Paul writes tech and travel articles for Dappered. Recently, he’s been searching for the perfect cologne.
I’m starting to think I’m the Goldilocks of blue blazers. In high school I had one from JC Penney. It fit exactly as JC Penney’s reputation would have you think it fit – lapel notches near my nipples, cut for a man about 50 pounds heavier. I think I wore that blazer twice. After college, I got one from Calvin Klein. The fit was better but still not great. It was slimmer but not really slim enough. I wore it a handful of times but mostly it sat in my closet.
If Ben’s the Big Gulp in the size department, and Joe’s the 16-ounce American standard, I’m the size they used to sell in the ’70s before they ditched the concept of ‘small’ and just started selling everything starting with medium. I’m 5’6″, 120 pounds. Finding clothing small enough can be a drag, so I turned to Indochino a few years ago for my blue blazer needs.
I like my Indochino blazer a lot, but it’s still not perfect. I like that it’s on the edge of too small instead of being clearly too big. But it’s just not perfect. It’s not just right. I can’t wear a sweater under it, which bugs me. It’s just a bit too tight in the chest. Ideally, I’d make it a touch longer and make the waist taper less severe too. Yeah, I maybe could have had it tailored to fit slightly better, but it’s damn close and I’m hardly ever looking for another errand to run. So I’ve left it. I wear it. I like it … pretty much. I just don’t love it.
Then I saw shad0w4life’s Dragon Inside tuxedo on Dappered Threads. It’s awesome. Jack seemed to have a bit less luck, but I was intrigued. I hopped over to DragonInside.com and tried to learn more. They say their jackets are fully canvased, which is impressive. I learned they use UK and Italian wool and like the word ‘dapper’ a lot. They seem to know English real good too. Honestly, the site’s not all that different than Indochino’s. Either is the business model.
Anyway, I ordered some swatches and immediately forgot about them until they showed up in my mailbox. Got to be honest, I got a bit excited when I saw the envelope. Felt like maybe I’d intercepted a spy correspondence at first thanks to the cryptic, Cyrillic stamps. Here’s what was inside:
I’m eyeing their blue sharkskin blazer ($359). I wasn’t convinced about the sharkskin fabric choice, but I like the swatch — it’s deeper than the photo on the website. Not sure if I’m ready to pull the trigger though. Black Lapel’s option is tempting too.
What do you think? Is Dragon Inside too good to be true? Got any ideas for my smaller frame?
Everyone will have a different experience. I have not personally ordered from these guys, but I have seen some examples online that make Indochino mishaps look like examples of excellent bespoke tailoring. Often, the jackets look like they were made for children.
I have zero experience with them, but I like the middle swatch the best.
I’ve never ordered from them. But that midnight sharkskin sure looks great in the photo you posted.
First time hearing about them. Pretty much on the same page as you with Indochino and finding clothing. Luckily I am happy with a lot of BR stuff for things that are not suits.
5’6″ 120 pounds? I know what you’re going through.
I can’t possible order anything from a site where the average age of the models is 12. 😉
I pulled the trigger on their Dapper Navy three piece last
week and am anxiously awaiting the arrival of the suit. I own 2 suits from Black Lapel and a 3rd ordered a month ago that I just returned for a refund due to the fact that I didn’t want another remake (jacket length was way short and sleeves to long) from them.
Just like Paul I ordered the 3 free swatches and was impressed with their Navy (which they say is a Super 130 Italian wool) and it feels a touch softer than my Black Lapel Navy; however I must note their medium gray (super 100) definitely did not feel as nice as the Black Lapel Cool Gray I own.
For anyone that is interested in Dragon Inside (DI) I liked two things: 1.) they are very responsive via email and do not have the Black Lapel or Indochino 24 hour email reply response time, which is nice when you’re trying to get multiple questions answered in a timely fashion. 2.) Iliked how their profile requires you to submit 2 pictures- in working with Bobby (who is one of the co-owners) he followed up promptly and asked for a few more photos to address the collar gapping and bunching experienced with my Black Lapel suits. without a finished suit, it’s hard to say how DI will compare to Black Lapel in terms of construction, stitching, and overall quality. More to come….
One thing I forgot to mention is that even though their production factory is in Bulgeria – US returns for remakes and refunds are to CA and not oversees….thank goodness.
I went to order the swatches from them a few months ago, and the only payment method I could find Paypal… deal breaker for me.
their price point is too high for me to “try” (for me at least). I’d rather shop at a more established company if I’m spending in the $3-500 range.
Yeah we were also talking in the forums about how the models all look strangely proportioned and the jackets all pull at the buttons – kinda strange looking
Brooks brothers navy blazer in a fitzgerald cut. It has pewter buttons vs the standard old school gold and a 36S fits perfectly on my 5’7″, 140lb frame. Best 400$ish I’ve ever spent.
http://mensstylepro.com/?p=5172
Sabir did
Heh, I’m 165 – 170, and it’s hard for me to believe I’ve got 50 pounds on Paul. But he’s always been trim (we go way back). Not weak/skinny though. I was surprised to see that number from him.
But he is after all, a man who lived an entire year out of a minivan: http://drivinginertia.com/start-here/
As do I. I don’t like it 360 bucks worth, though… yikes.
Floyd Mayweather Jr. is 5’7 145lbs. Just sayin…
@disqus_yr0O5ra4ku:disqus the Black Lapel Navy is pretty dark, almost black in certain lighting. I really like the midnight blue color, as a white shirt really pops and stands out. Also it looks equally good with a light blue shirt too.
Pre-industrialization, the average weight for an adult American man was around 145 lbs (average height was about 5’8″, only an inch or so shorter than today). Most people were farmers and laborers, so they were no shrinking violets, either.
It should probably go without saying that the question is not whether “people eat anymore” but why people are eating so much and moving so little that what used to be average is now considered freakishly tiny.
You could always ask Bobby if there’s any promotions on etc, the do send out %25 off coupons and so forth from time to time.
I have 3 odd jackets, a few suits and 1 tux from them, the only issue I can think of is the pants had some type of hemming glue that I managed to undo in all of them. Extra bonus points for having the actual functional lapel hole with the proper latch behind.
Just to add in I have 2 charcoal;as they had to remake my pants and the fabric texture slightly changed so they didn’t want me to have a possible mismatch, and they were nice enough to change it from a peak to a notch so I didn’t have 2 identical charcoal jackets. Very slight difference in fabric colour and I can with both jackets with the pants.
I messed up on the length of my suit and have it a bit “trendy” as Bruschetta pointed out and then the suit supply suit I grabbed really made it apparent how much I prefer more length.
Suits are the toughest. Every other article of clothing seems easier.
But the goofy smiles! The huck-n-buck-esque poses!
Curious to hear how this ends up.
Good to hear.
I’ve been tempted by that, but if the 36S fits you perfectly, I may be in need of the non-existent 35S.
Lawyered
The roll-the-dice aspect is daunting. I have no interest in $360 hanger-warmers.
I’m about 6’1 and average somewhere around 150. Fast metabolism and staying decently active helps.
I’d suggest checking it out perhaps? The shoulders are perfect but I had to have it shortened a bit via the in-house tailor at my georgetown BB. It really is a terriffic blazer.
I’d honestly go for the Black Lapel navy blazer over the Dragon Inside… bigger range of customization (down to buttonhole colour) means the garment is more customized and has a better fit.
Plus, their stuff is pretty fantastic.
For super-small blazers… have you tried boy’s/youth sizes from makers like Brooks Brothers or Ralph Lauren? I’m a 36R and the boy’s 18/20 sizes I’ve tried usually fit me about the way I imagine a 34R probably would. If it fits reasonably well OTR, one of these jackets with a bit of tailoring could be perfect for a guy who’s fallen off the small end of the sizing spectrum.
If you live in Northern Utah or Las Vegas, there’s a really great custom clothing company called Dress Code. (www.dresscodecustom.com) They do custom suits that are amazing but they have to measure you in person. Makes for a much more accurate fit, alterations are free too. I have a suit from them and I just ordered 2 more I was so impressed.
I don’t think coloured button holes mean a better fit, that’s all on the individual measuring.
FYI My black lapel suit is my worst fitting one, they did a terrible job with the arms and I had to have them let out due to them assuming I was built like the blue steel face jackhole runty model (we had this discussion on forums about funny models) and my measurements are accurate and previously tested. I still love them and want a blue charcoal suit but their fabric is very sub par compared to suit supply for the price they charge.
My SS Napoli with tailoring was $600
It’s a YMMV type of deal, I suppose. I’ve heard only good things about Black Lapel and I really like their fabrics. But you’ve had great experiences with Dragon and I’ve had great experiences with Indochino. And everyone loves SuitSupply.
Tempting.
There’s a mental hurdle to overcome, but this seems to make some good sense.
Wow. Drove Highway 50 through Nevada then passed through SLC a few months ago and didn’t realize I should have stopped for a suit. Thanks for the tip!
where exactly do you give your measurements? i wanted to take a look at what they ask for before going through with the order…
Did you end up ordering anything from Dragon Inside?
As a pure technicality, a boy’s 20 is a 34 Short with the first men’s size being 36 Short. However, they don’t run the cuttings in that way, so you’re dealing with the largest pattern for the boy’s style at 20 and the smallest pattern in the men’s style at 36 Short. I’m small myself and wore 36 Shorts that I had altered all through my twenties. As I’ve gotten older and a bit heavier, I’ve moved to a 38 Short. You’ll just have to try different makers and move between boys and men’s until you’re happy with the fit. They’re just isn’t as much variety on boy’s and they tend to be inexpensive because the expectation is that it will be outgrown and not worn much.
Scott Anderson
AndersonLittle.com
Just got my first DI suit. I ordered the Midnight Navy Sharkskin suit, and could not be happier. Bobby and the team did such an amazing job getting my measurements correct (I’m very particularly about the pants, i.e. having it get real slim below the knee and having a precise 14.5 inch leg opening). The cut of the suit is flawless and the construction is brilliant. If you’re on the fence, don’t be, these guys are really good. Ordering a few more suits this week.