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The case AGAINST pleats of any kind: Like the tri-corner hat, pleats had their time, but that time has passed and they should stay relegated to the dustbin of fashion history. There are still far too many men walking around in bulky pleated khakis that make them look like they’re packing a diaper edged with an accordion. Flat front pants have finally anchored their rightful place. We wear our pants on our hips now (until we reach the age of 70) and if you do that, pleats will bunch up and give you an MC Escher staircase lap.
The case FOR rethinking the zero-tolerance policy on pleats: You must be new here. Look, there are always exceptions, and when done right, a wool suit pant or trouser with a single pleat can look terrific. Pleats are the flying buttresses of the style world. Sure, not the cleanest looking design, but they serve a real purpose. Your hips, yes, even as a guy, are wider than your natural waist. So the higher up your pants go, that fabric needs to taper and come in. Pleats get that slight tapering done in an organized manner. Of course we won’t be wearing our pants as high as men did during the early to mid part of the 20th century, but the ultra low rise days of the early 2000s are over. Especially when it comes to suit pants and business ready wool trousers. Wearing your pants just a little higher (but not too high) makes your legs look longer. Combine a lower-rise suit pant and a modern cut shorter jacket, and all of a sudden you risk looking like you’re 70% torso. Are pleats necessary to look balanced? Not for most. But they shouldn’t be completely cast aside for those who want to wear their suit pants a little higher. Meanwhile, when it comes to chinos and other more casual pants… keep em’ on your hips. Leave the pleats to fabric like wool.
Your turn guys. Do you think pleats, when used sparringly, might have a place? Leave it all in the comments.
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My soccer-player thighs have been patiently waiting for their tasteful return.
Nope, no place; at least, not anymore.
Forward pleats used to fold in from the hips, slimming the figure, instead of today’s reverse pleat (fold-from-the-crotch), which inflates the hips.
See this post with comparison over at Style Forum: http://www.styleforum.net/t/197632/jl-powell#post_3565839
Try Bonobos. Great-fitting chinos for men with your body type and athletic thighs.
Pleats also get a bad rap because the fit of pants have to be rather exquisite to look great as opposed to plain flat fronts…
i have an old pair of pleated trousers that fit me perfectly… and i have no hesitation n wearing them. like beauregard, i too have big thighs. fit, as always, comes first.
While flat-front pants generally look cleaner, pleats have a definite place. First, for pants that sit closer to the waist than the hips, pleated pants have a better shape. They drape better. Flat fronts tend to wrinkle the crease instead of keeping it straight, and they also tend to develop horizontal lines just under the belt, from sitting. Second, pleated pants fit more body shapes than flat-fronts. Flat-fronts look best on fit men, and not so great on larger people.
A debate about pleats is a debate about pleats done incorrectly. Just look over at the “What are you wearing right now” threads on StyleForum. These guys are sartorial prodigies. They are often rocking the pleats how they should be done. http://www.styleforum.net/t/253439/waywrn-hall-of-fame-pre-2010
I have a one Zegna and two Canali suits with pants which have a single pleat. They look damn good …cuffed too 😉 However for Chinos it’s a no go. I would say fit and quality are still far more important than some rule which must be applied in all cases. I think I may have a pair of pleated wool slacks as well, not sure.
Old guys can definitely pull off the pleat
Fitzmagic?
There be a wizard among us.
I avoid them completely. I’m tall and thin so pleats look extra bad on me.
Looking at the comparison, I am not buying it. I see virtually no difference in the overall effect.
I wear my pants high and I like pleats. I’m 6’4″. As soon as they make the shirts longer, I’ll start wearing the pants lower.
I have 3 Burberry suits I picked up 6 years ago all of which have double pleats. I recently took them to my trusted tailor to see about having them removed. 220 each!! He suggested instead that I update the jackets (3-button) with a slimmer fitted cut and taper the legs in an inch or so. I also raised the rise. They look great. Not my fav look but they are beautiful suits and I get a lot of use and complements on their classic style, especially when worm with my AA strands.
Btw– anyone see the info chino deal on The daily hookup?? 320 for suit, shirt and tie!!! Can’t believe it’s not a feature on here with as much love as indo gets here!! Tried to paste the link…
You don’t see the difference? Most people do. The Muller-Lyer optical illusion works on a huge segment of the population. http://goldmark.org/livia/papers/cultcult/cultcult.html#figlines
Yessir, mentioned it on the Facebook page… gonna include it in the Friday Handful in case anyone misses it.
Wait, if I unfocus my eyes is it a pony? 🙂
I’ve hated pleats since that first day of parochial school when I had to wear crappy pleated pants as part of my uniform.
You might want to let people know that The Daily Hookup leans towards homosexual men and some of their deals are literally gay (see the tshirt deal they have going on right now). I used them for the Ratio shirt deal you posted… and it was a bit surprising to get an email with a bunch of burly dudes hugging each other a few days later with a tagline “Meet guys, get stuff”. Still good deals so I’m staying signed up.
I’m happy to know I’m not the only person who feels like they are wearing a diaper when they wear pleated pants. I have two suits with pleated pants (both Ralph Lauren) and haven’t worn them in years. I think it’s time to drop them off at the thrift shop – at least I can take a charitable deduction for them.
If it’s pant with a suit and the pleats are subtle, then I don’t have a problem with them. I can’t stand those huge pleats that Jos A. Banks puts on their pants. They make you feel like MC Hammer. As far as casual pants, like Khakis, no pleats, period. Then again, I’m not a heavier guy.
Go Bills!
I’m a convert. I’ve got a pretty generous hip area from years of lifting, and always struggled to find pants that were comfortable that weren’t pleated.
I’m getting better at it, and have replaced all my pleats other than on a couple of suits. It is possible to find a generous fit in the hips that isn’t 4 inches too big at the waist, you just need to look.
I just bought a pair of pleated pants this summer for a wedding after gaining some weight and needing a new pair. The bottoms were cuffed already (ubiquitous with pleated pants it seems), but I rolled them further and it made me feel like a boxer from the 30s. I loved it. Don’t rule out the pleats!
Ive never been a fan of pleats…My dad wears pleated pants…I dont care how cool or “in style” they become…They wont fly over here
Good style and fit is good style and fit. I think pleats can definitely fall into this category. When it comes to style there are certain things that when done right and properly are absolutely stunning. The same thing with a poor eye for style can just be disturbing to look at.
For instance a properly fitting and tailored suit can look awesome, but poor fitting and non tailored suit is just an eyesore.
Style is in the details, especially if you pull off something a little different than everyone else is wearing. These are a well fitting pair of pleated trousers.