Your coat is important. Since it’s the outermost layer and you only have one or two for cold and wet weather, it’s going to see a lot of work. You’ll want to make a bit of an investment here if possible. We’re all used to seeing men mail it in when it comes to their outerwear. Ski jackets, shin length overcoats two sizes too big… a bad coat is like a bad suit. It can make a guy look unfairly off.
Find the right coat though, and you’re likely to hear plenty of unsolicited compliments. Usually that’s a great thing. Sometimes it’s not. For example, I had this conversation last week with a pretty, young cashier at a nicer retail store, who took notice of my favorite trench:
Her: I have to say, I really like your coat.
Me: Thank you. Some people call it my Inspector Gadget coat.
Her: (confused look on her face.)
Me: Wow. This is going to be the first time I’ve ever told someone that they might be too young to remember something from my childhood, but… you might be too young to remember Inspector Gadget.
Her: (eyes widen up) Oh! No, I was just a kid, but I remember.
Me: Ah good, because I was about to feel really old…
Her: Yeah, Matthew Broderick was great.
Me: …..
You want your coat to look good but also be plenty functional. It needs to keep you warm, dry, and repel snow, rain, and the occasional unintentional ageist slam that makes you feel like a pile of dinosaur bones. Any of these should fulfill those requirements, all while looking sharp and coming in at a decent price:
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Schott Slim Fit Wool Peacoat – $250.00
An annual favorite. Standby for a full in person on this one. A legendary name that’s synonymous with quality and made in the USA (even though their slim fit is made in Canada.) Also available in black, but one of the advantages a blue or grey coat will have over a black, is that brown shoes look equally as good as black shoes with a grey or blue coat. Also comes in a standard fit that’s made in the USA.
Indochino Camel Coat – $349.00
For $50 less than J. Crew’s Mayfair Topcoat, Indochino will build you a coat to your custom specs, ship it to you for free, and pick up the tab on up to $75 in final tailoring costs in case you want to get it extra dialed in on it’s arrival. You also get to pick the color of the lining and the lapel style. Ticket pocket is also up to you. It’s an investment, but with a lack of camel coats so far this year, the Indochino delivers all the extras.
Express Water Resistant Wool Blend Peacoat – $278 (but can be had for $203)
Every year Express makes one or two simple coats. This one hasn’t found its way into all of the brick and mortars yet, so an in-person hasn’t happened yet. But, it sure looks like they nailed the mid-thigh length. Double breasted and 60% wool with the rest of the synthetic blend offering some water resistance. Button belted cuffs but no epaulets, which is actually a nice bit of detail restraint on the part of Express, since epaulets might have been a little much.
INC Double Breasted Glen Plaid – $79.60* ($99.50)
This one has potential, but needs some work. It’s cotton so it won’t be all that warm, but there’s some good weight to it. It fits a little boxy off the rack and could use some tapering by your tailor. There’s a lot of details on it (too many?) between the epaulets and buttons on the front pockets. Might be a great option for the shorter guys since it’s pretty short in the drop for those of us who are average height or taller. *Use the code PRESIDENT for this price. Ships free too since the code gets you free shipping over $75 (as well as 20% off) through 10/20
J. Crew Authentic Bayswater Peacoat – $255.00 – $295.00
It’s almost a cliche to praise a peacoat from J. Crew, but between the fabric, the tan lining, and the high armholes, this one is a step farther than pretty nice. Couple of drawbacks: It’s not going to be all that much longer than your sportcoat or suit jacket length, and it’s expensive. Good news for the tall guys since they do offer this in tall sizes. Great arms and shoulders. Accentuates your V shape without going overboard.
Gap Wool Jacket – $98.00
If you’re set on a longer coat like a mid-thigh peacoat or topcoat, but want something shorter and more casual for after work and running around town on the weekends, it’ll be hard to beat this option from Gap. The fit is surprisingly good. Trim but not tight, and doesn’t look boxy. There’s this odd ribbed back neck bib thing, but once you put the coat on it doesn’t look bad or feel bad. The material is oddly nice for a jacket that can be had for $70 on sale. A bargain bomber-style option for those that don’t want to shell out for a J. Crew University coat.
Nautica Wool Mix Peacoat – $119.99*
($250)
Hold out for a One Day Sale or another Men’s Wardrobe Sale, since this was listed in a catalog for $99. Up close view here. A 52% wool, 40% polyester, 5% rayon, 3% “other” blend. Your guess is as good as mine as to what the “other” is. Plutonium? Mid-weight fabric, quilted interior, and a perfect length. Made in the not so wintery Dominican Republic. A solid budget option if you can get it for around $100. *Use the code PRESIDENT for this price. Ships free too since the code gets you free shipping over $75 (as well as 20% off) through 10/20
UPDATE: These are over at Overstock for around $90. Credit to Perry for sending in the style tip.
Tommy Hilfiger Performance Rain Trench – $119.99* ($250.00)
Two things: #1 SIZE DOWN. I’m wearing a small in these pics and I would have been swimming in a Medium. Hilfiger stuff is still, for the most part, running big. And #2 DON’T PAY RETAIL. It’s Macy’s, so always buy on sale. A coat mainly for the guys in warmer climates who just won’t see snow, but maybe some rain and want to stay warm and dry. Comes with a removable plaid lining. It’s a single breasted mac that fits a little boxy, but doesn’t poof out too bad through the middle. All poly, but leans much closer to waxed cotton then windbreaker nylon in texture. *Use the code PRESIDENT for this price. Ships free too.
Topman Light Grey Wool Mix Trench – $200.00
A love hate coat. Not for everyone and requires more panache than most of us care to outwardly display in public. Without the neck buttoned all the way up and, say, the belt tie at the back, it’ll just look like a longer light grey wool coat. But certainly isn’t a standard peacoat. 63% wool and ships free.
Banana Republic Black Wool Top Coat – $187.50*
($250.00)
The best of the lot so far. To put it in perspective, I’ve never been a fan of single breasted longer coats on myself. I like my winter coats double breasted as much as I like my suits single breasted. But this coat is nails. Here’s why:
- It’s distinguished without being stuck up.
- It’s simple without being boring thanks to the angled chest pocket, slick ticket pocket, and striped lining.
- It has a good length without looking like you’re wearing a blanket.
- It’s fitted through the sides but has room to layer under.
- There aren’t any superfluous details like epaulets or zippers.
The covered placket means you don’t see the buttons when it’s closed, which makes a surprisingly big difference for its looks. The open V dips lower than a peacoat, but that means you’ll get to wear a scarf all the time. 80% wool, 20% poly, and can be had for a song on sale. *Use code BROCT25 for 25% off to get this price.
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Post Coat Purchase Final Thoughts
- Get a wide shouldered suit jacket hanger – Don’t just hang your new coat on a hook. When possible, hang it on a wide shouldered hanger so the neck of your jacket doesn’t get messed up over time.
- Buy some lint rollers
– With winter comes static & lint. You’ll want to roll off before heading out for a big date.
- Make sure you have room – It has to be slightly bigger to accomodate your layered clothes underneath. Most jackets are cut slightly larger for this purpose, so when possible avoid going a full size up. Wear a blazer to the store. You’ll need some space, but don’t want to look like a linebacker.
- When in doubt, go mid-thigh – Not covering your knees, but more than an inch past your blazer.
- Store it Properly in Spring – When spring comes back around, you’ll want to have your coat professionally cleaned, then store it an a moth-proof area with some cedar around it just in case.
It’s still somewhat early for heavy coats, but additions to the list are certainly welcome in the comments section .
I would like to know where to get the clothing on the cover photo
that is one hell of a tie! where did you get it?
I think you broke the BR website with your recommendation.
You’re usually dead on Joe, but this is kind of yawn all the way through, until the BR topcoat. Nailed it with that one. Where’s the dark plaid peacoat from the post a few weeks back? It was stellar too. http://dappered.com/2011/09/would-you-wear-it-the-plaid-peacoat-and-trench/
A little expensive yeah, but good outerwear is worth the money. Save an extra week or two, and it’ll last you twice as long.
If you’re in Manhattan, Uniqlo has what I think is an amazing toggle coat right now in camel and navy for $129. I can’t vouch for the quality (I haven’t bought one because I purchased a J.Crew University Coat on sale at the end of last season), but if you want a unique, slim, good-looking coat for a ridiculously cheap price, this fits the bill.
Sometime the links act flaky. In these cases I’ll go to the main website or department page and then navigate to whatever Joe was originally linking to. You usually can still apply the code that was provide during checkout.
Forgot to add:
http://bananarepublic.gap.com/browse/product.do?cid=32658&vid=1&pid=875022&scid=875022002
I have been eyeing a peacoat by Fidelity that is trim like the Schott and sold in a local store for $200, and is made in the U.S.. I can’t seem to find the same style online though, just thought I’d share the brand as there are styles of theirs starting at $110 (http://fidelitypeacoat.com), though the style number doesn’t match the one I tried on.
Do you wear your Inspector Gadget trench much in winter, Joe? I just bought a vintage Burberry trench on the cheap. I know they’re marketed as rainwear these days but this one has the classic removable wool liner and collar for added warmth.
Does anyone have an opinion on whether wearing a khaki-colored trench coat is some kind of faux pas in winter.
Joe – can you add the sizes that you’re wearing in each coat? It may be helpful to some of us with similar builds
Target also has a pea coat into colors. I got mine in Heather last year for Winter in DC and it was great.
http://www.target.com/p/Meron-Men-s-Peacoat-Ebony/-/A-13460252
http://www.target.com/p/Meron-Men-s-Peacoat-Charcoal-Heather/-/A-13460250
Agreed. Plus, I can add that the quality of the coats from Uniqlo are top notch. Matter fact, the quality of almost everything from Uniqlo is top notch for those prices.
I have a khaki-colored cotton peacoat that I plan on being my go-to coat when it gets cold (I do live in the south, there isn’t much use for a heaving wool coat). It’s a pretty classic design with nothing over the top or trendy so I believe it will stand out a bit due to not being dark, but in a good way.
The BR Coat looks amazing. Well Done Sir.
Oh, maybe a yawn to you (and others), but here me out here. A coat is a foundational piece that sees a lot of wear. So the louder/more “interesting” you get, the harder it can be to pair up, wear, and last when it comes to being in style. There’s a reason why we don’t drive striped cars, y’know?
There are a lot, a LOT of bad basic coats out there. I’m a bit of a minimalist myself, but all of these deliver for the money. For instance, that Nautica is lightyears ahead of a similar model I tried on at JCPenny, that just looked like a blanket. And the J. Crew’s interior lining and high arm holes makes it 10x the coat (for 5x the price) of say, something you’d find at Kohl’s. Same goes for the Hilfiger rain coat.
Per the BR plaid. Tried it on: http://dappered.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/BRPlaid.jpg and while I did like it, for $300 retail, most of us better love it. And it came up short for me. Especially when compared to the more traditional wool top coat.
How ’bout this. It’s early on in the season, and not everything has showed up yet. Maybe a list of “louder” coats later on?
Mother… That’s annoying. Sorry ’bout that. Fixed. And thanks to Mo for the direct link below.
Or, um. Above. Up there ^
Oh, maybe a yawn to you (and some others), but hear me out here. A coat is a foundational piece that sees a lot of wear. So the louder/more “interesting” you get, the harder it can be to pair up, wear, and last when it comes to being in style. There’s a reason why we don’t drive striped or plaid cars, y’know?
There are a lot, a LOT of bad basic coats out there. I’m a bit of a minimalist myself, but all of these deliver for the money. For instance, that Nautica is light-years ahead of a similar model I tried on at JCPenny, that just looked like a blanket. And the J. Crew’s interior lining and high arm holes makes it 10x the coat (for 5x the price) of say, something you’d find at Kohl’s (also stopped there.) Same goes for the Hilfiger rain coat.
Per the BR plaid. Tried it on: http://dappered.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/10/BRPlaid.jpg and while I did like it, for $300 retail, most of us better love it. And it came up short for me. Especially when compared to the more traditional wool top coat.
How ’bout this. It’s early on in the season, and not everything has showed up yet. Maybe a list of “louder” coats later on?
Sure thing, as usual: http://dappered.com/2011/07/joes-measurements/ they’re all medium unless specified (like the Hilfiger Trench)
I was wondering if I should make a note of that stuff. Here we go:
Tie – Nautica Heritage: http://dappered.com/2011/09/pretty-close-to-perfect-ties-nauticas-heritage-collection/
Shirt – Target Merona Dress Shirt: http://dappered.com/2011/01/slim-fitted-dress-shirt-review-palooza-iii-2/
Coat – A double breasted mid-thigh length number that Express had a few years back and has since been discontinued. Patch pockets on the front, slash handwarmer pockets at the chest, no epaulets. And the fabric is basically bulletproof.
Scarf – Mrs. Dappered knitted that for me for Christmas one year. And no we’re not in our 80s.
Gusto, see above, it’s a new line from Nautica that’s available in Macy’s.
I was wondering the same thing, that’s a great tie. Where did you get that tie?
Sure do if it’s not freezing out. Mine has a liner, but it’s cotton and won’t be nearly as warm / nice as your Burberry. I don’t think it’s a faux pas at all. And if it is? So what. Congrats on the burberry pickup. That’s slick.
I bought the Gap classic peacoat when they had the 30% off storewide sale a couple of weeks ago. I figured I would probably end up returning it, but wanted to give it a try due to the price and specs ($100 including tax, 80% wool). I’m very pleasantly surprised about the fit–it’s a much more athletic cut than I was expecting, and the length is perfect (for me, at least–I do have a very short torso). I also ordered an Express short peacoat for comparison and didn’t like it at all–i probably would have had to take in the sides a bit, and the way the armholes were cut gave me no shoulder mobility. It hasn’t been cold enough to wear it yet, but it’s thicker than I expected and should be plenty warm for DC winters.
I agree with the “lots of bad coats” statement. I live in western ny, snow country, you can imagine the bad plasticy looking parkas people wear to work around here. I wear a basic navy peacoat and scarf, and sadly, stand out from the crowd. And I hate hoods on coats for some reason.
Be nice to see a winter hat piece too. How to properly wear one, etc.
I know I’ve mentioned this before, but if someone is looking for outerwear on a budget, you could do a lot worse than Old Navy’s wool blend stuff. It’s all $100 or less and can drop a lot further with the frequent sale codes that pop up. I tried on a few things a while back and the fit and quality is surprisingly good for the price. I especially liked the duffle coat (having spent plenty of subzero winters in Minnesota and Montana, I’m partial to hooded outerwear).
Joe, I just read your Inspector Gadget anecdote to my wife (we’re both in our mid-20s) and we both laughed out loud. That’s funny…
Second this question. Great tie.
I have one of these from last season (actually, maybe two seasons ago) and have to say – it is very warm (and thick). My only complaint is that it has zero vents in the back, and that even in a small (my defacto size), it runs a little wide in the shoulders. It’s not too bad, and I’m extremely picky, so for most ppl…this shouldn’t be a problem.
Also, just for comparison – I’m 5’11”, 158 lb.
Joe, curious what your thoughts are on the various body warmer/vests out there for layering. J.Crew is carrying a few, but I’ve been having trouble finding other options (read: less expensive). Not exactly on-topic here, but related in that we’re talking about staying warm and stylish.
I have the J Crew University coat you referenced in the comments about the Gap wool jacket, and it is the best looking and best fitting coat I have ever owned. I bought it in a medium slim fit (I’m 5’10 and 170 pounds) and it is amazing. So comfortable and warm and the fit is perfect. Highly recommended.
I nabbed J Crew grey herringbone Mayfair off eBay for under $200 prior to last winter and am very pleased. Worth a look for a deal on an otherwise cringeworthy price tag.
Wow, lots of peacoat love here… unfortunately, I just don’t own that look. I prefer a single row of buttons; this coat from J Crew Factory looks to be a solid deal:
http://www.jcrew.com/mens_factory_category/outerwearandjackets/PRDOVR~34186/99102187662/ENE~1+2+3+22+4294967294+20~~~205+16~90~~~~~~~/34186.jsp
It’s gotten love on the threads and compares well to a $1,000 Burberry wool coat:
http://threads.dappered.com/topic/a-cheaper-burberry-coat
I can vouch for the quality of the Uniqlo camel toggle coat – great fit and simple, clean lines. Wool feels very soft and plush, too, so it won’t scratch when the bitter winter winds finally shoot through NYC.
Not one single Field jacket in the mix?
A little part of me died that day LaMar. There is a massive, massive difference between the cartoon, and the live action done much, much later on…
There’s a couple over here: http://dappered.com/2011/09/the-suggestion-the-slim-quilted-vest/ I like em’. Just don’t let it get too poofy and life-preserver-ish?
Anyone ever get a wool coat altered? I have a black peacoat that fits in the shoulders, but the arms and waist are too big. Trying to decide if it would be worth it to take it to my alterations lady.
i have the same question. got one last year, could definitely use some slimming
The LL Bean Heritage Wool Car Coat looks nice: http://bit.ly/oairJn
Great post! Question (hopefully not too stupid) are these coats sufficient for cold NYC winters? 10-20 degrees, snow, etc. Or should I be looking at parkas and heavy insulation? Also any shoe recommendations, or should I be looking at boots?
Joe, would you be able to measure the length of you br trench (base collar down back)? I have a vintage trench that fits me perfectly, only it’s too long. I am going to have a tailor shorten it but not sure to what length. If you can help me out, that would be great. Thanks.
Nice, had my eye on that jacket from Gap also
Thanks – missed that post. The blue J. Crew vest you featured is the one I’ve been looking at. The others are decent alternatives.
I can’t wait for those Nautica ties to become available online… Does anyone know how long this usually takes?
Joe did you bring in the sides on your Target Ultimate shirt? I saw the measurement at 21 3/4 and that seems like it would billow out pants unless you just wear it with a suit/blazer??
i actually just got it done and it looks great
Unfortunately I have wasted too much time in my life (approximately 5 minutes) wondering why Bob Saget was not case as Inspector Gadget. I never saw the movie, but being in my 30s saw plenty of the cartoon as a kid. I remember being dumbfounded that Matthew Broderick was cast when I saw the movie trailers. “Bob Saget would be a perfect Inspector Gadget” I said to myself. (Now I’ve wasted another 5 minutes on this…)
yea that’s what i was hoping for. I’ve got a wool coat and wanted something different to mix it up with
I would like to know, also. I guess hoods are out unless you’re layering? I’d like advice on shoes as well. It would be nice to find some insulated duck shoes, but I can’t find any.
Yeah it makes me wonder how young this cashier had to be to not even recall the cartoon and only think of the movie?
Somewhere between 33 3/4″ and 34″… very cool that you’re taking a vintage trench and putting your own spin on it. Good luck!
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The Express Peacoat can now be had for $144. They are running a 30% off all outerwear, which can be combined with their “tiered” sale.
In the market for a peacoat–glad I found this site. I am excited to hear your post on the @35:disqus chott’s peacoat. FYI, Bonobos recently added one to their collection for a whopping @350!!!
http://www.bonobos.com/navy-peacoat
Great list– thx Joe! But holy smokes!! Has anyone seen this: http://www.indochino.com/product/The-Commissioner-Charcoal-Trenchcoat wow. If one were to splurge this year on a coat… this would be it! I think I will pull the trigger on this in November.
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In a previous article, you mentioned the Schott U.S. 740N Pea Jacket as an alternative to the J. Crew Authentic Bayswater Peacoat. Are you implying by not choosing the Schott as the best affordable outerwear for this article, that the J. Crew peacoat is superior? I’m currently debating between the two and need to make my decision by this Sunday to take advantage of the 25% off from J.Crew which brings it to about $208 shipped for me.
Oops, spoke too soon. I didn’t notice it as the first. So let me change my question. Given the price of the J. Crew being cheaper, which should I go for?
Boy. That’s a tough one. Going to do a full review of the Schott next week. If memory serves on the J. Crew, it’s a little shorter in drop than the Schott. The Schott covers my sportcoat tail a little more than the J. Crew. The J. Crew has a superior shape through the sides off the rack (to me) and they’re both really high quality jackets for the price. The Oxford Grey on the Schott is an incredible color, and a bit lighter than the almost black charcoal available for the J. Crew. If you’re wearing it more casually, I’d say the J. Crew, but if you’re dressed up more often, I say the Schott. But then again $50 is $50.
I tired on a black wool DKNY pea coat the other day at Milton’s but can’t find it anywhere online. It retails for around $300, if anyone comes across a link and could post it that would be great
I *hate* toggles.
That Banana Republic topcoat is SICK. I want it, really bad.
Thanks, I picked up the BR top coat at a one-day 40% off sale this weekend. Great coat for $150!
Searching for the ideal topcoat, I have tried on offerings from Banana Republic, Black & Brown, Calvin Klein, and Ralph Lauren. The Banana and the Calvin are slimmer fitting than the other two yet still allow a suit jacket to be worn comfortably. The CK is 90% wool vs. the 80% wool coat from BR.
The BR coat has a ticket pocket. The BR topcoat was just marked down to $145 in store – though not online – so if you are considering it, do not procrastinate further.
That other wool coat, the peacoat, is ubiquitous at the malls these days. Every designer has a version of it. The Nautica peacoat plays up military style queues with epaulets and anchor buttons.
The Express peacoat mentioned above is unique in several respects:
* Water-repellant wool
* 3/4 length rather than waist-length
* Slimmer sleeves than similar offerings by other designers
* Non-functional buttons at the collar. Use at your own risk!
anyone have problems with the buttons on the j crew bayswatter pea coat?