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The Trench Coat Spectrum

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You're hovering a bit there bucko.Ask A Woman:  Drenched in a trench

If you’ve got a question that needs the female treatment, chances are you’re not the only one who wants to ask it.  Beth is our source for the answers.  From opinions on men’s style to decoding the sometimes mysterious ways of women, she’ll take on a different question every Thursday.  And don’t worry, your identity will be protected too.  Click here to get to know Beth, then get in touch with her by sending your question to: askawoman@dappered.com

 

Hey Beth,

Its been raining a lot recently and I have been mulling over a light trench coat purchase. Do you have recommendations for color and design (double breasted, belted, etc..) that would be versatile enough for the weekends, but still work appropriate? Are there considerations I should make for my height (5′ 8″) and build (less than athletic, but not slim either). Also, what are your views on hooded trench coats? Major no-no? Or is this one of those cases were utility begets style?

Best,

Josh

 

Hi Josh,

I LOVE A TRENCH.  All the coolest people wear trenches: Inspector Gadget, Princess Kate, my friend Jean when she met her boyfriend at the airport–with nothing on underneath, the one-armed man in The Fugitive…wait a minute, I seem to have gone off track.  Anyway, everyone looks good in a trench coat, so I’m glad you asked about it, Josh.

As with everything (I feel like a broken record), fit and cut are key.  Trenches are available in different lengths–mid-thigh, at the knee, shin-length–but I think the best look is above the knee.  Longer-length trenches seem to cut people in half and make them look like Danny Devito.  To figure out how the trench will hit your body, you’ll want to try on coats in-store when available, or make sure you get free shipping and free returns when ordering online, or take note of the from-the-shoulder measurement if provided.

Dude.  That could be YOU.
.
I’d definitely recommend double-breasted.  The single breasted versions just look odd to my eye, almost feminine, but that could very well be because I’m more accustomed to seeing the double-breasted coats.  The belted coats may be more flattering, since they’ll give you the appearance of a waist that narrows, whereas the non-belted versions are a straight down, boxier look.  But if you have a substantial middle-section, a belt right there might produce a sort of squeezed-sausage casing look.  So try both styles on–which one makes you look best?  For color, it’s a no-brainer: the classic light khaki or stone.  Yes, they have navy and olive and grey, but then the garment doesn’t even look like a trench anymore.  It’s just a pea coat or a plain old jacket.  If you really want the trench coat look, go for the classic color.  The hooded trench coat?  No dice.  I agree that clothing should serve its intended purpose, but a hood on a trench looks goofy and ruins that nice straight line that a trench normally produces in profile.  Carry an umbrella instead.

The Trench Spectrum.  From traditional to not-so-much: Ralph Lauren – $170 w/ SHINE, Banana Republic – $225, London Fog – $67.99 w/ SHINE, Alfani Red – $71.99 w/ SHINE

What’s nice about turning to classic items like the trench coat is that they’re almost always appropriate.  Going to work?  The trench works.  Happy Hour?  The trench won’t let you down.  Running errands?  The trench likes the grocery store.  So I think if you choose a trench coat in a classic cut and color, you’ll be satisfied with it for years to come.  It’s really an investment piece– which is good because trenches tend to run pretty pricey.  Wowzers!

-Beth

Got a question for Beth? Send it to: askawoman@dappered.com

Comments

  1. So your friend Jean…. interesting
    Also, in agreement re: double breasted above the knee. I received a below the knee, single breasted as a gift and it looks completely ridiculous on me. When I put it on, feels like I am wearing a duffel bag.

  2. I bought a navy trenchcoat recently. Except for the color (the only color left, but my personal favorite anyway), it would be Beth-approved.

  3. Also think about the type of weather that you will be wearing it in.I have an above the knee lightweight trench that works surprisingly well in my mild and rainy (but not torrential) climate. I also have a long heavy weight trench that gets almost no wear because it’s suited more for heavy rain/snow or a really windy place.

    The full-length coat also makes it a little awkward for me to get into my car and sit down.

  4. The coat should be double-breasted. You really begin to lose the flavor and structure of the trench coat and start looking like you’re just wearing a bathrobe if you go single-breasted. The length should hit somewhere between knee and mid-thigh. Color is really optional. A khaki-colored trenchcoat is obviously the most classic, but a darker color like black or navy will look a little more modern and a little less Inspector Gadget-ish.

  8. the single brested unbelted trench kiiiiinda looks like an over-glorified lab coat, HOWEVER if it suits your style go for it!

  10. Henry Bogart… the lesser-known brother of Humphrey and star of such forgotten classics as Casanegra and The Antarctican Queen.

  14. I agree with a comment below in saying that pairing a trench coat with a fedora. It looks so classy and stylish. Thanks for all the great advice on trench coats!! It will definitely come in handy when I go shopping for a new one this year.