Click here for the first round featuring CK, Alfani Red, and Van Heusen
Fit is everything. And that goes for your dress shirts too. Your dress shirt should leave just enough room at the sides to move comfortably, but not so much that if you take your jacket off you’ll resemble a flying squirrel.
Thankfully there are fitted /trim fit dress shirts out there, but not all brands get it right. They vary in quality, feel, and how much they’re tapered at the sides. Six of the most accessible versions were tried on in person, photographed, and measured. Below you’ll find the results of the second half of testing. Let’s pick up where we left off.
Measurements of all shirts tried on: 15.5 32/33
The Methodology: De-pin, put on, and photograph with right arm hanging relaxed at side to show cloth overflow at waist. Marked where the cloth overflow seemed greatest above the belt-line with a pin. Measured at that point from side seam to side seam to get above the belt line widest point. Please excuse the awful fitting room lighting.
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When you think of Kenneth Cole, don’t you think modern? Up to date? Maybe even a little too stylistically progressive? Then why is he still making more or less traditional fit dress shirts? My mistake since this is, in fact, not from his fitted line. But I saw Kenneth Cole and figured it’d be trim at the sides. Wrong. It was by far the widest of any of the shirts and stood out in bulkiness as soon as I tucked it in. Add on top the cheesy wide tonal satin stripe and this thing is not something I’d want to wear. It is 100% cotton, and the collar is nice. But overall massively disappointing. Be aware that even if you reach for a Kenneth Cole New York, he makes both traditional and fitted dress shirt versions from that line too. Check those tags.
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Unlike the Van Heusen cotton poly blend from last week, this one is at least more than half cotton. 55% cotton, 45 poly. Scratchy. Could be worse, but still. It’s decently fitted at the sides, but the collar is a little too much of a traditional point.
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Murano is the Dillard’s house brand that leans towards the younger male. Their suit separates have higher armholes, and their dress shirts are fitted. Close at the sides but with a little bit of stretch thanks to 3% XLA Lastol, this shirt is thick but feels cool and smooth. The sleeves are tailored trim as well, and the collar is a semi spread leaning a little closer to point. Could be a great shirt to wear without a tie. Plus, it comes in exact sleeve length sizes. No 32/33. You can pick 32, 33, 34, etc. The only drawback? It has a noticeable sheen to it. It’s not awful, but it’s there.
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Kenneth Cole REACTION: D At least it’s 100% cotton.
Geoffrey Beene: D+ Thinking to yourself: “It’s not that itchy” isn’t a good thing.
Murano: B+ If they could just kill the sheen, this thing would be an A+.
BEST IN SHOW: The Calvin Klein French Cuff from last week. Now only if they made it in barrel cuff.
Any further additions to the slim and fitted dress shirt pile? Leave those in the comments section below.
Flying Squirrel Photo Credit: Nikoretro
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