About the Author: Adam Terry is a thirtysomething business analyst in the construction industry. He enjoys whiskey, watches, boots/shoes, and working on his dad bod father figure.
Pricing Note: Like many of their shoes they’ve tagged as their “icons,” the Park Avenue doesn’t go on sale much. But it does during the Rediscover America Sale, which is running now, and hence, the sale price shown above.
Ask any man who is into menswear for some recommendations for well-made dress shoes and odds are good that they will include Allen Edmonds in that list. For many generations, receiving or purchasing a pair of Allen Edmonds dress shoes was a right of passage for young men as they transitioned into adulthood and started a new career that probably required a more formal business dress code. Allen Edmonds is famous for their signature Oxfords; a shoe that could be described as quintessentially American in its shape and conservatively descorated design. In today’s market where a majority of men are dressing down in more casual and relaxed fits, is there room in a man’s closet for a pair of classically formal Oxfords or do they look too dandy?
Their flagship model of dress shoes. Shown in the “Mahogany” color.
Goodyear welted in Port Washington.
HELLO WISCONSIN!
My pair of Park Aves were ordered through AE on a Wednesday, they shipped out on that Friday via FedEx Priority Overnight, and were delivered the following Monday morning. I know that Allen Edmonds usually includes free Ground shipping with orders over $100, but I was not expecting this pair to be shipped overnight (YMMV of course.) Their parent company, Caleres, has a large distribution warehouse on the other side of town, so perhaps that’s why they arrived so fast!
FYI: Allen Edmonds recently updated their return policy. It now states that products purchased online or in store may be returned within 60 days from the date you received your items, assuming that they are unworn, undamaged, and in resellable condition. Factory seconds still have a $25 restocking fee per pair and customized/special make up models are not returnable. But these ain’t those.
Score: 5/5 Stars – Easy online ordering, lightning fast shipping, and a great return policy.
The AE black shoe box + dual compartment flannel shoe bag.
This pair arrived in the standard black Allen Edmonds shoe box. Inside, you’re greeted by your new shoes sleeping in their dual compartment flannel shoe bag. Sadly, there were no spare laces, shoe horns, cleaning mitts, or other items to speak of in this package. Considering the full MSRP of $425 for this pair, you can see how independent, customer focused brands like Grant Stone are taking the lead and building out a better customer unboxing experience when they include items like spare laces, a mini shoe horn, a buffing cloth, and a hand signed card.
I’ll also note here that my pair of Park Aves appear to have been previously tried on. The vamp is slightly creased and the lace facings have minor creases from where the laces were installed, but the leather soles and rubber heels show no notable wear. While these are tiny issues for a review pair like mine, average consumers may have a major issue with this because returning them or reselling them becomes that much harder when they’re not “brand new” in the box and look slightly worn. I’m deducting another point for not getting a fresh pair.
Score: 3/5 Stars – Classic AE unboxing, but wish they offered more at full MSRP. Used??
Slight creasing across the vamp from a possible previous try-on?
Fresh out of the box, these Oxfords look intimately familiar to me. I’ve had a few pairs of Allen Edmonds before, including a pair of slightly too small (for my foot shape) Park Aves and the design hasn’t changed much, if at all, in years. While I’ll always prefer something with a bit more style or flair (I’m a Strand or MacNeil guy at heart), a simple cap-toe Oxford in a dark brown leather is like owning a Swiss Army Knife if you frequently wear formal business suiting or upscale business casual outfits. Think elegant sport coats, crisp button-down collar dress shirts, and pressed slacks.
(Note – as mentioned above, my pair of Park Aves arrived with slight creasing across the toe box and vamp. It looks as if these were previously tried on, although no sole wear is visible.)
Premium European calfskin uppers.
Hide selection is very, very good with no visible flaws or loose, wrinkly grain
This pair is made in a wonderful shade of brown leather that Allen Edmonds calls mahogany. I’m no woodworker, but I feel like this color is a warm, mid-brown shade that leans from chocolate brown in soft lighting to coffee, espresso, or pinecone brown in direct lighting. Shades of brown are incredibly versatile and will pair very well with other earthy tones like navy blue, olive green, khaki tan, charcoal grey, etc. You might even pair these with sport coats that have little flecks of more vibrant shades that you might find in nature during Spring or Fall, like Red Delicious apples and Pumpkin Spice orange. Bet you didn’t expect pumpkin spice here! This mahogany shade is darker than the AE Coffee color and less red than their Dark Chili. This upper leather is cut from premium European calfskin hides and the hide selection looks to be very, very good with no visible flaws or loose, wrinkly grain. I do like the subtle burnishing.
The iconic 65 Last shape. Simple cap toe. Nothing fussy.
Design wise, the Park Avenue Oxford is a conservative design in that it has a simple cap toe with two rows or stitching and is unadorned with any brogueing, pinking, or other design flair. This lack of excessive design details helps make them more versatile in business settings. This shoe is made on the Allen Edmonds 65 last and has a slightly rounded almond toe shape, a bit of a narrower waist, and a nicely tapered heel to help keep the shoes locked on all day. The Park Ave has six blind eyelets with metal reinforcements on the backside to help prevent the leather from tearing. These are closed lace Oxfords, so the “V” space between the facings will vary depending on how tall your instep is and how well the shoes fit your feet. Generally speaking, I look for a good fit to have less than a finger’s width of space between the facings.
Single layer, vegetable tanned leather outsoles.
Details matter and I like the small leather Goodyear welt that traverses around the perimeter of the shoe. The ends of the leather welt come together cleanly; they did a much better job on this pair of Park Avenues than Alden did on my Shell Cordovan boots that cost twice as much! Since these Oxfords are Goodyear welted and have the Allen Edmonds 360* bench welt construction, they can be resoled at the Allen Edmonds factory or just about any local cobbler with the proper machinery when you eventually wear through the single layer leather outsoles.
The 360 bench welt not only looks nice,
it makes them recraftable.
Inside, these handsome devils are fully lined in a tan calfskin. The vegetable tanned leather insole is a thiccc slab of leather and feels sturdy and rigid underneath the foot in a good way. This is the stable base of the shoe. Underneath the leather insole is a layer of hot cork filling that allows the insoles to compress down and mold to the contours of your feet over time. While this sounds like a defect, it actually helps to create a more custom, ergonomic fit.
Fully lined in a tan calfskin.
Vegetable tanned leather insole is a thick slab of leather and feels sturdy in a good way.
The outsole is a single layer, vegetable tanned leather slab that keeps a sleek and low profile from the side. I know a lot of folks prefer a chunkier looking shoe these days for their casual outfits, but this sleeker aesthetic will help keep your shoes looking in tune with formal suiting. Out back, the heel block is made of leather layers and is topped off with a rubber toplift. My particular pair had some indentations made from what looks like hot glue balls or something. They dented the rubber toplift and I found a few of these glue balls stuck to it as well. Very odd, I’ve never seen this before and I’m deducting a point for a QC flaw that should have been seen.
Score: 4/5 Stars – Solid construction and a simple, conservative American design.
Layered leather heel block topped with a rubber toplift and… some stray dimples.
In terms of fit and sizing, I recommend trying your true-to-size Brannock measurement. I went to my local Allen Edmonds store here in Nashville and got fitted before ordering this pair. I would consider myself a shoe nerd, but I’m not a sizing or last expert and I wanted to see how the professionals worked their magic in person first. I was encouraged to try on a few sizes, but we eventually landed on my standard size of 10.5 D as it felt the best all around. These shoes fit and feel correct when paired with my favorite Darn Tough no cushion “everyday” socks. Allen Edmonds notes that the 65 last is a classic fitting last and is one of their longest with a sleek, slightly narrow look that’s a good fit for those with high arches (like me).
The 65 last is a classic fitting last and is one of their longest with a sleek,
slightly narrow look that’s a good fit for those with high arches.
(Translation: try your true-to-size Brannock measurement.)
For size reference, I consider myself a 10.5 D on a Brannock device (10.5 heel to ball, 11 heel to toe with high arches). For roomier lasts like Alden’s Barrie or Grant Stone’s Leo, I take a half-size down to 10 D. For “true to size” lasts, like Allen Edmond’s 65 last, I tend to go TTS with a 10.5 D. For sneakers, I prefer a 10.5 with Converse and an 11 with Nike, Adidas, etc.
Comfort is always subjective, but I find well-fitting dress shoes to be very comfortable after the initial break-in week. The stiff leather insole feels strong and stable, but will slowly give way and mold to your feet as it creates a more fitted and custom feeling after a few days. The space underneath this leather insole and the leather or rubber outsole is filled with hot, granulated cork that will compress and mold to your foot shape in time to help add more of that comfort.
Score: 5/5 Stars – Correctly sized in store and comfort is great for dress shoes.
Wrapping this one up, I think we can say that Allen Edmonds still produces a quality, well made pair of dress shoes in their Port Washington, WI factory. The Park Avenue model is a classic – it looks good today, pairs well with a ton of formal and business outfits, and the conservative design won’t age poorly like some of the more flamboyant or loud designs that are out there (uh, hello.. Shell Cordovan Oxford sneakers?!?). Allen Edmonds is a solid brand and offers a lot of value even in today’s market with prices approaching $450 USD. It’s hard to find a brand that offers so much – items assembled in the USA, crafted from good quality materials, designs that are as timeless as it gets, and various options in a wide variety of sizes, widths, and last fittings. Affordability is subjective, but I do believe that a pair for $300-400 is affordable when you consider that the pair could last you well over a decade if they’re properly taken care of.
I also want to note that a lot has been said in online forums and comments sections over these past few years about a decline in the overall quality of Allen Edmonds shoes. While I did notice some small issues with my pair, I chalk this up to being pre-worn and would like to think that this is not a normal experience. I know that this is a sample size of one pair, but I also like to think that we have to take a step back, zoom out, and realize that Allen Edmonds produces thousands and thousands of pairs of shoes each year. With global communication at its peak, it’s very easy to find a negative review of whatever you’re searching for because we’re more likely to voice our displeasure online before we write a good review for something that met or exceeded our expectations. If the Allen Edmonds QC failure rate is 5%, we’re only hearing from that most vocal minority of users who may have unrealistic expectations. If that’s you, then give them a chance to make it right.
Avg. Score: 4.25/5 – Highly recommended. Classic style, well made, and affordable.
Steal Alert: Allen Edmonds 5th Ave. oxfords for $199. Leather or Dainite sole. 1st quality,…
For the casual get together where the "table" is a plate on your lap, and…
Something Wicked, hugs in jewelry form, a different kind of cupcake, and more.
Blazers in poly/wool blend for $63. Surprisingly great traveler jeans for $38. Lots more. Math…
Hitting the middle ground for the upcoming holiday feast.
In person with Hamilton's new 38mm, quartz powered field watch.