Editor’s Note: Our Official Bartender, Michael Bowers, needs your help. He beats the snot out of shoes. We’ve launched this search to try and find the most comfortable, durable, yet still decent looking pair of lace-ups for him to wear. Add your suggestions & picks in the comments, and make a note of his criteria for his shoes at the bottom of the post.
Bartending is hard on shoes. Every shift my shoes are exposed to a 10-hour stretch of standing, walking, squatting down, and kicking fridge doors closed while both hands are full. And of course there is the occasional dousing with everything from lime juice to porter. In the first 9 months I tended bar, I destroyed three pairs of dress shoes. There were holes in the leather, holes in the soles, and with each pair the fusing between the upper and the sole gave way.
So far, at $160, Eccos seem to hold up the best. This is after one year of every-other-day use.
Obviously, they weren’t the best quality shoes. Back then money was tight, and the thought of spending more than a $100 on a pair of shoes for work was hard to stomach. After seeing how well discount shoes held up to the abuse, though, I decided to try something the next level up. I took a recommendation from a sales rep at Macy’s and bought a pair of Ecco shoes for $160. They were comfortable, they looked decent enough for work, and they lasted nearly a year on the job.
Maybe not the most stylish, but they’re comfortable and can handle what’s thrown at them.
So I have kept buying them for years since, and they’ve all done about as well as the first pair. I get a year of use (alternating with another pair) before they begin to look too rough to keep wearing. Now that it’s time for a new pair of shoes, though, I’m ready to try something new. It’s not as though I love Ecco shoes. In fact, when it comes to style, I never find something I really like. It’s just that I know that the shoes I buy now will still be comfortable and functional after several months of abuse. I’ve been hesitant to buy a nicer (and probably more expensive) pair of shoes only to find that they’re not up to the task.
That’s why we’re going to run this experiment. I alternate my shoes from day to day, so the pair that was just worn on Friday can get a rest on Saturday. Once a month we’ll take a picture to document how they’re holding up, and once they’re no longer wearable I’ll make an assessment. I’ll report back on which shoe has been more comfortable, which looks better, and finally which shoe–taking cost into the equation–I’d buy again. But we need to pick the first couple of pairs, and I’m open to suggestions. Here’s a few parameters for what I’m looking for:
- Comfort & Durability are key: I’m not felling trees in the wilderness, but I’m certainly not sitting at a desk either. My new shoes have to be comfortable for long stretches and handle kicks, spills, etc…
- But looks count too: I’d like something nicer looking than my Eccos.
- Traction is a must: It can get slick behind the bar.
- No boots: The bar has a patio, and in the summer it can get hot. I’d prefer shoes.
- Price: I love my job, but not many people get into bartending to make a fortune.
- Sizing: I’m an 11D. So no need for extreme sizes.
With that information in mind, I turn to you, the Dappered community. Suggestions?
About our Bartender – Michael Bowers is the Head Bartender at the Modern Hotel and Bar in Boise, Idaho. His patrons know him for the uncanny precision with which he tends his bar. Michael’s cocktails have been noted by, among others, Food and Wine, Sunset Magazine, GQ, and the New York Times. See more in The Drink archive.
I love Allen Edmonds shoes. They are comfortable, you can get the rubber soles for traction, they look good, they will re-craft them, catch a sale or get seconds (or both) and they are not too expensive (I caught a sale on some Ithaca Chili seconds for $99)
Try the brand giorgio brutuni. They are an inexpensive (< 100) line of glued rubber sole dress shoes. They look decent and seem to be well made for the price. I own a pair for rainy/ snowy weather and they still look good after 2 years. A good option for beater dress shoes
Re-crafting hardly matters if he destroys the uppers.
That being said, I have to wonder if those Eccos are even real leather. The way the coating flakes off to reveal that pressed-sawdust-looking stuff underneath strikes me as…odd to say the least. If they aren’t real leather, full-grain leather shoes would definitely be the next step up.
I heard about a site called Shoes for Crews awhile back, and they seem to make exactly the product that you’re looking for. I would suggest purchasing their Senator model. Available in brown or black, it’s made specifically for use in the restaurant industry, and is rather inexpensive. I’ve never seen one in person, but seems like they could be of use!
http://www.shoesforcrews.com/sfc3/index.cfm?changeWebsite=US_en&route=c_store.viewDetailsOfProduct&partnumber=1211&size=
I can’t help but wonder if a little more effort caring for the shoes might have kept the upper from being completely destroyed. Polish or leather conditioner maybe?
I bought some Rockports for walking through Europe. Not only did they hold up through six weeks of getting completely soaked in rain and covered in dirt, but they are still my go-to comfortable shoes a year later.
I agree. I think whatever shoes are decided on, the first course of action would be to coat them with a water repellent, and then proceed to take care of the shoes. I find AE to be comfortable, but I just work a desk job. Not sure how they’d be after 10 hours of constantly moving on my feet. Rockport and Bostonian are 2 that seem nice for doing a lot of walking.
I have a pair of chukkas that I got from a discount store for $40…wear them all the time and get compliments frequently. Only thing is that the build quality is lacking. The sole squeaks with every step and the shoe laces broke on both shoes. My roommate got the exact same chukkas and both of these happened to him too, but we replaced the laces with leather ones and put up with the squeaking given the price point.
As far as style goes, Keens are kinda love em or hate em. I happen to be in the love em camp, and I’ve had a couple pair that have held up very well, and they are extremely comfortable.
If you want something that looks a bit more traditional, but is built to be a working shoe, I might recommend you look at something like a Red Wing oxford.
Agreed on the Rockports. I have cheap pairs I got off 6PM.com that I use as my inclement-weather brown shoes. They hold up pretty well and have very comfortable insoles and forgiving toe boxes. If you’re going to spill constantly, I’d recommend getting a pair and then sealing it with Sno-Seal. INVINCIBLE!
I have a pair of Rockports I really like. They are quite comfortable as a walking shoe. The only reason I can’t recommend the brand is that this is the only pair I’ve worn, and while they’ve held up well for me so far, I’ve only had them a year, and being suede I tend to baby them more than a full gain leather shoe. That said I’m never easy on shoes, and these are holding up quite well. SO it’s not that I doubt their durability I just can’t personally attest to it. An occasional brushing with the suede brush has kept these looking good, so I would tend to assume a full grain Rockport would hold up pretty well with basic leather care.
Yes! After breaking in, and once the cork foot-bed conforms, even the leather soled dress shoes feel fantastic. I once wore my broken in Strands at museum for about 6 hours without a hint of fatigue. +1 for a thorough coat of water repellent. Good shoes are pointless if not taken care of.
I agree with a rubber sole Allen Edmonds, seachable on the their site here: http://www.allenedmonds.com/aeonline/cati2_Shoes_1_40000000001_-1_______121060_subcategory
I vote Black Hills, Wilbert, or Ashton.
I also bartend and currently wear leather Shox with slacks since it fits the atmosphere of my downtown bar, but in the past I’ve bartended at fine restaurants and worn oxfords. A leather sole opens you to more options (and will still be comfortable given Allen Edmonds’ cork layer that molds to the foot), but if your bar gets slippery than a rubber sole seems fitting.
Get a smooth shiny polished leather so the alcohol/water/juice runs right off, and for God’s sake, clean, polish, and condition these things (clean daily, polish probably every few days in your case) and I don’t see why these won’t last for years in the service industry. I bought a used pair of rubber sole AE boots from ebay to wear while riding my motorcycle they look almost the exact same after a year.
Johnston and Murphy makes shoes that look like a lot of AE models and are considerably cheaper, so you can look there as well. But I have two pair (one given to me) and they feel much less well constructed and I don’t wear them often.
This video seems relevant, discussing a guy who downgraded shoes in anticipation of going through more of them: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=17QiNDcWyvM
If ever there was a scenario perfect for Red Wing oxfords (or even chukka boots if they’d fit into the dress code), this is it. A little mink oil (or the Red Wing brand boot oil) to condition and waterproof, and you’re all set. Plus, you can get them resoled if the uppers survive the year.
Some have mentioned Keens and I think that those would be a good choice, but if I wanted something for all day wear and good resistance from the (behind the bar) elements, I’d go for a pair of Doc Martens. The 8053, Boston or Stanton models are my favorites. Just give them a good coating with their Dubbin for some extra water resistance and you’re likely good to go.
Which ECCOs are these?
I know this defeats the purpose of a style blog but for a 10 hour work day I say go for practical comfort over style, especially since youll be behind a bar, and get some athletic/running shoes.
/runs
Second this. Most people i have know in this type of service industry will wear nothing else.
I used to sell men’s shoes and would often recommend Johnston & Murphy’s to guys with similar needs. Something like this pair:
http://www.johnstonmurphy.com/product.aspx?c=1215&pid=91034&VID=91048
I also always recommend (if you’re going to be on your feet for hours and hours a day) to purchase a pair of really supportive insoles, maybe insoles with good arch support depending on the shape of your feet. It makes all the difference once the original insoles have flattened out or generally misshapen due to constant use.
except he explicitly stated that he doesn’t want boots because they are too hot. That said, Redwing and Wolverine do both make oxfords. A good strong comfortable work shoe may well be just what the Dr. of Mixology ordered.
Has anyone mentioned Doc Martens? I use a pair at work, and they’re holding up pretty well. The soles are magical, super comfortable and slip resistant (even with grease).
I know you said no boots, but I’ve been wearing my Clark’s desert boots at work since September. I work retail, so that’s 50 or so hours a week on my feet. They need to be resoled and I’ve broken a few pairs of laces, but the uppers have held up well.
I used to bartend, and know all about standing for a long time. I also have an ankle issue so it was doubly tough for me (I couldn’t wear tennis shoes because they didn’t give me the support I needed…and frankly I only like to wear those when I’m working out).
Anyway, I don’t know why people don’t appreciate these…I’m starting to think I’m underground with them…but the Cole Haan Nike Air shoes are amazing. They are as comfortable as tennis shoes, attractive as dress shoes, and have solid support on top of all that. Plus I get compliments on them all the time.
You may have to wear them a couple times beforehand to rough up the bottoms so they don’t slide, but after that you should be good. I’ve been wearing a brown leather pair (not a huge fan of the black shoes) as my “everyday” shoes on the drinking side of the bar, out running chores, walking around on vacations, even washing my car…and waiting for them to wear out…for a couple years now.
Shoes for Crews has some decent looking shoes mostly under a hundred bucks. I wear a pair in the kitchen 6 days a week, 10 hours a day and love them.
OluKai Ohana Lace Up: Thank me later
That “Senator” shoe looks like a good bet, and a great price. So far, looks like a great call and even more tailor-made for what you do than my Cole Haan suggestion.
Another vote for Rockports. I’ve had pairs that have last 10+ years under normal conditions and minimal care ( polishing, cleaning, etc.) Rockports also walk the line between style and comfort very well. Additionally, I would just like to suggest checking out thrift stores/Goodwill. It is far from a sure thing when it comes to shoes, but I did happen across a gently used pair of black shoes once that held up very well for another couple of years, again under normal circumstances and care. They had some small scuffs when I bought them, but shoe polish took care of that. Also, for ten or twenty bucks what do you have to lose? Hell, buy 5 pairs and rotate them once a week instead of once every other day 😉
Michael, try the brand Børn. Under a $100 (Third World made) and pretty much indestructible. Bought a pair to trek through SE Asia. That was 6 years ago and they STILL haven’t worn out yet.
I’d bypass the Earthkeepers but look at Timberland Boot Company. Step up in quality, materials, and craftsmanship means they can take a beating, and can be found cheap on ebay and 6pm. Plus, they make shoes as well.
If you can get away with wearing those Eccos, I’d think you should be able to get away with Chucks or Pumas in something dark & inconspicuous (black hi-top Chucks or brown suede Pumas?). Cheap, durable, & comfortable as hell. The suede should hold up against spills even better if you treat it with something–Cole Haan has a good spray protector.
If you need a dress shoe, you might try a Cole Haan with the Nike Air sole. I’m mostly an Allen Edmonds guy now, but I’d be loath to put my AEs in harm’s way behind a bar, my Cole Haans (treated with the spray mentioned above) have been surprisingly durable (survived more than a couple very wet walks home with no noticeable damage), and the Nike Air sole is incredibly comfortable from day 1.
Finally: what about a pair of Clarks Desert Boots in Beeswax? They seem to meet the criteria–surprised they haven’t been mentioned yet.
What about the Red Wing postman oxford? You can snag them cheaper on ebay. Purpose built for endless standing and walking. The soles are a little big clunky looking, but way better than those orange comfort clogs the line cooks in the restaurant kitchen wear.
Would $200 be breaking the bank? There are Allen Edmonds Aberdeens in your size that have a lugged sole (good for slippery floors) and come in a really rich dark brown/burgundy color that looks killer. They won’t fall apart and need to be bought again like those Eccos, either.
Michael: What sort of care did you put into those shoes? Did you clean them regularly and use leather conditioner or some other protective product?
I ask only because that leather appears to be far more degraded than it should be if it were cared for with the great frequency your work environment demands. Whatever your next shoe, bathe those things regularly in something like Sno-Seal Wax or Obenauf’s Heavy Duty LP. Both of these products are meant to keep mud, salt, and other wintertime nastyness from ruining your shoe leather. Surely they would do just as well against alcohol, citrus juices, cleaning agents, and the like.
+1 on Red Wings. Try the Red Wing Postman, $220 on Amazon.
I would avoid AE Long Branch. Got a pair and only a few months later after light use, the footbeds are coming apart.
New Balance minimus in leather. They will change your life, and also as a bartender, they held up through the abuse. Plus they look good. And you can find them at outlet prices online. They also feature a warning for your foot health. Be warned, I’m a barefooter and these suit my lifestyle, if you’re used to a thick bouncy sole or have flat feet, the minimus will leave you in pain.
Have you contacted AE? They should repair or replace them.
This is what I thought of the moment he said he needed shoes for bar-tending. They are not the most stylish, but they are the standard. The other company I would look at is Red Wings, they are expensive, but have impeccable build quality.
Also, after market insoles are also a must. I would recommend Sof Sole or Superfeet, both manufacture insoles designed for standing long periods of time. I used to do a lot of conventions and I tried everything from tennis shoes to custom and I ended up finding that the shoe didn’t matter, it was the insole that made all the difference. Those Dr. Schols and various gel inserts are garbage and meant for people that are walking from their desk to the copier, not for standing all day.
I had a pair of Brown Borns That I though I really liked (until I found Dappered) and while the uppers are decent the heels are some sort of honeycomb concept and after awhile made a “snapping” sound- hard to figure out what happened to them but the result is I wont go back to them.
Dansko. There is a reason you see the guys in the kitchen wearing them.
I suggest Clarks Bostonian line of shoes, there is a a variety of styles and the shoes are fairly tough. The Bostonian line is extremely comfortable to top it off.
“but the Cole Haan Nike Air shoes are amazing”
… if you can fit your feet into them. They can run a bit narrow. :-S Otherwise, a fine choice.
Have you checked out Born shoes? They’re known for their comfort. I don’t know yet how they’ll hold up to repeated abuse, but I’ve not treated mine kindly and they’re doing fine so far. They’re NOT sleek, but maybe something like this? http://www.bornshoes.com/Product.aspx?ProductID=8333
And to be clear, I wear mine as beaters when I don’t want to damage something nicer. They’re not my first choice when looks matter.
I second this rec. There is also a reason so many in the health professions (surgeons included) wear these. I don’t like the clogs (they’re too tall for me… I roll my ankles a lot) but they have different types. I got a pair that looks like an apron toe dress shoe on 6pm for like $110
I’d go the boots route – sounds like you’re rough on your work shoes and that’s what boots are for, right? If you’re on a budget, Chippewa are great for about $125(nice Vibram sole too) and if you wanna splurge go for Red Wings. Throw in some superfeet insoles and you’re set. Polish and condition them from time to time and they should last for a long time. If you’re doing shoes, I agree Allen Edmonds with rubber soles should strike that balance between comfort, quality, style, durability and price. Get some heel taps. Polo does some great bluchers too for the price. I’ve had these for a decade and they’re tanks. You’ll need insoles to make them comfy though.
http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/index.jsp?productId=13315473&utm_medium=13590886&utm_source=Google_PLA&utm_campaign=CSE
Having gone through i similar experience I highly recommend any number of Red Wing shoes (they do make shoes not just boots) they may not be the most stylish choice but they have been designed to be worked in and come in a fair amount of different styles. You may also want to look at their heritage collection
So far, ShoesForCrews.com and SureGripFootwear (formerly Keuka) have produced the best results for me. Personally, I’m a wing-tip guy. And every time I buy one from one of these guys, a year later it’s discontinued because (so they say) it isn’t popular enough. (Meanwhile, Urban Outfitters and European fashion blogs have wingtips–and wingtip ANKLE BOOTS–all over the place.
Of the two, Keuka was the more durable, but ShoesForCrews was the more comfortable by far! If either of these companies has their “executive wingtip” in stock, definitely give it a go!!!
I think a lot of people, and including some dress codes, would disagree that boots are the appropriate footwear for bar-tending. The fact that some people need rugged shoes for work, but DON’T need or want ankle support is precisely why brands like Red Wing make work oxfords.
I took the boots back to the store today. There’s a new pair on the way. That’s some great customer service.
I know I’m late to this, but I recommend Clarks. Most are a little casual, but you’re behind the bar. Mine held up pretty darn well, and I’m really hard on shoes.
Mozo 125th street are my favorite. I’ve been through a lot of shoes (keen, dansko, sas, reebok…etc) Mozo have been the best by far.