In Review: The Lorier Neptune II Dive Watch

Lorier Neptune II Dive Watch – $399

Note: The Neptune II is currently out of stock, but word is the next gen Neptune III should arrive in late May. Know that according to the Lorier Instagram those will be priced at $499. 

Lorier Watches is the product of Lorenzo and Lauren Ortega who wanted to fill a void they saw in the watch market by creating watches that they wanted to wear. They’ve sought to create clean, relatively inexpensive watches, each of which could serve as someone’s only watch (more in a Q&A, here). I was intrigued by their designs, especially at the price point, and when the Neptune Series II was released early last year, I had to pick one up.

Shown here in the black/gilt scheme.

Currently, the Lorier lineup consists of four models: Neptune, Falcon, Hydra, and Gemini (their chronograph). The first three models all share the same diver-style, 200m case containing an NH35A movement, as well as the same bracelet. Owning both a Neptune and a Falcon, I haven’t found this familial similarity to be a bad thing at all. Note: there are some updates coming for the Neptune and Falcon (most dramatically for the Falcon), which have been covered on Lorier’s Instagram feed.

The Neptune is the OG Lorier model, and the one most recognizable as a straight-up dive watch. It clearly draws its inspiration from divers of the 1950s and 1960s, from the shape of the indices, to the arrow-tipped hour hand, the domed plexiglass crystal, and the large, guard-less crown. There are hints of vintage Seamaster, Submariner, and lots more baked into the Neptune. 007 — this 007 — would almost certainly have no problem rocking the Neptune. (As long as the product-placement contracts allowed him to… did they sign those back then?)

39mm case diameter. Domed plexiglass crystal. 
All very true to the 1960s aesthetics.

First, the basic specs. The Neptune Series II is powered by a hacking, hand-winding Seiko NH35A movement. The case is a more classically-sized 39mm in diameter, and is 12mm thick, without the domed plexiglass crystal. On paper, the diameter/thickness ratio would seem to make for a chunky monkey, but in the flesh, the proportions look great. One of my favorite features of the case is the crown — it’s very large and without a guard. The look matches well with the rest of the watch, and the functionality is great. This is one of the smoothest-winding watches I own.

Puddles of Superluminova are found at each hour index, and interiors of the hands have a good helping, as well. This particular model is the “black/gilt” Neptune, so the hands are a grainy gold, with a similarly-styled chapter ring. There are black/white and blue dial options available as well. A 120-click bezel with aluminum insert caps everything off.

12mm thick case. Bracelet is impressive.

A surprisingly great aspect of the whole package is the bracelet. The lug width is 20mm, but tapers down to 16mm at the clasp. This look really helps achieve Lorier’s goal of having a watch that can do everything, as it makes the Neptune shift into dressier watch territory, if need be. The links are flat, and are fully articulated, so that they can fold flush to each other, making the bracelet extremely flexible. Screw pins hold it all together — unlike the Hensvik, which also packs flat, but requires duct tape. The result is a great-looking and comfortable bracelet. I was worried about it being a hair-grabber (looking at you, Timex Q!), but I’ve worn my Neptune for over a year now with very few complaints.

The whole Neptune Series II package is priced at an extremely reasonable $399. I think this is a great value. The upcoming Neptune Series III will see some changes, including a Miyota 90S5 movement and a thinner case, with a price increase to $499 — still well worth a look, in my opinion.

200m water resistance. 

Sometimes it seems that there are more dive watches out there than fish in the sea, and it feels a bit revelatory to find a watch that feels fresh, even when the details would seem to be so clearly derived from what’s come before. Many feel the same way, as the Neptune is frequently out of stock, but Lorier regularly produces new batches. The latest word is that the Neptune Series III should be arriving in late May, perhaps with a waitlist ordering system to help with ordering frenzy.

Have I worn this watch in water, yet?  Hmm,does doing the dishes count? No matter, it’s extremely comfortable, looks fantastic, and feeling a bit like Bond, whether you’re sitting at your desk or going for a drive, is pretty great.

About the author: Aaron K. was first brought to Dappered by his love of watches, but has found it to be a great resource for so much more. When not reading Dappered, he’s usually relishing being a dad, spending time with his family & friends, learning about most anything that can fly, or taking photographs.

Nice watch. Nice ride!