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Affordable Men's Style

Style Battle: Two Solar Powered Chronos

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Citizen Perpetual Calendar Chrono – $240 vs. Seiko Chrono Compass – $219.00

Turn to page 64 in this month’s issue of Esquire.  The one with Mila Kunis on the cover.  Upper right hand corner. That Seiko chronograph catch anyone else’s eye?

$375 seems like a pretty steep price.  But knowing Esquire’s penchant for full MSRP, a quick jump over to Amazon found it sitting there for a much more palatable $219.  That’s a world of difference and well within the price range for most who like the looks, feel, and function of a light-driven chronograph.  And at twenty bucks less than the well-known and sort of similar looking watch from Citizen, a head to head had to be done.

Both fueled by light, both a bit over $200, and both with some Pilot influenced looks
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The Champ:  Citizen BL5250 Eco-Drive Perpetual Calendar Chrono
  • + 43mm titanium case, Mineral Crystal, 200m water resistance.
  • + Perpetual calendar means no need to reset date in February or months with 30 days.
  • + The dressier Croc embossed strap looks great up against the outstanding casual/sport dial.
  • + Has a second time zone function.
  • -/+ It’s a complicated piece to operate.  Lots of functions, but it’s not all that intuitive.
  • –  Unidirectional bezel that’s a little disappointing.  Doesn’t feel so solid.  No satisfying click.

Breakdown:  It’s a pretty complicated piece and you’re going to need to read the instruction manual even to set the time.  Setting the time/date, using the chronograph, seeing a second time zone, and setting the alarm, are all executed by way of the mode subdial at six o’clock.  Each function starts with pulling out the crown one click, then rotating the crown so the arrow is pointing at the function you want to use.  At that point it’s on to the next crown position, pushing buttons, etc.  It’s a perpetual calendar too, so setting the date is a bit of a process at first, but once you set it, you’re good for… well forever.

Easily one of Citzen’s best looking models of the last few years.
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The Challenger: Seiko SSC081 Solar Chronograph Compass
  • + 41mm stainless case, Hardlex Crystal, 100m water resistance
  • + Dial looks incredible.  Big fan of those fatter, horizontally stretched flight-dial numbers.
  • + Pushers feel terrific and have a more piston like look compared to the Citizen’s standard button type.
  • + Leather band is soft & that color is something.  The hardware is excellent if you like bigger stuff.
  • + Intuitive.  Just stupid easy to use.
  • -/+ Rotating interior bezel makes it a bit easier to use your watch as a compass.

Breakdown: It’s not like it’d take a 6-week course to figure out the Citizen, but after futzing around with that one for a few minutes, picking up the Seiko and not having to think was nice (yes, hooray for not thinking).  Each has a busy dial, but on just pure looks, the Seiko is going to win out for many.  The squat, Bell & Ross-like font looks terrific on the black background and the light band.  The compass function isn’t something most (okay, all) are going to use, but it’s part of that aviation panel influence.

New and real impressive.

The Winner:

Handing this one to the Seiko.  Many will disagree and that’s understandable since the Citizen is an incredible watch. If you’re into the busier sport-watch thing, then either is well worth the price if you’ve got a little over $200 budgeted, but the Seiko has plenty of functionality wrapped up in one great looking package for $20 less.

Note: At post time the Seiko wasn’t being sold direct by Amazon, but was being fulfilled by Amazon for a 3rd party.

Comments

  1. The thumbnail got me super excited. Citizen made a chronograph BM8475? Say it ain’t so!

    It ain’t so.
    Oh ok.
    Regardless, still a stunning watch.

  2. Methinks Joe might have a bit of a watch addiction.
    But it’s ok as long he keeps churning out the reviews.

  3. I had the Citizen Watch and sold it. Yes it is a very attractive watch, but if you do not have big wrists, its 43 mm size will overpower your wrist. I’d have to agree with Joe and give the node to Seiko here.

  4. Saw this Seiko at Costco a while back. Definitely a nice-looking, eye-catching watch. I can’t remember the Costco price but it was definitely more like $180 than $220.

  5. I find both a little too busy in my opinion, but that’s the same criticism I have of Breitling watches in general.

  7. I still have to say, with those leather bands, Orient Explorer is still the best. Better color option, better watch. So what if it’s a different type, no one asks what “type” of watch you have.

  9. Great review Joe. I’m with you on this one. However, I’d like to have that aligator strap to throw on the Seiko every once in a while to dress it up a bit. Can’t go wrong with either.

  10. Already have to many chronos…must resist…

    I’ve always liked that Citizen, but I’m really digging the seiko.

  13. couldn’t agree more. a lot going on with both those. if i had to choose, my pick would be the seiko for its simpler bezel.

  14. Funny, I had the same reaction as soon as I saw the Seiko in Esquire. Now to save up for it…

  17. has anyone seen a sporty looking chrono like the citizen, but in 40mm or under? i absolutely love the looks of the citizen but 43mm is just way too big for a 6-inch wrist like mine. (the seiko is still on the big side – and not sporty enough for my tastes.)

  19. My Citizen Eco-Drive crapped out on me after 4 months of use. Same with my coworkers. Maybe we got duds? They’re good lucking chronos for sure. Hope you gents have more luck,

  22. Stopped by Costco over lunch – the price was listed at $189.99. Not all Costcos carry the same watches so YMMV re: availability.

  30. After seeing the Esquire, and this article I picked up the Seiko. Arrived today. The watch is fantastic, and is far more hefty than its 41mm diameter would suggest. It wears about the same size as my Breitling Blackbird and IMO looks just as good (for 1/30th the price!). Easily the best watch I’ve owned at this price point. Fantastic.
    Also: It has an alarm (the subdial at 6 is actually an alarm) ..pretty cool.

  32. I have them both. Both are equally beautiful and brilliant time pieces. Cant pick the better one. Citizen is a real exercise in patience to set up though.