Some questions are better answered publicly since others might be asking the same thing, or, one of you has the perfect answer. If you’ve got a style tip, question, or anything else you’d like to pass along, you can send those in here. If you’d rather your question not be featured in a future mailbag, just go ahead and say so in your email. Feel free to hit the comments with other options for answers to this most recent batch of questions. Top Photo Credit: Tracy O.
Q: Thoughts on Miro Watches?
I came across this website and thought that these watches might be up your alley. I think that they look great but would be interested in reading your thoughts on these. They cost around $200. – Ben
Well then. Looks like Skagen has some Scandanavian competition. This new Swedish brand has only been around since November, and they’ve got the looks-thing down pat. Appears they’re Miyota Quartz (CoolHunting claims the quartz over here). 40mm case size, 20mm lugs, and a water resistance of 50m. Hardened mineral crystal that’s slightly domed. The alternative would be to spend $85 more and get a Miyota Automatic movement in this Steve Alan watch which happens to come with a Horween cordovan strap. Or, get a Bulova
Q: Very Slim Pants for a Business Casual Office?
I’m going to be spending the next 6 months or so in North Carolina for work, and really need some new work pants. It’s a business casual environment, and I seem to be pretty set on shirts. I am very slim, so finding inexpensive slim fitting pants can be a challenge. – Jeremy
Even though fits have gotten slimmer over the last decade, very-trim fellas like Jeremy still have limited options when it comes to pants that fit close to their thin frames. Give the GAP’s Skinny Fit Tailored Khaki a shot. 100% cotton, smooth enough for work, and they’ve got a couple of shades with character (like avocado and that more intense blue on the right). Codes will be available. Two pairs tip the $50 free shipping balance, and they return free in store. For those of us with more meat on our legs… just thinking about trying to squeeze into a pair of these will lower the sperm count. Other options: maybe the Dockers Alpha Khaki
Q: Toss Up: Allen Edmonds Strand or Fifth Ave.?
I’m on the hunt for some oxfords and I’m looking at the AE Strand and Fifth Avenue, both in brown. I wear mostly slim khakis at work and would like your take on versatility. You have any experience with either shoes?
Fifth. Traditionally, the more brogueing you have going on with the shoe, the more casual it’s supposed to be. But the Strand? That’s a LOT of shoe. So while yes, it’s more casual than a whole-cut super sleek number, all that detailing draws the eye down to the feet. The Fifth blends in a little more. You can ignore em’ just a touch. They stand out quietly. They’re a true oxford with closed lacing, yet they’re in the ballpark of the Kenilworth which looks great with jeans. And now, let me channel the ebay crowd: “Y’know, you can get both pairs for the price of one used on ebay.” Sometimes. And shop carefully.
Q: Have you heard of Gustin Jeans? Made in the USA Selvedge for under $100!
I don’t know if you saw Gustin Jeans Kickstarter project, but it was tremendously successful selling made in SF selvage jeans for $81. They’re now selling through their website in a variety of denims. I missed out on the kickstarter project, but fully intend to pick up a pair now that they’re online. – Matt
It’s always good to see a massively successful Kickstarter project, and this one absolutely falls into that category. They’ve now carried that model (waiting to reach a certain level of support before production) into independent e-commerce. Looks like they’ve got just a bit under two weeks left on two pairs of jeans with some availability to support. But full honesty? I, personally, still don’t “get” selvage. And I think there are plenty like me out there. I mean, I know what it is, but… Levi’s 514s or 501s have yet to treat me wrong. But, to get a made in the USA premium pair for around twice the cost could very well be worth saving up for to see what all the fuss is about. Thoughts from you denim heads? Is this one of those things that once a guy tries it, he never goes back? To Quote M… “impress me“. (Not meant in a snarky tone, seriously, plenty of us may want to be convinced)
Q: Mixing patterns. Herringbone and Gingham?
I bought a Banana Republic tailored fit blazer with a herringbone pattern. But now I’m finding myself hesitant to wear it with patterned shirts (like gingham, plaid… etc.). Should I be worried about this? Here’s a picture of one of the shirts I’d like to wear with it. – Harrison
When it comes to mixing patterns, it’s all about maintaining noticeable difference between the patterns that are layered next to each other. In size, boldness, and the shape of the pattern itself. Otherwise, it screws with your head. There should be a clear visual break between your layers. That way a person’s brain won’t have to hit overdrive attempting to figure out just where your shirt stops and your jacket begins. If those checks on Harrison’s shirt were smaller, then it’d get hairy quick. Worn with solid pants or jeans? It’ll look great. Medium sized squares + small lines making v shapes = good. More over here, complete with a chart.
Got a question or a style tip? Send them in here. Additional answers to the above questions can go in the comments.
You just missed a 30% off suiting sale.
yeah…i realized…issue is they call it an “event”, and i had just come off sticker shock of 1000$ for work wardrobe
“And now, let me channel the ebay crowd: ”Y’know, you can get both pairs for the price of one used on ebay.” Sometimes. And shop carefully.”
My used Strands are on the way. Return policy intact. Fingers crossed. Hopes high.
I would say the primary appeal of selvage is that it hearkens back to earlier days when. Although it may often be seen as a mark of quality, Selvage in and of itself means nothing in terms of quality. You can make lousy selvedge denim, but it’s a little harder to do, if only because it’s woven on narrower looms which means it takes a little longer to weave the same square footage. So there are some crummy selvage denims out there, but there are also some really nice premium selvage denims. Selvage is cool, but it’s not the end all-be-all, and it is certainly possible to get a non-selvage denim that is equal to or greater than the quality of your average selvage denim.
Levis 501s have always done well by me, but they used to be better, and they used to be made in U.S.A. Made in U.S.A. is a priority for me, so I will pay a bit more for it. Levis barely makes anything in the U.S. Gap doesn’t make ANYTHING here. Gustin is doing it, and doing it at the price of Levis and Gap’s premium imported jeans. So I’m pretty excited about that. I also think it’s cool that they are doing it in San Francisco. Levis and Gap both have their roots in that city, but neither of them make any Jeans there anymore.
I’ve previously been warned off used AEs before, because the cork soles will be so heavily conformed to the foot of the original owners. Anyone want to chime with their experiences? I’m still a little wary of buying shoes second hand.
On Gustin: I wear jeans maybe twice a week, so I feel that I only need one or two nice pairs. I am really happy with Gustin so far. They are providing frequent updates and have been easy to communicate with when I have had questions. I read a review and that has made me very happy to have ordered. I am sure I will do a writeup in the forums when my pair arrives.
On the AEs: I have purchased 3 pairs off Ebay and a pair from the outlet. All three pairs have been fantastic. For the work place I would go with the 5ths.
I am quite thin and my favorite fitting pant is the Emerson chino from BR. They fit my frame perfect with not being too tight or loose. I’m sure the gap versions will fit similar with a cheaper price tag.
501’s, 514’s and 511’s are all great cuts of jeans. I own two pairs of selvedge 511’s. There is a difference in materials and quality though – the fading is not not as nice on regular 511’s and the raw color is nicer on the selvedge too. But let’s just drop the argument about the heritage of the material and all that jazz cause who cares? The real draw is fit/cuts that the premuim selvedge denim companies are doing and until you go to a real denim store with a large selection(like Barney’s Co-Op or Brooklyn Denim Co.), it’s hard to grasp this. It still is expensive as hell – I won’t deny that. But I know from my conversations with a lot of other dudes that they hate shopping for jeans but they always feel like they’re settling for… 501, 514, 513 and 511. Baldwin Henley’s. Try those bad boys on and you’ll see what’s up. All that being said… I love 511’s and if you don’t got the scratch(or just think it’s crazy) to spend a $100 or more on jeans, that is beyond cool. Getting props from denim nerds is the absolute least of anyone’s concern.
I have a few pairs of ebay AEs and have not noticed that.
^^ Same here, and worse comes to worse you can send them in for absolute and complete refinishing (hot cork included) for half the price of a new pair. I think it boils down to how much to you like the used pair you are buying.
Banana Republic has some nice slimmer fitting chinos. I have a pair of the Emerson cut and a pair of slim cut. Both are very nice.
I ordered a pair of Gustins to see what this raw selvedge stuff is about. I should be getting my pair in a month. I’m a little worried about the fit. I went with slim, hoping it isn’t too slim….
the Gap slim fit tailored khakis are awesome, I’m actually wearing a pair at work this very instant. The fit is almost identical to Levi’s 511s, I’m 6′ 175lb wearing 33×30 (I prefer no break). Really comfortable, great in heat/humidity. My soccer legs don’t leave a lot of room in the thigh or calf, but that goes for any pair of tailored pants I own, so a slimmer dude shouldn’t have problems in these at all.
My gap basic brown belt (well loved by joe) is made in the usa.
On the question of whether the Strand or Fifth Ave. is the more versatile pair of AEs:
I understand Joe’s argument that the Fifth is a more conservative shoe and is therefore more appropriate in a traditional setting. Clearly, in such an environment, the idea of drawing attention away from, say, your work and toward your feet is a little off-putting. However, I think this only makes the Fifth more versatile if one of the primary places you intend to wear the shoes is one of these environments. If you work in a less formal office—which could be the case even if you work in a field where formality is traditionally considered the norm—I think the Strand is equally appropriate and just as versatile.
To me, the brogueing on the Strand is the equivalent of a wearing a patterned or brightly colored shirt, tie, or pocket square. Not every business setting deems this kind of styling inappropriate. Sure, some offices frown on anything more out-of-the-box than a gray or navy suit with a white or blue shirt and a solid silk tie. But nowadays, especially if your office skews younger, a little expression is allowed and encouraged. In which case, especially if the original questioner is style-forward enough to wear a slimmer fit khaki, the Strand might be the way to go.
I wear my walnut Strands to work and to the bar. I wear them with suits, chinos, or jeans. I chose them over the Fifth because they stand out. With the exception of a gingham shirt every now and again or a chunkier knit tie, most of my wardrobe from the ankles up is fairly conservative. I like that the Strands make my presentation a little flashier and less serious. It allows some of my personality to come through, which is, I think, a big part of choosing what to wear.
That said, the real question isn’t so much one of versatility but of appropriateness considering the type of setting you find yourself in most often. If you work in one of those places that looks down on anything remotely flashy, then the Fifth is the way to go. If you work in place where people are comfortable wearing/mixing patterns or colors, or in an industry that is more open to these sorts of things, then the Strand is just as versatile and just as appropriate.
I ponied up for the Bonobos attempt at premium selvege denim — it was my first (and probably only) — pair I’ve ever bought. What has struck me the most about them is that they have conformed nicely to my body, so they are extremely comfortable now (about 8 months in). However, I wasn’t anticipating how much /heavier/ the material is. They are almost unbearably heavy for the late spring/summer months if I’m going to be outside at all. My JCrew Factory Urban Slims (wearing today), on the other hand, look almost identical from outward appearances, cost me $30, and the “cheapness” of the denim actually makes them more comfortable for the current weather. Go figure.
I did not know that! Everything I’ve ever checked from them has been imported, but they don’t list the country of origin on their website, so it’s easy to assume that everything is imported. I have found that belts and socks generally tend to be easier to find in domestically manufactured versions. Pants and shirts seem to be getting more common just in the last year or so. So that’s nice.
Selvage denim can be found in all weights from super light 8oz, on up to 21oz. Many manufacturers don’t list the weight. Levis almost always does and it varies by wash. 501s for instance currently come in weights ranginf from 9-12.5oz. Upscale selvage brands almost always specify the weight. I have a pair Bonobos jeans which are made from 12.5 oz Cone Mills White Oak non-selvage denim. That’s comparable to the heaviest Levis. If you want to give selvage another shot, Gustin currently has an 11 oz Light Italian denim for less than half of what Bonobos gets for their selvage line. It’s also lighter in color than the deep indigos I prefer, but it might float your boat.
I think their slim fit is pretty moderate, but I would recommend you lay your best fitting pair flat and take a measuring tape to them and compare the measurements to the charts on their sizing pages. Still time to change the size on your order before they are made.
”Y’know, you can get both pairs for the price of one used on ebay.”
It’s crazy that you would say that. I actually brought both of those shoes used on ebay for less than the price of one. I plan on getting them reconditioned so it should work out.
Definitely thinking about pulling the trigger on a pair of those Gustin jeans, that seems like a great price to me for some made-in-the-USA selvage. And I’ve been meaning to try out another pair of true selvage since I started breaking in my Scotch and Sodas…
Aaaaand great success! They arrived and are beautiful. I like wearing them around the place just for fun.