We live in a golden age of shirt fabrics, my friends. Poplin, broadcloth, oxford, twill, herringbone, houndstooth, pinpoint, and more, now all widely available thanks to the advent of online made-to-measure as well as high end shirt companies.
But… what the heck does it all mean?
We once bought coffee, but now we have the option of ordering a double-venti-mocha-holla-whositz with extra foam. We once bought dress shirts. Now you can get a 2-ply super 100s royal oxford. What makes it Royal? Is more ply, like in toilet paper, better? What does it all mean? Input. Need Input!
Relax, Johnny Five, your questions shall be answered below. Roll up those sleeves, because we’re about to figure out just what they’re made of.
Many online MTM shirting companies as well as some traditional retailers like Brooks Brothers advertise their available fabrics with a yarn number. It’s even becoming popular in more affordable stores like Banana Republic & Lands’ End. Companies make use of yarn numbers in their advertising as an indication of quality. Well, let’s just blow the lid off of that can of butterscotch.
A yarn number only tells you one thing: the diameter of the yarn used in the fabric. That’s it. Thick fabric has a lower yarn number because the yarn used to make the shirt is wider. Thinner fabric has a higher number. So while some dress shirts carry higher numbers, some, equal in quality (but just different in feel) shirts carry lower.
Dress shirt made in 80s (yarn diameter) 2-ply (# of yarns twisted together) from ratio/clothing
But what about Ply? Remember the Nick Wooster/Ron Johnson era at JCP? Seems like all of their casual shirts proudly carried the “2-Ply” distinction. Ply is a term used to describe the number of yarns that are spun together in the shirt fabric. Two ply means that two different yarns are twisted together before the shirting fabric is woven.
Here’s where it gets dicey. Fabric is created by weaving two sets of threads together. The “warp” threads run vertically on the shirt. “Weft” threads run horizontally. And some fabric uses 2 ply in one set of threads, and 1 ply in the other. In other words, not all two ply fabric is created equally. Proper Cloth has a great summary where they break this down further.
Got all that?
Yeah, it’s a lot. And we’re only on yarn. Once you’ve got your yarn, you’ve got to weave it into a fabric. And there are many, many different ways to weave fabric. Twill, Oxford (the “O” in OCBD), Pinpoint… etc. Most, if not all, you’ve heard of before. Here’s what makes what:
Quick tip: wear herringbone under jackets that have little pattern and minimal texture. Worsted jacket + herringbone shirt = good. Houndstooth jacket + herringbone shirt = trip down electric ave. on way to funky town. Herringbone truly shines on its own, uncovered, in all its glory.
AND THOSE ARE THE BASICS. Again, it’s a lot to keep in mind when shopping for a shirt. But like many things, once you find a combination that you like (brand & weave… maybe a yarn weight) for certain occasions & reasons (casual vs. formal), you’ll know what to look for in the future. Go forth! Eyes ever open, to that big world full of shirts that awaits you…
About the author: Chris (aka Bruschetta) is an America-born university researcher and teacher based in Glasgow, Scotland, as well as a moderator on Threads. His sense of style is inspired by a childhood dressed in Ivy league trad, and the fact that he is enormously well bred.
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