J. Crew’s Fall 2014 Unconstructed Sportcoats
Sizing Note: Both of these are a size medium on a 5’10” / 180lb frame. No extra tailoring done.
These two are pretty similar. Both are made from cotton, both are sized in XS – XL instead of inch-measured chest sizes, and both are almost completely unstructured. The sleeves on each of these sportcoats are lined, but other than that… there’s no shoulder pads, no back lining, and the only lining on the front of the jackets is made from the same fabric that’s on the exterior.
They’re casual, they’re fall-appropriate, and with the every-so-often 25%-30% off discount, they drop into the mid $150s.
But the corduroy is the real winner here. And not just because it’s a more basic, versatile grey.
J. Crew Ludlow Workwear Unconstructed Sportcoat in “Dark Raisin” – $188
The details on this jacket nails the “upscale rugged” thing. Sure, it’s a blazer, but this is a design that’s got it’s roots in a time when life was a little simpler, when days were spent hand-crafting durable goods… and kids got the Mumps. Right. We’ve come a long way. Anyway, the cotton is dense, almost canvas like, but still moves pretty well. There’s a subtle herringbone pattern to it, and the accent stitching around the pockets pivots with sharp angles, giving it a real chore-coat/workshop feel. Unlined back, self-fabric lined front to keep the interior of the pockets covered.
But, and it’s a big one…
Yeah. Functional sleeve buttons. And the sleeves seem to run a little long. Now, that might be a nice feature so you can push those sleeves up a bit while you’re sharpening your doubleheaded axe, or stirring a simmering pot of boar stew (shot it myself! with a blowgun!), but for those of us who just like the color, the fabric, and the unconstructed-ness of this thing, it might be a dealbreaker.
The tail also seems a little on the short side, and maybe more importantly, it’s also ventless. Another tip of the eight-paneled cap to some workwear roots. Combine that with the long arms and it can look a little unbalanced. Boxy even. But, it’s not intended to look super tailored. Again. “Workwear.”
Bottom line: 80% awesome, 20% awww-dammit, but certainly going to be worth a shot for some.
J. Crew Ludlow Corduroy “Club” Unconstructed Sportcoat – $198
Is it as full of character as the first one? Nah. Is it awesome? Yessir. Sometimes J. Crew’s unconstructed sportcoats can look a little boxy off the rack. Not this one. It’s decently sculpted at the sides, and most will only consider having the sleeves tailored. And yes, that should be easy, since the buttons on this one are NON functioning.
The tail isn’t chopped, and a medium should hit a 5’10” average height fella pretty well. Dual vents in the rear. Button stance is perfect. The wale on the deep (but not charcoal) grey corduroy is on the smaller, yet not tiny side. It’s not some fuzzy 70’s monster, but you can tell it’s cord from a distance. No back lining to this one, self-fabric lined up front, and the sleeves are lined in a viscose/poly blend.
Bottom line: A smart-casual staple that’ll deliver an incredible off the rack fit for many. Plus, non-functioning sleeve buttons. A home run.
Now, beggin’ yer pardon, but word is something big has gone down at some mill in Coloma.
Can’t miss the 5 o’clock Sactown Express.
And i’m assuming you’re wearing the off-the-rack Medium?
mmm. I might have to make that California raisin sing.
Looks a bit too cropped on you Joe.
Bah. Yes. Forgot that. Updated above. Thanks sir!
“The tail also seems a little on the short side… Combine that with the long arms and it can look a little unbalanced. Boxy even.”
Yes, agreed on the workwear option. But, I think that’s what J. Crew is going for here (again, workwear), and some guys might like that look. Not for me, personally, but this site isn’t about my personal style choices, y’know?
Absolutely!
1st post…great topic! My office is in a warehouse though my profession is Engineering Management. I struggle daily to dress sharp and profession appropriate but still somewhat fit in with all the other guys here. “Upscale rugged” hits the nail on the head!
Any magic done by Leeda on either one?
That was an impressively subtle California gold rush reference.
What’s that shirt, Joe?
I’m more curious about that shirt, where’s it from?
Nope. No tailoring done on either.
It’s a thicker chambray from BR: http://dappered.com/2014/02/5-tips-for-pulling-off-the-denim-on-denim-look/
Doesn’t look like they have anything similar right now. This one has a button down collar and one standard chest pocket. Not the dual-work shirt pockets / western style pockets. Pretty standard button down, just in a thicker chambray.
Ah, didn’t see that you had asked first. See the response to BenR Josh. Got it at Banana Republic last winter. Doesn’t look like they have anything similar right now.
You are awarded the “Matchy-Matchy” Prize, for the watch band plus the dark raisin coat. Or is it the “Matchy-Watchy”?
Repost from the Labor Day Weekend sale rundown post, when I saw (and subsequently ordered) the cord jacket:
As Joe thought, I do like this jacket a lot. Nice quality and the color is nice… definitely more like Joe’s pictures than the stock photo though. Sizing (I got an XL and I’m usually a 44L) is pretty spot on overall; the lapels are the usual Ludlow skinny, the sleeves are borderline too skinny in the bicep area for me (which isn’t unheard of in OTR JCrew for me) and the waist could be taken in a little, but I’ll likely leave it a little looser for layering purposes this fall/winter.
Honestly didn’t notice until you said something, but, I’ll gladly accept that major award as long as it comes in leg-lamp form.
That burgundy blazer combo is really, really good looking. Nice styling work!
“Another tip of the eight-paneled cap to some workwear roots.” – HAH. Great, now you owe me a keyboard..
Maybe I could just make up for it by singing “step in time” from Mary Poppins? Man. Bert was the. coolest.
I have never understood the dislike of functional cuffs. I mean, I’m not rolling mine up for surgery or anything, but I’ve always liked them. The fact that there’s a dude in my town who works with them for $20(ish) is probably also a contributing factor.
Also I have long arms.
… Also DO YOU UNDERSTAND HOW MUCH COOOOOOLER I LOOK WITH THOSE TWO BUTTONS UNDONE?!?!?!
With a name like “Dark raisin” I have to ask…is it more purple or maroon?
Joe, are the lapels on the dark raisin color a bit wider than the typical Ludlows or does it just appear that way?
I think it’s good to have differences of opinions and not all agree on a “uniform” or approved style. I’m in your camp and have the opposite opinion than the one that’s always on here…to me, functional buttonholes are another reason to buy, not to look down upon a blazer.
But yes, if you are looking for the reasoning behind it, it’s been mentioned many times that tailoring becomes prohibitive. I see the point of view if that’s an issue for you, and I suppose it’s good to let people know. For me (like you) it doesn’t factor in.
Watch out for that boar stew. It’s radioactive.
Though that does mean it helps cook itself, I guess.
Zachary, I am with you. *Everyone* wears non-functional cuffs. For me wearing functional cuffs (aka surgeon’s cuffs) sets you apart, makes you a little unique. But I guess surgeon’s cuffs are not for everyone: just like how a hard day’s work, standing your ground, hauling wood, and opening doors for beautiful women aren’t for everyone. To each his own, I suppose.
That’s pretty cheap for taking up functioning cuffs. Bravo for that.