In Review: The Unconstructed J. Crew Factory Linen Sportcoat

J. Crew Factory Thompson Fit Unconstructed Linen Sportcoat – $78.00

Note: Since it’s JCF, prices can fluctuate quite a bit. Seems like the lowest this sportcoat has gone for is in the high $70s, and can go for as high as the low $100s. Also, don’t iron something while wearing it. If you do, you’re a dope. Shown above = Shirt by Ledbury (does go on sale), watch by Hamilton, Green Tipped Pocket square by J. Crew (unavailable, but this is close), iron by Rowenta.

This is going to be a love it or hate it item.

If you’re the type who, come summer, actively searches out blazers & sportcoats that have as little lining possible, as little structure as possible, are as lightweight as possible, and can also tolerate some wrinkles and lumps and bumps in the drape of the fabric? Then you’ll love it.

If you’re the type who wants his jackets to have a crisp silhouette and substantial fabric (albeit breathable fabric in the summer), then you’re gonna hate it.

Size shown is a medium (off the rack, unaltered) on 5’10” / 185 lbs.
Sleeves could be shortened, but mid section fits decent enough.

The new navy, 100% linen sportcoat from J. Crew Factory isn’t just lightweight, it’s a featherweight or flyweight. With a completely unlined back, no shoulder padding whatsoever, and just acetate lined sleeves, it feels more like a linen shirt than a jacket. And a wispy linen shirt at that. Now, it’s not falling apart in your hands, but that extreme lack of mass can make for easier rolling, buckling, and catching of the fabric as you move around. Especially if your frame has some wonky bumps that might cause the material to get hung up on them.

Inside out to show the unlined back. Very airy fabric. Translucent when held up to light.
Some will like that, some will not.

And be prepared to take an iron to it upon arrival. This shipped in a bag, folded in fourths. It was a complete disaster of wrinkles. Think Ronnie Wood falling asleep in the bath. The steamer wasn’t gonna cut it, so I ironed it (albeit carefully), and that kinda did the trick. Again, it’s more shirt than blazer, so ironing it might become the norm. Just be careful around the seams, with the lined sleeves, and don’t go too heavy with pressure or too hot with heat.

Despite the lack of bulk it still fits like a Thompson, with a lowered button stance and slightly long sleeves. Sleeve buttons are non-functioning per the usual, so tailoring should be easy. It has side vents in the rear, and there’s a bit of slight herringbone texture to the fabric. Nothing but patch pockets on this one which keeps it casual, but the navy makes it easy to dress up.

It’ll be an inexpensive lifesaver for someone who wants to stay cool while still wearing a sportcoat this summer (say at a wedding), but for others, the patience and compromise just won’t be worth it. Even at $80.

Some wrinkles & lumps. But sweat free for sure.