Dappered

Affordable Men's Style

The 10 Most Underrated of Men’s Style

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Hardworking, but rarely sought after or drooled over.  These are the Rodney Dangerfields of men’s style, where the respect given just isn’t to the level these things deserve.  Leave you additions in the comments section.    

1. Black Shoes

Maybe it was collateral damage from black suits falling out of favor, but black shoes just don’t get the credit they deserve. Between walnut Strands and brandy suede double monks, there’s  an arms (foot?) race for brown shoes you can’t ignore.  And that’s fine, but black shoes shouldn’t be forgotten.  A great looking pair of black shoes are professional, mean, and sharp.  So dust them off, shine them up, and don’t be scared to wear them with lighter colors like pale grey or even khaki.

2. Dots

Stripes have long dominated men’s style.  But from ties, to suits, to shirts… don’t be afraid to give them dots a shot.

3. The buzz cut

The black shoes of the grooming world.  Again, won’t stand out like a well styled man mane, but getting your hair clippered extra short is mean and sharp.

Black shoes shant be forgottenBlack Shoes + some interesting details = Standing out quietly.

4. Solid, Fine Gauge, Silk Knit Ties

A knit tie doesn’t have to look like it was made from an ABA tube sock.  A solid, finely knit tie made from silk adds just enough texture to an outfit.  Even with a subtle stripe, a silk knit tie can look plenty dressed up, unlike it’s preppier dressed down cousins.

5. Grey Jeans

Blue on blue on blue can be a great look, but grey jeans allow you to wear all your blue stuff up top, and still have some contrast on the bottom… while still wearing jeans.

6. Nonfunctioning  jacket sleeve buttons

Yes, surgeon’s cuffs were once the sign of an extremely well made suit, but now it seems like they’re found on most affordable off the rack blazers, sportcoats, and suit jackets.  And that’s a problem.  If you want to show a quarter of an inch to half an inch of shirt cuff, tailoring is necessary.  And it’s a nightmare if your jacket’s sleeve buttons are functional.  Brands should skip the accent stitching on non-functioning buttons too, since shorter-armed guys might find that stitching getting real close to the end of the sleeve.  The Ludlow line from J. Crew nails it:  Nonfunctioning buttons without the faux stitching around them.

Functioning is overratedFunctioning = overrated? Should suit makers like Suitsupply consider switching to non-functioning?

7. Not just free shipping… but free returns

Free shipping?  Great.  But free returns means you can shop online, risk free.  Makes a huge difference.

8. Crewneck Sweaters

V-necks, and their ever increasing depth, took over the sweater world a few years back.  But a crew can just as easily be layered over an OCBD.  Not quite as dashing when dressed up, but crewnecks won’t look awkward over a t-shirt on the weekend like a deep v-neck might.

9. Green.  The color

Poor Kermit.  Try mixing in a green tie with your arsenal of blue, black, and red neckwear.  Or a pale mint-green shirt. Green is also under appreciated when it comes to automotive paint jobs.

10. Briefs

“But you’ll look like a kid when your clothes come off.”  Not if you wear some briefs with a little color, and you don’t have the body type of a child.  Women may prefer boxer briefs, but for plenty of us, those legs bunch up throughout the day. Maybe it has something to do with the drift towards S/M/L sizing instead of exact waist sizes, and thus the legs never truly fit.  At least with briefs you can find a 30, 32, or 34 waist.  And unlike boxers, briefs offer some support and control.

What else just doesn’t seem to get the respect it deserves in the world of men’s style?  Leave it all in the comments.
Top Photo Credit: Tom Caswell

Comments

  2. I’m not certain I’d wear a suit with dots – I can’t even see the dots in the linked suit pictures, so if they’re that fine I might consider it – but whole-hearted agreement on shirts and ties. There are some horrible ones out there, so exercise discretion, but done right it’s a killer look.

  4. I haven’t got a single pair of decent black shoes. Boots yes, shoes no. Not really an oversight or a conscious choice. I’ve been looking. I just haven’t found a good deal on a pair of black shoes I like.

  9. They’re awfully hard to see. But that’s the point. I’ve got a navy with slightly lighter blue pindot suit in my collection. Key is to go with not a lot of contrast.

  10. 11) Clean shaven face. The “scruffy” look has been “in” for so long that it seems the odd man is the one who prefers the clean shaven look.
    12) Wool trousers. In a world where chinos are considered business casual, it’s nice to see a few guys wearing wool.
    13) Watches. Most men don’t wear watches any more, or if they do, they’re usually some ugly digital monstrosity.

  11. Joe, which black shoes are those pictured? How about a black shoe posting in the future? I need some ideas for something less formal than the Park Ave but not as flashy as a Mcallister…

  13. Re: Black shoes and buzz cut. I think the reason they’re a pariah in the style world is that they remind us of the guy at the office that doesn’t try. He’s got his STKC (square toe Kenneth Cole) shoes, his billowy blue or blue striped dress shirt with visible crew neck t-shirt, his giant watch, etc. So, people tend to overreact to him and not do anything he does, even if it can be done better.

  15. Quick question: isn’t it possible for a tailor to take a jacket without a functioning cuff and make it functional? I know they can cut a functioning boutonniere hole in the lapel…

    Also, re:underwear, trunks. I discovered them a year ago and haven’t looked back. And Uniqlo’s are absurdly cheap (even with shipping), well-cut, and don’t wear out easily. http://www.uniqlo.com/us/store/lifewear/men-seamless-low-rise-boxer-briefs/075870-65-006?ref=mens-clothing%2Fmens-underwear-and-loungewear%2Fmens-underwear

  16. I went from having a buzz cut through most of elementary and middle school, started to let it grow out in high school, and then spent most of college and grad school with it down past my shoulders. If only Dappered had been around back in the late 90s, I could have avoided all of the pictures out there that will keep me from running for elected office!

  18. Or you could be a person of color and not want to deal with kinky/nappy/curly hair. A lot easier and sleeker to go buzz cut.

  19. Be careful with the buzz cut. Unless you are shaving clear down to the scalp, try to go shorter on the sides/back and longer on top – Marine Corps, high-and-tight style. A buzz cut that is completely even makes your head look wider and rounder than most people probably need. I see some guys with this kind of buzz cut and it’s just not flattering.

  20. The problem with boxer-briefs, as Joe mentioned, is that the legs bunch up, especially on us guys with bigger legs. Briefs are way more comfortable and practical for thunder thighs like me. Plus, there are plenty of stylish and flattering brief options out there. We have evolved from the days of tighty whities and granny panties.

  23. The weybridge! Now discontinued, but man I love these things. Closest now would be the vernon, which is flashier.

  24. I’m bi-racial. Black father, Hispanic mother. I have kinky/nappy/curly hair. It isn’t easy to style, so i cut it. Most of us do.

  26. +1 on the non-functional sleeve buttons. I have passed on quite a few great blazers because of functional buttons or faux button stitching. (I am looking at you, Banana Republic). Just sew on some buttons and then a tailor can alter the sleeves and add real buttonholes if desired.

  27. 11) Thanks a lot Don Johnson…

    (I actually have a full beard and often feel that it’s ridiculous that some guys that sport a good looking beard the majority of the time feel the need to shave for special occasions)

  28. I second the “black shoe” posting suggestion! I picked up a pair of Grenson Tyler’s from Bonobos when they were on sale and had a %30 off code (image linked below), but I’ve been hunting for diversity since.

    https://svpply.com/item/467229/Tyler_Shoes_Mens_Shoes_Black_Shoes

    Though these were a gem, it’s been super hard to find other great black dress shoes.

    I would also totally support a “splurge” shoe-only post.

  30. I’m in the buzz-cuts-never-work category, for this reason. There’s no way of getting a buzz high and/or tight enough to make my melon look normal.

  31. Yeah, in fact that’s usually the better way to go about it. Get non-functional sleeves tailored, and once they’re the right length, have them altered to be functional.

  35. I would also love to see an updated post about this – looking for an inexpensive pair but the black jcp Wallis look really bad in person

  38. Totally agree on the black shoes, Joe! In fact, black shoes are *always* my go-to. I realize that puts me out of favor with much of American culture, but I just love black shoes.

    Also, in respect to boxer briefs, may I humbly submit that if they ride up the leg, they are the wrong pair/fit. There are available boxer briefs that don’t do that. Just have to find the right one for the body type.

  40. R’s usually hit right where they need to on my wrist. Cotton summer suits I think its nice to have functioning buttons. It can look badass rolling up the sleeves of a suit while you’re outside or doing something active.