J. Crew’s Fall 2014 Unconstructed Sportcoats
Sizing Note: Both of these are a size medium on a 5’10” / 180lb frame. No extra tailoring done.
These two are pretty similar. Both are made from cotton, both are sized in XS – XL instead of inch-measured chest sizes, and both are almost completely unstructured. The sleeves on each of these sportcoats are lined, but other than that… there’s no shoulder pads, no back lining, and the only lining on the front of the jackets is made from the same fabric that’s on the exterior.
They’re casual, they’re fall-appropriate, and with the every-so-often 25%-30% off discount, they drop into the mid $150s.
But the corduroy is the real winner here. And not just because it’s a more basic, versatile grey.
J. Crew Ludlow Workwear Unconstructed Sportcoat in “Dark Raisin” – $188
The details on this jacket nails the “upscale rugged” thing. Sure, it’s a blazer, but this is a design that’s got it’s roots in a time when life was a little simpler, when days were spent hand-crafting durable goods… and kids got the Mumps. Right. We’ve come a long way. Anyway, the cotton is dense, almost canvas like, but still moves pretty well. There’s a subtle herringbone pattern to it, and the accent stitching around the pockets pivots with sharp angles, giving it a real chore-coat/workshop feel. Unlined back, self-fabric lined front to keep the interior of the pockets covered.
But, and it’s a big one…
Yeah. Functional sleeve buttons. And the sleeves seem to run a little long. Now, that might be a nice feature so you can push those sleeves up a bit while you’re sharpening your doubleheaded axe, or stirring a simmering pot of boar stew (shot it myself! with a blowgun!), but for those of us who just like the color, the fabric, and the unconstructed-ness of this thing, it might be a dealbreaker.
The tail also seems a little on the short side, and maybe more importantly, it’s also ventless. Another tip of the eight-paneled cap to some workwear roots. Combine that with the long arms and it can look a little unbalanced. Boxy even. But, it’s not intended to look super tailored. Again. “Workwear.”
Bottom line: 80% awesome, 20% awww-dammit, but certainly going to be worth a shot for some.
J. Crew Ludlow Corduroy “Club” Unconstructed Sportcoat – $198
Is it as full of character as the first one? Nah. Is it awesome? Yessir. Sometimes J. Crew’s unconstructed sportcoats can look a little boxy off the rack. Not this one. It’s decently sculpted at the sides, and most will only consider having the sleeves tailored. And yes, that should be easy, since the buttons on this one are NON functioning.
The tail isn’t chopped, and a medium should hit a 5’10” average height fella pretty well. Dual vents in the rear. Button stance is perfect. The wale on the deep (but not charcoal) grey corduroy is on the smaller, yet not tiny side. It’s not some fuzzy 70’s monster, but you can tell it’s cord from a distance. No back lining to this one, self-fabric lined up front, and the sleeves are lined in a viscose/poly blend.
Bottom line: A smart-casual staple that’ll deliver an incredible off the rack fit for many. Plus, non-functioning sleeve buttons. A home run.
Now, beggin’ yer pardon, but word is something big has gone down at some mill in Coloma.
Can’t miss the 5 o’clock Sactown Express.