How do you stay quite cool while wearing a suit in warm or hot weather? Simple. Wear a lightweight suit cut from superbly breathable linen that’s lined in an equally light and airy fabric.
Right. It’s not simple at all. Most brands will make the shells of their summer suits from linen, cotton, or a blend of those two… but then they’ll forgo a more expensive lining (like Bemberg or even cotton) and instead add a counter-productive full polyester lining. This can get extra stuffy if the suit is stiff and feels like you’re wearing a brick. If it’s a thick, heavy chino that won’t move an inch when a breeze kicks up? You might end up feeling like toast.
You’ll pay for it, but Suitsupply’s new $469 linen suit in their York fit is ideal. Lightweight yet somehow doesn’t feel flimsy, still has a half canvas, and the thin, 77% cotton / 22% modal lining has the feel of a bed-sheet you’d sleep under on a warm summer evening. The pants are lined to the knee in front with polyester. But unless you’ve got thighs that constantly radiate heat (ahem), that shouldn’t be much of an issue.
Their new “York” fit isn’t too far off from a Napoli. The button stance has been lowered, slightly, and the sleeve circumference feels to be a bit slimmer. Other than that, it has the same timeless lapels (3″ here), and shoulders that are as soft if not softer than the Napoli. Side vents in the rear. Plenty will be able to get away without any tailoring other than getting the pants hemmed, but some will want the sides tapered just a bit. Pants themselves are slim with a good but not crazy aggressive taper. It is a true grey, but will pick up some warmer hues in bright sunlight.
If you’re going to be either a groom or a guest at a summer wedding this year, you might want to save up for this one. Even if the reception is in A.C., the ceremony might be in an aging place of worship. Y’know, one with an HVAC setup similar to the subterranean destination that all those pastors, priests, and rabbis do their best to keep you out of (no, not Fraggle Rock).
It might not prevent you from getting sent there, but a suit that’s made this well, and more importantly feels this good, should keep you from looking like hell.
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