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Dappered Classics – How to get a great haircut

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How to Get a Great Haircut

Originally Published June 24, 2010

#1 Consistency is Key

I’m not talking about getting the same haircut for decades on end.  I’m talking about getting your hair cut by the same individual every time.  Inconsistency breeds mistakes.  You need to develop a good working relationship with this person, and you can’t do that if it’s someone different each time you wander in.  Doesn’t matter if it’s a barber shop or a (deep breath) salon… find someone you like and stick with them.

#2 Get it cut every three to four weeks

Most men are on a five or six week haircut cycle.  For the entire first week it’s too short and too noticeable, leaving the opportunity for everyone and their mother to tell you “you got a hair cut!”  No sh*t.  The last week it’s frustratingly long, coming over your ears, and you hate it.  Lop the first and last weeks off and you get three weeks.  Just make sure you tell your stylist or barber your timetable.  That way your hair is always in that “just right” wheelhouse.  You’re just going in for an oil change, not a whole new engine.

#3 Be Specific

When your barber or stylist asks you what you want done to your head, don’t say: “A little shorter on the sides and top.”  How MUCH shorter?  If you want them to use a clippers, tell them what guard number.  If they’re using a scissors, stick your fingers in your hair and show them how much you want off.  Tell them how you plan on styling your hair.  That makes a difference too.  It’s not fair to make them guess.  Us guys just aren’t good at getting specific about our appearance.  It’s embarrassing.  Suck it up and tell them what you want.

#4 Pay attention when you’re in the chair

This might seem pretty basic, but it’s easy to zone off when you’re sitting there in front of the mirror.  Don’t watch their every move like a hawk, but remember that this is a bit of a team process.  If they haven’t gone short enough on the sides, let them know.  They want to get it right just as much as you do.

#5 Embrace the Straight Razor

Electric Clippers have gotten a bad rap from the likes of GQ and Esquire over the last few years.  I’m pretty sure both magazines have gone so far as to say you should never have your hair cut with an electric clippers.  That’s just ludicrous.  What’s not ludicrous, is requesting the use of a straight razor to shorten the sides and back.  A razor delivers the tightness with none of the bristle.  Plus you avoid that just got a haircut feel, and instead your hair looks like it’s been about a week since it got cut.  Which is perfect, since that’s when hair looks and feels the best anyway.

Comments

  1. I’ve been asking for scissors only (besides behind the ears and my neck) for the past 6 months and I come away with a much better cut. Electric clippers have been been responsible for some pretty awful haircuts for me.

  2. I would also add that avoiding chains is a good idea. While SuperCuts and Great Clips are affordable, you also get what you pay for. I actually avoid salons all together. I go to a barber, honest to goodness barber. I have the same people cutting my hair (one of 2 barbers) and they know what “my cut” is. I also use Shwarzkopf’s Got2B “Playful” creme pomade. It is inexpensive and doesn’t leave your hair crunchy or oily looking. Keeps it in place while allowing it to look natural.

  3. I definitely agree with avoiding the electric clippers. Scissors or razor cuts make the barber/stylist take their time in cutting your hair. I’ve had great luck with getting my hair cut at Aveda salons. When I make the first appointment I ask for a stylist that is skilled at cutting short hair with scissors or a razor. If that appointment proves to be successful I will keep making appointments with that person.

  4. “you should never have your hair cut with an electric clippers.”

    Unless you’re black. Scissors are for cleanup. Other than that, great advice.

  5. I really like the American Crew forming cream. I’ve been using it for about two years now, and I can’t endorse it enough — with DRY hair, however.

    On the other hand, Crew has reduced the size of the product, while not following through with an equal price cut. Thus, I am forced to go to the local Super Wal-Mart, where they actually sell it cheaper, and larger, than at the stylist I go to.

    No one should be get product at a Wal-Mart, but Crew is forcing me to.

  6. I was unaware that wal-mart sold Crew for a cheaper price. I’m gonna have to go check it out.I agree that the forming cream works wonders on medium to long hair. And the fiber is great also. I’m not exactly sure why you don’t think people should shop at Wal-Mart but I guess you must have your reasons. Is the price only lower at the Big wal-mart? or on the regular one too?

  7. I personally just don’t like (translation: can’t stand) the feel of a Wal Mart. Target has them beat when it comes to environment and selection. Take a look around peopleofwalmart.com It’s… something.

  8. Chris,

    Wal-Mart comes to town, builds with city development funds, decimates Main Street and many other tax-paying competitors, replaces those good jobs with low-paying ones and overall hurts the community.

    Just my opinion.

    I try to avoid the place, but sometimes there is no choice. However, I do by my Crew there, as well as a few locally grown groceries.

  9. Ok try getting a close taper fade without using electric clippers. With all do respect we don’t all want a “mad men” haircut nor can we all achieve that if we wanted to.

  10. I usually just walk in, show the person where I part my hair, and zone out. Next thing I know I’m handing $13 to the cashier and $2 to the haircutter. People usually tell me it looks good so why mess with that process if it works? Anyway the place I go, the stylists are Russians with minimal English skills so it doesn’t really matter what you tell them anyway. I used to get better hair cuts at the $4/cut barber school downtown but it takes too long to get down there.

    If you live near a haircutting school and have simple hair you should go to a school because you’re not only saving money, you’re doing a good deed helping students practice so they can graduate and make a living.

  11. These are great tips. I’ve been following most of them for a couple years now. I used to just show up at a * Clips (Master, Super, Great) and had inconsistent, sometimes disastrous, results. Now I go to the same place, a local “salon” for men with big TVs and free peanuts, (after making an appointment!) and get it cut by one of two stylists every time. I also have all of it cut with a scissors, it’s true that it makes them pay more attention and not just do a 15 minute buzz job. I get a wash with Crew shampoo and conditioner, a hot towel treatment and a nice little massage at the end for fifteen dollars. I come out with a great haircut every time and tip well so they remember me. Gave my regular stylist a 100% tip for my before-Christmas haircut and average 25-30%.

    Experiment with different creams and pomades and find one that works for you hair. I love American Crew forming cream too. Tried the pomades and the fiber stuff but that’s too thick for my hair. Forming cream is just “wet” enough to allow for some styling time and dries with a matte finish that’s not sticky or crusty but holds in place. Unlike Kyle I put it in while my hair is still a bit damp. Gets too sticky if I wait until it’s dry.

    I usually get my Crew shampoo and forming cream from Amazon but make sure to check out Target’s clearance section by the hair products once in a while; I found a two-pack of Crew shampoo for real cheap once.

    Now I need to schedule a haircut…

  12. Sometimes I dont think price or place matter I recently tried out a nice salon by my house and 1 hr and 45 mins and $60 later since she didnt use electric clippers at all I had the worst haircut of my life. So I went back to a women at sportclips (a mens only sort of great clips) and for $20 tip included I was out of there with a great cut in about 20 mins.

  13. I used to get my hair cut at an indie salon and pay a fortune for it. I ended up moving, but still drove 40 minutes to that place. One of my customers works for Great Clips and would always ask me to come in for a cut. I ended up giving her a shot, and now have been going to her for two years. I only allow her to use scissors on my hair!

    I like the Crew products, but I recently went back to one I used a few years ago, Redken Rewind. I love it, it’s pliable, you can fix it later in the day, and it’s not oily or crunchy.

  14. I’ve had my hair cut by the same person every four weeks for the past 5 years. Since she knows my head and hair well I’m always happy with the result.

    Up until 4 months ago I only had a razor or scissors used on my head. I’ve recently opted to a cut with more closely cropped sides – something that can only be achieved by clippers. As long as you have someone you’re confident in and who does good work, what he or she uses to cut with is irrelevant. Just figure out what you want your hair to look like and they’ll use whatever tools are most appropriate.

    I would add to No. 2, that you should schedule appointments well in advance. I go to a salon that allows me to prebook all my appointments for the entire year every fall. By doing this it forces me to get my hair cut on a set schedule and by booking so early I make sure I get the time I want – I not only get a cut every 4 weeks, but its always the same day and time. This may be overkill for some guys, but the routine and system really works for me.

  15. In all seriousness – get your hair cut by a young-ish black barber. I was in a black barber shop last week and the guy said exactly what I wanted to hear when I lamented terrible rushed cuts from Sport Clips etc. – “when you go out there, that’s my name, my brand on your head” [paraphrased and not quite accurate but close enough]. They treat it like a work of art (an actual phrase I’ve heard one say second-hand) and take pride in it. Obviously it won’t be 100%, but I’d bet you have a pretty good chance of success.

    /racism?