Miyota automatic movement. Assembled in the USA.
In the last few years the smaller/newer brands have really been making the heritage/luxury watch makers look old and slow. And while VAER has been growing fast enough that it’s probably not right to call them a “micro” brand anymore, their steady rise has brought good designs, convenience factors like quick release pins on straps AND bracelets, and even some of their watches are assembled here in the USA.
The D5 USA Meridian Automatic + optional Premium NodeX Bracelet exhibits all of those impressive attributes. And while it’s not a cheap impulse-wristwatch-purchase off Amazon, nor is it without a few critiques, it has an immense amount going for it… all for thousands-upon-thousands less than a watch from one of the big luxury brands.
200m of water resistance.
Styling is very straightforward. The dial is simple. Black and white, with the visual variety coming by way of a mix of shapes for the indices. There’s a big triangle at 12 (which plays nicely with the triangle at the top of the bezel), a rectangular date window at six, circles at 2, 4, 8, and 10, and trapezoids at the odd hour marks. If that sounds like a lot of different shapes, that’s because it is. But as the coloring is black and white and nothing else, and all of those shapes are placed symmetrically with a twin directly across the dial, most will feel it works just fine. It is not, say, the Longines Hydroconquest GMT, which throws a circle at 6 and 9 but a rectangular date window at 3.
Blends some heritage styling to become its own thing altogether.
The overall feel is some sort of blend of Submariner and Planet Ocean. The knurled edge of the bezel and black and white scheme is a little Sub-like, but the body of the case and its sweeping lugs and chamfers feels more like a P.O…. albeit in a pleasant 42mm diameter instead of the Omega’s cumbersome to some 43.5mm. The sword style hour hand looks cool (and like an older Omega Seamaster), and all of the text on the dial is well spaced and unobtrusive. It’s a combination of styles for sure. But it becomes its own thing in the process.
Stock straps and even the bracelets come with quick release pins.
NodeX premium bracelet is shown on the watch above, and it’ll cost you extra.
Where the VAER really sets itself apart from other <$1000 watches is in terms of its versatility. All stock straps and even the bracelet options come with quick release pins. When combined with its simple black and white color scheme, you can easily bounce this thing back and forth between fabric straps, tropic rubber, a metal bracelet, or even leather. (If you’re not a super-traditionalist and you’re just fine with wearing a diver on a leather strap… as most of us are land-lubbers anyway.)
The NodeX push-button adjustment is well worth the extra cost for a lot of us.
The pinch-to-release quick release at the end-links is also well executed.
The available premium bracelet with the NodeX on-the-fly micro-adjustment is worth the extra cash. This is one of those areas where the big luxury brands are finally starting to catch up. With this push-button micro adjustment, you can easily adjust the length of the bracelet with zero tools. That matters for those who run hot or cold, lift heavy objects and swell up, and yes, on occasion slide a watch over a wetsuit (or rash guard).
Good guts. Exhibition caseback.
The Miyota 9015 automatic is mighty fine movement from Citizen, who clearly knows what they’re doing. It hacks and hand winds, keeps good time, and even has a pleasant Valjoux-7750-like “wobble” if you flick the watch just right. The movement helps make the VAER truly feel like a watch with guts. Good guts. And while Miyota labels the 9015 as “ultra-thin,” the 200m water resistance and domed sapphire crystal results in 13.7mm of overall case thickness. So while the movement may be “ultra thin,” many will have trouble easily sliding the VAER under a shirt cuff. If you want a nicely slim dive watch in this high triple digit/low-$1000s price range, try the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro 300. That watch has a height of just 11.5mm.
13.7 mm thick with the crystal.
Just two critiques, and they both have to do with the bezel. The action of spinning the bezel is oddly “crunchy” feeling. Maybe it’s just the unit I bought for myself, but I honestly prefer the feel of turning my dirt cheap Casio Diver’s bezel. That said, once in position it’s secure and doesn’t threaten to wobble or move off course, and I’ve quickly gotten used to how it feels. But here comes the second critique: The bezel can sometimes look a quarter to half a click “off.” So when that big arrow is put straight up to point at twelve… it often points at what would be 11:59:45. But that’s not unheard of at this price point (looking at you Seiko) and I also got used to that slight misalignment quickly.
Bezel seems a “lick” off?
(Still a very tasty watch.)
I get that some are gonna say “for $600+… get the bezel right.” I also understand not everyone will like all of those shapes on the dial, as well balanced as they are on the dial. But…
…The unflashy and handsome looks, great feel, supremely versatile quick release straps and bracelet, as well as the (available) extra-comfortable on-the-fly micro-adjusting clasp, all add up to a hard to beat combination. Especially if you also value brands who are making at least some of their stuff here in the United States.
VAER is definitely a watch company to (wait for it)… watch.
And their D5 is a hell of a fine flagship.
The Huck team is off on vacation. Which means their big winter clearance is very…
Brooks Brothers starts their winter clearance with an additional 25% off sale items.
Plus a Christmas album you probably haven't heard yet this year. Maybe.
With a focus on holiday events. It's their last sale before their shipping cutoff.
Style choices to make for those times when how you're perceived is critical.
Timex grows into a solid, grown-up dive watch design.