Some questions are better answered publicly since others might be asking the same thing, or, one of you has the perfect answer. If you’ve got a style tip, question, or anything else you’d like to pass along, you can send those in here. If you’d rather your question not be featured in a future mailbag, just go ahead and say so in your email. Feel free to hit the comments with other options for answers to this most recent batch of questions.
Q: Boots & suits… what looks right and what doesn’t?
Does the Mercanti Fiorentini Vintage Wingtip boot go well with a suit? For some reason, I prefer boots to shoes when it comes to suits and work wear. I also like slim/tapered suiting, but am not a fan of tons of sock showing. Really looking for something around $150 that will go great with Navy and grey suits. – Andy
Probably not. That pair of Mercs (top) is really a less-fortunate-man’s version of the pricey Allen Edmonds Dalton. And aside from a nubby tweed number, the Dalton can be tough to wear with suits. They’re certainly not work-boot bulky, but they’re still hefty. For suit-worthy boots, look for something lower profile. Also, skip the wingtip blucher-styles. Wingtip blucher shoes, despite what most American men think, a pretty casual looking next to a suit. Make that style in a boot and they get even more casual. Try to pick up a pair of the oxford-style laced Allen Edmonds 5th Street (bottom) during the next Shoebank sale. Or, stick with sleek non-wingtipped bluchers like the J&M Tyndall cap toe chukka. Those’ll go on sale at some point.
Q. Levi’s 508 Alternatives
What’s a good alternative to Levi’s 508’s? It looks like they’re no longer making them, and I need slim jeans with room for my bigger thighs. – JB
Uh oh. That’s gonna make a few fellas unhappy. Might want to stock up while you still can? Levi’s just sent out an email yesterday that said “If you like the 511 Slim, or the 508 Taper, the new 522 slim Taper combines the best of both.” Yeah but, the 511 is quite slim. Most guys picked the 508 for upper leg room. So now they’re slimming that down? They ARE offering free returns though, so if you want to give those a shot, now’s the time. But if they’re combining those two fits, expect them to be tighter. Otherwise, try GAP’s new “Standard Taper” fit (above). They fit like a Levi’s 505, but with a more sculpted leg. So, basically, they fit like a 508.
Q: Out-dressing the boss in a dressed down workplace…
I just recently switched jobs, and have gone from wearing a full suit daily, to now working in a place where the CFO of the company wears dad jeans + a baggy polo every day. And that’s the standard company wide. I’m still in my more dressed up mode and have been wearing tailored trousers, dress shirts and blazers. Everyone always asks me why I’m so dressed up. I don’t want to seem like I’m trying to show up my co-workers, but I’m most comfortable this way. Should I continue doing what I’m doing, or should I cave and switch to what appears to be the defacto company uniform? – Charles
Why not a little of both? Start wearing well-fitting jeans, and pair them with casual unstructured blazers (like the JCF Thompson seen above). If that still seems too stuffy, stop shaving. Keep the beard trim, but embrace some scruff. Or wear a polo underneath your blazers (like UNIQLO’s terrific button down collar options). Dressing well is a tool. It can help you get what you want… not just in terms of your own self-confidence, but also by making others confident in you. But dressing “up” does not always = dressing “well”. If dressing up is producing resentment/jealousy at your workplace, and you like your gig, it’s probably best to tone it down on the job. Is it fair? Nope. But… when in Rome. Especially if Caesar is cutting your check.
Q: Flannel Trousers that won’t drain my savings…
I’m looking to get some versatile flannel trousers for my fall and winter wardrobe. I am thinking something in a medium grey. Do you know any budget friendly versions? Or am I looking at dropping around $200 ish to get a pair that isn’t an old-man-style fit? – Zach
Try Charles Trywhitt and Lands’ End. Those are two places to look when you’re trying to find classic menswear staples that won’t break the bank. The fits might not be super-crazy slim, but with codes & sales, you can usually get something in a straight if not decently slim fit, and then have them brought in more by a tailor if you so chose. Final cost should still be pretty reasonable. These from CT are a little pricey, but they’re English wool, and the reviews seem to back up the true slim fit claim. These from Lands’ End were just $75 with a 25% off code (which expired yesterday, but there’s always another train comin’). They are 30% poly though. Also, keep an eye on the J. Crew sale section for flannel suit pants. You might have to wait a bit, but their seasonal fabric suits always seem to end up on sale, and you can grab a pair of the trousers.
Q: Thoughts on Blazer/Quilted Outerwear hybrids?
What’s with all the blazer/quilted outerwear combinations that are popping up? I’m not sure if I like them, or just find them strange. I saw this in my inbox this morning and was wondering if you had any thoughts on it? – Charles
There once was a time when a tweed sportjacket was used as outerwear. Now that the tweed sportcoat has made it’s way in from the cold, these technical-looking, more modern options (like this one from Massimo Dutti) seem to be filling a small void. Only instead of hammering through the woods on a fox hunt, someone wearing one of these quilted numbers might just be out on a hike, or, taking the subway. Thing is, they are outerwear. So, like other coats & jackets, they come off when you go indoors. Also, wearing one on top of an actual blazer seems a little… odd. So use these like you would any other casual jacket (like a Harrington or a field jacket) and use a trench or topcoat when wearing a blazer or suit.
Q: Lapel Pin Storage?
Where would you suggest one could safely store his lapel pins? – via Twitter
Safely? Hm. Don’t have a bunch of lapel pins, but cuff links are approximately the same size, and those do just fine in the empty slots (with the pillows removed) of a watch box
Got a question or a style tip? Send them to joe@dappered.com. Additional answers to the above questions can go in the comments.
“But dressing ‘up’ does not always = dressing ‘well’. If dressing up is
producing resentment/jealousy…it’s probably best to tone it down.”
Well said, Joe. This seems to apply to so many situations. I live in a small, low-key town, a suburb of Philly, and I’ve found that, when out and about, I rarely, if ever, have the opportunity to “dress up”. If I do, I feel at once alienating and alienated.
Ditto with my work. I work on a college campus, where the dress code seems pretty casual. I wore a blazer (once) and I received so many comments (not necessarily good or bad) that I just took the damn thing off. I hate standing out.
Moreover, my wife prefers to dress casual. In my opinion, a man looks odd when he’s dressed better than his lady. So I keep the scruff, almost always wear jeans, and “dress it up” with a button-up shirt.
The owners of the small company I work for dress casually (ie. jeans, sneakers, and polo or t-shirt). I’m one of the team leads and either wear slacks, shirt, and a tie or jeans and a jacket. For the first few months people commented a lot; but now it’s just how it is. Everyone’s used to it and has moved on.
My goal is to dress intentionally. Know your industry. Know the norms. Know the culture of the company you work for and the culture of the companies that hire you. And then take it up a notch; if you’re too farm from the norm you appear unaware and disconnected rather than professional and together.
I don’t have any lapel pins either, but I toss my cuff links in the little black boxes I get from The Tie Bar. Tie bars come in them. Mmaybe cuff links too, but I’ve never bought any from them.
That’s how it was for me late last year when I started to bring my wardrobe up a notch. I was “on par” with the better-dressed people at work, but people made a lot of comments (some good, some snide) about my changes. Now people just see it as “normal.”
I think if your attitude and behavior remains down to earth and level with the rest of the group, they’ll not think you’re turning your nose up at them by dressing up. There’s a transition period.
20th century silver cigarette boxes are great for cufflinks, lapel pins, collar stays etc. Look for them at estate sales. Most are cedar-lined and come with little cedar dividers. (Designed to separate regular and king-sized.) Price should be about the same as melt value of the silver.
“watch box” and that video… disturbing combination.
I wonder if the new 522 is going to fit like the 513. If so, I’d be all over that — the 513 used to be just “slim” before they decided to call the 514 “straight” and change the 513 to “slim straight.” Problem is, the 513, which is my favorite fit, is now ONLY made with crazy amounts of poly and spandex (we’re talking 78% cotton, 16% poly, 6% spandex). So if the 522 is a similar fit with a heck of a lot more cotton, I might be in for that. (And, for the record, I have 25-26″ thighs and wear a 36 waist. 513s are not restrictive around my thighs at all, though they’re damned near skin-tight on my 17″ calves.)
I’m going to wear my Alden wingtip boots with a suit in the next Friday challenge just to spite this post.
And I’m sure it’ll look awesome. It can be a little tough to pull off, but nothing is impossible. And it’s hard to make a pair of Aldens or Allen Edmonds look bad.
It also depends on the fit of the pant, and the body type of the wearer. Andy mentioned he liked tapered suiting, which might accentuate the bulkiness of certain wingtip blucher boots (like the Mercantis he mentioned). A beefier boot like the Dalton looks better with a suit when worn with more straight fit pants, and/or on a broader fella. Looks less like a stick-man wearing cinder blocks on his feet that way.
One of those rare times that I’m happy to be a broader fella.
Heh. I hear you. Sometimes I look at those J. Crew models wearing Red Wings or Aldens and they look like they’re about to get tossed in the river to go sleep with the fishes.
Do you think they make them wear shoes that are several sizes too big?
Of all the recent fads, the blazer-like coat is my favorite. Something more fitted than a barn coat would be nice.
Oh Christopher Walken. You kill me.
No, they’re just so immensely slender, that when you throw thickly constructed boots on them, it looks a little unbalanced.
Re: Standing out by dressing well.
In my office, men are required to wear shit+tie and slacks. A very large majority of the guys wear the standard Geek Squad uniform of white shirt, black tie, black pants, and black square-toe shoes. Never any blazers or colorful patterns. It’s a real disaster. I’m pretty sure someone died and everyone’s still mulling about after the funeral.
Being a Dappered member and (self-proclaimed) stylish gent, I’m usually pushing the boundaries for what’s considered “normal” for this office, even though most of my wardrobe could be considered camouflage in a Banana Republic store. For the first six months or so I was “called out” almost daily for wearing navy blazers, patterned shirts (standard gingham, plaids), slim fit pants, and “gay” suede oxfords. Yeah. Plenty of harsh push back.
But I didn’t quit. That’s not who I am. Frankly I don’t care if you don’t like my tweed pants or my argyle socks. I enjoy them.
Strange enough that after another six months or so the other gentlemen in my office started branching out as well. We’ve now got ginghams! We’ve got AE Strands! We’ve got Beefroll loafers! Hell, one of our Salesmen bought a Filson bag in a world of ballistic nylon Targuses. The world of men’s fashion is changing and these Neanderthals in funeral suits are dying off quick.
I’m 6’2″, 230. I just like slim suits and pants to show off my muscular buns and thighs, okay?!?!? Leave me alone! 🙂
J.Crew’s urban slim fit and J.Crew Factory’s Sutton fit might be a good alternative to Levi’s 508s. They are slim through the lower leg but still relatively roomy in the seat/thighs.
Same here. I work in car sales, which as you may be aware is a style wasteland. I received a lot of comments when I started dressing more intentionally, but now people are pretty used to it. I’ll still get comments sometimes, but it’s mostly people saying they like it, even if they’ll never wear it.
Seth – I live in Center City and work for a finance company downtown. Even in finance, Philly is not a dressed-up kind of town. In the fall I routinely where dress pants/nice chinos, a dress shirt, and blazer to work and people always say how I’m always dressed up.
Keep wearing the blazer, maybe a more casual unstructured one, and you’ll get used to it. Dress for yourself, not what others think.
Suede is gay?? That’s explains my recent shoe purchases…
Another “dress well not up” anecdote. I work for a t-shirt and jeans engineering company, where the president is the biggest schlub of all. I stand out by just wearing a well-fitting polo shirt, but everyone’s gotten used to it being my “uniform.” I’d recommend doing sort of a “hi-low” thing– If you want to wear a button up shirt or nicer pair of pants, pair it with some sneakers, or vice versa (nice shoes, v-neck shirt? polo shirt?). I’ve bought a few pairs of fun hi-tops recently to bring my style back down without making it boring.
I’m a big fan of suede on suede gayness.
This is what has basically happened with my friends. Gently mocked for my clothing when I started dressing well, yet, progressively, people have been following me.
Yep, t-shirt and jeans here, too (or t-shirt and shorts during the summer). I rock my AE McTavishes with jeans and polos. It’s a good look if you get the colors right.
Just as a point Scott when I buy a car the wall of guys in logoed polos are usually passed by by me for the person dressed like they want $25,000 of my money. I think subconsciously I want to be a guy in a cool car so someone who looks good makes me think that is going to happen.
My last car was purchased from the youngest but most professional looking person in the dealership.
Yep I even sometimes share the shipping with a couple of pals if there is a good sale on. On top of that one of the executives is a great dresser and points out when he thinks I got a pattern match etc. right. Plus as the only guy who wears a coat and tie to talk to a customer it gets me points with him.
Same thing with patterns. I find I get a lot less negative comments if I am less business like and a little more out there because then it is just a style statement.
On the norm, the company principles dressed rather casually and used to say things like “We must be paying you to much” when I would show up in a blazer and odd trousers. After a while, they started coming in like that and now we are one big happy well dressed family.
Once my boss’s boss (at my old job), joked that I dressed better than my boss. That was awkward.
I grew up in the 80’s and boots were very commonly worn with suits. At church, the majority of the men wore slip-on or side zipper dress boots. I think that’s the way to go, rather than more casual boots shown.
I live in Philly also….
Don’t have the luxury of living downtown however even when you go downtown there are a plethora of people male and female who outfits scream dappered…
Tailored suits sleek expensive shoes….
Have you been near boyeds? On 17 and chestnut??
Maybe we’re talking about two different phillies
No, we’re talking the same town. It’s a mix, but from my experience the late 20s-early 30s crowd is better dressed than the middle aged crowd (outside of professionals who wear suits daily). It’s certainly better from when I was out of college and living downtown in 2000/2001.
I have 3 suits and two blazers from Boyd’s but that is where I buy the majority of my dress shirts, ties, and pocket squares. They can be pricey but shop when they have their end of season clearance sales (that’s the only time I go) – those $1400 suits are suddenly $500 and the $200 dress shirts are $50.
Lmfaooo thank you for that gold mine of information never new they had a Clarence like that….
And yea probably… In 2000 I was 10 years old so the Philly then I’m sure was different…
So I’m not refuting anything that you’re articulating…
Do you mind letting me know when there next end of season sale is??(Boyd’s)
I was always under the impression that the only people who shop there were executives, athletes, and rich kids because of how expensive everything is.
But what they have looks so good
Have you been to lands end??? I heard they were awesome, not Boyds price but Boyds quality