In Person: J. Crew Factory Thompson Worsted Wool Suit

J.C.F. Thompson Worsted Wool Suit Jacket & Pant – mid $200s

Also available in Grey.  Size Shown: 38 Regular, 32/30 pant on a 5’10” 165-170 frame. Usually in the mid to low $200s depending on sales and codes.

It was big news when they released a couple new wool versions of the Thompson Suit that debuted last year.  And for good reason.  With the every so often 30% off codes J. Crew runs, the price on these drop to under $200.  Suits under $200 are either going to be boxy, have big shoulder pads, be made of polyester, or be some sad combination of all three.  J. Crew Factory’s Thompson suit separates are the rare exception.  They made a cotton version that was a success, and now… a navy.  Here’s what you can expect from the new, 100% wool models:

The Pros

• The Shoulders/Armholes/Waist: Not a lot of shoulder padding, higher armholes, pre-suppressed jacket waist.  You would think department stores would get a clue and replicate this trifecta, but nobody has done it nearly this well for under $250.
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• The Fabric: 100% wool this time.  Which is good.  But don’t expect some luxurious super smooth stuff.  This is a workhorse suit.  It’s a bit on the rougher side, but not stiff.  The kind of suit you can wear anywhere.  Or more specifically, places you wouldn’t normally wear a suit.
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• The Price: Going for the high $200s but during 30% off sales it’ll drop under two hundred bucks.  At that price, it’s by far the best bang for your buck suit out there.
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• The Lapels and Buttons: Trim but not skinny lapels.  And the non functioning buttons are a warmer brown.  Plenty of navy suits out there go with dark brown if not black buttons, which is fine, but you guys love your medium to lighter brown shoes.  So the buttons on this suit pop.  Also, the button stance is the Ludlow like low, and while it once again looks like the lapels end early before the top button, a light pressing with just a steamer can roll it to look just fine.
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• The Color: The navy isn’t super dark.  In fact, in some light it looks closer to a true, but still darker blue.

The Cons

• The Jacket Length: It leans to the modern/shorter trend, but it’s hardly noticeable in person.
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• The Pant Fit: Doesn’t seem to fit as trim as the jackets.  Expect some alterations there unless you’ve got really big legs.  Even with a belt, the 32/30s were sliding down my hips while taking photos.  Lots of bunching, lots of break at the ankles.  But that can be fixed.

The Bottom Line

Extremely well done.  Again.  Get it tailored to your body and your under $200 suit (when there’s a code) will look like it cost twice, maybe three times as much.  The color of the navy blue is dead on perfect.  A new, lighter grey is also available, and they’ve even increased their size range to include 36R and 36S.  Tip of the hat to BenR from the comments who emailed J. Crew requesting those sizes and also encouraged others to do the same.  Hard not to think you guys didn’t have an impact on their decision to offer those this time around.

Had to be done for old times’ sake.