All things in moderation… no?

That Ralph Lauren you see on the left is Italian made, has a solid construction, and is equipped with a timeless fine dot pattern.  But it’s 3.5″ in width.

The J. Press for Urban Outfitters on the right?  Crazy cheap at under $20 and simple.  But it’s a measly 2″ in width.

Like the rise and fall of women’s hemlines, the accepted width of men’s ties seem to expand and contract like a well used accordion.  So what’s as skinny as you’ll go?  And when is a tie too fat for you?  Or does it mostly depend on collar size, type, and the lapel width on your jacket?

Leave your answers in the comments section below.

Use code RABBIT at checkout for discount.  Expires 2/7/11

Goodbye tiger, hello rabbit.  The Chinese New Year officially happens on February 3rd, and it’s as big of a deal as it gets for a massive part of the human species.  Not just a one day celebration but one that goes on for a couple weeks, the Chinese New Year is a time for those who celebrate to travel, visit family they haven’t seen in awhile, and celebrate.  The guys at Indochino are getting in on the act with a 20% off everything sale.  Just use the code Rabbit to see the discount.

Shipping won’t be as lickity split as is usually the case with Indochino because most of a hemisphere is on vacation.  So expect your items to show up in 4-6 weeks instead of the usual two.  Here’s three items to consider:
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Black Lightning Tie – $31.20 SHIPPED (reg. $39.00)

A good price on a great looking tie.

Slick.  2.75″ in width so it’s professional but not fat either.  Ready to handle a four in hand or a half windsor knot.  As long as you work some color in somewhere (think, blue shirt) it should go with plenty of suit combinations.  Precisely what a tie should look like.  Now if they’d just make one in navy too.
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Essential Charcoal Suit – $279.20 SHIPPED (reg. $349.00)

Hard to screw up.

Along with a navy, the foundation for any guy’s suit collection.  No stripes, no goofy patterns, no nothing.  Just a well cut, trim, charcoal suit.  Let’s your choice of watch and shoes do the most talking.
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Wool/Cashmere Camel Overcoat – $279.20 SHIPPED (reg. $349.00)

Not your average drab piece of outerwear.

More dressed up than a standard black peacoat or overcoat.  10% cashmere, the rest wool, slim lines.

The 20% off everything code: RABBIT ends 2/7.  Remember that shipping will take 4-6 weeks this time.
Not sure what Indochino Suiting is all about?  Click here for an explanation.
If you’re looking for a full review of one of their suits, you’ll find that over here.
If you do buy something from Indochino, make sure to take advantage of the $75 re-tailoring credit.

Seventy Five dollars.  That’s a lot of money.  It’ll get you a couple pairs of Levi’s, a nice dinner out, and it probably took care of one, two, or three people on your Christmas list this year.  But the holidays are over.  Selection is paltry at best at the stores.  Their stock has been picked over worse than a yard sale at 3:00pm in a retirement community.  The credit card bills are on their way if not already here.  So perhaps you want/need something, but you can’t go hog wild.  Setting a limit is best, but is there really anything out there worth considering?

Seventy Five dollars.  It is a lot of money, especially if you spend it right.  Ten picks follow, all under $75, and some of them are much, much less.
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1. Boden Unstructured Blazer in camel cord or navy twill – $74.00 (reg. $128)

Left: Interesting. Right: A foundation for your wardrobe.

One of the questions that gets emailed in the most is “where can I find an affordable unstructured navy blazer?” Unstructured = no shoulder pads.  Here it is guys.  The camel cord option looks decent too, but it’s the navy you’ll reach for time and time again.   Sizes are limited, 38 and 40 available in each. For now.
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2. Nautica BFD 101 Tan Dial Watch – $67.22 ($95.00)

Great hands and a different dial.

Looks like this is last year’s model, which at 44mm is darn near slim compared to the new 50mm model.  A better fit for your wrist, and the perfect match for your favorite pair of brown casual boots.  Not sold or fulfilled by Amazon though, so just be aware of that.
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3. BOSS Black Leather Card Holder – $68.99 (reg. $85.00)

Dark but still unique.

Expensive for just a leather card holder… but it’s the stripe that makes it.    And I’m sure it’s the stripe that also will ruin it for some.
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4. Alfani Double Gored Plain Toe Boot – $64.99 (reg. $99.99)

Simple. Keep it up Alfani.

Macy’s is doing a “buy more save more” deal on their website right now.  So if you spend over $50, you get $10 knocked off your purchase.  Over $100, you get $20 taken off.  The savings don’t show up until you checkout, so… don’t flip when you see the purchase price online.
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5. Indochino Black with white stripes simple tie – $39.00

Nothing wrong with this.

That right there is how a tie should look.   Not skinny by any means but not over 3″ either.  This is a serious tie for when you need to look as sharp as possible.  Pair it with a gray suit and blue shirt, or a Navy suit and white shirt.
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6. ASOS Single Breasted Check Wool Mix Coat – $51.72 (reg. $172.40)

Really... REALLY cheap.

Sure it’s basically a 50/50 wool to poly mix.  But for $50?  With XS, S, M, and L still available?  It’s pretty low risk for the guys who want something other than their standard black wool winter coat.
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7. Converse Garment Dye Jack Purcell – $39.90 (reg. $59.95)

A perfect sockless sneaker for summer too.

A little beefier than the Chuck Taylor, the Jack Purcell by Converse is a can’t miss casual court sneaker.  They’re more comfortable than Chucks, and they’re on sale now for under $40.  Not a bad deal at all.
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8. Rugby Leather Patch Cardigan & Shetland Shawl Stripe Cardigan – $74.99 (reg. $128)

Both are listed at $99, you'll see the extra 25% off in your cart.

You only need one of these “it’s cold, I need another layer” cardigans in your closet.  But when you do pick one, make it one that’s got a nice stand out detail.  The Wool Leather Patch cardigan has those (hated by some) elbow patches, while the shawl cardigan has stripes at the cuffs.  Both are 100% wool.
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9. Ben Sherman Canvas Computer Bag – $53.99 (reg. $119)

Nothin' fancy. Dirt Cheap.

This is what I carry.  One day I’ll get a Filson.  And then maybe one day I’ll get a Saddleback.  But for now, this gets the job done.  It’s trim, blends in, and there’s a top handle on either side so it’s balanced perfectly.  Great for guys on the move who need a computer to come with them.  16″ wide.  Free 2-day shipping from eBags too.
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10. A round of drinks for your friends – $$? Depends on what you’re buyin’

Might be the best $75 you spend all month.

C’mon.  Is there anything better than treating a great group of people to a round?  And don’t wait till your three drinks in.  Pick up the first round of happy hour.  When it’s least expected.  And expect nothing in return.

Above beer photo credit:  vmiramontes

For neckties, this is about as “crazy” as a lot of us like to get.  And although it seems like we’re on the down-slope of the prep fad, the Golden Fleece logos are subtle.  Meaning the tie won’t feel like a dated trend when dressing like an Ivy Leaguer goes completely out of vogue.

It’s not a tie you’d want to wear to a job interview, an important business lunch, or God forbid a funeral (especially not a funeral.)  It’s kinda casual and fun, but still suit ready.  A few clicks up from a knit.  Light years apart from a tie with a fish on it.

2 7/8″ in width might not seem slim at first, and $45 might not seem all that affordable for a tie either.  But it’s Brooks Brothers, and they’ve been making traditional cut spendy stuff since The Monroe Administration.

It’s substantial but not fat, different but not ridiculous, and a bit of a splurge but not a check book wrecker.  Silk woven in England, tie made in the good ol’ USA.

Don’t want to look too preppy?  Get one with a tonal logo like the orange or green.  Also available in red & purple:

The first half of Esquire’s wish list of stylish designer gifts for men included a $4,000 briefcase, a $460 pair of camouflage driving mocs, and a sport coat so expensive that the price was only available upon request.  Sure that stuff is fun to look at (except for the dreadful driving mocs) but hardly any of it is attainable for the average guy.

Below you’ll find affordable alternatives to the second half of their list.  Everything from cufflinks to a watch to a case for your iPad (if you’ve got one.)  You know the drill, click below to see Esquire’s list, then head back this way for the wrap up.

And since these are all designer gifts, even our more affordable options might be expensive… so be warned.

Click here for Esquire's list of the best designer gifts for men

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1. The Cufflinks – Esquire: Zegna -$5,200 | Dappered: Tiffany & Co. – $225, J&M – $45

Tiffany & Co, Johnston & Murphy

$5,200 for Rose Gold and diamond Zenga centennial celebration cufflinks huh?  A lot of us aren’t driving cars worth $5,200.  If you want to spend a little and get something that will never, ever go out of style… the Tiffany & Co. 1837 cufflinks are small, subtle, and the engraving adds texture while quietly broadcasting where you got them.  Usually logos or trademarks are a bad idea but, c’mon… it’s Tiffany.  If $225 for a few small connected bars of silver seems ridiculous to you, Johnston and Murphy sells an easy to use pair of knots for just $45.  Don’t want any flash but still want something big time?  Really big time?  Try these.
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2. The Ski gear – Esquire: L. Piana – $10K | Dappered: Bulova – $479, Casio G-Shock – $80

So they're not a leather covered ski helmet.

If skiers are like runners (I don’t ski), they’re probably pretty particular about what they put on their feet.  So giving a gift of boots or a helmet might be a risk.  But who doesn’t like to know what time it is?  Get them a hill ready watch that can look right at home once they hit the lodge.  The Bulova Kevlar is expensive, and probably the toughest thing about it is the Kevlar band.  The Casio G-Shock is downright cheap, and can take a massive beating.  Plus, the Casio is solar powered so you never have to worry about a battery.
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3. Weekend Bag – Esquire: Hermes – $6,450 | Dappered: L.L. Bean Signature Duffel – $135

LL himself would be proud.

Somewhere between this bag from Brooks Brothers, and the old Nike bag you used to lug your soccer/hockey/baseball equipment in, lies this thing.  No nonsense waxed canvas exterior with suede and leather trim.  Looks like it’ll get better with age.
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4. iPad Case – Esquire: D&G – $275 | Dappered: Kenneth Cole Charcoal Wool – $68.00

Kenneth Cole suits up the iPad

This is the iPad case your Grandfather would have used.  Or… something.  The D&G version is snakeskin.  ‘kay.  The wool is a little more down to earth, and the sheep gets to stay alive.  A win win for everyone.
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5. The Boots – Esquire: Louis Vuitton – $990 | Dappered: Florsheim Gaffney – $120

Refined plus a little rough.

Make no mistake.  Those LV boots are something else.  But the Florsheim pair (which showed up on this website a week or so ago) are a tenth of the price.  They deliver in the looks department too.  Maybe not to the level of the Louis Vuitton boots… but still.  Not bad.
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6. The Cologne – Esquire: D&G – $55 | Dappered: Jack Black Cool Moisture Lotion – $22.00

Smell good without using cologne.

A guy’s chosen scent is more personal than his running shoes (or ski boots).  So unless he’s hinted around at swapping out colognes, or… if he’s the type that doesn’t wear any, a safer play is this standard from Jack Black skin care.  Moisturizer that smells clean, masculine, and works pretty well too.
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7. The Watch – Esquire: Cartier – $5650 | Dappered: Tissot stainless – $179, leather – $169

Not as impressive as Cartier, but still a great brand.

It’s tough to get more dressed up than a white dial with black roman numerals.  Some guys will gravitate towards the stainless steel band, others the leather.  Regardless, the Cartier is a work of art, while the Tissot’s are a great substitute for the rest of us.  Careful though, these are on sale through Amazon, but not sold BY Amazon.  So buy at your own risk…
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8. The Robe – Esquire: Brunello Cucinelli – $730 | Dappered: J. Crew – $69.50

One of the cheaper things J. Crew makes.

You’re either a robe guy or you’re not, and there’s not a lot of men on the fence.  Esquire suggests a hooded robe.  Unless you’re a boxer, feel free to keep your robe hood free.  That way if you truly are kicking back in your favorite fireside easy chair (are you smoking a pipe and reading the paper?) the hood won’t make your neck uncomfortable.  J. Crew makes one in flannel for under $70.
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9. The Tie – Esquire: Brioni Cashmere – $250 | Dappered: Lands’ End Wool – $39.50

Available in multiple patterns and solids

The Cashmere will bring a deeper texture than silk, and the same goes for a standard wool.  Plus, if you skip the cashmere and go with one of these from Lands’ End Canvas, you’ll save about $210.  The navy and gray solids are must haves, while the plaid is a nice bold change of pace.
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10. The Umbrella – Esquire: B. Veneta – $940 | Dappered: Totes Gent’s Umbrella – $16.00

Keeps the rain off just as well as the $940 version.

It’s an umbrella.  Not a top of the line suit.  If you’re spending a grand on an umbrella are you really smart enough to even come in from the rain?  Stick with the Totes Gentleman’s stick umbrella.  Classic and inexpensive.

Question comments and additions go below.  For the first ten, click here…

Originally published 3/7/10

Ties with simple patterns let the cut of your suit and an accessory do the talking.  Your suit is the headliner.  Your tie is the opening act.  Don’t ever confuse the two.  Your tie shouldn’t distract from your suit, and that’s precisely why every guy needs a pin-dot, thin stripe, and plain’ ol matte solid tie in his collection.

A simple thin stripe will work with solid and even lightly pinstriped suits.  Just limit your stripes to two pieces of clothing, and always have your tie’s stripes be the bolder of the two pieces you’re wearing. Matte solid looks great as long as you’ve got some color worked in there somewhere.  Wearing this matte solid slim Gray Tie?  Don’t wear a black suit.  Go Navy and you’ll look downright presidential.  Basic, solid, and not too Regis Philbin.

A favorite has to be Pin-dots.  Pin-dot ties are terrific because they add depth to the center of your torso, they’re classic, and they also have just enough character.  But a word on the dots:  You want some space between them.  You want pattern, not a seizure inducing wall of punctuation.

Keep em’ slim (but not super skinny), wear a great suit, and you’ll look like you own whatever place you happen to be walking into.

(Ties from Left to Right:  Express Stripe – $39.50, Calvin Klein Matte – $27.99, J. Crew Pindot – $49.50)

You’ve read the complaints on this site time and time again.  It’s tough to find simple and slim neckties.  Most department store ties have patterns that are borderline ridiculous.  While the widths on those ties are either aircraft carrier wide, or pencil thin.

Those problems don’t seem to exist at TheTieBar.com.  And I’ve got a ton of emails from you guys to prove it.  The selection is huge and most of the ties look great.  The stripes and patterns won’t give you a migraine, and they’ve worked textures like wool and knit into their line up.   GQ is downright fawning over them, and the best part?  Most of their ties are $15.00 ($15.99 on Amazon).  Check out some of their best…

All of the following (w/ one exception) are from the 2.5″ “skinny” line, which is really more slim than skinny
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The Wools: Brown Wool Light Blue Stripe – $15.00 | Black Wool White Stripe – $15.00

Slim tie, skinny stripes.

Wool and thinly striped.  Perfect for any season, not just the cold ones.  The black and white is business ready and that brown one could easily upgrade your jeans and lightly structured blazer look.
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The Patterns: Fleur de Lis – $15.00 | Charcoal with Pindots – $15.00

2.5" on the left, 3.5" on the right.

The Fleur de Lis tie has that prep pattern vibe to it, but it looks much more grown up than say, shields or repeating skull and cross bones.  If you’re a minimalist believer in the black wool two button suit, the charcoal and light blue pindot tie should be in your arsenal.  Tough to wear with a standard grey suit, but could work with navy.  A warning, that’s the one pick in this lot that’s 3.5″ wide.  So if you can’t hang with that, best to skip it.
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The Preps: Navy/Red Trad Stripe – $15.00 | Burgundy Knit – $15.00

Ivy League

Yes a return to preppy American roots is huge this year.  No you shouldn’t go all Brooks Brothers 1924 and wear that look head to toe.   You’ll just look like you’re in costume.  But mixing in a trend-based accessory like either of these ties wouldn’t harm anybody.  In fact, the navy and red silk stripe is downright timeless.
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The Just Different Enough: Glen Plaid – $15.00 | Navy and Yellow Dots – $15.00

Classically loud and... some yellow.

What’s the old saying?  Wear just one thing that really stands out?  Glen Plaid does that.  Easily.  Keep everything else you’re wearing toned down.  And yellow in general is tough to miss. But in small amounts on your tie?   Not bad at all.

If you have any experience with TheTieBar, let us know how they did (and if you like your purchase) in the comments section below.

Last things on, first things noticed.  And sometimes way cheaper than everything else you’re wearing.

These three accessories from Topman kinda signify what their brand is all about.  Inexpensive, stand-out, and to the point.  All unique, all will set you back less than that Friday happy hour you’re heading to (unless you’re sticking to High Life).

The tan military webbing belt looks like the fall/winter version of the brighter web belts that became so popular this summer.  For the tie, it’s a wool mix with basic stripes.  2.5 inches at it’s widest point.  About as good as it gets.  And the wallet?  Different.  But not in the velcro wallet kind of way.

And never, ever… will anything be good that’s different “in the velcro wallet kind of way.”
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Can you find cheaper ties for under $40?  Of course.  Will they tie as well, look as good, or be what you reach for when you have to be all business and at the top of your game?  Probably not.

This is the kind of tie you hold onto for your biggest days.

A pindot tie is one of the three ties every guy should own, and the dots on this Ralph Lauren tie are a perfect example of what you want.  Small but not tiny, and the spacing between each dot is dead on.  The solid black background makes it the perfect choice for a blue shirt and gray suit, or… you can look like an (extremely well dressed) diplomat in a deep navy suit and white oxford.

It’s 3.5 inches wide so it’ll tie a nice sized knot and anchor your look.

This isn’t a tie you wear under a sweater or just alone with a shirt and slacks.  This is a tie for a well tailored suit, shined black shoes, and your favorite watch.

Currently on sale at 65% off for just under $40.

Above:  J. Crew Worsted Wool Ludlow Suit – $590.00

Anyone can wear a suit.  Anyone with enough money can buy a tremendously well made suit.  But it’s the attention to a few key details, not the money spent, which sets a small group of men drastically apart from the suit wearing masses.  Keep an eye on these six details and you’ll soon find yourself miles ahead of the male style peloton.

In order of priority, with what gets noticed most, and first.

1. The Fit and Tailoring

Wrong vs. Really Right. Via GQ

The easiest and most important step to looking great in a suit is to get it tailored.  Buying a suit and not getting it tailored is like buying a sports car and never going over 25mph.  What’s the point?  This is your suit.  It has to fit you.  You want a V-shape, darted in at your sides, with shoulder pads that drop off where your shoulders end.  The jacket sleeves should show about a 1/4″ of shirt cuff, and your pants should be neither baggy or high-water short.  Need a perfect example?  Take a look at Chuck Liddell in the August 07 issue of GQ.  That’s how you do it.
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2. Your Shoes: Johnston & Murphy Gillum Runoff – $104.00 (reg. $124.95)

A bit expensive but... damn.

As an upright human being, you’re mainly vertical.  Your feet are always horizontal, parallel with the earth.  So if your shoes look off, there’s no hiding them.  Your toes should be rounded points, or slight chisels.  No squared off Frankenstein shoes.  Also stick with modern lengths that provide a little extra length in the toe and keep it sleek through the mid section.  For all that (and some sweet extra stitching at the toe) try the Johnston & Murphy Gillum.
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3. Your Watch: Armani Steel Chrono – $295.00 | Skagen Brown Multi – $78.00

Sharp and Bold or Barely There.

You can keep it clean and classic with a plain round case, a little thicker with a slimmed down chronograph, or even super dressed up with a rectangular tank.  But if you just don’t wear a watch period, you’re missing the opportunity to say quite a bit with a very small piece.
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4. The Shirt Collar and Tie:  Navy & White Stripe Tie – $15.99 | K. Cole Dress Shirt – $29.99

Simple tie, simple shirt.

Think of wearing a suit as Thanksgiving dinner.  The fit and tailoring is the bird.  Pretty easy to take care of but God help you if it’s not done right, or worse yet… doesn’t make it to the table at all.  Your tie is the starchy side dish.  Throw something goofy out there like multi-color marshmallow yam casserole, and it’ll detract from the entire meal.  Just mash some potatoes and everyone will love it.

Translation:  Keep it simple.  And do the opposite of what Chris Berman does.
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5. Your Pocket Square

It shouldn't look like your pocket is exploding.

It’s worth repeating:  a pocket square is like steroids for your suit, with none of the side effects.  I don’t care that it seems like a flash in the pan fad that’s starting to fade.  You can wear a slim, folded, white pocket square from now until the end of time, and you’ll look all the better for it.  Yes you can mix in patterns.  No you shouldn’t let it poof out of a pocket.  It’s called a pocket “square” not a pocket “lump.”  Keep those angles at 90 degrees.
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6. Your Socks: Banana Republic Argyle Sock – $8.50 | Target Merona Striped Sock – $2.50

Nothin' wrong with black either.

It’s the one place a minimalist guy can show some bright colors and it looks terrific.  Gray suit, white shirt, navy tie and black shoes?  Throw some big bold stripes in there for the hell of it.  Wearing a patterned suit and a not-so quiet shirt and tie?  Keep the socks toned down.

Agreements?  Disagreements?  Extra tips that were missed?  Leave it all in the comments section below…