About the Author: Adam Terry is a thirtysomething business analyst in the construction industry. He enjoys whiskey, watches, boots/shoes, and working on his dad bod father figure.
If loafers are one of the best examples of a style bridge between business wear and casual wear, the horsebit loafer is The Golden Gate Bridge in that it’s an iconic and elevated, elegant design that withstands the test of time better than most others. While Gucci might have created the original horsebit loafer design in the early 1950s, today they are but one brand in a proverbial Mediterranean Sea of options ranging in price from $200 to over $1000 US. Let’s take a look at one of the better, comparative-to-Gucci budget friendly options from Michigan-based Grant Stone.
Available in Bourbon Suede and Espresso Brown Suede.
A slightly squared off toe box make these handsome loafers
lean a bit (see what we did there) more to the casual side.
My pair of loafers in bourbon suede was ordered on a Monday afternoon. The fine folks at Grant Stone packed them up and shipped them out via UPS Ground the following day. My package was delivered on Thursday afternoon, just in time for smart casual Friday at the office.
FYI: Orders over $250 ship for free within the CONUS. Returns and exchanges can be made within 15 days of the order date should your pair not fit to your expectations. Exchanges are free, but returns for a refund will incur a $15 restock fee to help cover return shipping. Shipping isn’t cheap, folks. And Grant Stone isn’t some mega retailer like Amazon.
Score: 5/5 Stars – Easy online ordering, fast and trackable shipping, and simple returns.
Grant Stone has always been a leader in setting expectations for a great unboxing experience. This pair of horsebit loafers is no exception. They arrived in the typical tan Grant Stone box and were cocooned in multiple layers of soft materials to protect them during shipping. Each package gets a set of soft cotton flannel shoe bags, a mini metal shoe horn, a shoe care postcard, a large twill cleaning cloth (or table runner) and a hand signed thank you note. A++
Score: 5/5 Stars – Grant Stone sets the bar for the best shoe unboxing experience.
Grant Stone is simply the best when it comes to unboxing.
Fresh out of the box, you immediately know that this is a well-executed take on the classic horsebit loafer design. For this pair, Grant Stone opted to use a rich brown “bourbon” shade of high quality, water-resistant Repello suede from British tannery Charles F. Stead. They correctly paired this leather with a 360* Goodyear flat welt with dark brown color and a lightly brushed, solid brass snaffle bit for a supremely versatile package that will pair well with a wide variety of menswear fits. I am planning on wearing these a lot this Summer and Fall on those slightly dressier days at the office where I want to take one step above the usual polo and jeans, but it’s still too warm outside to add a sweater or sport coat. I feel like these loafers will pair well with my go-to combination of a Gitman Brothers Vintage lightweight Madras shirt, a well-worn pair of Pure Blue Japan raw denim, and an old snuff suede belt from Nordstrom Men’s Shop.
Contructed from a rich bourbon shade of high quality, water resistant Repello suede.
Design wise, these loafers are very reminiscent of one brand’s Leisure Handsewn penny loafers in that they come up a bit higher on foot and look and feel great once you step inside. These horsebit loafers are on their all-new Campus last and it has a slightly lower and wider toe box. While I do notice a bit of pressure on the top of my feet, it’s not uncomfortable and I’m not concerned about it. Knowing this suede pretty well, I know that given time and pressure, the uppers will stretch and conform to the unique shape and structure of my feet in a few wears. Circling back around to the toe box, the vamp stitching on this pair is both wider and less angular than other brand’s handsewn loafers (or even Grant Stone’s Traveler loafers). Instead of an almond or U-shape toe, I would consider these more of a squared off Gateway Arch style. This makes them slightly more casual and similar to something from Rancourt or Quoddy; these are less dressy than a pair of horsebit loafers from a brand like Carmina or Meermin, so take that into consideration if you’re looking for something to link up with a more formal suit.
Smooth leather soles means less grip for the first few wears, so give it some time to scuff them up.
The rubber heal topper adds a little bit of traction to help with some grip.
Inside, these loafers are mostly lined in buttery smooth kip leather except at the back where the heel cup is sueded to limit heel slip. The leather insoles are firm and supportive and are backed with a layer of cork filler and a steel shank underneath, but this assembly will give way to an almost bespoke fit as the layers compress and mold to your weight and unique stride.
The outsole is smooth leather and will take a few wears and scuffs to properly break them in before you feel like you have usable traction on tile or polished concrete floors. While they’re not as bad as some pairs with rock hard leather soles with no give, they’re also not as grippy as a rubber sole so take it easy for the first few wears. The heel is made from stacked layers of leather and finished off with a combination leather and rubber heel top lift. The rubber bit here does add a touch of traction and helps keep you planted a little bit better than plain leather.
Score: 5/5 Stars – Overall fantastic in design, craftsmanship, and attention to detail.
In terms of fit and sizing, I recommend trying your true-to-size Brannock measurement. Grant Stone says that the Campus last fits true to size and I feel that to be accurate. I tried this pair in a 10.5 D and they fit me correctly in terms of width and length. The instep area right beneath the metal bit is a little tight for me on the initial try on, but this has more to do with my taller instep and it does seem to soften up and relax a touch as I wear them around the house.
Built on Grant Stone’s new Campus last, which features a lower and wider toe box.
For size reference, I consider myself a 10.5 D on a Brannock device (10.5 heel to ball, 11 heel to toe with high arches). For roomier lasts like Alden’s Barrie or Grant Stone’s Leo, I take a half-size down to 10 D. For “true to size” lasts, like Allen Edmond’s 65 last, I tend to go TTS with a 10.5 D. For sneakers, I prefer a 10.5 with Converse and an 11 with Nike, Adidas, etc.
Comfort is always subjective, but I find the initial out of the box comfort to be very, very good for me. The Repello suede upper and kip leather lining are both soft and supple. Add in the cork filler underneath that stable leather insole and you’ll end up with an almost bespoke fit over time as these loafers stretch, break in, and mold around your unique foot dimensions.
Score: 5/5 Stars – Fits true to size for me and they feel very comfortable for GYW loafers.
Soft and supple suede and leather lining make for a comfortable experience right off the bat.
And the cork filler under the leather insole will only add to that comfort as it molds to your feet.
If you’re a fan of Ivy Style and might be in the market for a pair of horsebit loafers, this pair from Grant Stone should be on your short list of options. They represent a good middle-of-the-road choice that focuses on quality design and craftsmanship without breaking the bank too much.
While the overall aesthetic isn’t as elegant as the original design from Gucci and isn’t as refined as a pair from Morjas, I believe that Grant Stone hit the sweet spot in design versatility as these will look fantastic with a wide variety of prep or Ivy-focused outfits. You can dress them up with a tropical wool or linen casual-leaning suit for that warm weather wedding, wear them to the office with your favorite OCBD and crisp pair of denim jeans for a simple business casual vibe, or crank down the formality dial and wear them with a knit polo and chino shorts to a Summer shindig with friends. However you like to wear them, wear them in good health. Cheers!
Avg. Score: 5/5 – HIGHLY recommended. Fantastic value for design and craftsmanship.
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