Slim Fit Dress Shirts: Kenneth Cole REACTION, Geoffry Beene, and Murano
Click here for the first round featuring CK, Alfani Red, and Van Heusen
Fit is everything. And that goes for your dress shirts too. Your dress shirt should leave just enough room at the sides to move comfortably, but not so much that if you take your jacket off you’ll resemble a flying squirrel.
Thankfully there are fitted /trim fit dress shirts out there, but not all brands get it right. They vary in quality, feel, and how much they’re tapered at the sides. Six of the most accessible versions were tried on in person, photographed, and measured. Below you’ll find the results of the second half of testing. Let’s pick up where we left off.
Measurements of all shirts tried on: 15.5 32/33
The Methodology: De-pin, put on, and photograph with right arm hanging relaxed at side to show cloth overflow at waist. Marked where the cloth overflow seemed greatest above the belt-line with a pin. Measured at that point from side seam to side seam to get above the belt line widest point. Please excuse the awful fitting room lighting.
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Kenneth Cole REACTION wrinkle free – $34.99 (reg. $49.50) | 21 3/4″ at widest
When you think of Kenneth Cole, don’t you think modern? Up to date? Maybe even a little too stylistically progressive? Then why is he still making more or less traditional fit dress shirts? My mistake since this is, in fact, not from his fitted line. But I saw Kenneth Cole and figured it’d be trim at the sides. Wrong. It was by far the widest of any of the shirts and stood out in bulkiness as soon as I tucked it in. Add on top the cheesy wide tonal satin stripe and this thing is not something I’d want to wear. It is 100% cotton, and the collar is nice. But overall massively disappointing. Be aware that even if you reach for a Kenneth Cole New York, he makes both traditional and fitted dress shirt versions from that line too. Check those tags.
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Geoffrey Beene Wrinkle Free Sateen Shirt – $34.99 (reg. $49.50) | 21 1/4″ at widest
Unlike the Van Heusen cotton poly blend from last week, this one is at least more than half cotton. 55% cotton, 45 poly. Scratchy. Could be worse, but still. It’s decently fitted at the sides, but the collar is a little too much of a traditional point.
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Murano Liquid Cotton Modern Dress Shirt – $49.50 | 21″ at widest
Murano is the Dillard’s house brand that leans towards the younger male. Their suit separates have higher armholes, and their dress shirts are fitted. Close at the sides but with a little bit of stretch thanks to 3% XLA Lastol, this shirt is thick but feels cool and smooth. The sleeves are tailored trim as well, and the collar is a semi spread leaning a little closer to point. Could be a great shirt to wear without a tie. Plus, it comes in exact sleeve length sizes. No 32/33. You can pick 32, 33, 34, etc. The only drawback? It has a noticeable sheen to it. It’s not awful, but it’s there.
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Final Grades
Kenneth Cole REACTION: D At least it’s 100% cotton.
Geoffrey Beene: D+ Thinking to yourself: “It’s not that itchy” isn’t a good thing.
Murano: B+ If they could just kill the sheen, this thing would be an A+.
BEST IN SHOW: The Calvin Klein French Cuff from last week. Now only if they made it in barrel cuff.
Any further additions to the slim and fitted dress shirt pile? Leave those in the comments section below.
Flying Squirrel Photo Credit: Nikoretro
Once again I must tout the Paul Fredrick $20 OCBD. They are most definitely a dress shirt (longer tail, 8 button front, etc.), and are more fitted than I expected when I bought them. Perhaps not as fitted as the 1MX, probably because they don’t have any elastine or whatever mixed in. The rest of their line (for the most part) is pretty tacky, but the white button downs are the real deal.
I have a very good tailor who will take in the sleeves and body of a dress shirt for $10 so I shop more by design than by fit.
I would not buy a cotton/poly blend shirt so that rules out Geoffrey Beene and Van Heusen shirts.
The Murano shirt is by far the best of the three. I don’t mind a sheen to a shirt (so long as it is not from polyester) and in fact most high quality two ply dress shirts will have some sheen to them. It is a mark of quality. Years ago I had a pricey dress shirt from Canali made of two ply Sea Island cotton that had so much gloss people thought it was silk. It was one of my favorites.
@ Jared: I agree that Paul Fredrick has some tacky Mafioso/Gordon Gekko looking shirts (particularly the contrast collar and cuff shirts which I would not touch) but many are quite nice and reasonably priced.
I’m just curious… what ABOUT the 1MX shirts? Are they too casual to qualify for the showdown?
Cheers,
Ben
@Skinny Vinny, when you say take in the sleeves, do you mean make them skinner or shorter or both? I think I might be in the same position as you (skinny-ness wise lol?). I try sizing down and they are just too small in the shoulder, but getting a normal size the arms are a bit baggy and long, and the torso too baggy. I havent tried asking my tailor to modify the sleeves yet, but its worth looking into if you’ve had success.
If you’re looking for an OCBD, Lands’ End makes a surprisingly excellent tailored fit oxford, both button-down and point collar, as well as a broadcloth option curiously called the “Paintbrush”. For a brand which seems so targeted toward my 50-something father, these shirts are actually well worth the money. I picked up a few of the basic no-iron oxfords for something like 23 dollars each with free shipping, versus a normal price of $29.50, and have been thus far quite impressed with both the fit and the feel. The fabric is supple and thick, perfect for F/W, and the fit is delightful. My 15.5×35 measures just under 21 inches at its widest point — for comparison, a size Medium Modern Fit 1MX comes in at 21.5 and a Medium Fitted 1MX at 20.5. I don’t have experience with their broadcloth varieties, but if the OCBD is any indication, they may be worth checking out.
@Bryan: Regarding the sleeves, I make them slimmer, not shorter in the length. I should have clarified that.
I’ve had the same problem as you describe-going a size down in the neck leads to shirts that are too tight across the shoulders (which obviously can’t be altered) even though the fit in the chest is good.
Depending on the city you live in I can’t imagine it costing more than $20 to alter the sleeves and body. Still a lot cheaper than going the custom route.
On an unrelated note, I wish designers would eliminate the breast pocket on dress shirts. It would make for a MUCH cleaner look and I don’t know many people who use them anyway, unless you are auditioning for a Revenge of the Nerds sequel and need a place to put your pocket protector lol.
@Bryan. You can definitely get a tailor to take in the sleeves of the shirt. My tailor also charges me $10 but there’s tailors out there who will charge you a little more because they charge for waist and sleeves separately. Also some leave the piping(I think that’s what you call it) on the sides which is “fancier” but also pricier. No one ever notices that so that’s an option you can take or leave. More or less it shouldn’t be more that $20. If it is you’re paying too much.
Is it me or do people give too much credit to Lands End for the so-called fittedness of their shirts? Maybe I’m skinnier than Vinny but those things feel like parachutes on me. I can’t stress enough to get those button shirts at target because they run for $20, are very comfortable and all colors are solid. Good selection overall. Otherwise, H&M.
@Ben: Being that they only come in S, M, L, etc… for a lot of guys the collar is just to tight, or the sleeves are just too short. That’s my take, and… you guys have heard plenty about the 1MX already 🙂 BUT… in a pinch I will use one as a backup.
@Chris: At 6’2, 185, I’m hardly skinny (for reference, I’m a 40 suit and 33 waist). If you’re much slimmer than that, I can see how even the tailored fit could be a bit too loose. But for me, they fit just as well as, say, J. Crew or Rugby’s options, but at a third the price.
I bought a Lands’ End tailored fit, needed it tailored, and I still think it’s too baggy. She didn’t do the sleeves at all and those are massive on me. I’m 6’3 165.
Joe would it be possible to review a Brooks Brothers extra slim shirt? Bit out of my price range normally but I need one real nice shirt.
zara and topman make the slimmest affordable shirts i’ve been able to find. they have a lot of tacky junk but you can find some really nice stuff as well. but seriously, why do all these companies make shirts as if for sumo wrestlers? why the pleats? i’m going to start having nightmares about pleats if i keep finding only baggy crap.
Joe, any chance you can continue this series? Or at least review one slim fit shirt per week?
As male consumers, we are bombarded with “tailored”, “custom”, and “slim” fittings shirts so I find these reviews thoroughly enjoyable. Not all brands deliver on their claim, and it’s great when somebody takes them to task.
Possible suggestions for slim fit review: Zara, Brooks Brothers, Merona, J. Ferrar, Arrow, Stafford, Paul Fredrick, Uniqlo, H&M, Ralph Lauren, Tommy Hilfiger Ithaca… there’s absolutely no shortage!
I had great experience with Nordstrom’s “Trim Fit” dress shirts. Not too skinny yet very sleek and modern cut.
I’m a happy customer of Paul Fredrick “fitted” white oxfords. Very nice thick cloth and a good fit, crisp, tapered, what’s not to like? Get a coupon code and you’re off to the races.
At the higher end of your testing price range ($50.00), there is the Nordstrom trim fit shirts. They are 100% no-iron cotton, and the fit decent. Perhaps a fit test for review palooza 3 ??
The Nordstrom Rack Trim Fit are 100% no iron cotton and have a nice slim fit. At $30, they’re a good deal. Just be aware- the “tailored fit” is not as slim as the “trim fit.”
I was doing a google search for fitted dress shirt reviews and came across Joe’s Palooza – thank you for doing this, as I’m always keeping an eye out for decent slim-fitted shirts at an affordable price. Speaking of which, for those of you on a tight budget, I have found some Pierre Cardin slim fit shirts at Ross & Marshalls for $13 in great solid colors, though they’re a 55/45 cotton-poly blend and do have breast pockets. Still, the blend lends itself to being more wrinkle-resistant than 100% cotton, and I’d rather wear a blend than a “no-iron” or “wrinkle-free” cotton shirt that has been dipped in formaldehyde (the toxic chemical used to reduce wrinkles, and in embalming fluid). Typically, I’ve been a long-time fan of Calvin Klein, for both dress shirts and pants. And my current favorite is a deep purple DKNY.
I am in love with H&M shirts. It’s difficult for me to get shirts that fit as I’m taller than regular, and shorter than long. I usually get 34/35 sleeves. Fortunately, H&M medium fits me perfectly. Yes, they don’t come in enough sizes for everyone, but for me, they fit perfectly. The arms are slim, the body is trim, shoulders are perfect fit, and the sleeves are the perfect length. And for $15 for the ply/cotton blend, they’re incredibly cheap. For $25 you get the 100% cotton.
They also come in a lot of colors. Most of the patterned shirts look really dumb and trendy, but the solids or basic patterns are great.
This may be too late for any notice, but I have a few suggestions for those looking to improve their travel shirt wardrobe.
First of all, I think that the Express MX1 shirts are far too overrated. The benefits of the leaner cut and thinner arms are completely outweighed by the strange creases that develop in these shirts over time. Even when dry cleaned, these shirts will get creased if you rest your arms on your torso, carry a shoulderbag, or sit in a chair with armrests for more than a few moments. The collar crinkles semi-permanently in the back which looks ridiculous. Although the spandex makes for a close fit, if you ever have to iron these shirts, you have to stretch them out and keep the iron at low heat to keep from melting the fabric.
I have had amazing luck with Eddie Bauer’s wrinkle free pinpoint Oxfords. A tall-sized medium slim-fit works pretty well for me, but I got two of the tall-sized regular fit on sale and had them tailored for about $45 including the alterations. These shirts never wrinkle, and bundle in my suitcase very well. The colors don’t fade and you can wash and dry them regularly and they come out looking great. The base price for these shirts is $50, which is too much, but if you wait for the sale, you will get a shirt you can wash 300 times that travels better than any other shirt I have tried.
@Jack: Agreed on the collar crinkles, that appear over time but I gotta disagree on the ironing. I iron everything on normal cotton settings (which might contribute to the fusing coming unglued and thus, the wrinkles?) but the fabric on my standard collection of Express 1mx shirts doesn’t melt. Do you use a bit of starch on them? I’ll look for Eddie Bauer’s on sale per your suggestion.
No inclusion of the dkny slim fit shirt in this showdown? Pretty popular choice IMO
Definitely would love to see more slim shirt reviews. That alone could be a major section of this site. And a major draw/click through…
@Eric: Look for the third installment soon after the new year. More to come after that.
11/18/2010
Fit Custom Shirts
http://www.fitcustomshirts.com
I received the shirt it is very nice.
marvin r hamilton II
santa rosa beach, Florida
US
12/21/2010
Fit Custom Shirts
http://www.fitcustomshirts.com
What a great deal. I am hooked. Great quality!
Adam S Richert
Fort Wayne, Indiana
US
Well, interesting comparison. But really: if you’re going to do a feature on slim fit dress shirts, it might be more fitting– so to speak– to actually select slim fit dress shirts. Kenneth Cole Reaction indeed does make slim fit dress shirts— why would you review a ‘Cole shirt that was NOT a slim fit shirt as part of a feature regarding slim fit shirts? Makes no sense— and does little to clear the air concerning how an actual Kenneth Cole slim fit shirt compares to that of other brands.
Because, and I mention this in the post, it’s a mistake which many guys (myself included as I headed to the fitting room) will make. It’s worth pointing out, since not everyone knows, that Kenneth Cole does in fact make traditional fits. And at the time, the Macy’s nearby didn’t carry the trim.
As stated: “Be aware that even if you reach for a Kenneth Cole New York, he makes
both traditional and fitted dress shirt versions from that line too.
Check those tags.” Make sense now?
Well, yes, it makes sense. But this feature is entitled: Slim and Fitted Dress shirt review. Thus, the Kenneth Cole in question here– which received a D– should not have been included and reviewed regarding it’s slim fit qualities, good, bad or otherwise, given it was not a slim fit shirt. Is it a D, by and large (I noted the other criticisms) with respect to its slim fit quality, or lack thereof– which it does not claim to offer here– or a D as a dress shirt in general? All due respect of course, as I find this to be a great, informative feature–but the ‘Cole simply does not belong in the mix with respect to the slim fits, and how it stacks up. I still find myself wondering if the Kenneth Cole Reaction Slim fits are any good— and if anyone can chime in, it would be greatly appreciated.
I’m european and I find it hard to find a good slim fit dress shirt in the US. I used to favor DKNY, but they changed their cut about 3years ago and now I stand right between a small and a medium, and the 15 32/33 is just slightly too small (but i still boughtone that I wear).
I wanted to comment on the Kenneth Cole… the slim fit cut is actually quite fit and make me look great so don’t base you’re judgement on the non-fit review here. These are the first shirt i had to buy several times because I loved it so much. For the colors however, it is true… they are not great so I stick to the black one…