Gustin Straight or Slim Fit Selvage Demin – $81 – $99
Shown here: #31 “The Original” in straight fit raw denim. Size 31 waist.
Before we go any further: ***MEASURE YOUR FAVORITE JEANS BEFORE ORDERING***
Why? Gustin doesn’t do vanity sizing. But more on that in a second.
Gustin launched back in the early part of 2013 thanks to a massively successful Kickstarter campaign. Their pledge was to bring high quality, American made selvage denim to their customers, at a reasonable price. Under $100 for selvage is affordable relative to that corner of the jeans market. Under $100 AND made in the USA from top notch fabric with solid hardwear and details is unheard of.
After the kickstarter launch, they carried that same sales model over to their own website. They didn’t make jeans and then put them up for sale. Instead, they produced a prototype, asked for backers, and once enough people committed to buying the product if it got enough support, only then would credit cards be charged and Gustin would go into production. Also, once they hit that tipping point of support? They stop taking orders. So you have to be on top of what Gustin is doing if you want a pair of their jeans.
The hallmark of Selvage. Great red chain-stitch too.
That unique ordering process also means you need to be patient. I backed a pair of their jeans in the spring, and it was two months before they shipped. They arrived in a bubble padded envelope, and it had been so long since I had thought about the purchase that I was pleasantly surprised when I pulled the deep, midnight blue denim from the bright white package.
And then I put em’ on. Or, tried to at least.
Dappered is built upon what’s been learned after making tons of mistakes over the years, and I’m fearing there’s a new one to add to the pile: I failed to measure my current, favorite jeans before putting in an order with Gustin. I usually wear a 32×30 in Levi’s 514s. And the waist is a touch too big on those. So when I saw that Gustin sells a size 31… I ordered their straight fit in that size without hesitation.
Annnnnnnnd I just about gave myself a hernia trying to get them on the first time.
Gustin’s straight fit. Somewhere between a 501 and 514 through the seat and leg.
As I struggled to get these things on, I rushed back to the Gustin website and noticed (for the first time) that they have a fit guide. Unlike other clothing companies that over-size their clothing, Gustin doesn’t do that. And they say right on their site that you should measure a pair of your favorite jeans before choosing your size. Wish I would have read that guide before ordering.
It was like my Kindergarten report card all over again: “Plays reasonably well with others. Does not always follow directions the first time given.”
Sh*t.
Now, word is, raw denim can stretch up to an inch with wear, especially at the waist. And that’s the only trouble. They fit terrific through the thigh and leg. Somewhere between a 514 and a 501 from Levis. But until it does stretch at the waist, the front pockets on my jeans will be just for show. Fingers are crossed here, because aside from how tight these are at the midsection, they’re pretty darn awesome.
The feel of the fabric is pliable, but tough. I’ve never been much of a denim head, never got the “selvage” or “raw” thing myself, but the fabric and finish (or lack thereof) that Gustin is using feels much more historically accurate than the softened up jeans you’d buy at a department store. The selvage ID on the interior stands out when you cuff em’, and most of us will have to do just that… being that they’re only made in 34 or 36 inseams.
Even the subtle, leather patch at the back is made here in the U.S.
There’s one single line of light blue stitching across the back pockets, and a dark leather patch at the waist. Nice of Gustin to keep their branding minimal. Hardware is fantastic. The buttons on the fly have the beastlybuild quality of a fridge from the 50s*.
Have I now been converted to the Church of Selvage? Nope. It’s nice and all, but I’m not much of a jeans cuffer. And while the rawness of the denim is something I think I’ll like breaking in over time, it’s not something I’d actively set out to have multiple pairs of. I was just excited to back a smaller business dedicated to making great jeans here in the States.
So while I’m still light years from the planet of denim-head, I will probably order another pair of jeans from Gustin again sometime in the future. But next time, they’ll be a size 32. Maybe 33.
Why not just return them? Probably could. But, it’ll be good to see how much this raw denim actually stretches out over time. Gustin does accept returns, but their policy seems sort of cloudy.
*Worst, damn, movie, ever.
My oddly-shaped lower half makes buying pants online virtually impossible. Wish I could give it a shot. The “no returns” policy is downright scary to me.
Don’t forget about the referral program to get $20 off your first purchase! Is it okay to post them here?
https://weargustin.com/invite_from/4417
This is timely because I’m thinking about backing a pair of Gustin when I see a sample I like (at the $81 price point) come up; I’ll probably wait for the Japan Regular to come back. Does anyone here have enough experience with Gustin to comment on crotch blow-outs, because that is the single biggest issue I have with any jeans and I’m hoping the more rugged fabric will last a bit longer than the 6 months or so of daily wear that my most recent pairs have fallen victim to.
Also, I second the nomination for worst movie ever.
Joe – I’ve been fretting over my first Gustin purchase. Using their sizing guide and my favorite pair of jeans as a reference (32×34), I ordered a pair of straight legs in size 33. I’m actually in between the 32 and 33 sizes, but erred on the side of caution and went with the larger pair. Now I’m worried that I oversized.
I’m hoping the 33 fits snug enough out of the box, and won’t be too loose. Would you say that your pair was smaller/tighter than advertised?
I’m kicking myself for missing out on the slate that was offered yesterday. They had just started it off and there were only like, 4 out of 50 backers so I figured I’d wait and see if my pair came in so I could see how they fit before ordering another. In one day both slate offerings were fully funded :[
Glad to see how the straight fit jeans fit, was worried they wouldn’t be slim enough. Looks good!
I disagree that Kingdom of the Crystal Skull is the worst movie ever. Aside from the obvious use of hyperbole (it must have been, or are you saying that you’d put the Justin Bieber movie over KotCS?), that movie takes more flak than it really deserves. I’m not going to defend it as a hidden gem; that way lies madness. However, I would say that it was poorly executed rather than poorly conceived. The script wasn’t great, but conceptually it was spot on. They had to age Indy or else it just wasn’t going to work, so moving it to the ’50s makes sense. Given that the Indiana Jones movies draw more from pulp fiction than actual archaeology, the alien angle was a perfect fit. In the realm of pulp fiction, Roswell was probably the single most important event of that decade. The crystal skull dovetailed nicely, connecting aliens with another very important pulp aspect of that decade: psychic Russians. These days, it’s well-known that the Russians were chasing down leads that would make Hitler look reasonable, including trying to harness psychic powers. And in the end, Indy meets the aliens. This is true to the style of the series; in every one of the movies, Indy and friends always come up against the supernatural aspect during the climax, whether it be Nazis getting their heads melted by the Ark of the Covenant, his dad being healed by the Holy Grail, or…whatever it was that was going on in Temple of Doom. It HAD to be aliens and psychic Russians, and he HAD to meet them.
Nice jeans.
They look pretty cool – hardware looks decent and I like the minimal stitching on the back pockets. Don’t like the selvedge stripe on the belt loops though. Kinda glad you got these Joe; maybe it’ll bring some denim culture to Dappered, perhaps? I think you’ll enjoy the experience as time goes on – I was very hesitant and unsure with my first raw selvedge. Definitely did the right thing but going down a size – they’ll stretch out a lot after two weeks if you wear them regularly (and don’t wash them for at least two months and when you do just flip em inside out and do a quick wash with no spin and hang dry). I don’t even cuff my selvedge anymore, I get them hemmed so the only time I roll them is for “humble brags” when I’m trying to not get my jeans wet wading in the ocean or something. Join the cult of denim….
As someone who owns 3 pairs of Gustins (Organic and 2 Originals), I can say that these are jeans definitely don’t make a great first impression in terms of fit but has grown to become my favorite jeans. Upon first receiving them, I was extremely worried that they were too tight at the waist and a bit too rigid in the seat and leggings–upon an initial wash and subsequent wearings, I found them to be much more comfortable after about 1.5-2 weeks of use. My suggestion is to follow their fitting guidelines closely, don’t fret if they aren’t “perfect” on your first try and give them a little bit of time to mold to your body. Cheers!
Joe, what was it you said about briefs?
A pre-soak (even for sanforized denim) will help tremendously in avoiding crotch blow-outs. That, and getting a pair that doesn’t suffocate the goods.
Looks like they just posted another Slate offering; go, go, go!
And mine too…
https://weargustin.com/invite_from/170
There is actually a Gustin referral thread if folks want to share the love. Also some good discussion regarding fit, etc. I’ve posted some pics of the currently running Slate and Super Heavy, for those interested. I’ve got some more pics of those that I may throw on there if there’s interest…
Obviously I’m a big fan of Gustin.
I agree. Other than the horrible CGI ground squirrels and INdy Jr. Tarzaning from the trees with absurdly friendly monkeys… oh.. and the giant ants that don’t exist in nature…OH, and the magnetic skull that pulls every metal towards itself but somehow does not affect the iron in human blood… INdy 4 COULD have been a much better movie. I love that they brought back Marion!
Joe, or anyone else, this might be a good time to share any tips on stretching jeans; especially in the waist.
Anyone have a ideas?
What I hated more than anything else was the green-screened chase sequence. They didn’t need CGI for the minecart scene in Temple of Doom. And even if the green screen was justified (that fight would have been pretty hard to pull off otherwise, I’ll admit), did it have to look so BAD? They really dropped the ball with the execution :/
Based on the pics above, I wouldn’t be purchasing these online…I think denim is so inconsistent that it needs to be tried on, especially if you’re making an $80plus commitment. I have a need to LOVE my denim..lol
You seem to know about denim, may I ask a question?
I want selvage jeans that are not raw, do these exist?
If so, what are your recommendations?
Thanks!
I ordered a 33 regular from them (as suggested from their fit guide) and I couldn’t even put it on. I emailed them and they told me that I could exchange it. I went to their office and switched it for the 35 (my true size as measured) and it fits wonderfully.
Only thing I would change about it… I wish the pockets were 3-4 inch deeper like the docker alpha khaki pockets. It feels uncomfortable putting wallet or cellphone into the front two pockets.
I didn’t see Joe put an invite link, so here’s mine. Use it and you get $20 off your first order, and I get $20 credit as well.
https://weargustin.com/invite_from/3780
I’m still waiting on mine to come in. Most of my jeans are a 32×30. According to their sizing guide, I ordered a 33 Straight fit. Hopefully it should arrive in the next week or two so I can comment on the fit.
Wait, there was an Indiana Jones movie after the Last Crusade?
You can buy washed selvedge from various companies, including J Crew: http://www.jcrew.com/mens_category/denim/selvedge.jsp
Most serious denim brands do seasonal washes. So yes, they do exist.
Selvedge jeans live longer and get very unique with time. Gustin seems really nice, especially for the price, but I wouldn’t trade my Rogue Territory Stanton’s for anything else.
I respect your opinion and your right to dislike things. However, pretending that something doesn’t exist, even in jest, is simply quite rude, and infantile to boot. It’s like sticking your fingers in your ears, squeezing your eyes shut, and saying “Nyah nyah, I can’t hear you!” We can do better than that.
I… relax just a bit on this one? Please?
Sorry. I get that reaction a lot, and it’s become a bit of a pet peeve. I’ll try to lighten up a bit.
Also, Indy’s hat. I know you don’t do hats, but tell me that’s not timeless style.
Not sure how long ago you got your jeans, but Gustin added an extra inch to their front pocket bags a few weeks ago. I’m assuming its the front pockets you’re worried about.
I think my comment got moderated for including a referral code, but if you’re interested in seeing pics of the Slate and Super Heavy denims that are now being funded (as well as the Organic, which is not being offered) check out the Gustin Referral thread in the forum. There is also some good information regarding fit, etc.
Got some japan standards in the kickstarter. they did not fit and the waist measurement wasn’t what they said it would be. there was a bunch of people complaining about their japan standards being too small on the site. they sent me another pair and they are breaking in nicely. awesome denim, great fit, sick hardware. A little annoyed that i ended up paying extra for mine because of the return shipping but overall happy with my purchase.
Not to sound like a smart @ss, but wear them. That’s how most people stretch them out. Wearing them wet will also help with stretching. I don’t recommendi using some device to try and stretch them though because it only stretches maybe one area leaving your pair with uneven stretching.
Tons of selvedge out there that isn’t raw – becoming a lot more popular too. Off the top of my head, some great companies doing it are Baldwin, Rogue Territory, APC and Levi’s Made and Crafted. All these companies are on the high end of the spectrum – not too much “affordable” non-raw selvedge out there. Occasionally the Levi’s site will run a sale on their “made in the usa” stuff which is all selvedge (not from the made and crafted line) and you can score them in the 90 buck range… Hope that helps!
this is going to sound stupid but i’ve been walking around with a can of tuna or deodorant stick in my front pockets for a few days and it seems to have helped.
unlikely but they will let you try on a pair if you are in the san fran area.
those are my measurements for jeans. I ordered 3 pairs of 33’s. I love them.
You know if the waist closes, you just might find the fit gets a lot more comfortable as they stretch. Mine were tight like that out of the bag, but stretched pretty quickly. I hate it when my jeans stretch and get too loose in the waist, and getting them tight, and letting them stretch worked out perfectly for me.
I actually just went by the Gustin offices this week to try on some jeans. The folks working there couldn’t be nicer and I ended up walking out with a pair of Japan Regular in a 31 slim. When it comes to breaking them in, the guys there said they usually wear them around the house, do lunges and squats in them (seriously) or if you didn’t want to do that then they’d break in after about 20 wearings.
I also saw some samples of their OCBD and they are really nice – not sure if they are $40 nicer than the Uniqlo OCBD’s that I’ve been buying but I’ll probably give one a shot someday soon.
“a lot”? … how often do you talk about Kingdom of the Crystal Skull with with people?
there is a referral program, where you can save $20, here is my link: https://weargustin.com/invite_from/3494
Gustin Referral Program is out there, save $20 on stuff over $80: https://weargustin.com/invite_from/3494
really just can’t stand button fly jeans. why do they insist on this on making them
this is great advice, thanks.
I just got mine yesterday, so I finally have the chance to try them out today. I had a similar sizing issue to Joe, but I failed miserably, and I couldn’t even get them buttoned. I did measure “my favorite jeans” as their fit guide suggests, but I was fooled by the comments about them stretching out up to an inch. Being a noob in the denim world (I was just hoping to back a company that was trying to do something differently) I clearly chose the size poorly.
As their website says, returns can be tricky… and they are not fast. I originally pledged for the Japan Standard on Kickstarter and received them in late April. I contacted them and they had me send them back… then radio silence. I gave them 6 weeks and emailed again. To their credit they were hoping to get the same style in my size to send me and offered to continue waiting, or they would send me something similar. I opted for whatever they had in my size. It took almost another month, but I’ve got a pair of the Japan Heavy now.
So far so good. The pockets seem a tiny bit shallow, but not so much that I think something will fall out. I’m happy that I backed Gustin, but they will need to work on their customer service. Backing on KS, I know what I am getting into. Ordering from their site with the cloudy return policy, and not a lot of communication, they could end up with some customers that would be much less understanding.
Aesthetics aside, a zipper on denim that will stretch when worn and shrink when washed will end up looking really really funky.
I’m interested to see how this company goes. Unfortunately I have way too much denim already to consider buying some more 🙁
I had a similar concern, and a similar reason for wanting to try premium denim. As a daily cyclist, my jeans tend to wear out first in the crotch. I’ll patch them and keep them going for another year or so once that starts depending upon the pair, but I wanted a really durable fabric. So I emailed them and asked them what to get, expecting it to be one of the heavier weight denims, but Stephen actually recommended the Classic which is a mid-weight Japanese denim. The logic being that japanese denims tend to be a tighter weave, and higher quality than the cone denims, and that heavy denims actually tent to blow out faster due to the folding effect of stiffer fabrics.
Anyway I’ve barely had mine 2 months, not nearly long enough to tell how they will hold up compared to my old favorites, but I do feel like it was worthwhile to contact them and ask for advice about which denim to get. I recommend you ask too, so they can make a recommendation based upon what’s currently available. Much as I love the Classic, I don’t know when or if they will do another run of it.
Best sub thread. Ever.
This is really excellent advice, thank you! My thinking about heavier denims being more rugged was along the same lines so it’s good to know that’s not necessarily the case.
Not digging the shoe/cuff interface there. Too similar in color. In fact, I think that big of cuff always looks bad….my biggest peeve with selvage after price, always have to roll em up.
Please do a follow-up, if you can, when they arrive. I’m biting my nails waiting for my August delivery..
I wrote to them yesterday since mine were supposed to be delivered in July and I hadn’t heard anything yet. They said they should be delivered in the next week or two. I’ll definitely do a review of them in the forum once they arrive. So you can check on it there.
I think you’ll grow to love them. Trust me they will stretch out, especially if you don’t wash them and dry them regularly (which you absolutely should NOT do- if you can stand it, wash every few months or get them dry cleaned). They’ll soften and take on personal characteristics that regular jeans don’t. For example, mine have slightly worn spots in my front pockets from my wallet and cell phone and the right knee is slightly worn (I had a pair of shoes that constantly came untied).
I wore mine on a 10 mile bike ride the same day I got them, and that stretched em in right quick.
initial wash? or did you mean to say initial soak?
My biggest gripe with Gustin is their showcasing. Inconsistent white balance and not enough completed sample pictures really leave you with a crap shoot. Many comments on their site make mention that the jeans they received look way different from the swatch displayed on the website, but that the construction and quality are great. I’m just wondering when will the time come when we stop giving them slack for making quality jeans, and wait for their showcasing to be accurate (especially considering the up in the air return/exchange policy).
save 20$ with this referral link https://www.weargustin.com/invite_from/362
I think a good idea is to do an initial rinse / wash with vinegar when you first receive / buy quality dark denim jeans as to avoid as much dye transfer onto other clothing as possible. I usually pull the jeans inside-out and run a cycle in my laundry machine with 1 cup of vinegar to help retain the denim dye.
i purshed a pair of gustin from their first run. to replace an old pair of KMW 1950s that I loved. Gustin’s are awesome, and i can’t wait for them to mature. I’m just concerned that they wont fade like the KMW. has anyone had a pair that is fading?
I think they’re cuffed to show off the selvedge ID..
Regarding sizing, here’s an email I received from Gustin’s prez:
I also have pretty big thighs and calves. Sorry no tape measure handy, but I can’t wear anything with a “slim” fit, because my legs don’t fit even if I size up a size in the waist. These fit snug in the thigh, but not too snug, pretty much exactly how I like them, and I can pull them up over my calves to lace my boots, but just barely. Here is a pic taken the first day I had them after a 10 mile bike ride which did loosen them up a bit. http://www.flickr.com/photos/happytriggerfinger/8942737828/
Fit is similar, but maybe a tad bit slimmer and lower rise than current 501. I think some have said it’s closer to a 514, but I can’t say never having tried a 514.
Sadly it’s the terrible inseam sizes that are ruining it for me. Cuffed jeans always look horrible. It makes it looks like you can’t buy pants that fit, are trying too hard to look “cool”, or are a denim snob that paid too much for his selvedge jeans and really wants to show it off.
At 5’9″ and preferring to wear my pants low on the hip as well it mean that I usually go for 30″ inseams that then shrink down rather nicely. I’ve never been able to understand where all these giants are that are keeping up demand for 34″ and 36″ inseams to begin with.
Where do you find a place you trust to hem jeans? I’ve always been disappointed because the stitching isn’t up to snuff with the original
Where do you find a place you trust to hem jeans?
you probably figured this out at some point in the last 3 months since you posted this, but they sell them in just a couple inseam sizes to cut down on costs, with the expectation that you’ll have them hemmed on your own after the first wash (since they tend to shrink a bit on that first wash)