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Style Debate: The Solo Waistcoat / Vest

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J. Crew Suit Vests in Irish Linen – $69.99 (reg. $88.00)

And by “solo” that means without a jacket or matching pants.  Not like you’re just wearing the vest and you’re naked from the waist down.  As fetching as some might think they’d look… not a good play.

There’s a reason why suit jackets and blazers make someone look 10x better than a similar guy standing next to him in just a shirt and tie.  They help define your masculine shape.  Even the most well tailored shirts will wrinkle and bulge a bit at the sides.  A blazer or jacket smooths out those lines and streamlines your torso.

Alfani Linen Vest - $28

The same can be said for a waistcoat (read: vest).  Problem is wearing one without looking like you belong in a saloon sporting a handlebar mustache & sleeve garter while slingin’ rye.

Wearing one casually with dark denim, medium or even lighter brown shoes, and a decent button up shirt sans tie underneath is a real easy way to go.  Thanks to plenty of cotton and even linen blend options becoming available, you can ditch your sleeved blazer in favor of a vest even in summer.

But they can still be a tough garment to wear.  One wrong yet seemingly innocuous move (shoes with too much shine, too much hair product) and you risk looking like a wayward waiter or ring bearer.

Let the debate begin.  Are you for or against the waistcoat?  Leave your take in the comments below.
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Indochino Prince of Wales Vest - $99. Available w/ matching fabric back at no charge (advanced options)

Comments

  2. Damn. I don’t even think there’s a debate; this is a great look. I don’t own a waistcoat though–anyone know of an affordable option?
    How’s that Alfani listed in the post?

  3. I’ve been experimenting with the look.  Last week, at a dinner party, I rocked a grey waistcoat, grey check shirt with rolled up sleeves, Bonobos khakis, and a slim red/navy/light blue stripped tie as the accent piece/flash of colour.  Got lots of compliments.

    It’s true that jackets are better at accentuating the masculine V-shape, but think of waist coats as a male corset of sorts… there’s a reason for the draw string at the back! 😉

  4. I do this all the time… Granted I am a college student and live in the middle of Florida. During the 6 months of the year where the temperature is routinely above 90 degree’s this is the only way to keep a professional looking appearance without looking withered by the humidity and the heat. (Also, I sew in six buttons on the waistband so that I can wear suspenders. Helps avoid “belt bulge” and keeps your pants at the correct height.)

  5. This can look very good on some people, but I think it can also go very wrong, e.g. McLovin in Superbad or the groomsmen at some cheesy wedding.

  7. (chest measurement-gut measurement)=a
    (gut measurement-waist measurement)=b

    If a>8, waistcoat = go
    If a<8, AND b<1.5, waistcoat = go

    Measurements are irrelevant if gusto < 0, as "gusto factor" and "costume quotient" are inversely proportional.

  8. I think the matching fabric back what determines if you can wear it solo. The satin back just looks like you have women’s underwear on your back.

  10. I’ve put this on numerous times and I can’t ever get past feeling like I’m trying too hard. At weddings where I’ve worn my three piece suit, I usually lose the jacket at some point, but at 22, I’ve never found a situation where I thought the solo vest was appropriate. I think it looks good, I’m just waiting to get the feel that I’m in the right sitch to wear it. 

  11. I own a few and they have definitely come in handy. They’re great for dressing an outfit up a bit when it may be too warm for a full suit. Depending on the outfit I’ve worn them with trousers & dress shirt or jeans.

  12. I like it.  July may be too hot for gratuitous layering.  But I like it.   

  13. I bought a waistcoat the summer going into my senior year or high school, so three years (I think) ago now. At first it received limited wear (didn’t want to get beat up in between classes), but it’s actually become a fairly versatile piece. It’s charcoal with spiderweb-thin stripes every inch or so, very understated, with a black satin back. with medium-to-dark denim, or even light grey pants and brown accessories, I’ve found numerous ways to wear it. As mentioned, it is a much, much more comfortable alternative to the cotton blazer during a warm summer.

    Just try your hardest to avoid wearing it over a deep v-neck with meggings underneath. I’ve seen it, and it doesn’t work.

  14. The J Crew option is in small medium large… I thought vests came in 36 38 R/L sizes? And even then, is it possible to tailor a waistcoat or would it ruin the material/seams or just be unnecessarily expensive, like trying to alter shoulders on a jacket?

  15. Yea, I’m surprised there’s not more debate on the Vest + T-Shirt combo. And the meggings?  Shudder. 

    Also, can anyone explain why the backs of vest are often not of the same fabric?

  16. The vest is king if you have the kind of paunch that only really shows when you sit. Get the right fit so that when you sit down the vest goes straight down to your lap and Presto! you isntantly look 20 lbs thinner. (Also keep bottom button un-done) If you have an adjustable strap in the back, let it out an inch or so before you sit down, then yank it quick when you stand up and re-tuck your shirt.

    Bonus: Funtional pockets are good for cell phone, keys, cash. Keep that stuff out of your pants for a fitter silhouette and increased comfort in the heat.

  17. Always wondered about that. I’m not expert, but I’m assuming it has to do with the fact that the garment was conceived to be worn under a jacket, and the standard silky-satin waistcoat back would create minimal friction between the two garments. Just a guess though.

  18. I love vests and make sure I have them with all of my suits.  You can switch the vests out for an odd suit look that looks good, and allows you to stand out, if you are smart about it.  IE white vest/tan suit, navy vest/tan suit, etc. 

    As far as wearing it solo, it’s too much of a trendy fashion statement, at least where I was living the last 4 years (South Korea).  There were guys there who wore it and just wore it badly, so I won’t do it.  I don’t want to be seen as one of “those guys.”

  21. I completely agree.  However, it’s difficult to find proper waistcoats without the dumb satin back, at least in the US.  I’m working with a tailor to get a few made as a present for my fiancé, but I do wish they were generally available. 

  22. I would think it wouldn’t be too tough to tailor (especially at the sides), more similar to tailoring a shirt. The problem with jacket shoulders is all of the seams coming together and having to fit correctly and proportionately.

  23. In mid-2000s, yes. Nowadays, you just blend in. And, I see way too many guys look douchey trying to pull that look off. Personally, I wouldn’t associate myself with it anymore.

  24. good point, ben…maybe there is an age quotient in this.

    that said, there are more and less formal vests; some with patch pockets might be a good look for you?  I’ve got a khaki chino one that I picked up at saks off fifth that I dig.

  25. yeah, i’d guess so, too; same reason that the inside of sleeves of jackets have the silkier materials.  without it, the two fabrics (particularly in a heavier, tweed or wool suit) would get caught together due to high coefficient of friction and not lay correctly on your back.

  26. Hmm, how is J crew in sizes? Would a size 38 chest be a medium? And since the J crew option above ends in 99 cents, does that mean final sale, no returns?

  27. I think it takes a certain sartorial sophistication to pull off the solo waistcoat look. By that I mean, if you’ve just discovered the world of “tailored fit” or you get nervous at the thought of a pocket square, you should probably stay away from the vests for a while. 

    There’s also the serious risk of looking like a hipster d-bag if you do something silly like wearing a waistcoat with a t-shirt. A waistcoat is not casual wear. It deserves a good, fitted button-down at the very least, if not a nice tie as well.

  28. A couple other random thoughts… I can’t say I’m fond of vests with their own lapels. It looks too much like you took a blazer and hacked the arms off. If you’re going to wear a vest, even if you have no suit to match it, it should at least look like it could be part of a three-piece. That may just be a matter of taste, though.

    Another point is that, IMO, black waistcoats should be avoided at all costs. I think they are the ones that are most likely to make someone look like part of the waitstaff. A navy blue or a grey in a subtle pattern will look more sophisticated and less like you rented it.

  29. You may not be an expert, but I can’t imagine the real reason making much more sense than yours.

  30. I’m a huge fan of waistcoats and incorporate them into my work and casual wear quite regularly.  Being in the Sonoran desert, especially now, less is more and a waistcoat allows me to maintain a professional appearance at work and step up my casual outfits just that much more, while not killing myself in the 110+ weather we’ve been having recently.  It also allows me to roll my sleeves to help cool off just that much more, which is awesome.

    Only thing is I’ve never really tried to wear a waistcoat w/o a tie…don’t like the look to much on me.  :-/

  31. I wear them constantly at work and when I go out of the house. It is a nice change of pace especially if it is not too cold. Plus I dig the ones with a pocket up top. I always place a pocket square there and it really completes the look.

  32. If there’s an H&M near you, they make great slim fitting LInen adn cotton options.

  33. I use to do the same thing, till about six months ago when my seamstress suggest taking it off from the Express vest.  I was back in three weeks with my other vest.  I would ask to see how much it would be to remove it. 

    Plus I thought the extra pocket was for my railroad watch. 

  34. One of the teachers at my school does this, in part so he doesn’t have to press his shirts.  He does pull the look off well.

  35. I wear a 36 suit and I had to have my small J.Crew vest taken in a bit. If you want your vest to be nice and flattering you’ll probably have to plan on getting it adjusted anyway.

  36. It’s remarkable how much win and fail is in your local H&M, right next to each other.

  37. what’s the “it” you’re referring to? the cinch strap, or a pocket?

  39. I love vests, its a small item that can easily add color, style and dress up an outfit, i wear them all the time over my BOAZ shirts (and kinda like to leave the shirts untucked, it makes it look less formal…). look for vests in vintage stores, there are some great findings there.
    Check out my designer shirt brand at http://www.boazny,com where a unique style meets great fit and high quality!

  41. I’m in FL too, and this has been my exact rationale for the past few years. <3 kindred spirits.

  42. They’re not really ‘dumb’, the satin back is after all designed so that you can wear it under a jacket and it moves smoothly (a rougher fabric like on the front would get bunched up and create friction).
    But you’re right it would be cool if there were options!

  43. I never wear mine in casual situations, but if you work in a semi-formal office, they’re great as an alternative to a suit or even as an alternative to just a shirt (particularly as no-one else will be dressed the same usually!)

  44. Interesting … noticed your vest has lapels, does this make a different to the solo wear-ability?

  47. Great look, but I can’t abide a pocket square in a waistcoat. Pushes it over the edge in my book. 

  48. What about big fellas? I’m 5’11 and 255lbs. Luckily I’m not stuck with a huge beer belly but I got a lil extra love on the sides.

    I was at Burlington Coat Fcatory the other day and I tried on an “XL” (notice the air quotes). My self esteem was shattered after realizing that the waistcoat would never button closed. I like to believe that a very nice children’s waistcoat infiltrated the men’s rack! FML

  50. Absolutely. I refer to H&M’s vest as ‘what made me great’. At $25 it’s very affordable and an excellent intro into waistcoats. After H&M you can’t find much of decent quality for under $70, and good vests can run very high in price. @MagM:disqus get the H&M vest, then browse around vintage and thrift stores–most of my best vests are from goodwill.

  51. This. For all the article’s talk of using a suit jacket or sports coat to create the illusion of a masculine torso, a dude who’s actually in shape and HAS a masculine torso can pull off a waistcoat no problem.

    Pro tip: roll them sleeves up, and consider a tie.