Four Common Suit, Jacket, and Blazer Adjustments
Below: Suit by Indochino, Tie by TheTieBar, Shirt by Alfani Red, Watch by D&G, Shoes by Gordon Rush
What do you tell the tailor when you go in? I just took my first set of stuff to the tailor this week; and while I was there I realized I had no freakin’ idea HOW slim to get things, how long to make my sleeves, etc.
– Shawn (left in the comments here)
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A good question, but not an easy one. Tailoring is all about fitting an individual body, and we’ve all got a unique chassis. I’m a long torso / big legged / prefer my jackets super close at the rib cage / need some pant length to move kinda guy. But with that said, there are a few foundational adjustments worth considering.
The red lines indicate where most off the rack athletic suits might fit. Know that when this suit by Indochino arrived, it was much more dialed in than those red lines. I still took it to my tailor and had her bring it in just a bit more (for free, thanks to the re-tailoring credit). These are the adjustments most will ask their tailor to make:
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1. Bring in the jacket sides / jacket waist
A jacket waist which darts in gives you that James Bond look. Have your tailor “pin you up” in front of the mirror. This is where they gather the fabric that will be taken in, and use pins to give you a preview. Once they’re done, do the hug test. Pretend that you’re going to hug someone. If you feel like you’re going to tear out a pin? It’s too tight.
2. Bring up / Shorten the sleeves
Wou’ll want to be showing 1/2″ – 1/4″ of shirt cuff when your arms are at your sides. It’s like a pocket square on your wrists. That bit of contrast goes a long way.
3. Bring in the pant waist
Most off the rack suits are sold as married pairs. Meaning the pants that go with the jacket can’t be swapped out. So if a jacket fits, and you’re not sportin’ a belly, you’ll need those pants taken in at the waist. You should be able to wear them easily without a belt. Suit Separates allow you to pick whatever pant size you want.
4. Hem the pant legs
Some guys like stick straight no-break pants that barely graze the tops of their shoes. If you’ve got bigger upper legs, that’ll cause some issues when you sit because your quands will really bring your pants up to flood stage level. A medium amount of break with just a bit of kink in the front crease should be just fine.
And those are the basics. You can always have the circumference of your pants and sleeves slimmed but that can be a little more invasive. Need a ballpark figure for how much alterations will cost? Click here. And yes I cut that entire outfield with a reel mower. In the suit. For the hell of it.
This is a great article. I remember walking into the tailor’s shop with my first suit. When the tailor asked what I wanted done, I had no freakin’ clue. It’s taken years of research and trial and error to get to a point where I can order a suit or sport coat and know what do do with it. This article, along with the pic, should be printed out and taken with you if you don’t know what you want done.
Might I add corollary to the article, Joe? Tailors are like tattoo artists: Many of them won’t do work that they think looks bad. This presents a problem when the tailor’s tastes run counter to yours. I like for my suit coats/sport coats to fit really snug, yet every tailor I have gone to has been reluctant to bring them in that much because they think it’s too tight. Same with trouser hemming. The last tailor I went thought that what I wanted was too short. I had to have her re-hem the pants (at no extra charge) even though we’d clearly pinned them where I wanted them the first time.
You have to be friendly but firm with most tailors about what you want. Do not walk out of the shop until an item is exactly how you want it, otherwise you’ll never be happy with it.
A perfect article. I think that I’m one of the many who, like Shawn and Dave, had no idea what to ask. Thanks Joe!
“Tailors are like tattoo artists: Many of them won’t do work that they think looks bad” I could not agree with you more. You’re dead on here. This bears repeating, highlighting, shouting from the rooftops etc… That’s why I like my tailor Leeda so much: http://dappered.com/2011/04/how-much-does-it-cost-to-tailor/ She gets it. She knows what I like. And it also helps that she digs that same style too. Same goes for the person who cuts your hair: http://dappered.com/2010/07/three-people-you-need-to-develop-a-relationship-with/ Their job is to figure out what you like, and offer a kind suggestion here and there if it’s warranted. None of this passive aggressive or plain blunt “That’s too tight/fitted” B.S. It’s too bad that more tailors aren’t the type who put their customers first, and realize that their own (the tailor’s) preference might not work for everyone else.
We call them Amish mowers or push mowers; I never knew that they’re actually called reel mowers.
I’ve taken many items to the tailor, but never a suit….yet. I’ve had the same feeling when walking in the first time. After a few pieces here and there, I’ve gotten the hang of it and plus my tailor knows how I like my clothes to fit now.
I think this may be a better way to go. Do a few individual pieces at a time, while getting the fit right then go full out on a suit.
Item 2 raises a question – how long should your shirt sleeves be? (And don’t say “1/4 inch longer than your jacket sleeves” )
I ask because I have a 17″ neck, and it makes finding shirts very difficult – they always seem to be huge and baggy.
@Matthew:disqus
IMO, another matter of personal preference. I like mine to rest *just* past the round bone that pokes out of your wrist, when my arms are at my sides. I wear a 17.5/36 off the rack (when you can find it) and, like you, find that most OTR shirt are ENORMOUS around the waist — particularly BB standard offerings. Both the sleeves and the body of the shirt can be taken in, though of the two, the body is easier. Any tailor who can hem your trousers can take in a shirt for you. As with the suit, show them what you want and suggest that if it seems to be a lot of material you don’t object to a couple of darts in the back (that is, if you don’t object to a couple of darts in the back).
Keep in mind that sleeves will come up when you bend your arm and, like trousers, will ride higher on those of us with big arms/shoulders. That’s ok — it’s a great opportunity to demonstrate that your jacket and shirt are in harmony and hey! aren’t those smart but subtle cufflinks you’re sporting there, sir.