Dappered

Affordable Men's Style

The Suggestion: Retailers… ease up on the tapered legs.

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GAP 1969 Garment Dye Denim Washed Khakis – $59.50

*The current GAPSPRING select customer code doesn’t work on these.  They would be $41.97 at 30% off.

Dear Gap:

Nice work on the new Garment Dye Denim Washed Chinos/Khakis.  The colors are nice and bold, the fabric is soft but still has a nice, solid weight to it.  And huge bonus points for the button fly.  Those of us who are Levi’s 501 fanatics would like to thank you for that.  They can be dressed down or up, should work great in the summer, and with sales and codes they could be a huge bargain.  There’s just one problem:

The legs are awfully tapered.

Less noticeable here, but another half inch in the leg would do wonders.

Slim is good.  No one likes a baggy fit that leaves them swimming in their pants.  That’s why a lot of us gravitate towards the 501.  But unlike the 501 which has about a 8 – 8.5″ diameter below the knee, these are about a 7″ – 7.5″ diameter around the calf and cuff.  That difference… makes a big difference.

Think of it this way.  501s are giving my calves a handshake.  Your new Garment Dye Denim Washed Khakis, as awesome as they are, are giving my calves a bear hug.  And my calves are a little uncomfortable with all this touching.

Nice work though.  Can we get a straight fit  to go along with the slim?  That’ll give a little more room below the knee.  And to all the other brands who might be reading this, let’s start backing off on the super tapered legs.

Sincerely,

– Guys with leg muscles.

Your thoughts on the tapered leg trend?  Is it starting to go too far?  Leave it all in the comments…

Comments

  2. Seconded. At 6’3″ and 170lbs with no significant meat on the sticks, anything that is straight legged looks like I’m wearing my Dad’s hand me down suit.

    As a side note, I actually don’t think those pants look over tight on you Joe, but I guess it’s how they make you feel that’s important.

  4. Sorry Joe, you may be the minority here. I like the tapered leg trend and I wish more brands did it. I’m glad Bonobos just released their “slim” line with tapered legs.

    Though I do agree that they should present “straight leg” alternatives.

  7. I agree with Joe re: handshake v bear hug. Close is good, tight is not. Straight fit is my go to.

  9. Hear, hear.  I suppose it’s the trend these days, but if you have any amount of muscle on your legs it’s often like shopping for spandex.  And I don’t wear spandex.

  10. Joe you are not alone. I actual have thought a few times that I might be a little too old or not thin enough for this site with the trend toward slim fit. I like things that aren’t billowy but sometimes feel the super slim/tapered trend should be left to trendy east coast teenagers. I routinely struggle with that line between classic and trendy. That being said if I was 20 lbs lighter I might feel differently.

    Good post.

  11. Just going on record as loving the tapered leg, I have most of my pants tapered at the tailors… IMHO it’s a much cleaner look.  I would love of a pair of these pants sans the flap pockets.  

  13. I don’t think they look bad at all in the photos, but at the same time, I do think the tapered leg thing can get pretty extreme. I tried the Alpha Khaki from Dockers last year and felt like I was squeezing into skinny jeans — not a good look at all.

    I also have mixed feelings about the button fly. Nice in theory, but in practice, I find a zipper makes for more…accessibility. Also, I don’t like the flaps on the back pockets. Kind of ruins the look, and I don’t really need them.

  15. Not to rain on Joe’s parade, but what’s so great about these?

    -Button flys suck.

    -Those external pocket flaps are annoying and if you sit on them wrong they will stick up for the rest of the day.

    -I can’t think of tapered pants without thinking of either anorexic hipsters or Z Cavarricis.  Either way, not good.

  16. As an avid cyclist with all my muscle below the waist, I still love tapered leg pants. If they aren’t tapered, they look like bell bottoms.

  19. I disagree Joe,

    I wish more pants are tapered. I find the slimmer look will work better with my dressier shoes. While the straight leg pants that I have look funny with narrow shoes. I have to designate those pants with my red wings or boots. 

  22. Nope, you’re right.  I was combining the terms diameter/opening/etc… Changed it up above.  Re-measured and my washed and worn 501s are about a 8 – 8.5″ in diameter (give or take with shrinking, etc…)

  23.  I think there’s a difference between slim and skinny, and that’s all how your individual body is built.  As Beth has said more than a few times: Skim, not cling, not billow.  These, above the knee, were doing the skim thing.  Plenty comfortable.  Below the knee though, man… they were a clingin’.  This really comes down to how everyone’s legs are built.  Just wish they made these in straight fits.

  25.  Yeah, as was mentioned in the caption, they don’t look half bad in the pics, but from the knee down?  These felt like tube socks.  Which was odd because from the knee up, they felt just fine.

  26. Thanks Mike.  The thing with these though, is they’re close from the knee up, and tight from the knee down.  I think it all depends on how the wearer is built.

  28. Funny enough – I love these and would go get them today….. if not for the button fly.

    It isnt often that i disagree with something Joe puts up, but the flap back pockets and button fly are the deal breakers – but to me, the fit looks awesome.
    Then again, I am a Levi’s 511 man (i even think my 514s sometimes look too baggy – they are more of my outdoors-wear jeans)

  29. I vote button fly…
    1) I don’t prefer metal teeth in that area.
    2) Button flys are easy for the ladies to tear open.

  30. I never thought after getting back in shape that pants would be so difficult to find. I’ve packed a good deal of muscle onto my legs and there seem to only be a hand full of retailers that sell decent looking pants in a straight fit that’s not actually just slightly less skinny. I almost want to go back to having bird legs. Almost.

  32. Oh man, if 514s look baggy on you?  Then yeah, tapered is the way to go.  Totally depends on leg shape/weight here. 

    I tried to get into 511s once.  I think I got them an inch above my knees and it quickly became a “oh hell no” 🙂

  33. I’m shocked at how much taper you guys seem to like. I’m 5’10 and 175 lbs and I wear 505’s only. I couldn’t imagine wearing 511s or 514s ever in my life because each pair I have tried on has made me feel like i’m wearing jeggings. I think what Joe said is dead on for most people. Maybe we just have a certain selection bias in the comments  towards those who prefer a severe taper. 

  34. own these, but i have one complaint: the flap on the back pocket can get a little wrinkled in the wash.  otherwise, i love ’em.  slim taper works for guys with a narrow waist/longer legs, not you curvy types.  slim pants for slim people, joe

  35. I want my jeans and pants to be able to fit over boots comfortably without getting caught, so I’m with Joe on this one. Another issue that doesn’t seem to come up as often in these discussions is that if, like me, you are taller and/or more widely built in the shoulders and chest, too-skinny pants are going to make your lower half look out of proportion. I personally look for a leg opening between 17″ and 18″ on my jeans and khakis, which gets funny looks from guys under 30, but works best for me. I think the real point is, having more than one fit option, for rise as well as leg width, gives more of us options.

  36. As a man with big calves and a smaller butt/waist, tapering always looks awful on me. They end up being loose in the seat and tight around the calves/ankles. Not a good look. I always go with the straight option. 

  37. Funny, I think the pants look pretty good in the picture. I recently acquired a couple tapered pants (LEC slim-fit chinos and J.Crew urban slim-fit chinos) and, while it took some getting used to, I’m liking the look of the taper so far. The J.Crews are a bit too tapered IMO, as they will sometimes feel like they are bunching up over my socks when I stand up. But FWIW, both my tapered trousers fit just fine over my Chippewa work boots.

    I should mention that I’ve got quite a lot of meat on my legs, so this isn’t just some skinny hipster preference. Dunno if this means anything to anyone, but my thighs are 22″ in circumference. I’m 5’9″, 145lbs and my legs are by far the meatiest part of me.

  38. I picked up a pair the other week and absolutely love them! While I prefer 501 or GAP straight fit, I was pleasantly surprised these fit me as well as they did. Being a cyclist and having larger legs, slim fit rarely fit. These pants are perfect! Only thing I don’t like about them is the buttons/flaps on the rear pockets.

    Whenever GAP finally does allow sale codes to be used on them I plan on buying every color. 

  39. Actually… just measured at the widest part (rather than the highest part) and they’re more like 23.5″.

  41. LEC slim fits are the best of both worlds for me.  Nice slim tapered leg with a thigh thats got some room to it.  Any word on how they compare to the urban slim-fits? or even the rugby university chinos?

  42. From my experience, the urban slim-fits have a more tapered lower leg, and a slightly higher rise, but are otherwise pretty similar.

  44. I have to say, im a little suprised with how many people are STILL a fan of the tapered leg.  If you’re a super slim guy with no real build to your body, then I see where you’re coming from and you guys can get away with that.  But for a guy like myself with a sprinters build, a tapered leg just over emphasizes the butt and upper leg area.  Also, like mentioned already, makes it extremely hard to wear non-slim suit-style boots, for example my Red Wing moc toe wedge soles.

    Personally, I think Dockers hit it spot on with their D1 Slim fit straight leg soft khaki’s.  Now if they could only apply that slim straight leg fit to their Alpha’s, they could very well be as close to perfect as a pair of khaki’s could get.

  47. I’m 6’2 but I have skinny legs, so for me these work just fine. Personally since the whole skinny pants craze I always had a hard time getting this kind of close fit on jeans or pants weren’t expensive (provided I could find any at all). These days it’s pretty easy which I appreciate alot. The pants look alright to me, but in Gaps defense it does say slim in the leg which generally means slim.

  49.  Above the knee they fit great.  It’s below the knee where they get into “skinny” territory.  Just my two cents.  I don’t know if I’d call myself slim though.  165lbs, 5’9-10″ish. 

  52. I love them.  I bought 2 pairs.  The bright blue and Merlot colors.  I want the rest.  The fabric is lighter than my BR chinos but they’ll be great for Summer.

  53. I’m with a lot of the comments here – we like our slims slim.  It took companies far too long to begin making them that way and we’re not ready to give them up to accommodate you guys with muscular legs.  I’m half serious.

  54. Yeah, frankly that looks like the perfect fit to me. But then, I’m not there, I can’t see if his calves are like…bulging when he walks or something. In the picture, though, they look perfect.

  56. Skinny jeans, and tapered legs work for best for me. Very happy with this trend. There are a lot of us that don’t like the fit of the 501 jeans but love the 511’s.

  57. Taper leg jeans are among the worst trends in the last 20 years. It looks like girlfriend is a bit of a fatty, and you’re wearing her jeans. Very masculine. 

    Simple rule: Taper above the knee = fitted, taper below the knee feminine. 

  58. I must say that it makes me happy that there are differences in opinion on this site and that we’re not all just fashion lemmings

  61. I as well.  Between that and the civility shown in the comments, the small team on this side knows that we’re awfully lucky you guys have found this hole in the internet.  Many thanks.

  62. I’m with Joe on this one – tapered is awesome, and the knee up looks/sounds great, but I’m not interested in getting asked where I left my chunky glasses, American Spirits, Chuck Taylors, and ironic mustache.  My mustache is perfectly fine as it is.

  63. At 6’1″ 160lbs I’ll continue the agreement. But as more of a loose-legged pants wearer, I’m not sure if I’d like the lack of freedom feel. The look, however, would be nice. And I agree with the others about your look here Joe

  65. Spandex? Alright, I’m 22, and I often wear 511’s. That said, my calves are behemoths, and I have well developed legs, sort of like this:

    Honestly though, I’ve never had a problem, either with comfort or my pants looking like spandex.

    But hey, to each his own!

  69. Having moved to England from the US last summer, I have to say that the tapered leg trend is huge here, and what is worse (I am not a fan), but the standard is to wear it tucked into combat boots/work boots. Have even seen that some brands are selling their trousers with elastic bands sewn in the cuffs just for this purpose.  Only time I’ll be tucking my trousers into boots these days is when I’m wearing my wellies in the mud!

  71.  It’s about proportion.  For me, at 6’3″ and a little extra padding, anything <8.25" at the hem just looks a little off.  Finding the right proportion of waist/inseam/opening will give you a dapper(ed) look.  These slim fits just seem too trendy.

  72. I have to agree with the consensus that I like the tapered legs.  With a 31 waist my ideal cuff is 16cm and it gives a great slim tailored look all the way down.  If I was a 36 waist I agree it would look odd. 

  73.  I think the bottom line with any pants is that there has to be a level of symmetry with the fit above the knee and below it. Here they went a little too aggressive with the taper below the knee. It almost looks like they took two different pairs of pants and sewed them back together. 

  74. I agree with Joe on this one, my calves wont stand for this new fad.. But I say let them have their tapered legs. Drives the prices down for the rest of us…

  75. As a “thunderthighs”, I need these in Standard fit, and I’m sad they don’t exist yet. Slim fit is a good way for me to um… ‘show the banana’ if you will.

  76. I have to agree with Joe. I tried these pants on today and they fit great from the knee up, but the bottom is way too tapered. The color, the soft material and even the button fly are fantastic. The ankle hugging leg opening, not so much. If they made this pant in a straight fit I would buy them in a heartbeat.

  78. These have become my go-to pair of chinos since gap came out with them about a year ago. Now that they have them in awesome colors, I think I died and went to heaven. I just got a pair of the bright red ones and I love them, but the fabric is thinner than the regular twill ones. Better for when temps are warmer I guess.

    I’m old fashioned, so I think the button fly is cool.
    The flap pockets don’t bother me one bit, but most of mine have the button hidden instead of going through.
    For me, the fit is spot on, but I feel like 514’s are too wide at the bottom. The taper makes my short legs look longer, I think.

  79. As long as I don’t have trouble getting the leg opening over the heel of my foot, I want it as tapered as possible. I ride my bike daily and it’s great not having to worry about my pants getting caught/greased up from the bike chain.

  80. Thank the lord, it takes me months to find pants that fit properly… all these chicken-legged men are ruining it for the guys who lift stuff for a living (or for fun)

  81. I agree with you Joe. From the comments above, I’m assuming that none of these guys workout whatsoever. smh. I have small legs and calves and I STILL run into this problem. Nothing destroys a perfect pair of pants MORE than when the taper below the knee is too tight. smh. A tapered casual khaki with a very tight pant also makes shows look awkwardly big. I hate it. Straight leg is def the way to go. Gap is hit or miss when it comes to this type of stuff. 

  82. I actually think these fit you quite well, can’t even see any tightness in your calves. 

  83. As a relatively tall, slim guy with an athletic build (6’1″, 170) with some (not huge) calf muscles and long legs, I welcome the tapered leg trend. I think tapered pants just fit better, and they also look better on me than baggier cuts. This goes for dress pants (think Photographer cut from Express), and slim khakis–both of which I own. Oddly enough, I just bought a pair of Levi’s 508 Slim Taper jeans, which I can’t get enough of. While they don’t look great on some guys and they aren’t for everybody, I hope this trend stays in for a while