Now remember, I’ve got a real long torso, so full butt coverage on me won’t look the same on someone else. The middle pic is reality:
#1 – Full coverage looks droopy on some torsos. #2 – Length determined by curved finger method. #3 – Chopped.
A Few Observations Worth Noting:
- The less formal / sportier the jacket, the shorter it can get without looking silly.
- Put anything inside a still frame and it’s much easier to notice these kinds of things.
- If you’ve got short legs, a jacket that completely covers your rear might make you look unbalanced.
- If you’ve got long legs, a chopped jacket will make you look like you’re on stilts.
- You need to figure out which method works best for you.
- It’s really all personal preference. Wear what you feel your best in.
- If you run a men’s style website, spring for a professional photographer every once in awhile, because one day, a post from long ago in which you took pictures of yourself at a crappy angle might come back to bite you in your not-completely-covered-by-your-suit-jacket-rear.