Knowing how to layer is a little like learning to speak another language. At some point you become fluent* and you stop carefully assembling your sartorial sentences piece by piece. Your closet blurts out a combination, and you know it looks good.
Even if you’ve been layering with ease for awhile, it’s always good to keep these guidelines in the back of your mind. And despite the use of the word “rules” up in the title, there are exceptions for everything. Trust your own eyes and your gut, but when in doubt, these rules for layering should keep your look on the safe but still sharp side.
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#1. Contrast is key when it comes to colors & patterns.
You can wear blue on blue on blue, but those blues better be at least a couple of shades different. You can wear patterns on top of each other, but small check on small stripe is tough to pull off. This all comes down to how easy it is for a viewer’s eyes to decipher where your sweater starts and where your shirt ends. If the colors and patterns are all too close the eye has to work harder and you’ll run into trouble.
#2. Textures matter. The rougher it gets, the less of that fabric you can wear.
This is similar to the color & pattern contrast rule. A rough tweed jacket over a crewneck lambswool sweater over a corduroy shirt will leave you looking like an enormous ball of fuzz. Yet a cotton chino blazer over a smooth cotton/cashmere blend sweater over a poplin shirt still works. The more noticeable the texture the less of that kind of thing you can stack on top of each other. Unless you’re going for the lumberjack look. Shown above: Three distinct textures. Moleskin, Lambswool, and Poplin.
#3. Dress like a Thanksgiving meal. You need a dependable main course.
Your outermost layer is almost always going to be the turkey. You need an anchor, albeit an awesome one, for your combinations. It’s the smaller things (like the yams & salads on Thanksgiving) that you can experiment with. Ties, shirt patterns under sweaters, etc. are where to take risks. See above. Imagine if the shirt was grey and the sweater was red checked. A little rough on the eyes, right? Bottom line, in terms of the Thanksgiving analogy? Screw with the bird and you end up with a Cosby sweater.
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Final Notes:
Shading – It’s usually easiest to start with your lightest color on the bottom and work your way up. That’s one of the many reasons why almost everyone looks great in a bright white button up shirt.
The slow build: Don’t jump ahead – There’s a method to layering madness. It’s supposed to be functional. That means thin & light stuff on the bottom, medium in the middle, then thick stuff on top. Skip more than a few layers and it looks too trendy, i.e. t-shirt under blazer.
The Trouble with Marled – Remember, marled fabrics are like patterns. A marled blazer over a marled sweater is really risky. Chances are it won’t work.
Outerwear counts – This is why most coats and jackets are solids. Because they’re going to be your top most layer. A black or navy double breasted mid thigh length peacoat is a can’t miss for winter.
The Fail safe Layered Look – White based cotton poplin or oxford underneath. Medium shade / subtle color merino wool V-neck over that. Finish it off with a darker sportcoat or blazer.
Great guide. I’ve always been afraid to layer because of how bulky or large I felt but I think that the “well-fitting-clothes” rule makes that no problem.
What is to be said about overheating? I’m not sure I could wear an oxford, a sweater and a blazer indoors anywhere without sweating. Is this just me? I often find it difficult to layer because I get too hot!
Great info! I can usually tell if something works, but sometimes it still takes a few tries. Hopefully this will cut down the experimentation.
I agree! The only way I can layer is if it starts with an A Shirt (wife beater) counting as 1…..
As much as I love to look good and use the advice here, I feel that my clothing selection is based on my “overheating/sweating” problem.
That is the beauty of layering. All of the layers also look good independent of one another. If you start getting hot, take off the blazer. Still hot? take off the sweater. If you’re still hot wearing only an oxford, see your doctor or walk out of the sauna you’re clearly in.
Love the Thanksgiving Meal concept – easy to understand and remember. I always learn something from these articles.
I’m a pretty warm-bodied person, so even in the midst of winter I can really only get away with 2 layers, or three max (excluding outdoor bundling). Blazers or casual jackets are the best option because they are partially open to begin with and you can take them off easily at any time. I’ve always had trouble overheating in sweaters, though – you can’t unbutton them for a little extra ventilation, taking them off is a chore (and a little embarrassing), and you can’t really hang them conveniently on the back of your chair like you can with a jacket. That’s probably why I own so few sweaters, and seldom wear the ones I have.
Question- If you’re going to layer a sweater over a dress shirt/tie, do you size up on the sweater? I’ve tried once before (so it just may be the sweater I tried) and I felt like I had way too much material inside the sweater. I I generally wear a M, do I buy a L or is it just a matter of getting used to it?
I don’t usually have a problem with overheating in sweaters, but I just got the cashmere / silk v-necks from Banana Republic that Joe recommends… You’d think that being 3mm thick they wouldn’t add much warmth, but they are HOT compared to my twice as thick merino wool ones… They’ll be awesome in a couple months when it really cools off, but damn…
Great question. I like my sweaters slim so I can wear them with only a tshirt underneath, but when I put them over a button up I feel like I am trying to fit a melon in a balloon. Of course, if I had a tailor this may not be a problem…
It all depends on the brand but my experience is that sweaters and outerwear is typically designed to go on as layers so it will be slightly up sized to begin with. Plus with knits, like sweaters, are going to stretch (a little or a lot depending on the fabric) as you wear them vs freshly laundered or new off the rack. So I’d generally stay true to size.
I myself don’t, but different brands might mean different sizing options. Today I’m three layers, and they’re all size medium.
I think this all depends on your internal mechanics, which will vary from person to person. I’m just fine in a shirt/sweaters/blazer combo. Ever since I worked in a building that for some unknown reason was bitter cold (they never could get the HVAC right) I’ve been okay in that many layers.
That said, overheating is another reason why the svest, despite it’s many detractors, is in fact awesome: http://dappered.com/2010/12/the-rules-for-sweater-vests/
Oooh. Dang, sorry ’bout that. From my own experience I always felt they were a little lighter and cooler as far as heat retention goes. Hope my suggestion isn’t causing you to burn through your deodorant or antiperspirant. Are you wearing heavier oxfords underneath? Maybe poplin is the way to go for now?
Yeah, that is a great metaphor!
What about a Cardigan? Do you have any advice for these Joe? I like the idea of not having to pull it off over my head, for example, in the middle of a warm restaurant.
I have the same issue, but for a different reason. My body temperature is below normal (Between 97.9 and 98.3 most days), so I get overly warm very easily. Most days at work, I tend to ge warm just in an A-shirt and a button up.
I’ve been thinking of adding in a thin sweater or two to my wardrobe, but the above reason makes me hesitant.
I’m the same. Even when it’s literally freezing out, a wool coat over pretty much any shirt will leave me sweating round the back.
Any suggestions for layering for the barrel chested amongst us? I’m 5’4”, wear a 46 short blazer, and feel like if I ever do more than 2 layers, I’ll look like Violet Beauregarde, post gobstopper.
Ha! No problem. It was the same Tyrwhitt shirt I’ve layered with the other sweater before. Maybe the office was warmer today, dunno.
Also have this problem. Part of my issue is not all of my slim fit shirts are “slim”, and the extra material bunches. I’m trying to slowly replace my ill fitting shirts. In the meantime I *carefully* stretch my v-necks- Mr. T style.
I wear a M Tall in BR (Cashmere/Silk Blend V Neck) and I’m 6’1″ 205 lbs, usually wear 16.5 x 35″ shirts. If I go with a L Reg, I feel like a flying squirrel.
Disagree with the conservative sweater recommendation. If you wear a Cosby sweater, you wear a Cosby Sweater. Furthermore, if you’re into a fairisle sweater look, there’s no other way to achieve it other rocking a fairisle design sweater. I have a few very nice sweaters that are much less conservative in design (contrast cuffs/detailing – one even has a contrast shawl top) which garner a lot of compliments.
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I’m right there with you, JRok. I love the look that the author of this article is talking about, but unless I can find a sweater that has about as much heat retention as a t-shirt I think I’m out of luck.
In the context of these particular rules, how do you recommend working up from solid black shirt, or is that more of a separate scenario type deal?
where can i find that tie in the first pic?
Where can I find that grey sportcoat? Ideally with patch pockets and for a decent price (including tailoring)… thanks.
i feel like this is 2 much thinking. function over design imo. if u r cold n gotta wear other layers then just put em on n look in the mirror. if u think ‘wow i look real swag/#menswear 2day” n thats what ur going 4, then just go with it.
A question on cuff-length when layering: is it a “style rule” to show some cuff when a shirt is layered underneath a sweater (similar to a blazer)? The picture under “Texture matters too” illustrates exactly what I mean. My intuition says yes; I think this looks cleaner and presents a more unified look between the layering pieces. What do you guys think?
It’s a pity we don’t have cooler weather that often in Atlanta…
This post gave me cancer.
I love the layer look but living in miami is almost impossible to walk outside in this look without sweating up a storm except for the 2 days a year that temperatures drop to 60 the rest of the year its 85 +. What fabrics would help in this weather
Same, but with issues in the arms. At 5’9″, finding a sweater with appropriate length AND arm circumference to layer is a nightmare. Usually even 2-layers is pushing it – I’ve yet to find something that can go 3-deep.
I’m sorry, but I’ll just go ahead and say what most of the regular readership is thinking. Can someone give this moron a grammar guide? There’s nothing stylish about sounding like a complete idiot. I can see why this person isn’t willing to attach his real name, photo, or email address to these kinds of comments. I’d be ashamed if this type of thing could be traced back to me too…
You could also cheat… Short sleeve oxford under a thin sweater. Just dont plan on taking the sweater off! Maybe consider a long sleeve oxford, sweater vest, and jacket you can remove when at your desk but looks put together with the jacket on. I know neither suggestion is perfect, but maybe it will help the overheating people.