Originally published 8/24/11
1. Thy clothes shall skim thy body. Not cling. Not billow.
As Beth so often puts it, you want your clothes to follow the shape of your body no matter what shape it happens to be. Even if you’re heavy. Too big and you’ll look weighty, too tight and you’ll be uncomfortable (or, make others feel uncomfortable). Honor thy seams. A shoulder seam goes on your shoulder. Not halfway down your tricep.
2. Thou shalt develop a relationship with a great tailor.
Worth mentioning over and over again. Having not just a tailor, but a tailor you’re proud to call your tailor, is a huge advantage. It’s the difference between looking good and looking awesome. It’s the difference between looking like everyone else and looking like you.
3. Thou shalt never buy a suit, blazer, or sportcoat with poor fitting shoulders.
It’s the easiest way to waste a large amount of money. The shoulders must fit off the rack. Stand next to a wall with the jacket on. Slowly lean your shoulder into the wall. The pad and your shoulder should hit at the same time.
4. The better shape thou art in, the better thy clothes shall fit and therefore look.
There’s a reason why guys like Daniel Craig look good in a suit. It’s because they exercise like hell and know how to resist that piece of cake.
5. Thou shalt remember that sizing is not consistent across brands.
A medium at Old Navy isn’t going to fit the same as a medium from Calvin Klein. It’s entirely possible to sway between a 38R, 39R, 40S, and 40R in suit sizes, and Small, Medium, and Large in off the rack stuff. Just depends on who makes it.
6. Thou shalt get thy dress shirts tailored.
There are very, very few shirts on the market that don’t require a little nip at the sides if you’re reasonably in shape.
7. Thou shalt embrace the medium break.
It’ll never go out of style. The medium break, slight break, or half break isn’t short enough that your pants are high-waters and stick straight, nor do they gob up around your ankles. Socks show when you sit.
8. Thou shalt button thy blazer when thou stands up.
This is more about utilizing good fit. If you don’t button your jacket when you stand up, don’t even bother to get them tailored. You’ll get used to it over time and eventually it’ll become second nature. What looks better driving down the street, a sleek car with great lines? Or that same car driving down the same street… with its doors open?
9. Thou shalt go with what thou thinks fits best, and be wary of those who say different.
How many times has a salesman in a department store tried to put you in a jacket or a shirt that’s way too big? Conversely, if you like your blazers a little longer and don’t like how the shorter tail-trend looks on you, then don’t budge on it. You know what looks best on you. Stick to your guns. You’re the one wearing it after all.
10. Thou shalt recognize that fit is paramount to everything else.
No matter how good the clothes look on a hanger, if they don’t fit, forget it.
.
Suit from top of page: The oft referenced Indochino Ultimate Grey three piece – $449.00 Full review here.
The last thing I want to do is criticize the almighty Joe’s style (which, in my book, is up there on the shelf next to “Beyond Reproach” by Sir “Killing It Every Day”, but enough with the arse-kissing) BUT….
I’ve been reading a little about ‘collar gap’ lately – (see the first part of Jesse’s post at: http://putthison.com/post/7215023321/collar-gaps-shoulder-divots-an-explanation)
It seems like there might be a little of that ‘collar gap’ happening in the bottom picture.
Not a criticism! But two questions – first: do you think collar gap is a big deal?
Second: any shirt/suit combos that correct that problem at a Dappered-friendly price?
Also – my understanding is that collar-gap happens when the ends of the collar are a significant distance from the roll of the lapel. That is, you shouldn’t really see the complete end of the collar, it should be covered by the lapel. Is that true?
Re: No.5
I generally wear a 44R. I was trying on Harris Tweed jackets last week and while the fit was too tight and made me look like a hipster, I could just about fit into a 38R.
Hey, this is awesome! A few that are common sense, a few that I’ve learned from reading Dappered, and of course some new tips!
I think No. 4 is so important and doesn’t really get talked about that much–though this is a style blog, I know. If your natural shape is frumpy, square, or round, the tailored-V look will struggle to succeed. In fact it may look worse than your average bag suit.
If you’re already in OK shape (not fat, but certainly not fit), it’s a pretty easy fix if you put some effort into it. I know I was able to do it, and I felt and looked great. Would never trade that for an extra hour on the couch or another fast-food dinner, though I have been a little slack on the exercise lately. Need to get back to it.
Another issue in that same vein: posture. I never hear it talked about. Ever. I realized recently that I slouch a little when I sit and don’t stand up straight when I walk. I’ve been working on it, but I must confess I’m not clear on exactly what I’m supposed to be doing. Head back, shoulders square, chest forward? What else?
“Almighty Joe” will have to now go on the business card.
In my opinion, collar gap is a good thing to keep an eye on, but not obsess over. That shirt you see is a smaller collar Alfani Red I still have on hand, but have since switched out for a more substantial Nordstrom Trim Fit with a bit of a larger collar that fits much better (and, jives with a suit jacket better too.)
Bottom line is this: http://dappered.com/2011/07/the-importance-of-not-overthinking-your-look/ You don’t want huge gaps of course because that means the jacket doesn’t fit. But you will be moving in the suit, right? It’ll shift from time to time. I’m thinking 99% of the world (or, 100% of those that don’t work at style websites / or read them every day) wouldn’t notice anything “amiss” about putthison’s examples. The pocket square is poofy as all get out, but, if you’re into that thing, I say wear it. At some point you just gotta get out and wear the clothes.
Yes, partially. That can depend really on how the shirt collar is cut. But collar gap can also happen at the back of the jacket between where the two collars (shirt and jacket) are supposed to meet. The hunchback of notre dame would most likely have an enormous collar gap back there.
Posture: Tim Gunn (my girlfriend was in the shower, okay?) recommends pushing your shoulders out. Basically what I do is keep my shoulders out and back straight, and that usually does the trick well enough for posture.
On the other hand, my dad advocates puffing your chest out as far as it will go. I find this unnatural, uncomfortable and unsustainable.
I must say, Heston looks good in a suit
OK, that makes sense. I’ll practice that. Might sound dumb, but when I’m in an area with a lot of people I don’t know (airport, mall), I really try to work on it and maybe overdo it. That way, I’ll get used to feeling that way but will only look stupid in front of people I don’t know.
Funny that Daniel Craig was mentioned earlier, because I think of him and how he walks when I do it (huge man crush, I know). Obviously most of that is gathered from movies and therefore not real, but there’s a real why he’s an international sex symbol and moviestar.
If you think about some of the people you know, their posture and body language says just as much, if not more than what they wear. If you slouch, don’t stand straight, or walk with your head down, people won’t notice you or take you seriously, usually.
Another way you can do it is take a deep breath, then relax your shoulders as you exhale. This straightens your back, brings your head up, and puts your shoulders in a comfortable position. And, at least for me, it’s easy to remember
Red Sea parting requires an unusual amount of range of motion.
That picture of Charlton is high-larious. Good list, Joe. Rules #3 & #4 are THE most important and absolutely non-negotiable. Shoulders should fit, shoulders should be fit as should the rest of the body. Mountain climbers…ready…begin.
# 5) There are few style-related things that piss me off more than the inconsistency in sizing across brands. Listen up, motherfuckers, it is not rocket science to figure out that the standard units of length are “standard” for a reason.
Daniel Craig wears his suits with “disdain” says Vesper, and it’s bad ass. His attitude and the way he carries himself does a ton for the look, but he also is in fantastic shape and wears nice cuts.
I can almost understand the variance in S, M, L – but is it *really* too much to ask that 31 means 31?
This is a great post with every commandment being so important to your overall look. I absolutely love the picture-hilarious and awesome photoshopping. Thanks for sharing.
Gotta love those Nordstroms smartcare shirts.
God this website sucks
Get to the gym.
Regularly.
Anyone have a tailor they’d recommend in DC?
Excellent article, Joseph. The nice thing about developing a relationship with a great tailor is they really can transform affordable shirts, pants and blazers into impeccable pieces. I typically wear dress shirts in the $18 – $35 range, and slacks in the $30 to $65 range, but they end up looking like a million bucks once tailored to fit my body.
I didn’t realize Joe liked to delete critical comments…
Any good tailors in San Diego???
Only when they’re as lame as “God this website sucks.” Sorta clogs up the conversation and can become a distraction. Most of the time it’s someone passing through who showed up as a result of a google search. If it sucks to him, that’s fine.
But here’s the scoreboard: http://www.quantcast.com/dappered.com
If that’s sucks, then I hope we keep on suckin’. Hard.
Anything else?
Only when they’re as lame as “God this website sucks.” Sorta clogs up the conversation and can become a distraction. Most of the time it’s someone passing through who showed up as a result of a google search. If it sucks to him, that’s fine.
http://www.quantcast.com/dappered.com
If that’s “sucks”, then I hope we keep on suckin’. Hard.
Anything else?
Any recommendations for tailors in Atlanta? (I’d love to stop offending Charlton Heston with my baggy clothes. Look at that scowl.)
There is a middle eastern tailor that works in the Macy’s at Tyson’s Corner Mall that is AMAZING! He did two suits for me and I will bring everything I need done to him. (Gotta work on the relationship as I can’t even remember his name though)
Any recommendations for a great tailor in the Boston area? Thanks.
Frank’s on the corner of Tremont and Winter Street, directly across from Park Street Station.
Any reccomendations for a good tailor int he NW burbs of Philadelphia?