It has gotten increasingly difficult to find good quality, durable, easy to take care of dress shirts which also come in neck and sleeve sizing. A lot of the mid-priced brands have cut costs and gone to more ballpark “alpha” sizing (S/M/L/XL), yet a lot of us prefer/require something more precise. Like a 16″ neck and a 33″ sleeve, a 15″ neck and a 34″ sleeve, or perhaps a 17″ neck and a 32″ sleeve. A medium, a small, or an XL just won’t feel (or look) as good.
“Enter” Brooks Brothers, who were truly the first to arrive, being that they started making men’s clothing over 200 years ago. Through all the changes and ups and downs, Brooks Brothers still knows menswear. But what’s the difference between their flagship stretch Supima Cotton Non-Iron twill dress shirts, and their new more-performance enhanced “Explorer” line? And are they worth the upcharge over more budget department store brands? Off we go to find out…
These are their flagship twill dress shirts made with 96% Supima cotton and 4% spandex for a bit of stretch. The twill-woven fabric has some “oomph” to it, and doesn’t feel flimsy in the least. Some may find the density to be a little too warm for the absolute hottest months, but it holds up great through a long day of wear. Also available in pinpoint oxford (97% cotton/3% spandex) and broadcloth (97% cotton/3% spandex).
Comes in three fits and just about any neck and sleeve measurement combination you could come up with. Lots of colors and patterns are available, as well as multiple collar styles, but the Mid-Spread “Ainsley” collar is what most will reach for.
The Ainsley collar looks great with a necktie, and also excels without thanks to a slightly lower than traditional button stance, as the 2nd button is 3.5″ from the top button. That means when you undo the top button you won’t look too buttoned up, and you won’t feel the need to take a risk by unbuttoning another button (which looks too cheesy & chesty to many of us). Durability feels good too, as they machine wash and dry easy. Most will still want to take a warm iron to them to look extra sharp, especially if your laundry facilities are old/brutal and/or you have a tendency to forget your clothes sitting crumpled in the dryer.
These are their newest dress shirts with added performance properties while retaining a significant base in long-staple Supima cotton. Twill weave only, and the fabric feels a little lighter and more breathable than the flagship 96% Cotton / 4% Spandex Non-Irons. But as the base of the fabric is 81% cotton, these feel and look like a true, sharp and professional dress shirt, instead of some technical fabric cut and sewn into a button up. But that added bit of performance is nice. And most will want to at least give these a shot, if not switch fully to them as they rotate in new shirts down the line.
Lots of colors and patterns. Comes in slim or regular fit (no boxy traditional for these) and lots of neck and sleeve measurement combinations, although not quite as many as their flagship dress shirts. (Example, there’s no 30″ sleeve availability on the Explorers.) Only available in a twill weave and Ainsely mid-spread collar. But the Mid-Spread “Ainsley” collar is what most will reach for. It looks great with a necktie, and also excels without, thanks to a slightly lower than traditional button stance, with the 2nd button being 3.5″ lower from the top button. That means when you undo the top button you won’t look too buttoned up, and you won’t feel the need to take a risk by unbuttoning another button (which looks too cheesy & chesty to many of us).
Durability also feels good, as they machine wash and dry easy. Most will still want to take a warm iron to them to look extra sharp, especially if your laundry facilities are old/brutal and/or you have a tendency to forget your clothes sitting crumpled in the dryer. The slightly lighter feeling fabric can result in a few more wrinkles out of the dryer, but as with the flagship 96% cotton non-irons, I’ve often worn them without any ironing whatsoever (always under a suit jacket or sportcoat).
Both options are pretty expensive at full price, but if you play your cards right and get them during a bulk buy sale, $75 – $80 feels more than fair. They’re a noticeable step up in quality & feel compared to budget brands. The available sizes (with three fits!) should suit almost any body type. And the Ainsley collar with the slightly lowered 2nd button is as good as it gets, worn with or without a tie.
Can’t go wrong with the flagship 96% cotton / 4% spandex non-irons, but the new Explorer line feels a little lighter, while adding some wicking and breathability. Yes the Explorer line is an additional $10 if you buy them at full price, but somehow during bulk buy sales they’re the same total price, once you meet the quantity threshold. And during those events you can even mix and match between Explorer/Flagship shirts.
If they have your size, get the Explorers during a bulk buy sale. If it’s a 3-for sale, get two white and one light blue for maximum versatility and availability. A nice white dress shirt goes with almost everything, and many of us have been in that situation where you go “where’s my favorite shirt?” and it’s in the hamper. Having an extra nice white dress shirt is smart.
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