1. Cut the tags off and cut the vents and breast pocket open.

Basic, yes.  But there are more than a few guys walking around with the vents on their jackets still sewn shut.  Take a small nail scissors and carefully ease your blazer’s breast pocket open.  First time you go to add a pocket square you’ll be glad it’s already done.

2. Leave the front pockets closed.

Keeping the front pockets on a blazer closed helps the jacket retain its shape.  Especially if it’s a $50 cheap-o from Old Navy.  Besides, you’ll want to carry your card case in the interior pocket.

3. Take it to your Tailor and have the sides brought in.

Your shoulders need to fit off the rack, but the vast majority will need to have the sides tapered.  Otherwise you’ll end up having the same shape as barrel man.  Even if it’s a slim fit blazer, take to the tailor and get pinned up.

4. Hang it on a wide shouldered hanger

Repeat after me:  No… wire… hangers.  Not even standard plastic will come close to doing right by your blazer’s shoulders.  Gravity is hell on your clothes.  Especially if your blazer is hanging on a might as well be a razor regular hanger.  Invest in wide shouldered suit jacket hangers, and don’t depend on those flimsy plastic covers that your dry cleaner sends you home with.

5. Never machine wash it.  Ever.

Doesn’t matter if the tag says you can, doesn’t matter if it’s all cotton.  Imagine soaking your blazer with a fire hose, and then allowing two Elephants to execute a four hour booty call on top of it.  Washing machines will have a similar effect on your blazer’s shape.  Dry clean or hand wash only.

Pictured Below:  The new 14-wale J. Crew Sportcoat in grey.  In-person review will show up on the site this week.

Discount shows up towards the end of the checkout process.  Click here for what Cladmen is.

This is starting to feel more like a going-out-of-business fire sale than anything else.  Maybe that’s not the case at all, but you just don’t see these kinds of names, with this level of drastic reductions, with this variety of sizes still available.  It doesn’t happen.  So it makes you wonder if something is up.

UPDATE:  Something is most certainly up.  Credit Jessy for the find.

Over 400 items have been added to their sale section.  They also keep throwing the word “final” around in their graphics.  But there’s no mention that these items can’t be returned.  Their return policy doesn’t say anything about non returnable final sale items either.  But who knows.  They do ding you a total of $10 for return shipping & a restocking fee, but at least shipping is free when you buy it.  Picks now.  Questions later…
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BOSS Black Wool Stripe Sport Coat – $148.43 ($495)

Sport coat addicts rejoice?

No chest pocket on this thing.  Interesting.  Also comes with “a split panel in the shoulders for mobility.”  That works too.  All wool, nice striped pattern, and looks like it’ll do just fine with trousers or jeans.  Sizes start at 40R, so, apologies to the fellows with the trimmer more slight builds.

Hush Puppies Burnished Chukka & Retrospect Lace Ups – $29.93 ($115)

To boot or not to boot. Your choice.

Under thirty….  All right then.  The Chukkas claim to have a hand stitched construction and a natural crepe outsole.  Hush Puppies aren’t Allen Edmonds by any stretch, but again… thirty bucks?

Bruno Magli Cap Toe Oxfords – $112.43 ($425)

Yes sirrrr.

To quote Friday… Damn.

Michael Kors Leather Racing Jacket – $237.68 ($795)

Lots of looks for the price.

Was pushing $800, now in the low two-hundreds.  Full grain leather, and nice work with those extra long zippers that have pulls at either end.  Real simple with the exception of those longer than normal zippers.

Bruno Magli Hiking Boots – $131.18 ($395)

Made in Italy of course.

There are two types of people in this world.  Those that won’t even consider a pair of boots unless they can survive weeks at a time tromping through the wilderness while supporting the legs of a human carrying a good amount of gear on his back… and then there are those who will salivate over these.  And actually get them dirty.

Joseph Abboud Wool Plaid Sport Coat – $148.43 ($495)

USA! USA!

You’ll pay about $150 for an on sale cotton sport coat from Banana Republic.  This one is all wool, made in the USA, and comes with a half canvas chest piece.  The plaid is a grey base with some blue and brown thrown in.  Still time to wear it before the weather turns warmer, and one of those things you might look forward to pulling out of the closet each October for years to come.

John Varvatos Star USA Tonal Plaid Slim Fit Dress Shirt – $26.93 ($90)

Depth without getting freaky.

Nice, nice work on the pattern here.  Sizes are a bit limited, but there’s some average ones in there.  For now.

BOSS Black Wool Striped Suit – $312.68 ($795)

Means business, and you won't have to cash out your 401k.

That’s a hell of a price for fully canvassed.  Wool looks like flannel, but it’s not flannel, so you shouldn’t be burning up in it once the temps get back above freezing.  Flat front trousers, the lapels don’t look razor thin nor do they look too big… a classic stripe with modern details.

BOSS Black Gingham Dress Shirt – $25.43 ($95)

Plenty of sizes available for now.

Looks like the collar might be a little too spread to wear without a tie, but with a pair of wurkin’ stiffs you might be able to muscle those points to where the lines will frame your face.  Regardless… twenty five bucks.

7 For All Mankind Standard Mercer – $45.68 ($174)

A luxury wardrobe basic for a basic price.

Italian denim, made in the USA, a button fly, and a classic straight leg “standard” fit.  Sounds a hell of a lot like 501s for less than a pair of 501s.

John Varvatos Star USA Dress Chukka – $74.93 ($295)

Seventy five bucks.

So there’s a few logos on there, but at least they’re subtle.  Real, real nice medallion on the toe.  Credit Josh in the comments for finding these.

The Extra 25% off sale items expires 2/29/2012, but don’t expect sizes and selection to last that long…

Players, coaches, and even part of the half time act have been cast in a sartorial light.  Will this help you figure out just who’s going to win this thing?  Maybe.  Okay, probably not.  But at least this way, if you don’t have a dog in this fight, you can root for your favorite shirt.  Or against a horrid accessory.  Let’s kick it off with the Golden Boy…
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Tom Brady:  Double Monk Straps – Antonio Maurizi Vincenzo Double Monk – $299.95

But does he own a pair?

Came out of seemingly nowhere a few years back and has been dominating ever since.  Maybe beginning to wind down.  Hugely popular yet absolutely hated by some.  Expensive.  Difficult to find affordable versions of.  (The cheaper version, of course, is the DSW house brand Mercantile Fiorentini.  Photo Credit: Keith Allison

Eli Manning: Levi’s Original 501 – $52.99

Not as complicated, but that's a strength.

The more expensive relative might get all the attention, but the quieter, cheaper option is a true foundation that quietly does what needs to be done and often excels at it.  Tougher than most.    Photo Credit: AJ Guel

The Giants “NASCAR” Front 4:  Navy Suit, Grey Suit, Charcoal Suit, Plaid/Check Suit

Osi, Tuck, JPP, & Mathias

Straight up mean looking.  Can dominate when execution is perfect.  Hard to ignore.  Suits from left:  Indochino Essential Navy, Banana Republic Tailored Fit, J.Crew Factory Thompson, Suit Supply Napoli 1/2.

The Patriots Defense: Tighty Whiteys – Fruit of the Loom 3 Pack – $8.06

Good enough to get this far.

Just kinda there.  Doesn’t cover much.  Also doesn’t get credit for getting the job done.  Photo Credit: deege

Ahmad Bradshaw & Brandon Jacobs: Tie Bar – $15.00 & Pocket Square – $30.00

Smaller, and much bigger.

Can make a huge impact.  Can also be a massive let down.  (Tie bar is from thetiebar.com  Pocket Square is from FifthandBrannan.com)  Photo Credit tedkerwin & Alexa

BenJarvus Green-Ellis:  Driving Gloves – All Gloves Brown Drivers – $84.00

No butterfingers here.

Exotic sounding.  Ridiculous grip.  No.  Seriously.  Holds on and won’t let go.  Photo Credit: Jeffrey Beal

Wes Welker: White Oxford Cloth Button Down – Lands’ End Canvas – $50.00

Ol' reliable

A favorite weapon.  Excels on the interior with other options surrounding.  Not real flashy.  Can take a solid beating.  White.  (The L.E.C. one is full price.  This or this option from Brooks Brothers are both a little funky, but cheaper and could be layered.)  Photo Credit: Brian J. McDermott

 

Victor Cruz:  Linen Suit – J. Crew Irish Linen Ludlow – $426.00

Impressive moves. Impressive suit.

At first, not high on the priority list for many.  But as soon as you experience it, you’re awfully glad to have it in your arsenal.  Excels when it comes to salsa dancing.  (Want a MUCH cheaper all cotton summer suit?  The L.L. Bean Signature New Traditional Twill is down to $125 total.  Review here.  Credit Alex K. for the tip.)  Victor Cruz Photo Credit

 

Rob Gronkowski:  Saddleback Leather Briefcase – $411.00

Gronk doesn't come with a 100yr warranty.

Not the most subtle thing in the world.  Can take a beating.  Viewed as unstoppable.  Can play a major role but can be replaced by something sleeker to mix it up.  Photo Credit: jdn

 

Vince Wilfork:  Saddleback Leather Duffel Bag – $744.00

Bit of a load.

Yup.  Photo Credit: Keith Allison

 

Chad Ochocinco: The Trucker Hat

15 catches this year. Total.

Loud.  Was everywhere.  Has since completely fallen off the face of the earth.  Photo Credit: Jeffrey Beal

 

Madonna:  Shutter Shades – $7.02

Halftime show = Bathroom break.

80s icon that… why the hell are we revisiting the 80s again?  Photo Credit: iShot71

 

Tom Coughlin:  A vintage pocket watch that runs five minutes fast

On time means you're late buster.

Old school.  A younger contemporary would struggle to seem natural.  Sometimes appears a little out of touch with the nuances of today, and continues to risk being thrown to the trash heap, but continues to survive and excel.

 

Bill Belichick:  A hooded sweatshirt – Gildan Heavy Blend Hoodie – $12.70

Ready for battle.

What.  Were you expecting a Tom Ford dinner jacket?  Belichick Photo Credit

Agreements, disagreements, additions, and predictions can all go in the comments below.  Top Photo Credit: hyku

Completely serviceable.

Shoe hogs will turn their nose up at these, but for those guys out there who can’t drop $200, or even $150 on a pair of non foundational shoes… know that I hear ya.  The suede isn’t real rich.  The color is a nice deep brown, but there’s not much depth on the suede.  They still look plenty good, and after a day of wear they’re comfortable.  And the buckle is a nice dull gold.  *Use the oddly long code 483308000505 to save five bucks.  You do have to be logged in as a DSW rewards member, which is nothing more than getting on their email list.  Code SHIPR gets you free shipping.
UPDATE:  Y’know, the Florsheim suedes are nice, but the deal(s) of the week has to be just about any and everything in the CLADmen.com sale over here.

Most Popular Post:  The Suggestion – Orange in small doses

Orange you glad we... I'll shut up now.

It’s the season for blah colors.  But anyone this side of Andy Dalton should be able to pull off this punch of color in their wardrobe.  It shouldn’t be an every day thing, but it can be done.

Most Discussed Post:  Las Vegas – The Yes/No Guide to Sin City

"You think he'll mind?" "More than somewhat."

Sure the slim cargos post got plenty of comments too, but in the Vegas piece you guys have once again provided a ton of great information by way of the comments.  If you got Las Vegas “right” on your first trip, more power to you.  But for the rest of us, it usually takes a second or third trip to finally figure it out.  One final yes/no:  Cabbies that drive erratically, claim to have once been part of an acrobat troupe that performed on Letterman, and tells cheezy jokes for the entire 10 minute ride down the strip – Yes.  Cabbies that are dead silent and look like Robin Williams in One Hour Photo – No.

If you’ve got a question that needs the female treatment, chances are you’re not the only one who wants to ask it. Beth is our source for the answers.  From opinions on men’s style to decoding the sometimes mysterious ways of women, she’ll take on a different question every Thursday.  And don’t worry, your identity will be protected too.  Click here to get to know Beth, then get in touch with her by sending your question to: askawoman@dappered.com

Beth,

I’ve been reading the articles on Dappered for several weeks now and I’ve even picked up a few ideas about things I may go out and look for.  But there’s one thing about my usual choice of clothing that defies a lot of the advice I’ve read.

I wear kilts.

Now, I’m perfectly willing to grant that kilts are a very unusual fashion choice, and it may be completely impossible, in your opinion, to look “dapper” while wearing one.  Be that as it may, I wear kilts, I like wearing kilts, and I am going to go on wearing kilts.

The advice I’m looking for here is not necessarily how to “dress up” a kilt. I can do that fairly well, I think.  In fact that’s one of the easiest things to do, because they have become fairly formal sorts of garments, at least when you’re talking about the traditional, Scottish kilt (eight years of wool tartan).  What I’m really looking more for are ideas about a casual, but nice, kilt look.  What kind of shirts do I wear?  What kind of footwear?  Socks?

I should note that most of the kilts I wear, on a daily basis, are Utilikilts.  I own six of them, wear them nearly every day for 75% of the year.  I’m pretty serious about my Utilikilts, but that doesn’t mean that I always want to dress in the “accepted” style (e.g. funky tops, combat boots, etc.).

So what kind of advice can you provide?

- Aaron

Dear Aaron,

I’ve been avoiding your email for months.  Every week, I see it peeking at me from my amassed collection, and I think, here’s a guy with the guts to wear what he likes, social sanctions be damned, and he needs my counsel, and I put him off time and time again.  I open your email, re-read your message, and then slowly back away from the computer screen.  Then I get up and eat a cookie, check Facebook, coo at my dog, watch my neighbor apply grease to his fence so the squirrels fall off it…and finally sit back down and pick a different email.  Here’s why: I have ZERO expertise in what you’re asking me about.  I don’t know anyone who ever wears kilts, so I hardly know where to start.  I didn’t even realize you could dress up or dress down kilts.  It’s a kilt for God’s sake!  The only thing I can really contribute here is that fact that I know about other types of men’s clothing, and you’re writing in for a woman’s opinion, and I am, in fact, a woman…so bear with me.

I’ll apply what I know about normal clothing to this scenario, and perhaps all the pieces will come together.  If they don’t, boo-hoo, I’ll never be employed by the kilt industry.  To dress down a kilt, I’d think you’d want to stay away from shirts that have a lot of bells and whistles–pockets, buttons, snaps, zippers, epaulets, etc.  So plain tees like this crew neck, and this v-neck would work.  A polo shirt would also fit the bill.  The kilts you link to see to have higher waists than the typical pair of men’s pants, so I’d definitely recommend tucking in the shirts so that it looks nice and neat.

During the colder months, again, pick simpler sweaters, like this cashmere-blend v-neck.  This sweater does have some of those details I advised staying away from, but somehow it looks very laid-back here.  For a little texture, try this cableknit sweater.  When wearing bulkier items like sweaters, don’t tuck in, of course–it will just add thickness to your mid-section.

Kilt worthy?  The Original Utilikilt, Custom-Fit Polo by RL, V-Neck by J. Crew, Cable Crew by Bonobos

Footwear.  Footwear with a kilt.  I’m going to reference Joe’s post, “2012 = The Year of the Loafer” for this one.  Laceless shoes, I bet, would look good with a kilt.  This would also be a sharp departure from the combat boots you referenced, which are all laces.  I especially like these two pairs.  You might also try Boat Shoes for an even more casual look (and minimal laces).  As for socks…that’s a challenge.  The photos I’ve looked through online of men wearing kilts and shoes (but not boots), show the shoes worn with a knee-high white sock.  So…there’s that…option.  May I suggest veering from tradition and trying a colored sock?  Perhaps in a dark, neutral tone like black, navy blue, or charcoal.  The other option, I suppose, is to wear no sock at all.  You’ll wind up with some seriously funky smelling shoes pretty quickly that way, though.  You could simply give the appearance of a bare foot by wearing no-show socks like the ones here or here.

Aaron, hope this helped.  You definitely gave me a run for my money.  Next week, I get back to the easy questions from the rest of you suckers.

-Beth

Got a question for Beth? Send them to: askawoman@dappered.com

Believe it or not, sizes are pretty much sold out on those two pairs up top.  Check your local brick and mortar GAP though.  They might have some hanging out on the clearance racks.

Man.  These things are like Rasputin.  They just… won’t… die.  They’re the boomerang of trousers.  And this time the cargo pant comet has come back around in a tapered, ultra slim form.

Which means those extra pockets have been rendered almost completely useless.  Hard to get any true “cargo” in there when they only have half an inch of travel between your thigh and the outside world.  But it’s not like we’re stuffing stuff in our lower blazer or sportcoat pockets.  Those are purely asthetic.

Maybe the key is to keep the pockets purely inside?  Maybe?  No ballooning, expanding patch/pleated pockets.  Keep em’ streamlined like the charcoal version up top and to the left.  Apologies to Sergent Friday, but perhaps the key to cargo pants is to see just the flaps… ma’am.

Or maybe they’re just a lost cause no matter what.  Would you wear them?  Leave your take below.

Dockers Slim Tapered Cargo – $70 | Converse – $80 | Guess – $32.79 w/code RED

Regular Prices: Suit – $379, Shirt – $99, Tie – $48  Credit to John T. for the style tip via twitter.

Looks like Indochino is getting back into the deal game.

Sort of.

This one is confusing.  The main text says this:

At first, you might think you can get a suit for 35% off.  That’d make one of their essential suits $246.  And that of course includes a $75 credit for retailoring costs.  So if you’ve had good luck with Indochino in the past (and yes, it’s more than clear that many have NOT had good luck with them) you’d be basically looking at a suit with high arm holes and minimal shoulder padding for $175 – $200 off the rack and before you get it tailored to your exact specs.

But that’s not the deal.  At all.  You have to buy the package that they’re selling.  Which is a suit, plus a shirt and tie.  Which many of us don’t have any desire for.  It’s more of a $40-off-a-suit-plus-free-shirt-and-tie deal than anything.

If you’ve got any experience with Indochino shirting, leave it below in the comments.  Because I’ve got none.  But for $100 a shirt, we’re talking made-in-the-USA Ratio Shirt prices.  So that seems a little high.  And while their ties sure look nice, the one they included in their suit accessories kit awhile back felt awfully flimsy.  But it’s worth looking at a combination before writing the deal off.  Here’s one potential example of what the deal could buy for $339:

The Suit:  Essential Gray Wool Suit (reg. $379)

Not charcoal

Most American men think they should own either a black or charcoal suit.  The style community favors navy.  If you don’t have a lighter gray yet, this lighter shade should be near the top of your list when it comes to making the next addition to your suit collection.

The Shirt: The Consultant Navy Blue Gingham (reg. $99)

If it's going to be custom, might as well get a pattern.

If they’re going to throw in a shirt, might as well make it a pattern that’s not the easiest to come across.  Sure there’s navy gingham shirts out there, but they’re not as ubiquitous as solid white dress shirts.  Go with the oddball here.

The Tie: Black Silk Knit  (reg. $39)

Solid, subtle, and has some texture.

Wearing a traditional shiny silk knit tie on top of the more casual gingham shirt might work, but the best play with a more casual shirt like this is to take the dressed up feel of your tie down a few notches.  That’s where a solid knit comes in.  All together it should make for a not too bad late in the week office or after work happy hour getup.

The Deal’s Grade: C

Ehhh.  It’s disappointing that they weren’t doing a 35% off one suit deal.  Maybe that’s just not possible with costs rising, but even a 20% off deal would be better than the extra shirt and tie for many of us.  It has this odd feel of the shirt and tie being throwaways.  Bait.  Premium floor mats with a new car.  And while the audience is split on whether or not they like Indochino’s suiting, the number of people who actively seek out their shirts and ties seems to be much lower than those who like their suits.  So no thanks on this end.  And you?  Leave your grade below.